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Archive-name: sports/skating/inline-faq/part12 See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge
_r.s.s.inline FAQ: Wheels, Bearings and Hop-up Kits_
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WHEELS, BEARINGS AND HOP-UP KITS
Table of Contents
* Inline Wheels
* The Bearing Maintenance File
* Hop Up Kits (axle upgrades)
_________________________________________________________________
Inline Wheels Files
(written May 17, 1992)
(last changed June 11, 1995)
_________________________________________________________________
Copyright notice
_________________________________________________________________
Technical Info
Most standard inline wheels are made mainly of polyurethane. Some
wheels are designed for sliding and use use a mix of different
durometers (like the RollerEdge wheels), or plastic rings (like the
BrakeWheel). Wheels are classified on diameter, hardness, rebound,
profile and core. Some are even classified by weight. However, most
often you will see only the diameter and hardness printed on the
wheels (e.g. 76mm 78A or 70mm 82A, etc.). The profile and core you can
tell by visual inspection.
Diameter
The diameter of the wheel means simply how tall the wheel is. The
usual diameters range from 43mm to 80mm. Most common sizes you'll come
across for recreational skating are 72 and 76mm. Skaters wanting speed
tend to use 80mm wheels, although 76mm's are used too, depending on
the skates and racing course and distance. Vert/ramp skaters use short
wheels with a high durometer to do rail slides. These range from 43 to
76mm, depending on the skating situation (vert, ramp, rails, etc.).
Generally, racing skates will fit up to 80mm wheels, high-end skates
up to 77mm (sometimes 80 now), and the rest of the models up to 72mm.
Although these are the designated max-sizes, skates can often take
slightly taller wheels than the official specifications. For instance,
in the old Bauer XF/3's, with the front and heel wheel spacers moved
in (for a shortened wheelbase), can use 76mm wheels for all four
positions. Extension modification (i.e., scraping down) of skates are
need for wheels much larger than the intended size.
In general, taller wheels will let you cruise faster but take longer
to spin up. Taller wheels also tend to be less manueverable than
shorter wheels. Shorter wheels are cheaper, but in general don't last
as long since they have less material to wear down overall, given the
same durometer. However since many of the small wheels are for stunts,
they all tend to be sold in higher durometers anyway (they slide
better), so they won't necessarily wear out that quickly.
70mm 72mm 76mm 80mm
Average speed____________________________________________Fast
Quick Turns______________________________________Slower Turns
Durometer (hardness)
Durometer is a relative hardness measure frequently used for rubber
and plastic products. There are several scales, with the "A" scale
(hence the 78A, etc.) used for wheels. The number is the rating from
0-100, with 0 being no resistance and 100 being very hard plastic.
Note: there is a Rockwell scale which is used for steel. Only one
wheel uses it now, Pebbles by Kryptonics, with a rating of 50R
Recreational wheels generally run from 74A to 82A. For outdoors, the
softer the wheel, the better the shock absorption. The trade-off is
that softer wheels wear out faster. Harder wheels, since they have
less drag, are preferred on indoor surfaces which are usually very
smooth (e.g. hockey).
Some skaters vary their wheel durometer depending on the temperature
outside. Cold weather will mean the ground is harder so soft wheels
are more suitable. In really warm weather the road might start
literally melting, in which case a high durometer setup would be more
preferrable.
74A 78A 82A 85A
Average Wear_________________________________Longest Wear
High Grip____________________________________Average Grip
High Rebound______________________________Average Rebound
Low Body Weight__________________________High Body Weight
Smooth Ride_____________________________________Hard Ride
Rebound
A higher rebound will provide more response on each stroke. The only
reference to a rebound scale in the inline industry now is the Bashore
Rebound, used by Roller Edge. Otherwise, rebound is referred to as
low, medium or high. The rebound labeling seems to have been phased
out as not many people seem to compare wheels based on this feature.
Profile
The profile of a wheel is defined by the cross-section of the wheel
where it meets the ground. All wheels are 24mm thick as an industry
standard, but the variation in a wheel's "footprint" is what provides
different functionality. The larger the footprint, the greater the
traction and stability. Many made-for-hockey wheels tend to have a
wide footprint for those sharp turns. Racing wheels on the other hand,
tend to be more tapered near the edges. More recently, FR Progressors
has developed an asymmetrically-profiled wheel, to help align on curbs
or rails.
Wide/fat Normal profile Narrow (race)
Best Cornering___________________________________Less Stable
Slow____________________________________________________Fast
Hubs/Cores
The hubs or cores (either term is okay) are very important to the
overall performance of the wheel. The core is everything other than
the wheel material. The core holds the bearings and connects to the
wheel material. Some wheels are open core (spokes showing), closed
core (spokes covered), or no cores (real small wheels don't really
need cores.) If the bearing core is slightly too large (as it often is
for shoddy wheels), it will not hold the bearings tightly enough. This
can allow the wheel to become "cocked" so that it rubs against the
frame. Only one wheel needs to be out of alignment to mess things up.
Misalignment is a serious problem, not only because it causes drag,
but because it heats up the wheel. This will soon cause it to seperate
from the hub and expand, and eventually destroy the wheel.
The first sign is that the wheels creak as you switch your weight on
the skate. If you remove the wheel from the frame, you can see an arc
clear of dirt and dust where the wheel was rubbing. If you notice
this, put your hands on your wheels after a long fast skate and see if
any of them are much warmer than the others. If so, they are probably
rubbing.
This can happen a lot easier on frames like the Mogema and the
Darkstar that have very close tolerences and the side of the frame is
close to the side of the wheel. I'm not sure if is as big as a problem
(or a problem at all) for recreational skates like the Aeroblade. The
creaking is bothersome in any event.
Closed Core Tri Spoke Core Racing Core
High Wheel Weight_________________________________Low Wheel Weight
Longest Wear__________________________________________Average Wear
Axle Kits
Another important aspect of your wheels is the axles. There are
several axle replacement/upgrade kits (such as the Hyper Hop-up Kit
and the Blading Edge Kit) designed to let your wheels roll much faster
than your stock axles will allow. These kits are usually made of
aluminium or steel. What they consist of is two axle bolts per wheel,
each screwing into the threaded spacer in the wheel (the part that is
sandwiched between the bearings). This prevents overtightening, which
is common with regular axle systems, and will allow your
wheels/bearings to spin freely. When putting your wheels back, make
sure the wheels are just snug enough so they don't move around.
Anything more just increases the friction on your bearings.
Maintenance
Wheels of any durometer will wear out, given enough mileage. There's
only so much polyurethane on your wheels, while there's thousands of
miles of asphalt out there. Much less wearage occurs for indoor
skating, however.
In general, your wheels are due for maintenance when your skates are
much slower and not rolling as smoothly as when new. The inside edges
will wear more quickly, which you will eventually notice:
For those of you without the benefit of a graphics-ready computer:
| | | |
inside | | outside inside \ | outside
edge | | edge edge \ | edge
\____/ \__/
new wheel worn wheel
There are two things you can do to get the most from your wheels:
rotate and flip. Rotating your wheels means to switch the positions of
the wheels. Different positions (like the heel or toe wheels) receive
varying amounts of wear. By rotating the wheels, you can even out the
wear on each wheel.
Flipping your wheels means to turn each wheel so that the worn edge
now faces the outside. This lets you wear down the other edge of the
wheels.
There are several patterns for wheel rotation. The one you use isn't
crucial, since there's no "magic" rotation formula that works for all
situations. The main point is to maintain an even wear on your wheels.
Often times you may find yourself swapping wheels at random until you
get a good wearage distribution on your skates.
Some common rotation patterns:
The front wheel is "1" and the back wheel is either "4" or "5".
For 3-wheel skates: 3->2, 2->1, 1->3
For 4-wheel skates: 42, 31 OR 4->3 3->2 2->1 1->4
For 5-wheel skates: 5->3, 4->2, 3->1, 2->5, 1->4
OR 5->3, 4->5, 3->2, 2->4
Whiled you're rotating and flipping your wheels, you might as well
wipe off your skates, rails, wheels and bearings with a damp cloth.
Some people wipe down their skates everytime they go out, even if they
don't do any rotation, but I recommend you do it at least everytime
you rotate your wheels. This keeps the amount of dirt on your skates
and wheels to a minimum, which helps keeps grit out of your bearings.
Rockering Your Skates
Having skates non-rockered means the axles and wheels are all at the
same height. This is the way the skates come when you buy then
(usually). What many skates allow you to do is to change the height of
some or all of the axles, to provide a different "blade" to skate on.
Rockered skates then, have the middle two wheels lower relative to the
front and heel wheels. This is accomplished by having oval spacers
with an offset axle-hole; each spacer can have an up or down position.
Racing skates are also adjustable, but only in the horizontal
direction, allowing for a longer or shorter wheelbase.
Although subject to some disagreement, many skaters find rockering
provides much more maneuverability due to the curved "blade" of the
wheels. Whether you rocker or not is really up to you. Many hockey
players prefer to have their skates rockered for sharper turns on the
court, while racers keep their blades flat for more stability at high
speeds (rockers at high speed will produce speed wobble). Artisitic
skaters may also prefer rockered, while extreme skaters may opt to
keep them flat.
Depending on your skates, there are various rockering configurations
possible. If your skates can adjust the height of only the middle two
wheels, you can have your skates flat or rockered:
Flat : ==frame==
1 2 3 4
Rockered: ==frame==
1 4
2 3
If your skates can adjust the height of all four wheels then you have
the positions of
short even rocker: ==frame== (wheels closer to boot, for more
control)
1 4
2 3
tall even rocker: ==frame== (taller, for sharper turns)
1 4
2 3
front-lift rocker: ==frame== (a little more stable than regular
rocker)
1
2 3 4
front-lift, : ==frame== (tilts skates forward)
rear-down, rocker 1
2 3
4
Wheels run from $3.00 to $10.00, depending on the 5 criteria referred
to at the beginning of this section. There are many inline wheel
manufacturers out there: Hyper, Kryptonics, FR Progressors, Senate,
Labeda, UFO, Cyko, Cozmo, Grizzly Gear, Kuzak, RollerEdge,
BrakerWheel, Ultimate, Bullzeye, Chaos, Core, Heavy, Kopp, Square,
Sims and probably several others.
_________________________________________________________________
The Bearing Maintenance File
(written May 2, 1992)
(last changed Jan 6, 1995)
_________________________________________________________________
Copyright notice
_________________________________________________________________
Contents:
* General Info
* Sealed or Shielded?
* Bearing ratings
* How to maintain your bearings
+ 1st method : If you don't mind taking off the seals.
+ 2nd method : If you don't want to pry off the seals.
General Info
Inline skates all use 608 bearings. The "608" means that the bearings
are from the 600 series, with a 8mm inner diameter (the width of the
hole, i.e., internal bore). The "6" appears to be for the 6mm
difference between the inner and outer radii (from the outside edge to
the edge of the hole).
608 bearings are also the standard size for skateboard bearings. Quad
skates use either type 608 (8mm internal bore) or type 627 (7mm
internal bore). The 608's for quads are the outdoor bearings. If your
bearings have letters following the "608" (like "S", "Z", or even "ZZ"
or "SS") it is the manufacturer's way of denoting sealed or perhaps
double shielded bearings. An "RS" label means shielded but that the
shields are removeable (i.e., serviceable bearings). To make sure what
they mean you should probably check with the manufacturer, since it
can vary from company to company.
A little cross-reference on part numbers for bearings, the 7MM ones
are for quality indoor skates, the 8MM ones are used for in-lines,
other indoor skates and skateboards.
Double Shielded:
NTN Fafnir MRC ND SKF HCH YW
7MM 627-ZZ 37KDD 37FF 77037 R7-2Z 627Z 60027
8MM 608-ZZ 38KDD 38FF 77038 R8-2Z
Double Sealed (neoprene rubber):
NTN Fafnir MRC ND SKF
7MM 627-LL 37PP 37ZZ 99037 R7-2RS
8MM 608-LL 38PP 38ZZ 99038 R8-2RS
Single shielded/sealed bearings usually delete one of the doubled
prefix/suffix characters. (Thanks go to George for the above chart).
Bearings for recreational use generally come grease filled. Some
bearings like GMNs are sold either greased or oiled (but usually
greased).
Some of the bearing manufacturers are: Black Hole, Boca, Boss, Cyko,
DF, Fafnir, FKD, Get Your Bearings, GMBH, GMN, Grizzly, Hyper,
Kryptonics (Russian), M&A Smith Stealth, NHBB, NMB, Powell Swiss
"Bones", RPM, Sonic, Terminator, Twincam and Yak. (The NMB's are
common as a stock ABEC-1 bearing in production skates, but they also
make ABEC-5's). There are many brands of bearings out on the market
now, although you should know that some are just bearings from the
same factory, just labeled differently. Some brands are NMB, Powell
Swiss (commonly called Bones bearings), GMN, Fafnirs, Black-Hole,
YAKs, Twin-cam, M&A Smith Stealth, (Super) Sonic, Terminator, Hyper
(Boss & RPM), FKD, NHBB, GMBH, DF, Grizzly.
Sealed or Shielded?
There are basically two types of bearings: shielded vs sealed. Very
likely you will have shielded bearings, which all stock skates come
with (as far as I know). Shields make it hard for dirt and grime to
get in, but they certainly aren't dust or watertight. For superior
protection against the elemnts, you need sealed bearings.
There are three kinds of shielded bearings: 1) two shields (metal), 2)
one metal shield & one pop-out cap for maintanence, 3) two pop-out
caps. If you have types 2 or 3, you'll have an easier time re-lubing
your bearings (see below)
Sealed bearings have a teflon or rubber lip seal that actually touches
the race and come packed with a fairly heavy grease. These are quite
impervious to dust or water. Rollerblade sells sealed bearings under
the name Max Trainers. You may find other brands as well. The
advantage is that they should last a long time without any maintenance
at all. The trade-off is that these bearings generally cost more and
you also encounter a much higher rolling resistance. Slower bearings
are not necessarily bad, since many people like the added resistance
for a better workout.
Bearing Ratings
Bearings are rated on the ABEC ("Annular Bearing Engineering Council",
_annular_ means circular) scale. The higher the ABEC number, the
greater the manufactured bearing precision. There are no required
materials to meet the ABEC specifications. The bearings simply have to
be made to a certain precision.
You may find cheaper skates with bearings not even rated on the ABEC
scale (primarily on "toy" in-lines and real low-end/kids skates).
These will often be labeled as semi-precision bearings.
In non-skating applications (like in industrial machinery) using
higher ABEC-rated bearings lets machines meet particular mechanical
tolerance or vibration levels, so they can operate at a high speed.
This is not because there is less rolling resistance, but rather
because the precision is better.
Whether ABEC-5 bearings will let you skate faster than ABEC-1 bearings
is still largely debatable. The higher precision may not make a
significant difference when you're at 10-20mph. Compare that with
typical machinery that may run at 10,000 rpm (~80 mph), where the
smallest change in precision can make a difference. Also, the higher
precision will eventually deteriorate down to ABEC-3 or 1 due to dust,
dirt and regular wear and tear. Cutting down wind-resistance and
improving your technique is probably much more effective at increasing
your skating speed.
However, all this is not to say that there is no reason to buy ABEC-3
or ABEC-5 bearings. Most ABEC-3 and 5 rated bearings are serviceable,
while ABEC-1's typically are not. So although you may not be buying
more speed, you will be getting more convenience in maintanence.
When to Clean and Re-lubricate Your Bearings
Exposure to dirt and water are the main reason that your bearings slow
down. Bad bearings will be ones which don't let your wheels spin for a
respectable amount of time (the definition of "respectable" depends on
on your type of bearings). If you hear or feel the vibrations of metal
rubbing on metal, chances are your bearings are in need of some
maintenance.
If some of the balls or bearing surfaces have become roughened,
there's basically nothing you can do. They won't get any better, but
they may last a long time anyway. You can always replace your bearings
a few at a time.
Take care of your bearings by cleaning and preping them as needed.
Assuming normal usage, they should last through several sets of
wheels, depending on how much skating you do.
Replacing Your Bearings
You probably want to replace some of your bearings if (1) any of them
them have somehow stopped spinning well, despite all the cleaning you
do or (2) you want to change to different types of bearings (racing or
sealed or whatever).
How to Take Care of Your Bearings
1st Method: Taking the shields off
1. Remove your wheels from the skates, and push the bearings out with
a spare bushing (the plastic/metal part that goes between the
bearings) or one of the several types of bearing tools available
on the market.
2. Now there's three types of situations you'll be in: a) If you have
shielded bearings with pop-out caps (Powell Swiss or Black Hole
brands), simply pry/pop out the plastic cap on each bearing.
b) If you have other serviceable bearings like Twin-cams or YAKs
you need to pop out the snap rings (C-rings) before you take off
the shields (use a small screwdriver to snap out the snap rings).
Shown below are a close-up of the C-ring and shield when you take
them out. Notice that the C-ring has a diagonal edge at either
end. There's really only one end that you can pry the ring out
with (i.e., the end with the pointed edge towards the inside). In
the picture, it would be the end at the top of the image. (Click
on either image to see an enlarged version).
c-ring image shield image
c) For non-serviceable bearings like NMBs, GMNs (Germans), or
sealed bearings, _FIRST_ make this decision: do you want to take
the shields off?
Some people tell you to never pry off a shield/seal, some say it's
okay. It's really up to you. In general, if you think you will be
doing a lot of maintainence on your bearings, you are much better
off taking the shields off. Whatever you do, the new lubrication
always helps.
NOTE: if you have sealed bearings you might not want to pop the
covers since you could ruin the seal integrity a little, which is
what you're paying extra for in the first place. Still, I have some
people say they put their bearings back together with no harm, so it
is possible. For more nitty-gritty on maintaining sealed bearings,
look at http://www.svi.org/~nates/bearing.html.
If you decide _no_ then skip down to the section marked 2nd
Method.
If you decide _yes_ then carefully puncture or pry off the shield
(or seal) on one side. Use a very small screwdriver, and pry along
the edge of the shield until you can get under it and pop it off.
If this is difficult, you can always push the screwdriver into the
shield (or tap it through (lightly!) with a hammer or heavier
tool). You don't need a whole lot of force since the shields
aren't all that thick or hard.
When removing the covers of entire sets of bearings at once, be
careful to only take off one cover per bearing. Otherwise you'll
be left with a shieldless/sealless bearing (which won't last long
against outdoor conditions).
Once you have the cover off, you should be able to see the ball
bearings inside, held in place by a retainer (click on the image
for a close-up).
[LINK]
You won't need the old metal covers anymore so you can throw them
away (assuming you're using non-serviceable bearings). They're no
good anymore anyway since they're probably bent and warped from
the removal.
In Bones bearings the cap is ALSO the brace, so you won't see a
brace, but just 7 bearings rolling around. Bones users should
obviously keep the plastic cap when reassembling their bearings.
NOTE: You don't want to take the ball bearings out since they
aren't meant to be removed and replaced. Besides, you'll scuff the
bearings and they won't roll well anymore.
3. Soak the bearings (c-rings and shields too if you've got
serviceable bearings) in Simple Green or some other biodegradeable
detergent. DON'T dilute with water! Use it straight from the
bottle. The detergents are very cheap and you don't need a whole
lot anyway (just enough to cover the bearings). If you want to
speed things up a little, put your cleaning container in a larger
container. Fill the area around the cleaning container with warm
or hot water but not enough to spill over into the cleaning
container.
The choice of cleaner/solvent isn't crucial so long as you can get
all the dirt and old grease cleaned out. However, I'd highly
suggest using one of the biodegradeable cleaners. They're cheaper,
safer, easy to dispose of (just let it go down the sink) and good
for other cleanup tasks as well.
If you do insist on using solvents, avoid low-flash point solvents
like gasoline, xylene, lacquer thinner, etc. which are dangerously
flammable. Also wear latex/chem lab gloves if possible when
handling these chemicals. Solvents are no fun to ingest or absorb
through your skin. An alternative is to use a pair of tongs or
tweezers to handle your bearings.
_Soaking the bearings_
How long you soak depends on how dirty and dried out your bearings
have gotten. Previously maintained bearings won't need to soak
very long. Bearings that have gone dry and have lots of grit in
them may need to soak overnight, or even several days.
If necessary use a brush or swirl your bearings around in your
container to make sure everything breaks loose. Small coffee cans,
peanut jars, or even those little black film canisters, all make
decent containers. Dave Woodall (woodall@adrs1.dseg.ti.com) has
his own way of swirling. He uses a battery operated drink mixer
and spins his bearings to cleanliness. He says it works really
fast, so if you like, try it out 8-)
You don't really need large amounts of cleaner or solvent. Just
enough to immerse your bearings. You also don't need to refill
with clean solvent with each bearing unless the solvent you were
using has gotten really dirty. The essential thing is that the
dirt and grease is broken up. Step 4 will remove most of the gunk.
WD-40 is generally not recommended as a cleaner since it leaves a
sticky, dust attracting film on the bearings. Note, however, that
some people swear by WD-40. It has become somewhat of a
heavily-debated topic, so experiment with it if you'd like.
Ultrasonic cleaners are ideal for cleaning bearings. If you have
access to one, you can clean your bearings en mass and avoid
getting your hands dirty.
4. Now rinse out your bearings with hot, soapy water to make sure you
clear out all the solvent. You now have some clean bearings. If
they're truly clean they ought to spin real fast.
5. Use a hair dryer to make sure that all traces of water are gone.
6. Now lubricate with your favorite lubricant. Lubricant choice
always seem to be somewhat preferential. Lots of people find one
lube that works for them and they just stick with it. It's hard to
try out multiple lubricants and get a thoroughly accurate
comparison throughout all types of skating conditions. 1) people
don't always have the extra money to do so, 2) to change lubes you
need to clean and relube (unless you have an extra set of
bearings) and 3) there's still no real good way to measure how
well a lube helps speed up or slow down your skating. A no-load
"finger-flick" spin test doesn't really cut it since it doesn't
entirely translate into the equivalent rolling resistance with
your weight on it.
Ideally, you'd have an indoor incline and/or flat surface,
multiple sets of identical bearings for each lube, and you'd see
which one gave you the most glide. Of course, this still doesn't
take into account how fast the lube dries or bleeds from the
bearings, or how easily it collects or repels dust/grime/water,
and on and on.
In the end, it doesn't make a huge difference unless you're into
serious racing. Your main choice will be choosing between oil,
cream/grease, telfon based lubes, (bicycle) wax/paraffin, and
whatever else is out there. Most people end up using grease or
oil. Oiled bearings have slightly less resistance, but need to be
maintained more often (as often as once a week). It is very
helpful to have a little hypodermic style oiler with a long needle
to let you put the oil right where you want it.
Grease works well because after a while most of it gets shoved out
of contact with the balls and only a little bit smears onto the
workings. However, newly greased bearings, will take a while to
expel any extra grease and move the rest out of the way.
For oils, although you can use stuff like sewing machine oil, or
5W-20 motor oil, household oils (3-in-one, etc) may gum up after a
while. In any case, most mail-order shops sell their own brand of
lubricant, as do many of the bearing manufacturers (e.g., Bones
and BlackHole). Although it's not proven these "special" formulas
are all that better, it's usually only a few bucks for a nice
little bottle of lube that should last you for a long time. Some
brands also come in a very handy hypodermic-style dispenser which
is perfect for putting a drop exactly where you want it.
NOTE: Use only a few drops of oil per bearing! Overlubing will not
only waste your lube, but you'll also make the bearings more
sticky and more prone to attracting dust and grime, which is
exactly what you don't want. Spin the bearing to spread the oil
around inside.
Let the bearings sit for an hour, and wipe them off.
7. Put one bearing back into the wheel, with the open face towards
the inside of the wheel. Insert the bushing and then put on the
second bearing (with the open face towards the inside again). It
is pretty hard for contaminants to get into the bearings from the
inside.
2nd Method: Keeping the shields on
First do Step 1 (from 1st Method).
If your bearings are permanently sealed (or you don't want to remove
the seals) you can still soak in solvent (see step 3) for several
hours or as long as you feel necessary. Enough solvent should soak
through to remove some of the grease.
Then you can lubricate the seams and/or press some in with your
fingers. Enough oil should seep through to lubricate your bearings
(see step 6).
_-Tony Chen (adchen@garnet.acns.fsu.edu)_
_________________________________________________________________
Hop-up Kits
Hop-up kits are simply upgrade kits that include frame spacers,
bearing spacers, and axels. They're made of aluminium or brass or some
other metal. Some incorporate threaded spacers too. The advantage in
using hop-up kits is that you can crank down real hard on your bolts
without compressing the spacers. The stock plastic spacers on most
skates will compress or even crack if you do this a lot. (more to come
in this section)
If you want, look at the hop-up kit reviews in section 3.4.
_________________________________________________________________
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The image may not be sold for profit, nor incorporated in commercial
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copyright holder.
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User Contributions:Part1 - Part2 - Part3 - Part4 - Part5 - Part6 - Part7 - Part8 - Part9 - Part10 - Part11 - Part12 - Part13 - Part14 - Part15 - Part16 - Part17 - Part18 - Part19 - Part20 [ Usenet FAQs | Web FAQs | Documents | RFC Index ] Send corrections/additions to the FAQ Maintainer: adchen@garnet.acns.fsu.edu (Tony Chen)
Last Update March 27 2014 @ 02:12 PM
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