Archive-name: bodyart/piercing-faq/jewelry/partA
Last-modified: May 01, 2000 Posting-frequency: Quarterly URL: http://www.cs.uu.nl/wais/html/na-dir/bodyart/piercing-faq/.html See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge Summary: This posting contains information about body piercing. Anyone interested in the subject and/or who wishes to read/post to rec.arts.bodyart should read the Piercing FAQ first. The rec.arts.bodyart Piercing FAQ is divided into 30 parts: 1--Introduction 2A--Jewelry Materials 2B--Jewelry Sizes & Designs 2C--Facial Piercings & Their Suggested Jewelry 2D--Body Piercings & Their Suggested Jewelry 2E--Genital Piercings & Their Suggested Jewelry 3--Getting A New Piercing 4A--Professional Organizations, Piercing Instruction 4B--Professional Piercers - United States - Alabama - California 4C--Professional Piercers - United States - Colorado - Iowa 4D--Professional Piercers - United States - Kansas - Nevada 4E--Professional Piercers - United States - New Hampshire - North Dakota 4F--Professional Piercers - United States - Ohio - Pennsylvania 4G--Professional Piercers - United States - Rhode Island - Wyoming 4H--Professional Piercers - Canada 4I--Professional Piercers - Beyond N. America 4J--Professional Piercers - Beyond N. America Cont'd 5--Care Of New Piercings 6--The Healing Process & Healing Problems 7--Healed Piercings 8--Historical Information 9A--Resource List 9B--Resource List Cont'd 10A--Personal Experiences - Facial & Unisex Piercings 10B--Personal Experiences - Genital Piercings 10C--Personal Experiences - Genital Piercings Cont'd 10D--Personal Experiences - Genital Piercings Cont'd 11A--Jewelry Manufacturers 11B--Jewelry Manufacturers Cont'd 11C--Jewelry Manufacturers Cont'd This section includes: 2A Jewelry Materials 2A.1 Metals 2A.1a Report on Stainless Steel by Sean Christian 2A.2 Non Metal Materials 2A.2a Report on FDA Approved Acrylic by Michael Hare 2A.3 Organic Materials 2A.3a Hardwoods 2A.3b Bamboo 2A.3c Ivory, Horn, Antler All texts written and (c) 2000 by Anne Greenblatt unless otherwise noted. Please see Part 1 of the FAQ for information regarding copyright and dissemination of the FAQ. DISCLAIMER! The Piercing FAQ contains material of a sexually explicit nature. The information contained in the Piercing FAQ should not be construed as medical advice. 2A JEWELRY MATERIALS 2A.1 METALS The metals used for body jewelry are chosen for their bio-compatibility, or "body friendly" quality. However, some metals are more bio-compatible than others due to their specific compositions, or alloys. Please refer to Part 6, section 6.5, for more information about metal sensitivities. Piercing jewelry manufacturing is unregulated in the United States and largely unregulated in the rest of the world. Reputable manufacturers will disclose material specification certificates for the metals they use. Please see section 2A.1a for an article about material specification and ASTM and ISO standards. Gold 1 karat = 1/24th of the alloy is pure gold Only solid gold of at least 14 karat (58.3% gold) is appropriate for body jewelry. Some piercers prefer to use only 18k gold (75% gold) in fresh piercings. Gold-filled and gold-plated or jewelry is not appropriate. Gold plating is very thin and can wear away quickly with the friction to which body jewelry is exposed. Bending the jewelry after it is plated will cause the plating to fracture and chip. Some people are sensitive to the metals present in karat gold, namely nickel, silver, zinc and copper. White gold often causes more adverse reactions than yellow gold because a high amount of nickel is used to yield the white color. Many body jewelry manufacturers now use nickel-free gold alloys. White gold alloyed with palladium, an inert metal of the platinum group, instead of nickel is less likely to cause a metal sensitivity. Some people who cannot wear steel alloys can wear 18k white gold palladium alloys. Green or pink gold should not be worn because of the higher concentration of copper and zinc used to produce the color. Some people's perspiration is acidic enough to corrode the non-gold alloys in karat gold, evident by blackening of the jewelry and discoloration of the surrounding skin. Over a long period of time gold jewelry exposed to urine may acquire a rough, dull surface. The acids found in urine leach into the surface and dries to form a hard crust. Buffing or polishing the jewelry will remove this build-up. Daily cleaning of the jewelry will prevent this build-up. Gold jewelry will often become discolored when exposed to povidone iodine. Gold jewelry may become discolored when steam autoclaved; the indicators on sterilization packaging and tape appear to cause discoloration. Discolored jewelry can easily be repolished with a soft buffing cloth. Jewelry that has undergone surface depletion, or pickling, will be less likely to discolor. Pickling is a process of heating the jewelry or submersing it in a weak acid which removes oxidation of non-gold alloys from the surface of the metal. Niobium Niobium is an elemental metal and is strong yet flexible and is slightly heavier than 316L stainless steel. Niobium is chemically non-reactive. Few people are sensitive to niobium. Niobium jewelry is available in a range of colors which are produced through anodizing, not dyeing. During anodizing, the jewelry is submerged in an electrolyte solution and voltage is applied. Anodizing creates an oxide layer on the jewelry. The color results from refraction of light through the oxide layer, and the thickness of the layer determines the resulting color. The voltage applied during anodizing determines the thickness of the oxide. The anodized oxide eventually wears away, causing the color to fade or change; how long the process will take depends on the thickness of the oxide layer is and the amount of friction and wear on the jewelry. Black niobium is achieved by heating the niobium until it is red-hot and cooling it. After blackening, the jewelry can be polished. Black niobium will not fade. Niobium jewelry is available in matte ("satin") or high-polish ("mirror") finishes. Niobium is very porous making it difficult to achieve a high polish. Poorly polished niobium can retain polishing compound residue which is often toxic. Matte finish niobium should not be used for new or healing piercings because the pores can trap bacteria and the rough surface will to adhere to the interior of the piercing, causing it to tear when the jewelry is moved. Platinum Platinum and metals in the platinum group such as palladium are completely inert, making them excellent choices for body jewelry. However, platinum is economically impractical for most manufacturers and consumers. Platinum is also very heavy which makes platinum jewelry inappropriate for some piercings. Stainless Steel Of the many stainless steels available, only 316L and 316LVM are appropriate for use as body jewelry. 316L is a low-carbon variety of 316. 316LVM is 316L that has been vacuum melted; the vacuum prevents any air or airborne contaminants to attach to the molecules in the metal, resulting in a more consistent steel. For most people, however, that the steel be 316LVM is not a necessity to heal and maintain a healthy piercing. 316L / 316LVM stainless steel is comprised of several metals including nickel, to which some people are sensitive. However, the specific composition of 316L / 316LVM allows for very little exposure to the nickel molecules, thus reducing the risk of sensitivity. The jewelry should be polished to a reflective shine (mirror finish), free from rough edges, tool marks, and wire-drawing lines and pitting which are present in the surface of the steel when it arrives from the mill. When polished, true 316L is a white, not grey, metal. Under-polishing will be most evident along the inside of the ring where polishing is most difficult. 316L arrives from the steel manufacturer at specified degrees of hardness. Most jewelry manufacturers use the least-hard (1/4 hard) steel available for rings. Working the steel and forming the steel into rings hardens it to some degree. Annealing, a controlled heating and cooling process performed in a vacuum, yields a more flexible steel, resistant to metal fatigue. Most piercers and jewelry manufacturers agree that steel rings should be annealed to some degree or made from annealed wire because an annealed ring is easier to safely and quickly manipulate for insertion; pliers are often unnecessary for manipulating thinner gauge rings. However, the softer (more annealed) the ring, the easier it is scratched by tools or simply by daily wear. The trade-off of using non-annealed rings is that harder rings require tools to manipulate, increasing the chance of scratching the jewelry during insertion. Very hard rings cannot be torqued open at all; bending can cause the ring to break or create fractures invisible to the unaided eye which can trap bacteria. 316L is classified as an austenitic steel. Austenitic steels are generally non magenetic when annealed, although some may become slightly magnetic by cold working (bending and shaping). Silver / Sterling Silver Sterling silver is 92.5% silver alloyed with copper or some other metal. Sterling silver jewelry is usually marked "925." While silver and sterling silver jewelry can often be safely worn in healed piercings, neither should be worn in a new or unhealed piercing or in a piercing that is located in a moist area of the body such as the mouth or genitals. Silver tarnishes quickly. When worn in a new piercing, the tarnish can be deposited into the skin causing it to darken or turn grey, often permanently. Silver is very soft and is easily scratched. Scratches in the jewelry surface can easily irritate even a healed piercing and trap bacteria, encouraging infection. Titanium Titanium is an extremely lightweight, elemental metal. The specific alloy used for body jewelry is 6AL4V (60 parts aluminum, 40 parts vanadium), specifically 136 grade with extra low interstitial elements. (4) "Titanium is the most bio-compatible of all metals due to its total resistance to attack by body fluids." (1) Titanium is often used in permanent surgical implants where the tissue is encouraged to assimilate the implant; the pores in the metal allow for the tissue to attach. When titanium is used for body jewelry it should be highly polished to minimize porosity. When exposed to air or water, titanium immediately reacts with oxygen to create a thin, inert oxide layer. While the titanium alloy contains aluminum and vanadium, the oxide layer does not contain any traces of either element. (4) Titanium jewelry is available in a range of colors which are produced through anodizing, not dyeing. During anodizing, the jewelry is submerged in an electrolyte solution and voltage is applied. Anodizing creates an oxide layer on the jewelry. The color results from refraction of light through the oxide layer, and the thickness of the layer determines the resulting color. The voltage applied during anodizing determines the thickness of the oxide. The anodized oxide eventually wears away, causing the color to fade or change; how long the process will take depends on the thickness of the oxide layer is and the amount of friction and wear on the jewelry. Unanodized titanium is light to medium grey in color. Black-colored titanium is produced by coating titanium with titanium carbide through a process called Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD). Titanium carbide is not biocompatible and does not meet the specifications established for "implant grade" materials set forth by the ASTM and ISO. In addition, the coating will not have the smooth a finish necessary for body jewelry. References: (1) Internation Titanium Association, http://www.titanium.net (2) Reactive Metals Studio Inc., http://www.callamer.com/~ezecho/rms/rms.html (3) TI Specialties, http://www.callamer.com/~ezecho/tispec.html (4) Gilliam, Brian; Anatometal, Inc. http://www.anatometal.com Report presented at the Association of Professional Piercings Open Meeting, May 1998 2A.1a Report on Stainless Steel by Sean Christian Anatometal Inc. Body Jewelry, Santa Cruz, California http://www.anatometal.com Presented at the Association of Professional Piercers Open Meeting May 1998 Edited by Anne Greenblatt Terminology Surgical Stainless Steel: The term "surgical stainless steel" is not a technical term. It is a term that was originally coined by knife and cookware manufactures. It brought more marketable value to the material that they used. "Surgical stainless steel" is a generic term for a variety of different grades of steel and is not commonly found in any medical or metallurgical reports. There are no standards set for this type of metal. Implant Grade Stainless Steel: "Implant grade stainless steel" is a more accurate term for the steel used in body jewelry. There are standards set for what materials can be called implant grade. There are currently only two different types of stainless steel that commonly match these standards: 316L and 316LVM. These materials have been employed successfully in human implants that are in contact with soft tissue and bone for more than a decade. 316L and 316LVM: Designations for types of steel that meet the standards for "implant grade." 316 is the designation number. The "L" in these two designations stands for low carbon. The "VM" stands for vacuum melted. Both of these materials meet the ASTM designation F138 for "Implant Grade Stainless steel" and the ISO standard 5832-1 and 6892 for "Surgical Implant Material" and "Requirements Against Nickel Allergies." The ASTM and ISO American Society of Testing and Materials: The ASTM is a non-governmental organization that compiles information and makes standards for manufacturing, materials, and methods for just about everything. These standards are considered to be of the highest qualities. International Organization for Standards: The ISO (which is not an acronym, it is short for the Greek word isos meaning equal) is the European equivalent of the ASTM. The ISO is trying to standardize all European trade and manufacturing methods. ASTM "F" Series: The "F" series of the ASTM designations concern "medical grade materials" and are the guidelines for FDA approval of materials used in medical products. Responsible manufactures of any medical product comply with these standards. ASTM F138 Grade 1 & 2: F138 is the designation number for the "Standard Specification for Stainless Steel Bar and Wire for Surgical Implants." This standard characterizes composition and properties to insure consistency for medical implant devices. 316L adheres to grade 1 and 316LVM adheres to grades 1 and 2. Implant Grade Stainless Steel is chemically inert and atraumatic to the body so as not to react with the surrounding tissues or the immune system. Annealing The milling of stainless steel wire used in captive bead rings (not to be confused with bar stock that is used in barbells) work-hardens the wire to a point that it loses some of its corrosion resistance properties. It requires these properties to be considered implant grade. Annealing is a process of heat treating metal. It involves heating steel to about one half of its melting point and cooling it in a controlled environment. Annealing stainless steel serves to produce changes in the physical condition, mechanical properties and residual stress levels of the metal. Specifically, the annealing process serves to reduce the corrosive tendencies of the work-hardened metal. During annealing, chromium carbides, which markedly decrease resistance to inter-granular corrosion, are dissolved. Annealing literally cleans up the metal. We all know that annealed jewelry is easier to work with, and what we need to understand is that non-annealed jewelry might not be safe to use in piercings. Polish There are purposes for polishing the surface of bead rings other than aesthetics. A mirror finish is required for implant devices; the metal cannot be gray, blurred, or dull. When finished properly, stainless steel is resistant to degradation by the body's internal environment. Having a mirror finish will improve impact strength, decrease corrosion, and produce a non-porous surface that will not harbor bacteria. Individuals do not have problems with the material content. Rather, they have problems if the material is not finished properly and breaks apart due to wear, fatigue, and material fragment build ups. The surface of the metal must be free of any nicks, scratches, or burrs that increase surface area and allow for bacterial colonization which interferes with the body's healing process. 2A.2 NON METAL MATERIALS Acrylic Acrylic jewelry is most often worn in enlarged piercings when light-weight jewelry is desired. Acrylic is not intended to be worn in fresh or unhealed piercings. There is some debate among piercers regarding the safety of long term wear. Acrylic has not been clinically proven to be safe for wear in the body. Jewelry should be inspected frequently for scratches which can irritate the piercing and trap bacteria. Acrylic is very brittle and will shatter under stress. For releasing beads in captive bead rings, first warm the ring in the palm of your hand; do not use ring-expanding pliers. Acrylic cannot be autoclaved. Extended exposure to any type of alcohol will degrade acrylic jewelry. Nylon / Teflon Monofilament nylon and teflon are used where a more flexible piece of jewelry is desired or if the wearer is senstive to metals. Both can be autoclaved. Securing monofilament is often difficult. Appropriately bored threaded metal balls can be screwed onto the ends; the metal threads will cut threads in the monofilament. The ends may be flattened into a disc shape using a hot knife but the results may not be smooth or comfortable. 2A.2a Report on FDA Approved Acrylic by Michael Hare The Exotic Body, Sacramento, California http://www.exoticbody.com mike@exoticbody.com Presented at the Association of Professional Piercers Open Meeting May 1998 Edited by Anne Greenblatt We have found a Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved acrylic styrene copolymer (hereby referred to as "our acrylic"). Our acrylic provides superior resistance to stress hazing and surface grazing when compared to straight acrylic. The FDA has approved our acrylic for applications in which it is in contact with the body. Our acrylic meets USP XXI Class VI plastics guidelines for medical devices. The USP XXI Class VI testing is done by United States Pharmacopoeia which conducts biological tests for Class VI plastics. It has been determined that our acrylic meets USP XXI Class VI specifications and therefore is acceptable for use in medical applications. Cytotoxicity as well as Hemolysis tests were also done. The cytotoxicity test determine the degree of cell destruction caused by exposing certain cell cultures to an extract of the polymer. The Hemolysis test determines the degree of destruction of blood cells that occurs when specific extracts of the polymer are introduced into the blood. The results of these tests show that our acrylic is non-toxic as well as non-hemolytic. Glow-in-the-dark Acrylic It is our position that no glow-in-the-dark acrylic can be safe for the body. The phosphorescent material is carcinogenic. It should not be in contact with the body for any time. The alternative is UV or Black Lite acrylic which is reactive under a black light and appears to glow. This UV material is not carcinogenic. Sterilization and Disinfection of Acrylic At this time no known acrylic jewelry can be sterilized by autoclave. We have tested our acrylic in the most frequently used cold sterilization solutions. MadaCide: After soaking for 72 hours there was no cracking or discoloration of the jewelry. Isopropyl alcohol (91%): Soaking for 48 hours yielded the same result. We are in the process of looking into Gamma Ray Radiation sterilization. 2A.3 ORGANIC MATERIALS Thanks to Erica Skadsen / Organic for the information contained in this article. Please visit her webpage for photos and more information, at <http://www.spiritone.com/~organic> 2A.3a Hardwoods Hardwoods are most often used to make plugs for enlarged piercings, such as ear lobe, labret, and septum piercings. Hardwoods are natural materials that work in harmony with the body. They can "breathe" with a piercing and allows an interchange of oils. Wood stays warmer than metals. Wood does not develop the bad odor plastics can develop. Hardwoods are broad-leafed, deciduous trees (angiospermous). The term "hardwood" does not actually refer to hardness: for example, balsa is a hardwood. The part of the tree normally used is the center heartwood, normally darker and denser than the surrounding sapwood. A few species of wood commonly used for jewelry, furniture and inlays are endangered or threatened. These species are regulated by CITES, the Center for International Trade of Endangered Species. Endangered species include Brazilian rosewood (Dalbergia nigra). Threatened species include Mexican mahogany (Swietenia humilis) and Carribean mahogany (Swietenia mahagoni), Commoner (Guaiacum officinale), and Holywood lignum vitae aka "Tree of Life" (Guaiacum sanctum), Bigleaf mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla), and American mahogany (Swietenia meliaceae). In some cases, wood from threatened species is acquired by salvage or through sustainable harvesting. Grain (fibers within the wood) is considered either open or closed. Open-grained woods may collect bacteria, shed skin tissue, and dirt and hence generally should not be used for jewelry. The overall shape and dimensions of the piece should be consistent and appropriate for the particular piercing with room to allow for possible swelling. The finish should be free from scratches, pits or tool marks. The piece should be free of raised grain (wood fibers), even when wet. Luster varies from species to species and the wood may or may not shine. An oiled plug will appear dull. Because hardwoods are porous and readily absorb and release moisture, oil, and bacteria, hardwood plugs are best worn in healed piercings and dry areas of the body. Because hardwood jewelry cannot be sterilized it should always be handled by clean hands and only worn by one person. Autoclaving hardwood jewelry may cause it to crack, split, and warp. Hardwood jewelry should be cleaned regularly with a non-chemical soap that is safe for the body. Tea Tree oil can also be used; prior to use a patch test is recommended to test for allergy. Hardwood jewelry should be oiled after cleaning to benefit the skin and aid insertion. The type of finish applied is usually an oil and sometimes a sealant. Many finishing oils and sealing products contain chemicals, toxins, solvents, petroleum or animal products, or pigments. Using a finish that entirely seals a hardwood plug eliminates the purpose of wearing wood. I usually recommend a non-toxic oil or wax. Food grade oils such as olive and peanut are generally safe but may break down (turn rancid) with heat and time; pieces finished using food grade oils should be washed and re-oiled periodically to avoid turning rancid. Waxes can be animal or vegetable based; waxes may come off with heat or be rubbed off while cleaning. I do not recommend using pigment as most are chemical or solvent based and can fade or enter the bloodstream. Some people are allergic to certain hardwoods. A sensitivity to hardwoods can also be acquired with exposure. The risk of developing a sensitivity to certain hardwoods is increased for those who work with the woods by way of the dust which is produced in the production process. The hardwoods likely to cause allergic reactions include all woods within the Dalbergia genera, or the rosewoods: African blackwood (Dalbergia melanoxylon), Brazilian rosewood (Dalbergia nigra), Cocobolo (Dalbergia retusa), Indian rosewood, aka Bombay blackwood (Dalbergia latifolia), Kingwood aka Violetwood (Dalbergia cearensis), Tulipwood (Dalbergia frutescus), Teak (Tectona grandis), Purpleheart aka Amaranth (Peltogyne spp.); and possibly Greenheart and Satinwood (Chloroxylon swietenia). Some woods may be very hard to identify; for example, African blackwood can masquerade as ebony. 2A.3b Bamboo Bamboo is not a wood but a grass. Several thousand different species exist, ranging from tiny plants to huge towering trees. Many species are light yellow, tan, or green; some can be purplish or black. Most species are solid in color; some can be striped or spotted. Bamboo stalks are hollow and segmented with solid portions of culm. Bamboo is lightweight; its cross-section may be round, oval, or slightly cardioid (heart-shaped). The outside of the bamboo is naturally smmoth and protective and should not be removed to make plugs. The inside is normally whitish and may have a papery lining which is usually removed or is shed over time. 2A.3c Ivory, Horn, Antler Thanks to Jesse Jarrell <gjarrell@polarnet.com> for the information contained in this article. Please visit his webpage for photos and more information, at <http://www2.polarnet.com/~gjarrell/> Stabilizing Treatments All of these materials are somewhat porous and readily absorb moisture and skin oils. This can lead to cracking in a few of these materials. Absorption of moisture can be avoided by coating or pressure impregnating the material with a substance such as bee's wax or a hypoallergenic sealant. I would not recommend oiling ivory or horn jewelry as it will tend to promote cracking rather than deter it. Skin oils make these materials more flexible. With designs such as the captive bead ring, this can result in lost beads if the carver does not adjust for expansion. I recommend using a coating or some type of pressure treatment to prevent the ring from becoming flexible. Untreated captive bead rings should be very tight before they have been worn. If you are afraid of breaking an untreated ring you should wear the ring without the bead for about a day to soften the ring. Mammoth Ivory Mammoth ivory is easily acquired in Alaska, Siberia and other places where it has been preserved underground in permafrost for thousands of years. Gold miners often find it during erosion mining in glacial silt. Because of it's age mammoth ivory is difficult to acquire in large solid pieces. Ivory is softer than most stone and is flexible which makes it ideal for intricate and delicate carvings. The foremost disadvantage of using aged or fossilized ivory for body jewelry is that it absorbs skin oils which causes it crack. Mammoth ivory ranges in color from a cream white to a medium brown. Darker ivory is more fragile and will crack with moisture much more easily, making it unsuitable for delicate work. Fresh Ivory Most sources of fresh ivory such as elephant tusks are subject to legal restrictions. Two sources of unrestricted ivory are warthog and hippopatumus tusks. Fresh ivory does not have the same problems with cracking that aged ivory has. Dall Sheep Horn Dall sheep horn is semi-transparent material with an opaque white grain. The advantage of sheep horn is its superior flexibility over other organic materials. Sheep horn tends to distort or bend when exposed to moisture or skin oils. Body jewelry that must to hold a precise shape or is dependent on tension, like a captive bead ring, must be stabilized. Water Buffalo Horn When polished, water buffalo horn looks similar to ebony. It is not as flexible as sheep horn and has a much stronger grain, which makes delicate or detailed work more difficult. Because of the grain it will crack with exposure to skin oils and thus cannot be used for body jewelry unless stabilized. Moose, Elk and Deer Antler Antler varies in color from ivory white to shades of brown and gray and sometimes has a purplish hue near the surface. White antler can be nearly indistinguishable from ivory in appearance. Antler will almost never crack with exposure to moisture or skin oils. It is an excellent substitute for ivory because of its comparative cost, availability, and durability. However, it is a bit softer and more porous than ivory, resulting in less strength against fractures. -- -- Anne Greenblatt Manager of the rec.arts.bodyart Piercing FAQ Piercing Exquisite http://www.piercingexquisite.com User Contributions: |
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