1993 Plymouth Sundance looses power intermittently and slows...

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Answer by P. Kelly
Submitted on 9/1/2003
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Unfortunately, I don't have an answer to your question. Instead I'm joining you. My '92 Sundance also has this same symptom, but it comes and goes without warning. It happened about two weeks ago for about ten minutes. It was about five months before that and lasted a day and a half (off and on). I find if I quickly vary my foot pressure on the accelerator, I can Maintain my speed, or like you "stomp on the gas" to get her back up to speed. As soon as the transmission goes into "glide" mode, she starts to burp and hiccup. Stay with it for ten to fifteen minutes and it goes away. I've done every thing else, ie; plugs, distributer and associated parts, wires, etc. but it keeps coming back! HELP us PLEASE.

Answer by trent
Submitted on 11/29/2003
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I recently had to replace the tranny in my 94 grand caravan. Every place in town wanted between 1,200 and 2,200 to fix it. I finally found a shop to do it for 975, and that is where the trouble started. Since I got it back it started running worse and worse. Backfiring at idle or any speed as long as you were pressing on the gas pedal.I checked every wiring harness connection and vacume line I could find ,since it ran perfect when I took it to the shop, but I found nothing. I have also lost the lower blower settings on my heater controls. I am spellbound. PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT.I am getting 12, 21,and 32 on my error codes.Why would rebuilding a transmission cause this much havoc? Goodluck with your problems, an will appreciate any help you can offer.

Answer by Lori
Submitted on 9/18/2004
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It is something with the fuel system. I had this very same problem last year, it came on all of the sudden. My 1993 Plymouth Sundance would sputter and act as though it was going to completely shut down..it dropped from 45mph to 25, i floored the gas and it would eventually go up, but would keep doing the same thing. I changed the fuel filter and it went away completely. Again 1 year later I am having the same problem, hopefully it is the same easy fix. If anyone knows a way to prevent this, please talk :) I never run my tank below 1/2 tank, so I assume the tank or line has had stuff clogging it previous to when i bought the car in 4/2003. It has 126,000 miles on the engine.

Answer by sterjess
Submitted on 1/18/2007
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I was having a similar problem with my 93 geo metro, I also have a '92 metro so I have the luxury of switching parts till I find the culprit. The problem with mine was the ECU, although there were other problems after that. My throttle position sensor wasn't set properly, that will cause the chugging as well, the ecu was causing it to die, then the idle was set to high and the timing was set incorrectly as well, so there was a lot of things causing the problems with mine. I suggest getting a haynes or chiltons manual, making sure everything is set as it should be according the manual first, idle, timing, tps and if the problem persists and there's no codes in the ecu, probably the ecu itself, if there is codes replace the defective sensor of course.

Answer by Brad
Submitted on 2/19/2007
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My 88 turbo Sundance would intermittently cut out under sudden application of power. (I got the car for nothing but as much work as I've had to do on it since I wonder which of us got the better deal.) It was as though the ignition had been turned off for as long as 1/2 second when you really stepped on the gas. Sometimes it would do this several times in a row as though the ignition were being switched off and on. I had lots of advice, mostly to do with fuel supply. Since the problem depended on a heavy acceleration this made sense. Still, when it cut out it was so abrupt that a loss of fuel didn't make sense. I half suspected the turbo. Finally it quit. It could have picked a better place, and time; but I had been warned. By all I have read I surmise that the computer checks for vacuum, turns on the distributor pickup, checks for pulses, then turns on the fuel pump (and I suppose the injectors). This means that a simple voltmeter check at the coil will mislead you. It did me, and I held an ignition pickup assembly in my hand at the local parts store. 60$ was a lot for a shot in the dark so I went back to shine some more light on the problem. When you hook up a voltmeter to the + side of the coil you will see battery voltage applied only while cranking. (If the distributor fails to make pulses you may only see voltage for a few seconds.) This led me to pull the high tension lead from the center of the distributor. I had sparks. I checked the fuel supply again and had fuel pressure. I pulled a spark plug. It was wet with fuel but would not spark. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor (and the wires because the distributor pickups are a part of the wires). I went from a car that cut out occasionally to a car that would not run or start (outside air temp 3 degrees) to a perfectly purring engine for $20. The only problem I have with it now is that it's still a Chrysler.

Answer by Brad
Submitted on 2/19/2007
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My 88 turbo Sundance would intermittently cut out under sudden application of power. (I got the car for nothing but as much work as I've had to do on it since I wonder which of us got the better deal.) It was as though the ignition had been turned off for as long as 1/2 second when you really stepped on the gas. Sometimes it would do this several times in a row as though the ignition were being switched off and on. I had lots of advice, mostly to do with fuel supply. Since the problem depended on a heavy acceleration this made sense. Still, when it cut out it was so abrupt that a loss of fuel didn't make sense. I half suspected the turbo. Finally it quit. It could have picked a better place, and time; but I had been warned. By all I have read I surmise that the computer checks for vacuum, turns on the distributor pickup, checks for pulses, then turns on the fuel pump (and I suppose the injectors). This means that a simple voltmeter check at the coil will mislead you. It did me, and I held an ignition pickup assembly in my hand at the local parts store. 60$ was a lot for a shot in the dark so I went back to shine some more light on the problem. When you hook up a voltmeter to the + side of the coil you will see battery voltage applied only while cranking. (If the distributor fails to make pulses you may only see voltage for a few seconds.) This led me to pull the high tension lead from the center of the distributor. I had sparks. I checked the fuel supply again and had fuel pressure. I pulled a spark plug. It was wet with fuel but would not spark. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor (and the wires because the distributor pickups are a part of the wires). I went from a car that cut out occasionally to a car that would not run or start (outside air temp 3 degrees) to a perfectly purring engine for $20. The only problem I have with it now is that it's still a Chrysler.

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Question by bobby
Submitted on 7/31/2003
Related FAQ: rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 1/6
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1993 Plymouth Sundance looses power intermittently and slows down with normal acceleration. If I "floor" the gas pedal, it will accelerate okay. Sometimes, at steady speeds around 40 mph, it will start to lurch. Only happens if vehicle is warm, not cold. Computer code indicates oxygen sensor is not moving. Could it really be the oxygen sensor?

Answer by patti
Submitted on 9/13/2003
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I have a 93 vette I was having the same problem!I work at a dealership they told me to run some fuel injector cleaner threw the injector hose to clean the injectors it worked!!! My car runs GREAT!!! Try it...it will not hurt!!! You can buy it at Nappa or Pep Boys.

Answer by red7
Submitted on 9/27/2003
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Your problem is clogged fuel line or fuel injectors. you get it from running your gas tank down to empty or near empty and junk from the bottom of your tank gets in your injectors or fuel pump. Yes, you can go buy the gas additives for your gas tank or if your problem is bad, you might need to drop the gas tank and have it cleaned. We had to have the gas line blown clean with a compressor for our '79 doge van. The key to this problem is don't run your tank down to empty.

Answer by Sue H
Submitted on 10/6/2003
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This is mainly for P. Kelly, I had the same problem with my 93' Sundance for two years, changed everything like you did, but I was mainly having the problem when I was trying to go up a hill when the car was at normal operating temp. Mechanics told me it was the catalytic converter, fuel filter, EGR valve and many more. The replacement of the cat. converter had made the biggest difference so far, but I continue to have the problem. Just a few weeks ago the car died while I was driving, no warning signs, nothing. We are now checking the fuel pump and the entire fuel system. Good luck in solving this mystery, and thanks for sharing your problem.

Answer by Actuallyfred
Submitted on 12/2/2003
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The problem is the cruise control unit, had it fixed on my 93 duster.(sundance).. all same problems, is a cheap fix too was 79 canadian, But tonight the heap of junk decided to have fuel pump problems, little did I know, before the tow driver got there, that if you kick the gas tank a few good times and then hit the ignition you gotta chance...

Answer by the big tim
Submitted on 2/17/2004
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may be the fuel filter is clogged.

Answer by mike
Submitted on 3/7/2004
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I had the same problem of loss of power or stumbling. It could get really bad on the highway. Changed my fuel filter yesterday and teh problem is 100%R gone and car is running great.

Answer by stello
Submitted on 6/6/2004
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i do not have a anwer but i like to know cause i have a 88plymouth sundance it runs great but when some time im driving and the car feels like the accelorator just shuts offand turn on over and over i have to pull over shut the car offand turn it on to work

Answer by Dallas
Submitted on 3/5/2005
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I have the same problem as the last guy. My 91 Plymouth Sundance will just die as though I turned off the ignition. Then if I wait a few seconds to a few hours, it will run again fine for a few days.

Answer by Chris
Submitted on 11/21/2005
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I had the same problem with my 1993 Plymouth Sundance and it occured twice...first time after I FIRST took it out after a year of sitting there second time after I ran the tank on empty. Took it in and they said the fuel system was clogged. Replaced the injector and fuel line and everything is gone! You can also just get fuel injector cleaner they said that'll do the trick but I didn't want to take any chances! Chris

Answer by moe
Submitted on 3/23/2006
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Dunno if this site is in use much.... but i just got my 87 sun dance back on the road, well, my dad did (lol), but lately, same problem as bobby first described. Yet, first thing in the morning when its cold, its fine. Gonna have to try cleaning the fuel injector first, hope thats all it is...

Answer by Nico
Submitted on 6/19/2006
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93 Plymouth Sundance 2.5L SOHC, and I am having the exact same problems. When I hit 55 or so and try to level off my speed, the acceleration cuts in and out and the whole car thrusts forward and backward. I replaced Fuel Filter, Spark Plug Wires, Gas Lines, and a few other things. Still no fix!! I had a Oxygen Sensor code appear and disappear for a short time (after I reset the computer). I want to replace the Oxygen Sensor next, but I don't want it to be a 44.99 dollar mistake. Any advice?

Answer by Mike
Submitted on 10/7/2006
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People....the problem here is a simple one. Codes show oxygen sensor, replace it. I had the same sluggish feel when the engine warmed up and would jerk a bit. when i stepped on the gas it would smooth out a little. the problem is only around $40 for a new oxygen sensor. i replaced mine and it runs smooth all the time now. replace that before you let a mechanic replace expensive parts you dont need just to get him the higher repair price.

Answer by 95RAM
Submitted on 10/14/2006
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i have the same problem with my 92 ply voyager and my first thought was the tps sensor was loosing position on the throttle blade but i checked the resistance through a range of throttle positions it was fine then i checked my codes and it was showing an 02 sensor fault so i unpluged it therefore putting the computer into open loop taking info from other sensors to calculate a fuel map when the engine is below usually 160 degrees. That didn't work so i am currently looking into a faulty pressure regulator and i'vealready cleaned the injectors so if anyone has an idea help?

Answer by big john
Submitted on 11/25/2006
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yes it could just be the o2 sensor or it could have other problems.or it might be a portion of the wireing harness that is connected to it. it may just be grounding itself on one of your body panels with no warning to you.I only have really one question for you does it have a manual or is it automatic?

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Answer by matthew
Submitted on 12/1/2006
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Recently I had that problem as well with my 92 plmouth sundance. Going on an incline or sometimes even flat ground the engine would lurk really bad. I changed out everything from the exhaust, fuel filter fuel lines and air filter. Finally I changed out the injector itself and it ran perfectly afterwards. Mine too would act up after it warmed up. Change out your injector and switch to a higher grade of gas if you are having a lean air mixture

Answer by leo
Submitted on 12/20/2006
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men it s clearly a sensor .if you wanna be sure change this and you will see.

Answer by kgfilcik@juno.com
Submitted on 3/22/2007
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Had same problem with my 93 Sundance. Symptom was hesitation and sometimes stalling when accelerating after first minute or so of operation. Replaced plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, patched broken vacuum lines and still had problem. There were no engine failure codes from computer. SOLUTION for me turned out to be loose hall effect sensor vane assembly in distributor. It is held in place by 4 plastic welds - 3 of which were broken, so vane assembly was very loose. I drilled 3 small holes and screwed it down with 3 tiny screws. This fixed problem immediately and it has run perfectly since! Hope this helps.

Answer by Doug
Submitted on 3/29/2007
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Yes, it can really be the O2 sensor. I have had the same problem on both my '93 Sundance and our '94 Intrepid. The O2 sensor can and does cause the problem you listed. If the diagnostics indicate the O2 sensor, replace the sucker. Problem will likely disappear

Answer by kay
Submitted on 6/13/2007
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hello i have a Plymouth sundance 1993 and every time i drive it the transmission seems like it don't get power please tell me whats wrong