Top Document: alt.guitar.rickenbacker Frequently Asked Questions Previous Document: 5.9 Oil finishes too? Next Document: 5.11 What are the types of magnets used in the different kinds of pickups? See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge You might like the difference it makes, but Rickenbacker put quite a bit of effort into into the design of these pickups. Here's what John Hall has to say about it: "The modern reissues measure about 11.2K with a lab grade ohmmeter. As I said before, you'll find genuine vintage pickups which have a variety of specs . . . sometimes as high as 16K and as low as 7K ohms DC resistance. The modern one is indeed a compromise between output and a particular type of sound, but not any greater of a compromise than many of the original, unspecified or less-than-consistent units. During the vintage pickup "redesign" phase, we tested close to 100 pickups from a variety of parameters and the current product is essentially an average or composite of all these units. But beyond this, we even looked through all of our old production and purchasing records to make sure we are using materials of the genuine specs. I can tell you that again that nothing other than #44 wire has been purchased, although several different insulation materials and other wire coatings have been used through the years." [John Hall, ceo@rickenbacker.com, 7/10/1998] Here is the unwinding procedure, as given by Ted Breaux: Ric Pickup Unwinding Procedure Materials Needed: small soldering iron electrical tape small flat-head screwdriver Phillips-head scredriver Ohmmeter 2-hours and maybe a beer towel cigarette lighter 1) Lay the instrument on a soft, supportive surface, and loosen strings. Remove small bidge cover plate so that strings can be moved to side of bidge. 2) Using the Phillps screwdriver, remove the top pickguard section, being careful not to lose the small rubber grommets which are under the screws. 3) Carefully unscrew the center screw on each side of the bridge pickup. When these become loose, carefully remove the small rubber grommets under the corner pickup screws. If one of these falls into the 'f'-hole, you'll be lucky to get it back. 4) Carefully pull the pickup away from the body of the guitar. Cupping the pickup firmly in your hand, unscrew the corner pickup screws while holding the nuts on the bottom side. Remove all four screws and nuts. One screw holds the ground lug. Rest the backing plate on the guitar body. 5) Using the small flat-head screwdriver, pry the pickup body from the toaster cover. Carefully unwind the sticky electrical tape from the pickup windings. Stick this in a hanging position somewhere, as you will reuse it later. 6) On the bottom of the pickup body, you will see the magnet poles and two terminals. If you measure the resistance between the two terminals, the reading will likely be between 11.7-11.9k ohms. You will see the fine coil wire pass in a slot in the plastic bobbin near the outermost terminal. Don't worry about trying to unsolder it, just gently pull it from the terminal, and it will easily pop off. 7) Now, holding the pickup in one hand such that the face of the pickup is sideways, grip the little end of loose wire, and pull it away from the face. The first few times the wire will keep snapping off due to the glue, but soon, you'll be pulling a long, silky stream of wire off the pickup. Don't be bashful, you should be pulling off at least several windings per stroke of the hand. Make about 200-250 hand strokes, then break the wire. 8) Using the cigarette lighter, quickly burn the end of the wire. You'll see a little piece melt off, but the new end will be free of insulation. Carefully pinching the tiny end to one probe of your meter (with your finger), touch the inside terminal on the pickup with the other probe and measure the resistance. Make a mental note of this and continue unwinding. 9) When you reach about 7.5k, break the tiny wire such that you can carefully return it to its tiny channel near the edge terminal. Place the pickup upside down on a towel. Place the tiny wire against the solder bead on the terminal, and just touch the tiny wire against the terminal with the soldering iron until the solder melts around the wire. The hot tip of the soldering iron will melt the insulation off the tiny wire, so don't be too concerned about that. Trim off any excess wire to prevent a short due to a dangling end. Measure the resistance between the two terminals to verify a good connection. 10) Carefully rewrap the factory electrical tape around the coil, and follow with 2-3 turns of your electrical tape to compensate for the slightly smaller coil size. Verify the connection again with the meter. Press the pickup body back into the chrome top. It should fit snugly. Carefully remount the pickup to the guitar body. Plug the guitar into an amp and tap the pickup with a screwdriver to verify the connection. If all is well, repeat for the remaining pickup(s). When you go to play the guitar, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. You'll notice that it sounds virtually identical to the Ric guitars in the famous records from the 60s. [Ted A. Breaux, tabreaux@bellsouth.net, 7/8/1998] User Contributions:Top Document: alt.guitar.rickenbacker Frequently Asked Questions Previous Document: 5.9 Oil finishes too? Next Document: 5.11 What are the types of magnets used in the different kinds of pickups? 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