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Archive-name: motorcycles/beginner-info
Rec-motorcycles-archive-name: beginner-info Posting-Frequency: monthly (5th of each month) Last-modified: 1996/09/03 Version: 2.0 URL: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/docs/beginner.html See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge this document is available through the web at http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/docs/beginner.html this is one of the most interesting and worthwhile posts that i ever read on rec.moto and i reproduce it in entirety, since i am not capable of making half the sense! this document was prepared by Lisa Delorme and with her permission i continue to repost it every once in a while. please send all comments and criticism to: rn@bell-labs.com. Thanks to: Lisa Delorme, Lissa Shoun, Andy Beals, Don "Pooder" Fearn. a small point before we proceed: 0. THE BIKE! one of the questions that is posed by almost each person new to motorcycling and rec.moto is: What bike should i buy?. there is no one answer to this question and if you have to ask us what you want to buy, maybe you haven't understood motorcycling yet! however, if this is the first time you are going to ride a motorcycle, a goldwing or a ninja zx-11 may not be the right bike for you. believe us, when we tell you that there is enough time left in your life for you to get 10 dream bikes. as a beginner you have to bear in mind that you are more liable to drop your bike, and more liable to drop it on yourself! keep the costs of the bike down, buy used, buy a rat bike, something without too much plastic. go for something light and easy to handle, with not too much power. an ideal beginner's bike would be in the range of 250-600cc, and you should be able to get a used bike in this range, in most parts, for about $1000-$2000. despite the amazing performance of the latest fgxsrz as reported in the media, it may not be the right bike for you due to various reasons such as comfort (handlebar reach, footpeg height, inclination and width of the seat, airflow), power, weight and a few hundred other features that are individual to you and cannot be gauged by the media reviewers. remember that the 0.2 second difference in the 1/4 mile has no significance on the road. read the reviews, but select a motorcycle based on how well it suites your needs, and how comfortable it feels. motorcycling involves a great level of interaction between the rider and the motorcycle and seemingly minor details (at the time of purchase) lacking/present in the bike, assume major significance after 100 miles on the road. - ravi ......................... Lisa Delorme's article ........................... You must understand that I wrote this document with two particular people in mind. They are the kind of people who on more than one occasion have said "What do I need to take a class for? Here's the brake, here's the gas, what more do you need to Know? and they actually meant it! Thus, my main concern here was to nip any squidly tendencies in the bud. That should explain the real heavy handed tone that I take here. So, I will tell them how not to be a squid and Conrad can tell them what they really need to know. -----8<-----8<-----8<-----8<-- cut here --8<-----8<-----8<-----8<-----8<--- This document is long and wordy, sorry about that. Everything here is at a very basic level and I tried to only cover the immediately necessary things. Sorry if I insult anyone's intelligence but I didn't want to assume anything. At the end are phone numbers of several cheap sources for buying all the things recommended here. 1) TAKE THE MSF COURSE !!!!! The first thing you will want to do before buying a bike is to take the Motorcycle Safety Foundation course. The course is multi-session (over 1-4 days) and involves both classroom and riding. Even if you have ridden before or have already started riding now you should take the basic class. Experienced professionals teach you how to ride, turn, break, accident avoidance, etc. ie.generally how not to get crunched. You DON'T need a dmv permit/license to take the class, and motorcycles and helmets will be provided. Call 1-800-447-4700 (national) or 1-800-cc-rider (CA) to find out where to take it. Cost is $50-150 depending on age and location, whatever the price, it is well worth it. If you ignore all the advice here, don't ignore this one, your health insurance company may later thank you! Next year you can take the advanced class. 2) BUYING A HELMET Get one, get one immediately, and get a full face one, they offer more protection than half face helmets. Order it early or you will either have to sit waiting a few days after you get your bike or risk helmet-less rides. You can get one immediately from a dealer but you will pay $50-$80 more than if you get it mail order. Order the best one you can afford, here isn't the place to skimp and order a $50 one (unless of course you have the infamous $50 head).The Shoei RF-200 is a good helmet at a reasonable price (about $140 mail order). Phone numbers for mail orders are included at the end. The fit of the helmet is important, it should be tight enough that the pads firmly touch your cheeks. It should be tight enough that you can't grab it and roll it off or rotate it from side to side very much. But, it should be loose enough that it doesn't pinch or bind your cheeks or forehead, this will cause fatigue. Sizes vary by brand, A large in one brand will be like a medium in another brand. You must try on the exact brand/model in a new (not used) version before buying. Go to a dealer or cycle shop and try on several, then order mail-order. (and buy something small from the dealer for his/her trouble). If it comes in the mail and doesn't fit right, return it! Some people claim that helmets restrict your vision, it's not true. Others claim it reduces your hearing, it actually helps you hear over the engine. As for the claim they cause neck injuries, I can't offer any evidence on that but I will take my chances. Wear one for a month and decide for yourself. The first week it will feel weird (especially a full face) but it will quickly become as comfy and familiar as your old fuzzy blanket. 3. SAFETY GEAR If you want to be fully safe you should be covered from head to toe every time you ride. Buy all the equipment you can and wear it, even on hot days or for just a jog to the store. Again, get the best your budget allows. Good clothing will protect you from the nasty cuts and abrasions (and glass!) that happen even in a low speed slide. Many people with older used bikes spend about as much on equipment/helmet etc. as on our bikes, devote a generous portion of your cycling budget to clothing. Here's what you need: JACKET: Get a high quality leather jacket suitable for motorcycling, not a thin "fashion" leather jacket. These begin at about $300. Make the fit tight enough that it won't ride up and expose your skin in a slide and loose enough that you can put sweaters under when it's cold. Leather isn't the warmest garment, its more for protection than cold. See that it closes firmly at the neck and wrists or you will get quite cold. Leather made for racing is the best but it is expensive. Shop at a motorcycle store or good quality leather factory, boutiques and department stores generally don't have suitable jackets. [with Pooder's correction:] As an alternative to leather, Aerostich makes high quality riding wear made of a cordura/Goretex laminate. The Goretex is there to make it nearly waterproof while still allowing your body fumes to escape. Because it's one more layer, the Goretex may also provide some additional abrasion resistance, but its main reason for being there is waterproofing. PANTS: Ideally you should have leather or Aerostich pants on all the time. This can however be expensive as well as impractical to walk around in or carry around all day. But, a famous study found that Levi's only last for about 4 feet in a slide before they give way and expose your bare skin to the pavement (no cite). There isn't an easy solution to the protection/inconvenience trade off here. Aerostich makes pants that zip together with their jackets (~$300) or a one piece step in riding suit (~$600) Leather suits come in two zip together pieces (jacket/pants). Again, no fashion leather. FOOTGEAR: Good quality leather riding boots are the best protection for your feet in a crash. (high boots, no heels!) If you must wear sneakers at least make them high tops that cover the ankle and lace them firmly. Most kinds of sneakers or regular shoes tend to come off in a crash. Sandals, dress shoes or open shoes are out of the question, even if you don't crash they make it hard to control the bike and land your feet correctly when stopping. GLOVES: They give you better throttle control and protect you in a crash. At first, they feel weird and make it feel as if it is harder to use the controls but you get used to them quickly. Get leather (whatelse?) Check saddlery stores if you can't get a good fit at a cycleshop. EYE PROTECTION: If you don't have a full face helmet then wear goggles, without them the wind in your eyes is too intense to see properly, sunglasses won't do it because the wind just blows under them. With a helmet and shield you will still need to carry sunglasses. Without a roof the sun for you will be much more glaring than in a car. You can also get a tinted face-shield, but only for daytime riding. Get one pair just for the bike and bend the paddles (earpieces) of the glasses so that they are straight, they will fit under the helmet much easier. [Andy Beals adds: Or, buy a pair of [real] aviator-style military surplus sunglasses - straight earpieces designed to slip on when you're wearing a helmet. Probably available at your local surplus store and definitely via mail-order from Kaufman's Surplus. Not cheapie sunglasses, real Ray-Bans]. If you plan to carry passengers you are responsible for providing a similar set of gear for them if they don't have their own. Whenever you replace your original equipment and clothing consider keeping the old stuff around (if it is still serviceable) and building a passenger set. Don't let improperly attired people pressure you into giving them a ride! (they will try). You will probably want to wait at least 6 months before carrying passengers anyway. 4. INSURANCE) Same Advice, get it now Most car companies don't cover bikes so you will need separate insurance. Some car companies only cover smaller bikes. Cycle insurance is first of all based on the size of the bike, then record, age and other factors. A 25 year old with a GS450 can pay less than $100 a year, an 18 year old with a ZX-750 (ie. a ninja) can pay up to $1000 per year. Cycle mags often advertise companies that cover cyclists, you can also get it through dealers, most have an association with one or another company. In an accident with a car, you and your passenger will probably (I know all accidents are different!) incur the greatest medical bills while the car will incur the greatest property damage. The bike will probably be in worse shape than the car, but unless you have a fancy new bike the car will probably cost a lot more so $$$damages will be higher for the car than the bike. Think about this when deciding what coverage to get. 5. TOOLS & MANUAL Start assembling a tool kit to keep in the house and a smaller one to carry on the bike, don't worry, even with a brand new bike you will soon need it. If you are not willing to do any repair work you should either find a rich uncle or reconsider and buy a Volvo. Bikes aren't like cars, you can't just slap some new oil in them once a year and run them into the ground. They operate on an intricate system of cables, chains, mirrors and trick doors that all need fairly constant adjustments. A new bike will probably save you a lot of early complex repairs but you will still have to adjust clutch cables, brake cables, chains, etc. All of these require more frequent and more precise adjustments than a car. Unlike for cars, there is not a bike shop on every corner and parts are much harder to get. Even if you have mucho bucks and are willing to let a mechanic do everything it just isn't always possible. Luckily bike repair is easier (I think) and more enjoyable than doing a car. Order a Clymer repair manual as soon as you get your bike, also consider the factory service manuals if they are available. Clymer should run you $15. If you want to go all out you can even keep frequently used spare parts around, it's a pain not to ride for a month when Kawasaki takes that long to deliver a stupid $10 part, but that's going beyond beginner advice so back to the story. The basics for your tool kit will include: - A set of spare spark plugs - A spark plug socket and socket wrench - Impact driver and hammer for removing hard to turn screws on the engine covers (oil filter cover, point cover, timing cover,) - An adjustable wrench - Spare cotter pins for the axles and pliers to remove them - Spare chain master link and clip - Tire pressure gauge These are what I would call the very basics, I'm sure others would argue with me so go ahead and accumulate whatever you wish to your little hearts desire. Consider how badly it would ruin your day not to ride because you are waiting for a part on order or how much/far you are willing to push home if you break down without tools and plan accordingly. Remember, this document errs on the conservative side, hopefully you will have a smooth cycling experience and will never have to push home. Proper care and feeding of your motorcycle will make this even less likely. 6. Miscellaneous 1) Buy same chain lube right away. You have to put it on your chain every 200 miles and those miles will accumulate quickly. 2) You can accessorize until your bank account is busted, I won't advise you on that. One (I think) necessity is a bungee net for carrying those objects one inevitably picks up in the course of a day. You can get fancy and more expensive options (tank bags etc.) later 3) When your bike won't start, check first that the three most obvious things are in the operating position (kill switch, sidestand, fuel petcock) before running for the manual. Yes, we have ALL at one time or another sat scratching our head trying to start the bike and then found one of these in the off position. 4) You can keep your bike shiny new and prevent rusting by covering it at night and giving it an occasional polishing (as well as cleaning) with a scotchbright nylon pad and a little Mother's aluminum polish or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. Besides appearance, it helps with maintenance, rusted parts can be a bitch to remove. 5) The fork lock on the ignition can be easily broken, if you value your ride consider a kryptonite lock or other protection. 6) If you ever plan to not ride for 2-3 months (vacation,snow) you must properly prepare you bike for storage in advance or else you will have some nasty stuff to deal with upon your return (ie. an inoperable bike) I won't go into all the details of removing batteries, draining tanks, etc here, just be aware that you need to find out the procedure before winter/vacation. A battery charger is a good investment if you will need it to do this, it will pay for itself quick. 7) Always be courteous and wave to other cyclists on the road, even if they ride brands you hate. Oh yeah- and as Honda says on their gas tanks "preserve nature" 8-) 8. DOD- Turn up that flamethrower now Of course you must plan to read rec.motorcycles regularly. A daily dose of bragging, flaming, false bravado and generally sound good advice is a necessary component of the riding experience. Brush up on your begging ability, you will need it to get a DOD number. Then tune up your flame thrower and be ready to cast it on people who ask questions like "I already ride a bicycle, how hard could a motorcycle be?" or "Why does the daemon mascot look like an owl?" 8. Phone Numbers The Big Guys The following companies are large mail order houses that will ship at least nation wide with the appropriate shipping and handling fee. (Sorry! I don't know about outside the U.S.) The things they carry include: helmets, jackets, T-shirts, repair manuals, tires, exhausts, chains, fairings, oil & chemicals, brake pads, in short, almost anything you could want. Chapparal- (San Bernadino, CA) Will send free Catalogue. 1-800-841-2960 Motorcycle Accessories Warehouse) (CA, NV & PA) Will send free catalogue I believe. 1-800-241-2222 Competition Accessories- (Xenia, OH) 1-800-543-3535. Don't know about catalogue (any company will send it free with an order though) Dennis Kirk- Will send free catalogue, 1-800-328-9280 Shade Tree- 1-800-866-4747, Free Cat. Donelson Cycles- (St. Louis) 1-800-325-4144. Small charge for catalogue I believe. Laurel Highlands- 1-800-332-0670 (Norvelt, PA) $2 for cat. Specialty Houses They carry one or two types of products exclusively. All have shipping in at least the continental U.S. Bates Leather (Long Beach, CA) ) They make high quality motorcycling jackets and pants. They are reportedly very good at making sizes to fit women. They will send you a catalogue and samples for $3.00. 213-435-6551 Aerostich- Makers of very high quality cordura/kevlar riding suits. They will send you a free catalogue. If you are female or unusually sized you should ask to speak to one of the seamstresses when ordering the suit as Andy Goldfine (the owner & designer) isn't too swift at fitting women's sizes, but he is a heck of a nice guy anyway. 1-800-222-1994 Autobound (Alameda, CA) Retail store devoted exclusively to books about driving or riding, particularly repair manuals. Despite the awful name of the store, they do carry an extensive line of motorcycle manuals, including many older, hard to find ones. Warning, go here as a last resort, their prices can be up to $10 higher than at the dealer or through mail order. 415-521-8630 Hidalgo- they make sunglasses and prescription eyeglasses that are easy to fit under helmets. Prices are less than any optical store. Will send free catalogue. 1-800-786-2021 Cycle Tow- (San Francisco Bay Area Only!) Rich Gibbon is a nice guy. Should your cycle ever be stuck inoperable somewhere, he will transport it for you (for a nominal fee of course) in a truck specifically equipped for hauling/towing motorcycles. He is based at Berkeley Yamaha, price will vary with distance. 415-525-8243 or pager at 415-678-2174. Cool-Tech Leather Jackets- 1-800-426-4704 Free cat Mike Corbin- Boots and Seats, Custom made. Pricey but reputed to be the best. 1-800-662-6296 ( Toll free is CA only?) Parts Dealers Always go to your local dealer first before going to these places. Your business keeps them in business, that way the local guy will be there when you need them. If you have no local dealer or he/she is obstinate, uncooperative, or sexist then you can try one of these places Midwest Action Cycle) Suzuki, Kawasaki, Honda 1-800-323-0078 (no catalogues for parts) I could list many more fine places here, but I will let you discover all the rest of the places that will be happy to take your money and make you more unwilling to part with your bike than ever. I know this sounds like a ton of stuff and might at this point make the sport seem more complicated than it's worth. Nothing could be further from the truth! -- ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ none-%er #2 ~ ~ ~ ravi narayan | ask me about the rec.motorcycles FAQ | 89 suzuki gs500e at&t bell labs | the nj-cycles and east mailing lists | 92 ducati 750ss rn@bell-labs.com_|__ http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi _____|___DoD squid #1 ____ User Contributions:
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