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alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

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Archive-name: locksmith-faq
Posting-Frequency: monthly (mid-month)
Last-modified: 01/12/31
Version: 6.51
[1]alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions

This FAQ does not attempt to teach you locksmithing, just to answer
simple questions, give you some hints on getting started, and point
you to sources of information. Also included is a glossary of common
terms. The Appendix covers many supply places, books and tapes.

This FAQ is posted monthly to the USENET groups [2]"alt.locksmithing",
[3]"alt.answers", and [4]"news.answers". The latest version of the FAQ
should be available from the USENET FTP archives on "" in
directory "/pub/usenet/alt.locksmithing" and can be read at (You'll have to click on the "alt" Hierarchy, and
then select this faq by clicking. You can also retrieve this FAQ by
email; send mail to "" with "send
usenet/alt.locksmithing/*" contained in the BODY of the message.

A hypertext version of this FAQ may be accessed at on the
World Wide Web using
Version 6.51 Last changed 12/31/01

Questions Answered:

See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge
    0. [5]Will people on this newsgroup give me information about picking
       locks, etc.?
    1. [6]Where can I get a lock pick set?
    2. [7]How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?
    3. [8]Is it legal to carry lock picks?
    4. [9]Where can I get the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?
          + [10]I can't print the Guide!
    5. [11]What books can I get on locksmithing?
    6. [12]What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?
    7. [13]How do I open a Kryptonite lock?
    8. [14]Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?
    9. [15]How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?
   10. [16]Do Skeleton Keys Exist?
   11. [17]Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks and
       other security enhancements for my home?
   12. [18]What should I do after I read a book?
   13. [19]How do I continue learning about locksmithing?
   14. [20]How do I learn the locksmithing trade?
   15. [21]How do I learn more about Master Keying?
   16. [22]How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?
   17. [23]Is there a formula that can find the combination of a Master
   18. [24]Can the combination of a Master Lock be found though
   19. [25]What is the "shear line".
   20. [26]What is "impressioning"?
   21. [27]What is a code? What is a codebook?
   22. [28]How do I open a car with a Slim Jim?
   23. [29]What is a jiggler key?
   24. [30]Is there an ethical dimension to locksmithing?
   25. [31]I have a safe without the combination - how do I open it?
   26. [32]How do I change the combination of a safe?
   27. [33]How do I disassemble a Kwikset key in knob entry set?
   28. [34]Why are posts of binaries (pictures) against the consensus
       rules of this
   29. [35]Should my business be a shop or a mobile unit (truck)? 
          + [36]Other online locksmithing related resources
          + [37]Glossary
          + [38]Appendix of sources, books, videotapes.
          + [39]Information for collectors.
          + [40]Workshop contents.
          + [41]Credit & Thanks
  0. Will people on this newsgroup give me information about picking locks,
       Yes and No. These is a serious debate, based on serious
       principles. Most experienced people here are quite willing to
       discuss the basics of lock construction and operation. Few (if
       any) are willing to give specific answers regarding opening a
       particular lock or safe - without knowing the asker or having
       other evidence that the inquiry is legitimate.
       Another balancing act regards the general effect of information.
       As Joe K. put it succinctly, "On one side there are the idealists
       who believe that even weak security should not be further
       compromised without good reason; on the other there are those who
       believe that weak locks should be forced out of the market.
       There's never going to be agreement here... can we just agree that
       reasonable people can disagree, and have done with it?"
       People have contrasted locksmithing "security by obscurity" with
       practice in the software arena (in which it has generally been
       considered to be misguided and therefore be bad for society.)
       Exposing flaws as a social good breaks down when there are
       hundreds of thousands of current owners of the product who don't
       know that the flaw has been exposed. Even if they find out, there
       is another big difference. This is the cost of correcting the flaw
       (upgrading.) Installing the patches on your copy of software takes
       a bit of effort, but you don't have to throw out and purchase a
       new physical product (such as a lock.) The manufacturer of the
       lock is pretty certain not to make it available for free.
       Basically you have to buy a new item and have it replaced, and
       this adversly impacts users, many of whom do not have the budget
       to correct the flaw. Therefore publishing the security flaw costs
       users *much* more for a lock than for a piece of software.
       And the fact is that a nominally flawed product _does_ provide
       adequate security against the unmotivated and ignorant who are the
       primary folks attacking physical security systems (as opposed to
       the motivated and clueful who attack electronic security and can
       do it from a distance without physical presence).
  1. Where can I get a lock pick set?
       Try a locksmith supply house. Look under "Locksmiths' Equipment &
       Supplies" in the Yellow Pages. Your locality, State or the company
       may have requirements, such as having to prove you are a locksmith
       or showing a drivers license; call and find out. Look for mail
       order houses in the Appendix. You can also check on the Web for
  2. How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?
       You can file or (more easily) grind picks out of spring steel. It
       is best to use spring steel - sources include hacksaw blades,
       piano (music) wire, clock springs, street sweeper bristles (which
       can be found along the street after the sweeper has passed), metal
       from a plumbers "snake", etc. In a pinch safety pin steel, or even
       a bobby pin (much worse) can be used. When grinding, keep the
       steel from getting so hot as to anneal (soften) it. You may have
       to re-harden/re-temper it. (See a book on knife making,
       gunsmithing, or machine shop practice for a discussion on heat
       treating steel. Spring steel is hardened and then tempered/drawn
       so as to retain some hardness and to get quite a bit of
       flexibility.) Some people prefer a rigid tension wrench and just
       bend a small screwdriver for this, but many prefer a slightly
       flexible wrench and use spring steel.
       The "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" and the "Eddie The Wire" books
       (see below) cover making these tools. There are many places you
       can buy picks and tension wrenches. See the appendix.
       Steve Haehnichen <> maintained an archive of GIF
       and JPEG images of picks located at
       [42] which are useful guides for
       those making their own picks. But this link isn't working right
       now - this is being checked.
       Another [43]archive has some pickes illustrated, but does not show
       the rake pick.
  3. Is it legal to carry lock picks?
       This depends on where you are. In the U.S. the common case seems
       to be that it is legal to carry potential "burglar tools" such as
       keys, picks, crowbars, jacks, bricks, etc., but use of such tools
       to commit a crime is a crime in itself. Call your local library,
       district attorney, police department, or your own attorney to be
       sure. Possession of potential "burglar tools" can be be used as
       evidence against you if you are found in incriminating
       circumstances. An example of a state law can be found in the
       Viginia State Code: Section 18.2-94 _Possession of burglarious
       tools, etc._ "If any person have in his possession any tools,
       implements or outfit, with intent to commit burglary, robbery or
       larceny, upon conviction thereof he shall be guilty of a Class 5
       Note that the prosecution has to prove "intent". However, the law
       continues: "The possession of such burglarious tools, implements
       or outfit by any person other than a licensed dealer, shall be
       prima facie evidence of an intent to commit burglary, robbery or
       larceny." This means that the possessor can have a bit of an
       uphill battle and has to convince the jury that this 'prima facie
       evidence' is misleading.
       Places where it *is* illegal to carry lock picks:
       The District of Columbia, New York State and Illinois. New Jersey
       law appears to make these illegal if they can work motor vehicle
       locks. There may be many other places as well (such as Canada,
       Maryland and California.) It can be hard to tell since the
       relevant laws can be dealing with burglary, motor vehicles or
       locksmith regulation, etc. This emphasizes the importance of
       finding out for *your* area - and determining the applicability to
       *your* circumstances (e.g., locksmith, full or part-time), repo
       worker, building maintenance worker, ...
  4. Where can I get the [44]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?
       The author of the [45]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks", "Ted the
       Tool", has posted a PostScript(TM) version of the Guide which can
       be retrieved via ftp from:
       You will need a PostScript printer or previewer to view this file.
       Dave Ferret <ferret@works.uucp> scanned/typed in a version of the
       Guide, it is a file of the text of the Guide and a collection of
       GIFs of the diagrams. This can be found in ZIP and tar format in:
       A Web version can be found at [46]The Document Which Was Formerly
       Called the MIT Guide
       Mattias Wingstedt <> has converted the Guide to
       HTML and made it available on the Web at
       Ken Waldron <> has converted the Guide to MS
       Word format and it can be retrieved via ftp from:
       Since this is a zipped file, you will need to set ftp to binary
       mode and then unzip it after retrieving it. You may want to start
       by retrieving the small mitguideMSE.README file first.
  4b. I can't print the Guide!
       Try deleting the two lines that read:
       statusdict /lettertray known {statusdict begin lettertray end} if
  5. What books can I get on locksmithing?
       Bill Phillips has written a number of locksmithing books. For the
       beginning or aspiring locksmith here is an excellent and practical
       introduction and overview:
       McGraw-Hill 2000 ISBN 0-07-134436-5
       paperbound 7 1/2" x 9", 550 pages, $34.95
       An excellent encyclopedic reference:
       The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 4th ed.
       McGraw-Hill, Inc. 1995 ISBN 0-07-049866-0 $24.95 (Paper) USA
       and another one:
       Professional Locksmithing Techniques, 2nd Edition
       TAB Books/McGraw-Hill 1996
       ISBN 0-07-049867-9 (Paper) $36.95 (Paper)
       also many people think highly of:
       Eddie The Wire: How to Make Your Own Professional Lock Tools
       "Eddie The Wire" Loompanics Unlimited
       ISBN 0-685-39143-4 4 Volumes $20
       Your local book store should be able to order these for you. You
       can find other titles under "Locksmithing" in the Books In Print
       Subject Index, which any decent bookstore should have. Also see
       the Appendix.
  6. What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?
       A "pick gun" is a manual or powered device that uses a vibrating
       pin to try to bounce the pin tumblers so there are spaces at the
       shear line so that the plug can rotate. Some kind of turning
       pressure is also needed - either during or a split second after
       the click. The MIT Guide has some discussion of this. Pick guns
       are not a panacea, and aren't always effective although some
       people find them to work extremely well. The net seems to feel
       that these are no substitute for a little skill with a pick and
       learning how locks work. The electrically powered ones are
       considerably more expensive, and many question whether they are
       worth the cost. Pick guns should not be used on wafer tumbler
       locks as they will not pick the lock and can damage the wafers and
       The following "ascii art" may make this easier to understand:

                  /   <-- Spring, pushes pins down.
         ------- | | -------   <-- Shear line, where the
                 |_|               plug meets the cylinder.
                 | |

                  ^   <-- Keyway
            Pick gun delivers
            sharp blow to bottom

With luck, right after the gun delivers its blow:

                 | |  <-- Top pin thrown up by blow.

          --------------------   <-- Shear line, where the
                                     plug meets the cylinder.
                 | |  <-- Bottom pin stays in place.

Three "pick gun" type implements described in _PICK GUNS Lock Picking
for Spies, Cops and Locksmiths_ by John Minnery:

The simple clicker, made from a metal clothes hanger:

                       Thumb presses here,
                       then releases with a snap.
         / _____                |   |
        / /     \               |   |
        | |     |               |   |              <--- Pins go here, where
        \ \-----/---------------|---------------        they will receive
         \_____/                \   /     ^             the force of the
                                 \_/      |             "click".
            ^                             |
            |                     ^  Flatten needle with hammer,
            |                     |  shorten height with file.
     Wrap around something        |  This part goes into
     like a broom handle.         |  the lock under the pins.
                            This part imparts
                            force to the needle
                            which imparts force
                            to the pins.

Clothespin Clicker:
      \                  _  --------------| <-- Thin strip of metal placed
       -----------/-\___/ \_|                   in groove cut in top of
             -----\-/   \_/ |                   clothespin.

          Lower part shortened to make operation easier.
          Finger pulls up here, and then releases.  Force
          is transfered to needle, and then pins.

Spring Pick Gun:

      ____________________     __
     /                    \   /  \
     |                     | /   |
     |                     | |   |
     |                     | |   |
     \__                   | |   |                   Needle.  This part
        \       __________ | |  _______________ <--  transfers force to
        |      /           | |   |                   pins.  Hammer thin,
        |      |           \_| _/                    and file down height.
        |      |             |
        |      |             |  <-- Trigger.  Forefinger pulls here, and
        |      |             |    releases with a snap.
        |      |             \
        |      |
        |  __  |
        | /  \ |
        |\    ||  <-- Wrap around something
        \_\___/|      like a broom handle.

  7. How do I open a Kryptonite lock?

    Easiest: If you registered your lock, call or write Kryptonite
    for a new key.  Or call a local locksmith, they should be able to
    pick and re-key the lock for you.

    Easy:  Get a car jack and jack it apart.  Careful, otherwise it is
    very possible that you'll damage the bike.

    Easy:  Use a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool to cut the lock at
    the hole in the shackle (where there is the least to cut.)

    Harder: If it doesn't have the newer brass jacket, peel back
    the plastic coating on the key end, drill out the pin that
    holds in the cylinder, remove the cylinder, open.

    Hardest: Chill the metal of the "U" with liquid Nitrogen or
    Freon, smash with hammer.  While this is a "well known" method,
    it may be an urban legend.

  8. Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?

Stan Schwarz <> writes:

     I used to have a "Club", purchased on the recommendation of a
     coworker. The first time I tried picking it, it took me
     approximately 30 seconds, using the cap of a Papermate Flexgrip pen
     for tension, and a bent jumbo paperclip to rake the pins. With
     practice, I was able to reliably pick every "Club" I encountered in
     5-30 seconds using these tools.

  However, it doesn't really matter, no car thief is going to pick it,
they are going to cut the soft plastic steering wheel with a hacksaw
or bolt cutters and slip the Club off.

  It has also been claimed that the Club can be broken if you grab it
with both hands, put your feet on the dashboard, and push with your
legs and pull with your arms as hard as you can.  Be sure to wear

  The Club is useful as a deterrent, a car thief may pass over your
car for something easier.  But if a thief wants your car, the Club
will not stop him.  An alarm with an ignition kill and a theft
recovery system like LoJack is a better, but more expensive, option.

  9. How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?

  Some locksmiths will take the Nike approach and "Just Do It".  Some
will even stamp _"DO NOT DUPLICATE"_ on the copy for
you.  If that doesn't work, label the key by sticking some tape on the
_"DO NOT DUPLICATE"_ stamp and try again.  Many
locksmiths aren't 'fooled' by the tape, but many key-cutting clerks
don't care.

  10. Do Skeleton Keys Exists?

  "Skeleton Keys" are keys ground to avoid the wards in warded locks.
There is no analog with modern pin tumbler locks.  Master keys may
open a large set of locks, but this is designed in when the locks are
'pinned' with master pins.

  11. Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks and other
  security enhancements for my home?

   Why not?  If you are installing locks, the better quality ones are
not much more expensive, and are physically more secure (e.g., have
hardened inserts to protect against drilling.)  However, note that
protection against picking doesn't add a large amount to your security
since burglars almost always go the brute force route.  Regardless,
you should have a deadbolt, and check your window security.

  An excellent project is to do a security survey of your own
premises.  Look at the entire problem - consider lighting and visibility,
as well as the locks, doors and windows.  Ask your insurance agent, you
may be eligible for a premium reduction if you make a few changes in
your home such as a) adding deadbolt locks, and  b) installing smoke
detectors and fire extinguishers.

  12. What should I do after I read a book?

  After some reading, then the next thing is some experience.  Go to
K-Mart, buy a deadbolt lock for around $10, and take the entire thing
apart (you'll need tools like screwdrivers, and perhaps a pair of
pliers) to see how a pin tumbler lock works.  K-Mart carries a clone
of the Kwikset deadbolt which is made to be very easy to take apart.
(Key-in-knob locksets are both more expensive and harder to take

  You then can practice picking this lock by leaving out all but one
stack of pins.  This will be exceedingly easy to pick, and will mostly
provide experience in manipulating the pick and tension wrench.  Then
put in one more pin stack and try again - feeling when one stack is
picked and the plug rotates minutely - so little that it is felt rather
than seen.  Then when the second one is picked that will let the plug
move, unlocking the lock.  Keep on adding stacks.  Try picking with the
curved finger (or feeler) pick, and also raking.

  As you get involved in doing some elementary locksmithing, also learn
about the quality of hardware and how to pick appropriate hardware for
the projected use.  There is a quality grade based on testing by ANSI
(the American National Standards Institute) which give an indication of
the resistance of a lockset to wear and unauthorized entry.

          + Grade 1 - commercial quality for heavy use
          + Grade 2 - heavier residential use and light commercial use
          + Grade 3 - light residential use (widely used for residential
            use where cost is the primary consideration, most locksmiths
            would recommend Grade 2 as a minimum.

  There are also many people on the net who are willing to help in
various areas.  Posting a question on alt.locksmithing can help find
someone.  One person who is willing to offer free advice about
old doors and door locks is Dr. Dorlock ( who tells us,
"My only interest is saving old doors from "butchery" by professionals
who do not know new solutions to old problems."  Write him or check his
[48]web page.
(Don't write to him about lockpicking.)

  13. How do I continue learning about locksmithing?

  There are several things you can do to continue learning more about
locks and locksmithing.  One, of course, is to subscribe to a
locksmithing magazine.  Some years ago I compared the National
Locksmith to the Locksmith Ledger and felt that the latter was a bit
better on technical info.  Call yourself a Student Locksmith, or
perhaps a Security Consultant (surely you have given some advice to
*somebody*!).  Also read The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 4th
ed. by Bill Phillips which was mentioned above.

  Lock companies are starting to use the Internet to distribute
information.  See the on-line resources section below for many lock
related web sites.

  But all this reading can help only so much, so you have to continue
buying various types of locks, taking them apart, figuring out
everything about them, and installing, removing, modifying them.
Buy some key blanks, make up a master key scheme, and file the keys
to fit (assuming you don't have a key machine yet) - filing may
take a few minutes, but it does work.  Maybe buy a re-keying kit
(kit of different size pins, with a plug follower) and do some
re-keying for your family or friends (the same size pins fit, I
think, the familiar Kwikset and Schlage pin tumbler locks) so that
their deadbolts can be opened with their normal front door key.
(Hint - when disassembling a lock you may want to do it inside a
transparent plastic bag.  Then the small pieces and springs will be
trapped and won't go flying across the room, leaving you with a sad look
on your face.)  (A follower is used to push the plug out, when the pins
are at the shear line, therefore keeping the top pins and springs in
place.  Then the rekeyed plug is used to push out the follower, again
keeping the top pins and springs in place.  Similarly the follower can
be used when loading new springs and top pins, keeping the loaded ones
in place.)

Or buy a deadbolt installation kit (hole saw plus template - I
think that Black and Decker makes a good inexpensive one, available
at better building supply places) and put in a few deadbolts for
your family and friends - charging them only for the materials plus
a couple of bucks towards the installation kit - and re-key the
deadbolt for them, too.

  Buy or make a pick set, and use your practice locks to practice
picking.  Do you have a good locksmith supply catalog?  If not, give a
call to a local supplier.  Help people at work
who have been locked out of their desks or filing cabinets.  Desks
usually have wafer tumbler locks which are *much* easier to pick than
pin tumbler locks.  Filing cabinets are not as easy to pick, but are
pickable (actually some are very easy to pick - they vary greatly) and
also can be opened by pushing a flexible plastic ruler between the
side of the sliding drawer and the cabinet body - carefully inspect some
working cabinets to see what I'm talking about.

  13a. How do I learn the locksmithing trade?

Joe Kesselman posted this advice:

     The mail-order courses will teach you the very basics -- but that's
     just a starting point. Their main value is in teaching you what
     questions to ask and some terminology so you can go on to learn
     more from other sources. You _can_ get started this way, but it
     takes determination and considerable additional effort. As with any
     trade, there's a lot of detail to learn and skills that come only
     with practice.
     If you're planning to apprentice to an established locksmith (not
     at all a bad idea) you might want to start by asking around and
     determining whether the folks in your area would be more likely to
     give you a chance after you've taken one of these courses. Some
     consider the course a helpful bootstrap, some don't. In my area,
     shops seem to be looking for folks who are willing to take on the
     automotive work so the principals can spend their time doing more
     interesting (and lucrative) stuff, and I'm not convinced the
     learn-at-home classes teach much that's useful about this corner of
     the field.

Joe also points out that locksmithing associations, shows and
journals are valuable sources of continuing education.

The National Locksmith (a monthly trade journal) requires some form of
affiliation with the locksmithing/security industry for subscription or
for purchase of their training manuals - here's the contact info:

The National Locksmith Magazine
Marc Goldberg, Publisher
They also sell a variety of books and software.
1533 Burgundy Pky
Streamwood, IL 60107

Jay Hennigan added:

     ... However, the best way to really learn the trade is by working
     in a real lock shop for a period of time. There are "tricks of the
     trade" that can only be learned in such an environment, and this
     trade tends to be more secretive than most, due to the (IMHO
     misguided) belief in "security through obscurity".

Foley-Belsaw, and perhaps other correspondence schools, will often send
out a series of offers with lower and lower prices if you wait after you
first ask and get their initial (highest) price.  People report that the
F-B price eventually goes down to $499, and one person has said $399.

6301 Equitable Rd.,Kansas City,MO,64120

Another mass market correspondence school is NRI Schools 4401
Connecticut Ave, NW, Washington, DC 20008-2323, 1-800-321-4634 Ext.
3650 202-244-1600 Fax:202-244-2047

Some more schools - (Res. means a residential program, Cor. means
correspondence)  Thanks to Marc
Goldberg of THE NATIONAL LOCKSMITH for compiling this list.  (See
elsewhere in this FAQ for his Web site, etc.)

Acme School of Locksmithing 11350 S. Harlem,Worth,IL,60482
708-361-3750 Fax:,708-448-9306(Res.)

California Institute of Locksmithing 14721 Oxnard St. Van Nuys,CA,91411

[49] College of Security Technology & Management
12800 South U.S. 71,Grandview,MO,60430 816-765-5551 Fax:816-765-1777

Colorado Lks. College Inc. 4991 W. 80th Ave. Unit 103A,Westminster,CO,80030

Golden Gate School of Lock Technology 3722 San Pablo Ave.,Oakland,CA,94608

[50] Granton Institute of Technology
263 Adelaide St. West,Toronto  Ont.,CANADA,M5H1Y3
416-977-3929 Fax:416-977-5612 INFO@GRANTONINSTITUTE.COM

Locksmith School (Res.) 3901 S. Meridian St.,Indianapolis,IN,46217
317-632-3979 Fax:17-784-2945

Locksmithing Institute of America 226 Fairfield Rd.,Fairfield,NJ,07004
(not at that address - probably defunct)

[51] LTC Training Center (Cor.) P.O. Box 3583,Davenport,IA,52808-3583
800-358-9393 319-322-6669 Fax:319-324-7938

Messick Vo/Tech Center (Res.) 703 South Greer,Memphis,TN,38111
901-325-4840 Fax:901-325-4843

North Bennett Street School 39 North Bennett St.,Boston,MA,02113-1998
617-227-0155 Fax:617-227-9292

[52] Pine Technical College (Res.,Web) 1000 4th St.,Pine City,MN,55063
800-521-7463 320-629-6764 320-629-7603 HECKMAN@PTC.TEC.MN.US

Professional Career Development Institute 3957 Parkway Lane,Norcross,GA,30092

Red Deer College Box 5005,Red Deer  AB,Canada,T4N 5H5
403-342-3450 Fax:403-342-3576 SHAUN.LOVELL@RDC.AB.CA

[53] School of Lock Technology (Res.) 1049 Island Ave.,San Diego,CA,92101
619-234-4512619-234-5937 GRAH@GRAHSECURITY.COM

School of Lock Technology -  Orange (Res.) 302 W. Katella Ave.,Orange,CA,92667
714-633-1366 Fax: 714-633-0199

School of Lock Technology-Austin 509 Rio Grande St.,Austin,TX,78701
888-511-8874 512-473-8874 Fax:512-472-4838 OCOTHRON@AOL.COM

Southern Locksmith Training Institute 1387 Airline Drive,Bossier City,LA,71112
318-227-9458 318-746-1734

The Academy of Locksmithing 2220 Midland Ave. Unit 106,Scarborough
Ont.,Canada,M1P 3E6 888-272-8265 416-321-2220 Fax:416-321-5115 TAOL@PW.CA

Universal School of Master Locksmithing (Res., Cor.)
3201 Fulton Ave.,Sacramento,CA,95821 916-482-4216 Fax:916-485-9385

[54]Sully Tools, Inc. auto entry tools
and Automotive Lock Institute car entry seminars

A list of [55]"Locksmithing
schools around the world" is at a site giving many locksmith links.

There is a general feeling that most of the correspondence courses give
limited and dated information which isn't sufficient to become a
locksmith, and that taking such a course may not even be an advantage in
getting a job in a real lock shop.  However there are some courses (both
residential and correspondence) which have better reputations.  One such
school is:

5058 Danville Rd.  Nicholasville, KY 40356

(606) 885-6041 800-654-0637 Fax:606-887-0810 EDUCATION@LOCKMASTERS.COM

[57]American Security Distribution
has a Certified Locksmith Training Program.

[58]Tech-Train Productions
Tools and Instruction for Professional Locksmiths

[59]National Auto Lock Service auto
locksmithing books and

Some (not all) states in the US have licensing requirements.  The
[61]California Dept. of Consumer Affairs lists the requirements and licenses 
locksmiths.  CA requires not only the locksmith license (issued by the Bureau 
of Security and Investigative Services, but also a Contractors License
(unless you only do small jobs,) category C-28 Locks and Security
Hardware - with tests on trade skills and law/business required.

The ALOA provides information on [62]Getting Started in Locksmithing

Someone starting up may have trouble in judging the time various tasks
take, and hence in quoting a price.  A "Flat Rate Manual", even a simple
one, can be a big help.  Joe points out, "It's a good tool for
understanding the tradeoffs in your price structure."  It can be used as
a starting point, and then you can adjust prices as you see fit.

  13b. How do I learn more about Master Keying?

Here are some references:

The Manual of Master Keying, by G.L. Finch available from The National
Locksmith and from his son.

Gerry Finch was highly regarded as a technical writer on locksmithing.

Info, Sales & Support:

Fundamentals of Master Keying, by Jerome Andrews available from ALOA

Master Keying by the Numbers, by Billy Edwards available from Security

  14. How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?

        Hobbit has written an excellent discussion on workings of
Simplex locks.  Hobbit left FTP Software and his FTP archive is
currently unavailable.  However we have [63]a copy available.

  15. Is there a formula that can find the combination of a Master Lock?

        Not as far as anyone knows.  I.e., the combination is not derived
from the serial number.  You can buy code books with which
will tell you the combination for a given serial number, but these are
big rather expensive books that list (nearly) every lock.

     However it may be possible to obtain the combination from [64]Master Lock.

Additionally, John F. Bousquet <>writes:

     There is another way. There is a shirt picket sized formula book.
     From the serial number you determine which of several progressions
     were used by the factory. Then a guide number is found from the
     table to divide into the serial number and a remainder is found.
     This is referenced on a page in the guide. The last digit is
     manipulated and that narrows it down to about 5 possibilities. I
     bought one of these 20 page pocket Try out combination finders and
     never wound up using it. Now I just call it up on notebook computer.

An [65]inside view of a Master-type lock shows how it works.

  16. Can the combination of a Master Lock be found though manipulation?

Recently a method of finding the combination of a Master Lock has been
presented on alt.locksmithing.  It seems there is a formula that
relates the numbers in a combination to each other.  The first and
last digit of any combination will both have the same remainder when
divided by 4, and the second digit's remainder when divided by 4 will
be - or + 2 from the first and third's remainder. For example, if you
knew the last digit of the combination was 5, the first digit could be
any digit that had a remainder of 1 when divided by 4 and the second
number any digit with a remainder of 3 when divided by 4.  This means
given one number in the combination, there are only ten numbers that
can be in each of the other two positions, and thus only 100 possible
combinations given one number in the combination.

This "modulus 4" constraint does not appear to apply to "current"
production locks (1999?-).

And it turns out there is an easy way to find the last digit of the
combination.  On older Master Locks, ones where the arrow at the top
is raised, simply pull on the shackle and turn the dial until it
catches, that's the third number in the combination.  On news locks
with the recessed arrow, there are twelve places the dial will catch
if you turn it while pulling on the shackle.  Seven of these will
catch between two numbers, ignore these, and find the the five that
catch on a number.  Four of these will end in the same digit, i.e, 1,
11, 21, and 31, the fifth end with a different digit, and the is the
third number in the combination.

This means that given the knowledge, time, and patience, anyone can
find the combination and open your lock.  But then so can anyone with
a pair of bolt cutters, a hacksaw, or maybe even a hammer.  These are
three (US) dollar locks.  They have many useful applications, but they
are not high security locks.  Plan your usage accordingly.

_PLEASE_ don't post a question on alt.locksmithing
giving a serial number and asking for the combination for that
lock.  Yes - there are books relating the two - but very few people
will take you at your word that it is your own lock.  Instead the
most likely result is the start of a flame war!

  17. What is the "shear line"?

  Visualize a door lock - there is a fixed block (the lock body or
cylinder) of metal with a cylindrical hole in it - the axis of this
hole is horizontal.  It is filled with a "plug" which is the part
which turns with your key - and something attached to the rear of
the plug actuates the latch/bolt when you turn the plug with the
key.  There are some small vertical holes drilled in both the plug
and the fixed block so they match up - and they are in a straight
line which is the same line as the key.  Each hole (pin chamber)
is filled with (at least) two pins (small cylindrical pieces of
metal - except that the portion of the bottom pin which touches
the key is pointed) but the pins are of varying length, and there
is a spring at the top of the chamber so that the pins are pushed
away by the spring.  The bottom pin is short enough so that it will
be pushed completely down within the plug and the top pin (imagining
right now there are just two pins - extra ones are only used for
master keying) goes from inside the top block to inside the plug.
Now the plug can't turn, because in each pin chamber there will be
a pin blocking the "shear" line - the line where the pin chamber
would "shear" apart when the plug turned.

  You put your key in - and the different heights on the key are
made to "complement" the different lengths of the bottom pin so
that all of the bottom pins are raised up just to the "shear line"
between the plug and the fixed block part of the lock.  Then
the key can turn the plug around its axis and actuate whatever
internal mechanisms are inside.

  [66]Picking a lock is a matter of raising the pins to the shear line, but
without the key.

  18. What is "impressioning"?

Impressioning is a technique for opening a lock by making a key out of
a key blank for the lock.  The blank is filed to fit; the place and
amount of filing depends upon small marks left on the key blank by the
pin tumblers.  The procedure starts with smoothing the key blank with
fine abrasive paper or a very fine file to remove any marks or
scratches and to leave a surface which will show the marks.  The key
blank is then inserted into the lock and the blank twisted from side to
side and rocked up and down.  The blank is removed and inspected for
marks and a shallow cut made with a file on the mark closest to the tip
of the blank, or on the most prominent mark.  (There are several systems
for determining which mark should be cut and for the correct way to
twist and rock.)

Repeat this for the same position until the tumbler doesn't leave any
mark on the blank and then move to the next pin.  When the last cut is
made the lock should open with the newly cut key - assuming that the
interpretation of the marks and the cutting has been done right.

The advantage of impressioning for opening a lock is that it creates a
key for that lock.  But the process is slow and requires a fair amount
of skill.  With expert skill levels, the process is considerably
faster.  There are a number of special pliers made to hold the blank
and make it easier to give the proper twist with rocking that will mark
the blank.  The marks on the blank are difficult to see and you must
start with a blank that fits the lock.  (Or several blanks, as this
doesn't always work the first time.)  Impressioning may not be as quick
and easy as picking the lock.  Picking a lock often leaves tell-tale
scratches on the tumblers and plug that won't happen with

A manual on impressioning by Mark Wanlass is available in the ftp archives
of -
    A web version is available at:

  19. What is a code? What is a codebook?

Ever see a lock on a desk, filling cabinet, or a key with a number
stamped on it like FR332, 2H5212, or 61624?  Those are called codes.
They tell locksmiths exactly how to cut a key to fit the lock.  There
are three types of codes.

There are direct digit codes.  Each digit corresponds to each cut on
the key, the value of each digit tell how deep to make the cut.
Schlage prints the code for the key directly on the key. These codes
are usually long, each pin needs its own digit.

The second type in which each digit does not directly correspond to
the depth, but there is a pattern between the code and the key.  Often
mathematical tricks are used (for example you must subtract 435 from the
code, then cut the key).

The last type require a locksmith to have a codebook.  There is no
pattern to the cuts on the keys.  The Reed Codebooks are one of the
most common.  There are 14 general volumes (cars, cabinet, suit
cases, door locks) and 5 padlock volumes.  Each volume is about 600
pages long.  Several manufactures now selling computer programs that
contain all this information.  The software is often copy-protected.

Here's information on several products - all have demo disks.  Note that
features differ, and so different programs may appeal to different users.
          + Blackhawk Products: DOS version $399, Windows version $479,
            copy-protected by use of a hardware key.
               o Blackhawk has a full [67]code program on the Internet.
                 Passwords are provided by subscription. There is a
                 fully-working demo, and some other information.
          + HPC: DOS version phased out; Windows version now being sold.
            Suggested list price $695. Disk-based copy protection on the
            DOS version. (Windows version - ?)
          + Locksmith Ledger: DOS version only, $699.95. No copy
          + Genericode - "Reeds Codes" on disk.
          + Treskat: DOS version only, $498 or less. Disk-based copy
            protection. (There have been many complaints on the net about
            Treskat's customer service, especially when a customer calls
            about problems with the copy protection.)

  20. How do I open a car door with a Slim Jim?

Besides picking the lock, one can open a car door with a wire coat
hanger.  Open the coat hanger by unbending the wire, leaving a
small loop at one end.  Insert the looped end of the wire hanger
between the rubber weather stripping and a side window.  Hook the
looped end of the wire around the button of the door lock and pull
it up to the open position.  Many lock buttons are without a lip,
an anti-theft measure, so that the wire coat hanger slides off
without lifting it.  One can also try to snag the door handle and
pull it open.

The Slim Jim, a thin strip of metal with a notch cut at the bottom
side, slides down the passenger window into the door.  The notch
tries to catch a rod running inside the door that connects the lock
and the lock buttons.  Pulling on this rod pops the lock into the
open position.  Many modern cars have the rod shielded from this
access.  Most cars today have many wires running through
the doors to control such things as power windows, power locks,
heated side view mirrors, lighted key ways, and burglar alarms.
Some newer cars have airbags in the doors - setting them off is a very
dangerous and expensive mistake!  The Slim Jim can snag one of these,
or a mechanical part and cause damage.  Most locksmiths advise against
using a Slim Jim except on old cars.  The pros often use wedges,
lights and manuals of parts locations to avoid damage and increase
their success rate.

  21. What is a jiggler key?

A thin piece of metal cut in the general shape of a key, the jiggler
slips into the keyway of many locks and most car locks.  The jigglers
in the set come with a variety of general cuts that vaguely resemble
cuts on keys.  A jiggler is slipped into the lock and moved around,
much as using a rake type pick, until the lock opens.  If one jiggler
does not work then the next one in the set is tried.  Probability of
success depends on the skill of the user and on luck.

  22. Is there an ethical dimension to locksmithing?

Yes.  Locksmithing is an old craft, and there is a strong tradition of
ethical responsibility.  A trainee (apprentice) learned about locks
and security, and was supposed to have the personal integrity to
avoid abusing that knowledge.  This "do no harm" concept has been
incorporated into the 'hacker ethic' which is found at MIT (in the
"hacking community") and elsewhere.

  23. I have a safe without the combination - how do I open it?

"Either throw the safe away, or pay a safe expert to open it, or
perhaps work out a trade with the safeman:  he opens it, you get the
contents, and he gets the safe.  Please try and use a tiny bit of
common sense:  if anyone could get a quick and easy way to open your
safe by posting to alt.locksmithing, your safe wouldn't be worth a damn,
would it?"

A safe expert (which usually means a member of SAVTA) usually can open a
safe by either "manipulation" or drilling to access the lock's internals
and then working the lock.
[68]Drilling can be repaired and leave the safe in excellent condition.

  23a. How do I change the combination of a safe?

The better safe locks can be changed to a new combination.
This involves insertion of a "change key" into the back of the
combination lock, and dialling the new combination.  Usually the new
combination is dialled using a "change index" rather than the usual
"opening index" (usually located at 12 o'clock.)  There are restrictions
on choice of the numbers - so be sure to find out the details before
doing this yourself.  Carefully review the instruction sheet for the lock
before doing this.

WARNING: It is hard to open a safe which has been set to an unknown
combination or one which doesn't work.  So be sure to exercise the new
combination several times with the door open before closing the door and
locking the safe.

  24. How do I disassemble a Kwikset key-in-knob entry set?

0) Open the door. (If you can't, call a locksmith!)

1) Dismount outer knob from door (the screws are on the indoor side.)

2) Depress spring retainer and remove spindle.

3) Reach in through spindle opening and gently release spring.
retainers by pushing towards center. This can be done -- VERY
awkwardly -- with a pair of narrow screwdrivers. Or you can get a
Kwikset Removal Tool (inexpensive), which is just a short piece of
sheet steel of the correct width with a "U" chomped into the end.
The points of the U engage the tips of the retainers and move them
automagically.  (see drawing and measurements below)
4) Cylinder will pop out of knob. Rekey normally.

5) When done, snap everything back together and reinstall.

Kwikset cylinder removal tool - cut from a piece of metal

   \                                    |

Sheet-metal stock thickness: approx 1/16th inch.

Width (top to bottom in illustration): approx 7/16ths inch

Length (left to right in illustration): Whatever works;
        official version is about 6 inches

Cutout end _broadens_ slightly, to approx 15/32nds inch

Notch in end is somewhere between semicircular and V (parabolic?)
and about 1/8 inch deep from points to bottom of curve.
Corners wind up being at about 40 degrees between
outside and inside edge, maybe a bit less.

Not very critical. The important thing is that there be two points
at about the right spacing, with about the right inward slope, to
engage and move the retainers towards the center.

If you need more detail than that, you should probably leave this
task to someone who has done it before, or at least get them to
give you a hands-on lesson. The only part that isn't Trivially
Obvious is the operation of the retainers, and the above should
be sufficient info for you to figure that out.

  25. Why are posts of binaries (pictures) against the consensus rules of this

This has been discussed a number of times in the past.  The consensus of
this agrees with usenet Nettiquette (note that
alt.locksmithing is part of usenet) that the disadvantages of
including binaries in a text outweigh the advantages.

Some of the disadvantages are:
          + A huge post causes other posts to expire faster on the
          + A huge post seriously impacts download time for those of us
            who do bulk-downloads to minimize our connect-time costs.
          + A huge post impacts those of us (and there still are some)
            whose connect costs are by-the-byte.

  The "Nettiquette" docs are easily found in news.announce.newusers and
among those there is one titled: "How to find the right place to post
(FAQ)"  which has a section "Binaries (images, executables, sounds,
etc.)" dealing with this exact question.  It says that there are
"binaries" and they "are the only places where you should
ever post a file that is not directly human-readable, such as pictures,
software, or even Microsoft Word files (which are not readable unless you
have a copy of Microsoft Word on your computer.)"

  The alternative which has met with the most approval is to put a
picture on a Web page and post the URL in your alt.locksmithing post.
[70]PhotoPoint is a site which offers
free service for this purpose.  Another alternative is to post the binary
to or some other binary and mention that.

  26. Should my business be a shop or a mobile unit (truck)?

When you reach the point of opening your own locksmith business (after you 
have the locksmithing skills and business skills) this is an important decision.

There are some kinds of merchandise - safes, high-end
architectural locksets, and so on - where a customer really wants to
come in and "kick the tires" for a while. There are others which are
"impulse sale" items - stuff you wouldn't carry on a service call but
which they'd be interested in if they saw it on a display rack - or
which are just too big to haul around. And there are some items, and
accounts, where the customer really wants to know that you have a _Fixed
Address_, for various reasons; like it or not, a mobile shop is often
thought of as a transient rather than a Trustworthy Member of The Local
Business Community.

If you open a shop and just sell the same products and services you
would out of your trunk, it probably won't pay. If you can use it to
make a substantial amout of sales you wouldn't otherwise get, it
probably will.

Think about your local market, think about your possible shop locations,
think about whether you can get that leverage and whether you're willing
to make the investment in time, stock and personnel to make it pay off.

  Other online locksmithing related resources:

          + [71]Graham Pulford's "Catalogue of High Security Locks"
          + [72]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks" Web page.
          + [73]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks" in Postscript.
          + [74]Hobbit's Simplex lock description
          + [75]Steve Haehnichen's pick images
          + [76]Medeco High Security Locks, Inc.
          + [77]Loompanics Unlimited Book Catalog
          + [78]Paladin Press catalog
          + [79]The National Locksmith trade magazine.
          + [80]South Carolina Locksmith Association
          + [81]Gardall Safe Corporation
          + [82]California state law regulating locksmiths - select "Business
            and Professions Code" and put "locksmith" in the search box.
          + [83]Greater Philadelphia Locksmith Association
          + [84]New York Association of In-house Locksmiths, Inc. also
            has Job Listings
          + [85]Locksmith Publishing Corp. Locksmith Ledger, a trade magazine
          + [86]Lock-Man Locksmith
          + [87]The Keyless Lock Store
          + [88]Locksmith Business Community
          + [89]Various locksmithing information. The
            Directory includes images of pages from the Septon catalog.
          + [90]HPC, Inc.Designer and manufacturer of Locksmithing Equipment.
          + [91]Mas-Hamilton Group
          + [92]Institutional Locksmiths' Association
          + [93]BiLock high security locking systems
          + [94]Westthorn House software for the professional locksmith
          + [95]Locksoft software
          + [96]Master Lock Co.
          + [97]Ilco Unican A major manufacturer of locking products, etc.
          + [98]A French language site with a section on [99]Picard locks
          + [101]JB's Locksmith Central with many links.
          + [102]Gil-Ray Tools Inc. Key Machine Cutter Sharpening & Sales Center
          + [103]Lockpicking Infopaedia
          + [104]Safe and Lock Technicians Safe & Vault Opening and Servicing
          + Scott Berg's [105]Vault Door Photos
          + [106]V.A.F. Verband fur Aufsperrtechnik und Fahrzeugoffnung
            e. V. i. G. - a German language site for an association for
            lock-picking and car-opening techniques
          + [107]On-line shop in German
          + [108]Forum and Newsletter in German
          + [109]Sportenthusiasts of Lockpicking - Germany
          + [110]Sportsfreunde der Sperrtechnik Deutschland e.V. - Germany
          + [111]Internet Security Reference
          + [112]Dafor Oy company
          + [113]Tann Canada high quality safes
          + [114]Gunnebo AB An international group of companies "focused
            on security and safety". Includes Tann Canada, Rosengrens,
            Fichet-Bauche, etc.
          + [115]specialty locksmith supply Curtis Clippers new and used,
            and much more (for locksmiths and security professionals only)
          + [116]Framon Manufacturing key machines and locksmithing tools
          + [117]Locksmith, Lee Dobbs Locksmith, Security Store Homeinfo
            on auto transponder keys
          + [118]Paper Locksmith (paper models of 3 locks! - a bicycle
            chain combination lock, a warded lock, and a disk tumbler
            lock with two tumblers)
          + [119]A-1 Lock and Safe, Knoxville, TN security, safes, locks,
            alarm systems
          + [120]IAHSSP Home Safety and Security.
          + [121]Accu-Lock, Inc. offers re-conditioned KEYCARD locks, and
            repairs Ilco locks.
          + [122]BEST Access Systems
          + [123]Security Solutions Manufacturer of U-Change rekayables
            and supplier for Detex and others.
          + [124]Tolkey Products Auto related locksmithing - incl. tryout keys
          + [125]Evva - security locks
          + [126]Sargent and Greenleaf Lock Manufacturer
          + [127]AMSEC Manufacturer of Safes
          + [128]Abloy
          + [129]iHerculeez Safes wholesale to locksmiths
          + [130]High Tech Tools Car opening tools for the locksmith.
          + [131]Lock Picking links
          + [132]Used Safes buy/sell
          + [133]Lockcollectors Review
          + [134]A Bank Vault at the Federal Reserve Bank of Cleveland
          + [135]Lock codes for GM 2000 models and Master combination
            padlock series 900001-921500 - restricted
          + [136]Blackhawk Products "Software that Works for Locksmiths"
          + [137] "a full line of locksmith tools and lock
            picking tools"
          + [138]Highpower Security Products Electromagnetic Lock and
            Access Controls
          + [139]AltSecurityAlarms electronic security
          + [140]Lock Shop Software SuperKey 2000 - masterkeying
          + [141]Auto Transponders and Security
          + [142]Blue Dot Locks by WebLockSmith and Dallas Semiconductor

    Locksmith fora

          + [143]Clearstar Security Network By subscription only,
            currently $30/yr. Requires user name/password which can be
            requested from the site.
          + [144]The National Locksmith No fee. Requires user
            name/password which can be requested from the site.
          + [145]The Associated Locksmiths of America (ALOA) Oriented to
            ALOA members, with some information for the public and for
            prospective members.
          + [146] No fee. Requires user name/password which
            can be requested from the site.
          + [147]Security Information Management Online Network (SIMON)
            No fee. Open forum.
          + [148]Security Safe New and Used Safes, Service (northern Calif.)
          + [149]Sieveking Products Company Locksmith tools and books
          + [150]Lockpicking Infopaedia
          + [151]Electromagnetic Locks and Strikes
          + [152]Jet Hardware - keys, etc.
          + [153]Marray Enterprises Electrified lock sets, power transfer
            hinges, etc.
          + [154]Georgia Safe and Lock Companyesp. see the FAQ


There is also a [155]Dictionary for
Locksmiths being developed by the LIST Council which can be seen at
the Greater Philadelphia Locksmith Association Web site.  The LIST
Council's latest draft of a [156]Glossary is part of
their Dictionary for Locksmiths.

                A key that has not yet been cut to fit a lock.
                A removable cylinder and plug, used in a interchangeable
                core system.
        core key (sometimes control key)
                A key which is used to remove a core.
                The part of the lock in which the the pins are set and
                which contains the plug.
                The notches cut in the key to make it fit a lock.
        follower (plug follower)
                This is a cylindrical object of the same outer diameter
                as the plug (there are various diameters, often about
                1/2") which is used to push out or follow the plug when
                the plug is to be removed. This retains the top pins and
                springs in the lock body.
        key way
                (short answer) The slot into which the key is inserted.
                (long answer) Refers to (a) the size and shape of the
                (cross-section of the) key, and (b) the opening in the
                lock which is shaped to admit the key and to keep out
                most keys of different sizes and shapes. Whether the
                keyway can be patented by the lock manufacturer as a way
                to prevent others from manufacturing compatible key
                blanks and therefore to restrict access is open to
                dispute. Recent court cases make it doubtful that the
                simple design is patentable, but a keyway design which is
                involved in the patented method of operation of a lock
                may have patent protection.
        master key
                A key which opens a group of locks designed to match it.
        pin tumblers
                The pins in the lock which are moved to the shear line by
                the key.
        pin chamber
                the tubular hole in which pins and a spring stay.
                The part of the lock which the key is inserted and is
                rotated by the key.
                A lock part located at the 'side' of the plug and fitting
                into longitudinal grooves in both the plug and the lock
                body. This keeps the plug from turning until the sidebar
                is retracted into the plug. Retraction is blocked until
                the correct key (or picking) moves the pins or other
                tumblers to positions which cease to block the retraction
                or produce some other action allowing the retraction. A
                sidebar can add additional positioning beyond the usual
                "shear line" and so can make picking more difficult. A
                number of locks use a sidebar to increase security.
                GM's Vehicle Anti-Theft System which uses a resistor in
                the key shank in addition to the cuts on the key.
        wafer tumbler
                Used in locks which are less expensive than pin tumbler
                locks. They behave somewhat similarly.
        warded lock
                A lock using wards to keep an incorrect key from entering
                the key hole and turning.


Here are some of the things collected about locations and
availabilities (most are from alt.locksmithing).  We do not endorse
any of these, but feel that you can get information by reading.  As of this
writing Septon and Paolo are the only suppliers we know of that will sell
to overseas customers.

Septon, Inc.    P.O. Box 9, Malden-on-Hudson, NY   12453

(800) 537-8752 voice (914) 246-3416 fax (914) 246-0638 outside North America

Will sell to overseas customers, but requires credit cards and a U.S. $100
minimum order on such sales.

Call for Catalog.

Steve Arnold's Gunroom (URL sells a
variety of pick sets, pick guns, and a small number of books.  They will
handle foreign orders which are paid for by an international money order
in US currency.

Steve Arnold's Gun Room
PO Box 68
Dept. Net
Dexter,OR 97431
541 726-6360
possible e-mail

[157] (
carries auto entry tools, lockpick sets, lockpicking tools and various other
non-locksmithing items. Visa/MC, 30-day satisfaction, low-price guarantee.

Phoenix Systems Inc.    P.O. Box 3339, Evergreen, CO 80439

303-277-0305  [Survivalist Group, although the "Shoot all the Commies
for God" stuff is kept to a minimum.]

Call for Catalog.

Here are a few titles: (with Library of Congress Catalog Number)

- - ----------------------
Title:       Locksmithing
Author:      F.A. Steed
LC Number:   TS 520 S73 1982

Title:       All About Locks and Locksmithing
Author:      Max Alth
LC Number:   TS 520 A37 1972

Title:       Professional Locksmithing Techniques
Author:      Bill Phillips
LC Number    TS 520 P55 1991

See Question 5 for some more book citations.  A source of locksmithing
and general security books is:

P. O. Box 2044
Erie, PA  16512-2044
Ph: (814) 868-0650

Their catalog is free; they stock lots of professional and
hard-to-find material; will sell to overseas customers.

See their [158]Web site.

You can buy books on many topics from
Loompanics Unlimited
Publishers & Sellers of Unusual Books
P.O. Box 1197
Port Townsend, WA 98368
800 380 2230 (for North America only)
(they ship internationally call  360 385 2230)
Fax  360 385 7785

        When they say unusual, they mean it!  Everything from igloo
construction to techniques of execution.  There is a $5 charge for their 
catalog.  ("no longer carried?" means I couldn't find it in their current

An Insider's Guide to How It's Done and How To Prevent It
by B. Andy 1994 88p. This revealing book explains in nontechnical detail how
anyone can bypass a security alarm system in seconds, leaving you and
your loved ones vulnerable to burglary or worse. Industry insider B.
Andy points out the glaring weaknesses of such popular devices as
contact switches, motion detectors, pressure pads and glass-break
sensors, as well as the "ultimate circumvention technique" that will
render even the most sophisticated systems useless. He also gives you a
shocking look inside the security business - how the alarms are
installed, how they're paid for, how they're monitored and how they're
responded to. You may not like what you read. $12.00

#52056 HOW TO OPEN HANDCUFFS WITHOUT KEYS by Desert Publications
(1979 48 pp) This book covers a selection of handcuffs in popular use
today and discusses some of the features with which you should become
familiar. Chapters include: Background on Handcuffs: Identification of
Handcuffs; Materials, Tools & Equipment; Construction of Handcuff
Picks & Shims; Lockpicking Techniques; Handcuff Keys; And more.

by Desert Publications These subjects are covered: The construction and
names of parts; How to determine the combination by using code books;
Reading an open lock; Drilling; Opening using a special fully explained
method of manipulation; and more. $8.95

#52046 PICK GUNS Lock Picking for Spies, Cops and Locksmiths
by John Minnery (1989, 128 pp.) This book gives an overview of the
mechanical principles of pick guns, how they work and how to use them,
and traces the development of the pick gun from its inception to today's
revolutionary devices. Included are the original patents by Epstein,
Segal, Moore, Cooke and others, as well as info on pick guns used by the
FBI and intelligence agencies. Photos depict improvised pick guns
designed by the author out of coat hangers and clothespins.  $14.00

(1974, 42pp) Subjects covered include: Internal construction; How to
disassemble and rekey; How to open by drilling; How to open by picking;
How to open by impressioning; How to make some of the necessary tools;
and more. $9.95

#52057 EXPEDIENT B & E Tactics and Techniques for Bypassing Alarms
and Defeating Locks by Carl Hammer (1992, 216 pp) An
examination of the various types of locks and alarms, instructions for
improvising lock picking tools, plus techniques for breaking into cars,
opening file cabinets and desk drawers, cracking safes and circumventing
various types of alarms and sensors. $20.00

Protecting Your Home, Business, and Car with State-of-the-Art Burglar
Alarms by Steve Hampton (1992, 128 pp) $14.00

Scott French, 1987.  Nearly two full hours of on-site techniques to
get in any building, beat any lock, open any safe, enter any car.
Price: $59.95 (may not be carried?)

Russell III (64pp, 1979).  Written by a private detective for auto
repossessors.  All the standard methods of entering and starting
locked, keyless automobiles are given. Price: $10.95 (may not be carried?)

(110pp, 1990).  Alarms covered include: Magnetic Switches, Window
Foil, Sound and Heat Detectors, Photoelectric Devices, Guard Dogs,
Central Station Systems, Closed-Circuit Television, and more. Price: $14.95

Rapp (149pp, 1989).  This is an investigatory guide and practical
manual designed for the police officer in charge of a burglary
investigation and its follow-up.  Price: $16.95

#52054 TECHNIQUES OF SAFECRACKING by Wayne B. Yeager (92pp, 1990).
Chapters include: Safe Mechanics and Operations, Guessing the
Combination, Manipulation Techniques, Safe Drilling Methods, Punching
and Peeling, Torches Etc., Explosives, Miscellaneous Methods of Safe
Entry, Safe Deposit Boxes, Deterrence and Prevention, and more. Price: $12.95

1990.  Topics include: the Rabbit Tool and Hydra force door openers,
the Omni Force jam spreader, the best exothermic lance in the world,
two tools that open almost any auto in America, electronic locksmiths,
rippers and pullers, shove knives and re-lockers, and more "techie"
tools.  A complete source guide is included. Price: $39.95 (may not be carried?)

#52032 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO LOCK PICKING by Eddie the Wire (80pp
1981).  The very best book ever written on how to pick locks (quite
the claim).  Topics covered include: Basic Principle and General
Rules, How To Mount Practice Locks, Warded Locks, Disc Tumbler Locks,
Lever Tumbler Locks, Pin Tumbler Locks, Wafer Tumbler Locks, Lock
Modifications To Thwart Tampering And How To Overcome Them, Various
Other Ways Of Bypassing Locks And Locking Mechanisms.  Price: $14.95

#52059 HOME WORKSHOP PROFESSIONAL LOCK TOOLS, by Eddie the Wire, $21.95
In step-by-step illustrated detail, eddie the wire tells you where
to get the best materials to use for making your own professional
lock picks - with no questions asked! Everything you need to know
to make lifter picks, diamond picks, snake picks, tension wrenches,
and more is revealed! How to make the best handles and carrying
cases for your picks. Mass production techniques. Impressioning
tools. Simulators. Using a computer to generate pick profiles.
How to "case" a subdivision. And much more!
1996, 8 1/2 x 11, 128pp, 80 illustrations, soft cover. Paperback
Published by Loompanics Unlimited January 1996 ISBN: 1559501367

#52044 PERSONAL PICKS (VHS TAPE - 72min) by Eddie the Wire, 1988.
Demonstrates the step-by-step process of making lock tools in the home
workshop.  Price: $29.95 (may not be carried?)

#52051 EXPERT LOCK PICKING (VHS TAPE - 60min) by Ron Reed, 1990.  The
author has won the California Locksmiths Association lock-picking
championship (I guess that's good).  Uses specially designed cutaway,
see-through locks, so you can view the inside mechanisms of working
locks as they respond to picking techniques.  Price: $59.95 (May not be

#52048 ADVANCED LOCK PICKING by Steven M. Hampton (50pp, 1989).
Describes the inner workings of the new high-security locks and
includes templates for making custom tools.  Schematic diagrams for
portable electronic picks to open magnetic key and card locks.  Tips
on enhancing finger sensitivity, concentration power, constructing
practice lock boxes, and more.  Price: $10.00 (may not be carried?)

make a duplicate key when you can keep the original only a short time.
Price: $10.00

(VHS TAPE - 45min) by Pierre Smith, 1988.  How to open and enter
practically any modern automobile and how to start them without the
key.  Price: $49.95 (may not be carried?)

#52016 HOW TO FIT KEYS BY IMPRESSIONING by Desert Publications (26pp,
1975).  Subjects covered include: Fitting bit keys, Fitting flat steel
keys, Fitting lever tumbler keys, Fitting disc tumbler keys, Necessary
tools, Techniques of obtaining impressions, and more.  Price: $7.95
 (may not be carried?)

Paladin Press
P.O. Box 1307, Boulder, Colorado 80306
You might get the idea of what they sell (somewhat comparable to
Loompanics) by their own slogan "HOME OF THE ACTION LIBRARY"
800) 392-2400 Retail Credit Card Orders Only
(303) 443-7250 Wholesale Orders and Customer Service
(303) 442-8741 FAX -- Customer Service and Orders -- Dealer Inquiries -- Editorial Queries

Here's a list of the locksmithing related books in their catalog:

5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, 60 illus., 80 pp.  $14.95

128 pp.  $21.95

An Insider's Guide to How It's Done and How to Prevent It by B. Andy
5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 88 pp.
ISBN 0-87364-777-7....................$12.00

64 pp.  ISBN 0-87364-233-3....................$10.95

 5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 20 pp.  $8.50

70 pp. ISBN 0-87364-040-3....................$10.00

Lock Picking for Spies, Cops and Locksmiths by John Minnery
128 pp.  ISBN 0-87364-510-3....................$14.00

5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 72 pp.
ISBN 0-87364-423-9....................$17.00

Protecting Your Home, Business, and Car with State-of-the-Art Burglar Alarms
by Steven Hampton
5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 128 pp.  ISBN 0-87364-654-1   $14.00

Tactics and Techniques for Bypassing Alarms and Defeating Locks by Carl Hammer
5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 216 pp.  ISBN 0-87364-688-6  $20.00

by Wayne B. Yeager
5 1/2 x 8 1/2, softcover, illus., 96 pp.  $12.95

They also have half a dozen videos listed.

Wheeler-Tanner Escapes
3024 E. 35th
Spokane, WA 99223
509 448 8457.

Mainly Magic/Escape Artist supplies, but that includes lots of
locksmithing equipment and books.  If you need more info, jusk ask.
(Catalog is $2, refundable w/ 1st order).

There is a book [159]The Visual
Guide to Locksmithing has a heavily illustrated approach.

  Information for collectors.?

Lock Museum of America
130 Main St.
Terryville, CT
This museum also sponsors a lock collectors show.

The Padlock Collector  6th edition 1996
Franklin M. Arlall (isbn 0-914638-05-x)
The Collector
PO Box 253
Claremont, CA 91711
This book has descriptions of over 2800 locks.

[160]The First Internet Lock Museum
by Billy B. Edwards Jr., CML

                          Workshop Contents

In no particular order (the first person in some items is from the
original poster(s)):

WORKBENCH. must be solid enough to support a cheap key machine

HAMMERS. 1 claw, one 2 pounder, a couple of ball peens down to 6 ounces

SCREWDRIVERS  various sizes, slot and phillips. nothing fancy-a good
pocket screwdriver for ms lock set screws

DRILL  a cheap 3/8" is good for a beginner but should be reversible.
14.4V cordless w/extra battery.  Variable speed pays for itself.

SQUARE.  necessity when prepping doors


WRENCHES. decent small sized crescent, channel, needlenose, and a
couple of combo wrenches.  Also some specialty types from the MFG.  I keep
several different spanners like the one that comes with a SCH D80 Orbit, as
well as a Unican spanner.  Also, a castle nut wrench like those supplied
with SCH heavy duty levers

ALLEN WRENCHES. A good hex key set is invaluable in addition to some
longer ones supplied by the MFG.  Yale & Corbin use long ones for
convenience, but LORI deadbolts require them.  The lori wrenches also
work for some old MS locks and DormaGlass bottom rail locks.

BITS. ordinary high speed steel will do for anything the newbie would
encounter. Should also have augers or paddle bits up to 1-1/4"unibit"
and a good rasp

HOLE SAW. 2-1/8 for sure, other sizes optional 1" for metal frames, 1 1/4
for mortise cyl, and one approp for cheaper deadbolts such as SCH B-160

CHISELS. nothing fancy but if you can find a 1-1/8 for mortising face
plates, great. good 1" and good 1/2".  Keep an old one handy for beating.

 FILES. I find the Nicholson 1/8" round chainsaw file to be really
handy and cheap for impressioning. A cheap set of needle files from Radio shack
is good too. I grind down one edge of the triangle file to supplement the
round file. Also should have a large mill bastard. Pippins are expensive and
I don't find them any more useful than the above. I use a 6" #2 swiss
and a 6"/10" warding bastard.

HACKSAW. Go with quality here, especially with blades. Even the best
blades are a low ticket item so no sense buying off-brands

DREMEL or equivelant. Even a newbie... ESPECIALLY a newbie should have
one for fabricating hard to find or one-off items. Get lots of the thin
cutoff wheels and a mandrel to hold them

GOGGLES. protect those eyes. Not much work for a blind locksmith.

DIAL CALIPER. much handier than a micrometer.  I think the Pocket
Decoder by HPC is an excellent item to have on hand.  I havn't touched my
micrometer in years.

VISE GRIPS assorted

CYLINDER SHIMS  If he or she is new, better get a ton ;-)

FEELER GUAGE SET gives you lots of different thicknesses of shim stock
for padlock shimming, tool making, or spacing

PLUG FOLLOWERS can be home made. Nobody will notice  Don't let them see
you using your keedex pin dumping follower, you'll never teach them that
it's cheating.  Also, you'd need various types, unless you like driving
out roll pins.  Accompany these tools with a real set of pin tweezers.
Maybe some eyebrow tweezers for when you keep them in the shop for 2 months
cutting keys and get shavings in their socks ;-)


HEMOSTATS  lots of them. They can be modified into a number of useful
tools like snap ring pliers and pin tweezers. They can be bent, ground,
whatever, and economically discarded if you mess them up


BASIC PICK SET  no need for the big Crayola 64 color set. A beginner
usually has time to make anything in this category anyway.  A couple of
extractors and a plug spinner.

VARIOUS TURNING TOOLS other than regular old tension wrenches. A
feather touch can be handy when raking or reverse picking spool equipped
locks, and I really like two-prong style tools for general picking.

CHEAP SET OF TUBULAR PICKS like the HPC "Peanut" or equivelant.  I
hate the peanut.  I use a good one with adjustable tension.



ELECTRICAL TAPE great aid in holding hinge shims, as well as more advanced
stuff not outfitted for here


TOOL BAG/POUCH the "Gator Mouth" tool bag is getting very popular now

VACUUM dirt devil or the like for cleaning up after drilling doors.
Also an old tarp for collecting the majority of shavings.

LUGGAGE CART great for hauling tools & supplies, and if you're in a lobby
in a commercial property--they're less likely to bitch at you than if you
had a cart or hand truck.  Also, luggage carts fold up and store neatly on
the truck.

SUBSCRIPTION to one of the trade rags.  Pref. TNL.  NPC has a horrible
reputation for customer service, plus they no longer publish most of
their most valuable books.  (the books are still advertised by ALOA though)
NPC is crap, again my personal opinion.

BOOKS. all you can afford, but starting with a couple of basic texts by
Roper or Phillips. Knowledge is more valuable than any physical tool.
A collection of back issues no longer needed by an established smith is
good, too. More specific books should reflect particular areas of interest
or specialization, like AUTO-SMART etc and should be bought fairly early

BASIC SET OF CAR TOOLS  True, you can easily make most of the standard
wire tools, but good to have a "store-bought" set of the more popular ones
to copy.

COMPUTER AND INTERNET CONNECTION  This is becoming very nearly a necessity,
and once a beginner is "in the circle", he has the benefit of the sum total
experience and knowledge of a widely varied group of locksmiths as well as
access to reference works he can't afford yet, like up-to-date codes.

PIN TRAY can be made from a piece or corrugated rubber mat

PLUG HOLDER can be made from an old mortise cylinder



FLASHLIGHT  I like a mini mag-light myself.  The mini-mini mag is -50
dia, and can be used as an emergency follower.  It's lighted too.


CODE BOOKS if a fairly up to date used set can be had cheaply. The expense
of code software is a good one to put off for a year or so if the newbie
has friends with books or software, unless he finds himself cutting by
code at least once a day.

KEY MACHINE  I am gonna go out on a limb here and get controversial. I
think a used FB machine is a decent first machine for a budget minded utter
beginner with a low work load. The stock machine has micrometer depth
adjustment, and they make an add-on micrometer spacing attachment.  Cutting
by the numbers therefore is do-able on the same machine the newbie
duplicates on. Yeah its a pretty cheesy little machine, but good training
for the beginner since it enforces the wise practice of checking adjustments
daily on the primary machine. These machines regularly go used for under a
hundred bucks, and a brand new spacing attachment is only $49.95 and
direct reading digital for a hundred bucks more. As for using the factory
supplied spacing keys, forget it. The hassle, versus the low cost of a spacing
attachment is just not worth it. I have done it both ways and the
micrometer add-on wins hands down.

Did I forget anything? Oh yeah a SERVICE VEHICLE. The family station wagon
or a pickup with a topper will do until a real van is financially do-able.

PISTOL. Only half joking, especially when doing night calls. I would rather
feel stupid for carrying it and never needing it, than to feel stupid for
ever needing it but not having it. ALTERNATIVELY, in more left-wing
liberal areas where only the bad guys are allowed to have guns, a can of
pepper spray.

ONE MORE THING... DIGITAL CAMERA. Great for archiving locks encountered on
jobs, especially safe locks and boltworks, and for reference pics when
asking old-timers for advice. Another possible use... taking pics of
customers without ID or taking pics of their drivers license. This is
kinda optional, but if you always wanted an excuse to get one anyway......

  Credit & Thanks

   The alt.locksmithing FAQ was put together from postings by 
[161] (Joe "Spike" Ilacqua), and 
(Henry Schaffer), with a major data collection effort by
(Scott Anguish).  Edited by hes.  Translated to English by (Elizabeth Lear).  Send comments, criticisms, and
compliments to "".

The following have contributed to this FAQ:
    Scott Anguish <>
    J. James (Jim) Belonis II <>
    Stephen J Berch <>
    John F. Bousquet <>
    Chris Boyd <>
    Robert Bruce Findler <>
    Hobbit <hobbit@>(looking for current address);
    Marcus Jenkins <>
    Larry Margolis <>
    Andy McFadden <>
    William A Moyes <>
    Stan Schwarz <>
    Thomas E Zerucha <>
    Daniel Hagan <>
    Joe Kesselman <>
    Roger Weitzenkamp <>
    Jay Hennigan <>
    Billy B. Edwards Jr. <>
    Robert Stahr <>
    Marc Goldberg <>
    Tom Pettigrew <>
    Robinson <>
    Andru Luvisi <>

Thanks to:
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User Contributions:

Oct 29, 2021 @ 7:19 pm
Sima Swallow
alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Tvargyden 34
Tvargyden 34
Oct 31, 2021 @ 5:17 pm
alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Imogen Matheny

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Jan 13, 2022 @ 8:08 am
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