Search the FAQ Archives

3 - A - B - C - D - E - F - G - H - I - J - K - L - M
N - O - P - Q - R - S - T - U - V - W - X - Y - Z
faqs.org - Internet FAQ Archives

Electrical Wiring FAQ (Part 1 of 2)
Section - What is UL listing?

( Part1 - Part2 - Single Page )
[ Usenet FAQs | Web FAQs | Documents | RFC Index | Schools ]


Top Document: Electrical Wiring FAQ (Part 1 of 2)
Previous Document: What do I need in the way of tools?
Next Document: What is CSA approval?
See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge

	The UL stands for "Underwriters Laboratory".  It used to be
	an Insurance Industry organization, but now it is independent
	and non-profit.  It tests electrical components and equipment
	for potential hazards.  When something is UL-listed, that means
	that the UL has tested the device, and it meets their requirements
	for safety - ie: fire or shock hazard.  It doesn't necessarily
	mean that the device actually does what it's supposed to, just
	that it probably won't kill you.

	The UL does not have power of law in the U.S. -- you are
	permitted to buy and install non-UL-listed devices.  However,
	insurance policies sometimes have clauses in them that will
	limit their liability in case of a claim made in response to
	the failure of a non-UL-listed device.  Furthermore, in
	many situations the NEC will require that a wiring component
	used for a specific purpose is UL-listed for that purpose.
	Indirectly, this means that certain parts of your wiring
	must be UL-listed before an inspector will approve it and/or
	occupancy permits issued.
	

User Contributions:

Dev
Report this comment as inappropriate
Dec 21, 2011 @ 12:00 am
In a fire protection circuit, circuts are shown witha no example 6,8,4etc. what it mean?these circuits are connected between smode detector,junction box etc
kevin
Report this comment as inappropriate
Dec 24, 2011 @ 12:12 pm
My daughter dropped a small necklace behind her dresser. The necklace crossed a plug terminal and shorted the receptacle.
I bought a new receptacle and installed the same. I still have no power I suspect there could be a bigger problem,this is aluminum wiring.
I've killed the breaker and call an electrician but am curious as to what happened.P.s. there is a dimmer switch on the same circuit.
dennis
Report this comment as inappropriate
Feb 24, 2012 @ 11:11 am
Regarding new construction wiring and running 12/2 and 14/3 wire in the same box.

I have multiple switches to lights. Ran 12/2 and 14/3 into switch box and inspector wrote correction needed.

What should I have done instead?

thank you
dennis
Robert
Report this comment as inappropriate
Nov 26, 2012 @ 9:21 pm
Does a grounding electrode facilitate the operation of a OCPD, to clear a ground fault ?
@dennis
Report this comment as inappropriate
Mar 18, 2013 @ 10:10 am
Assuming you are installing two switches in a two switch box, you probably should have used 14/2 and 14/3 instead of replacing 14/2 with 12/2. If you are only installing one switch in a one switch box, you should only have one cable in the box.
P k
Report this comment as inappropriate
Jan 26, 2014 @ 10:10 am
I prefer to use nothing smaller than12 awg /the smallest sized wire on a circuit determines the allowable ampacity
Ex: 15 amp-14awg. 12awg-20amp only rule for thumb other factors such as continuous load,heating and others if you do not know the safe NEC rules then please call a qualified journeyman Electrician better be safe

Comment about this article, ask questions, or add new information about this topic:

CAPTCHA




Top Document: Electrical Wiring FAQ (Part 1 of 2)
Previous Document: What do I need in the way of tools?
Next Document: What is CSA approval?

Part1 - Part2 - Single Page

[ Usenet FAQs | Web FAQs | Documents | RFC Index ]

Send corrections/additions to the FAQ Maintainer:
clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)





Last Update March 27 2014 @ 02:11 PM