Top Document: Electrical Wiring FAQ (Part 1 of 2) Previous Document: Grounding electrode system Next Document: Testing grounding conductors and grounding electrodes. See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge All "metallic systems" in a home that are capable of being energized are required to be bonded to the grounding system. This is usually taken to mean: metallic water supply, metallic drain-waste-vent pipe, metal ducting, gas lines, and sometimes metallic structural elements (eg: metal framing systems). The rationale for this is simple: if somehow a hot conductor contacts a water pipe, say, you don't want every plumbing fixture in your home to become live. The bonding attempts to ensure that you have a low resistance path to the ground system at the panel, and thence to the neutral - ensuring that this ground fault is stopped by a breaker or fuse tripping. Remember that this is independent of the grounding electrode system's conductivity. Normally the bonding of most of these systems are done by the equipment involved. Furnace ducting is grounded by the furnace connection. Gas line grounding is done by the gas man ;-) So we'll mainly talk about water line grounding here. The NEC appears to insist that each electrically isolated section of metallic water pipe must be jumpered together. Take particular note that you are required to provide a jumper wire that bypasses the main water meter (especially if you're using the water supply line as a grounding electrode), and a jumper between hot and cold if the water heater is an electrical insulator. The CEC, for example, also requires that the frame of your clothes washer is bonded to the cold water supply pipe. Exact details of how this bonding should be done is beyond the scope of this FAQ. It tends to be a 6ga wire running from the grounding terminal of the panel to a convenient copper pipe. If the water supply is used as a grounding electrode, the rules become stricter (5' rule applies in NEC etc.) User Contributions:Comment about this article, ask questions, or add new information about this topic:Top Document: Electrical Wiring FAQ (Part 1 of 2) Previous Document: Grounding electrode system Next Document: Testing grounding conductors and grounding electrodes. Part1 - Part2 - Single Page [ Usenet FAQs | Web FAQs | Documents | RFC Index ] Send corrections/additions to the FAQ Maintainer: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Last Update March 27 2014 @ 02:11 PM
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I bought a new receptacle and installed the same. I still have no power I suspect there could be a bigger problem,this is aluminum wiring.
I've killed the breaker and call an electrician but am curious as to what happened.P.s. there is a dimmer switch on the same circuit.
I have multiple switches to lights. Ran 12/2 and 14/3 into switch box and inspector wrote correction needed.
What should I have done instead?
thank you
dennis
Ex: 15 amp-14awg. 12awg-20amp only rule for thumb other factors such as continuous load,heating and others if you do not know the safe NEC rules then please call a qualified journeyman Electrician better be safe