Top Document: Electrical Wiring FAQ (Part 1 of 2) Previous Document: What does "14-2" mean? Next Document: What is a GFI/GFCI? See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge A twist-on wire connector is a cone shaped threaded plastic thingummy that's used to connect wires together. "Marrette", "Marr connector", "IDEAL Wire-nut(R)" are trade names. You'll usually use a lot of them in DIY wiring. In essence, you strip the end of the wires about an inch, twist them together, then twist the connector on. While some connectors advertise that you don't need to twist the wire, do it anyways - it's more mechanically and electrically secure. Unless the instructions specifically state otherwise... There are many different sizes of wire connector. You should check that the connector you're using is the correct size for the quantity and sizes of wire you're connecting together. Don't just gimble the wires together with a pair of pliers or your fingers. Use a pair of blunt nose ("linesman") pliers, and carefully twist the wires tightly and neatly. Sometimes it's a good idea to trim the resulting end to make sure it goes in the connector properly. After twisting the connector on, give each wire a tug, and make sure that nothing is loose. Some people wrap the "open" end of the connector with electrical tape. This is probably not a good idea - the inspector may tear it off during an inspection. It's usually done because a bit of bare wire is exposed outside the connector - instead of taping it, the connection should be redone. User Contributions:Comment about this article, ask questions, or add new information about this topic:Top Document: Electrical Wiring FAQ (Part 1 of 2) Previous Document: What does "14-2" mean? Next Document: What is a GFI/GFCI? Part1 - Part2 - Single Page [ Usenet FAQs | Web FAQs | Documents | RFC Index ] Send corrections/additions to the FAQ Maintainer: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Last Update March 27 2014 @ 02:11 PM
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I bought a new receptacle and installed the same. I still have no power I suspect there could be a bigger problem,this is aluminum wiring.
I've killed the breaker and call an electrician but am curious as to what happened.P.s. there is a dimmer switch on the same circuit.
I have multiple switches to lights. Ran 12/2 and 14/3 into switch box and inspector wrote correction needed.
What should I have done instead?
thank you
dennis
Ex: 15 amp-14awg. 12awg-20amp only rule for thumb other factors such as continuous load,heating and others if you do not know the safe NEC rules then please call a qualified journeyman Electrician better be safe