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rec.pets.dogs: Breeding, Whelping, and Rearing Puppies FAQ

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Archive-name: dogs-faq/medical-info/whelping
Last-modified: 07 Nov 1997

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This article is Copyright 1997 by the Author(s) listed below. 
It may be freely distributed on the Internet in its entirety without
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It may NOT reside at another website (use links, please) other
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                  Breeding, Whelping, and Rearing Puppies

   Liza Lee Miller,
   Originally written: April 1996
   Updated: April 2, 1997
   Copyright 1996 by Liza Lee Miller. All rights reserved. You may
   download and print a copy of this file for your personal use. Further
   distribution must be with the explicit permission of the author.
   Before breeding a bitch or even planning to breed a bitch, please
   consult a veterinarian. The information contained in this FAQ should
   in no way be construed as a substitute for veterinary care and advice.
   Further, you should make an effort to find a veterinarian who is
   familiar with canine whelping issues. Because so many people are being
   responsible and spaying their bitches, fewer veterinarians are
   comfortable with whelping puppies. Surprisingly, emergency clinic
   veterinarians are more likely to be familiar with whelping issues.
   This is no doubt because of the well-known maxim that, given a
   preference, dogs will whelp at 2 am when the regular vet clinics are
   closed. Again, please consult a veterinarian before doing any
   breedings. As with people, pre-natal care is important in bitches.
Table of Contents

     * Introduction
     * Preparing the Bitch
     * Choosing a Stud Dog
     * Paperwork
     * Breeding Timeline
     * Pregnancy Timeline
     * Preparing Your Whelping Kit
     * Whelping the Litter
     * Raising Puppies Timeline
     * Finding And Dealing With Puppy Buyers
     * Health Guarantees
     * Financial Considerations
     * Resources

   Breeding a litter of puppies is a task to be taken very, very
   seriously. You are producing life of your own volition for a wide
   variety of reasons. Some of those reasons will be good ones, some will
   not. But this decision should be thought through very, very carefully.
   Before reading further, please read the Breeding Your Dog FAQ. Also,
   this document should be taken only as a starting point. If after
   reading this document, you still want to breed your bitch, I strongly
   suggest that you get and read at least some of the books listed in the
   resource section.
   Further, I recommend you consult with your bitch's breeder for
   guidance in this matter. Dogs should be bred for one reason and one
   reason only: To improve the breed. If you are reading this with the
   intention of breeding to make a quick buck, educate the children, or
   to fulfill your bitch's feminine needs, please don't breed your dog!
   Seriously, as you'll learn as you read on, done properly, breeding is
   rarely a money-maker; more likely a money drain! Children can become
   educated much more fully than you intended when something goes wrong
   in a breeding. Losing the bitch and all her puppies is probably not
   the lesson you intended but it happens all to frequently. And, of
   course, as to the last one, most bitches really want to be your
   beloved companion 24 hours a day, so if you really want to make your
   dog happy, spay her and spend more time with her! But, if you are
   determined to go on, then please read this FAQ thoroughly. It covers
   the responsible breeding of dogs to produce quality puppies and give
   them the best start in life.
   If you have a dog that is pregnant right now, please do not use this
   FAQ as your sole source of information. Look for a qualified
   veterinarian in your area to assist you with whelping the puppies.
   The information in this FAQ has been obtained by my own experience,
   research through the literature and by talking to knowledgeable
   breeders. Many thanks go to Vicki Blodgett and Terri Herigstad for
   being so willing to share their hard won expertise. Also, I'd like to
   thank Cindy Tittle Moore for her support of my first solo FAQ project.
Preparing the Bitch

   _What do I need to do before I breed my bitch?_
     This is really two questions. What should I do before I decide to
     breed my bitch and, then, once that decision is made, what do I do
   _Okay, what do I do before I decide to breed my bitch?_
     Before you breed a dog, you need to decide whether or not that dog
     is an appropriate candidate for breeding. First of all, no bitch
     should be bred before the age of 2. They are just not physically
     mature enough yet. Let them grow up and develop before they go
     through the physical strain of breeding, carrying, and whelping
     puppies. This shouldn't be a problem however, because you'll be
     plenty busy during those two years. Your dog will be in preparation
     for breeding for the first two years of her life. Everything you do
     for her, including providing quality nutrition and health care,
     obedience training, showing, working, and loving will make her a
     better mother and help her to produce a healthier litter.
   _I can see why nutrition and health care are important concerns, but
   how do those other things make her a better brood bitch?_
     They are all important in different ways. The most important is
     probably the last one. Pregnancy, delivery, and puppy raising are
     very stressful on a dog and knowing that you love her really does
     make her job easier. For one thing, she'll trust you to help with
     the puppies, rather than feeling that she needs to defend them. The
     obedience training comes into play in the strangest ways. Sometimes
     a female will get overly anxious when her new puppies start crying:
     being able to put her on a down stay so that she is giving them
     ready access to what they want (food!) will give you great peace of
     mind. These are just a few examples of why all this preparation is
   _Okay, but what about showing and working, how can those have any
   effect on her qualities as a brood bitch?_
     There are two reasons why a brood bitch should "get out of the
     house." First of all, she'll be a happier dog if she has activities
     in her life and gets to go places with you and do fun things. If
     she's happier, she'll be a better mother. It's that simple.
     Secondly, you need to have some way of knowing that your bitch is
     worthy of breeding. That sounds very judgmental, but I'll remind
     you that we are discussing responsible breeding here. That means
     that we are breeding to better the breed. The best way to ensure
     that you are improving the breed is to only breed quality animals
     to other quality animals with an eye to minimizing faults and
     strengthening good qualities. We'll discuss more on choosing a stud
     dog later, however, you also need to choose your brood bitch. If
     you are starting out with your first dog, you'll need to look long
     and hard at her and decide if she's worthy of breeding. This has
     nothing to do with how much you love her -- obviously you do --
     this has to do with bettering the breed. This can be a difficult
     decision to make when your heart is involved. Hearts tend to fuzz
     up our vision so that faults are minimized and good qualities are
     enhanced. This is where the idea of showing and testing our animals
     originated. These events give us a better idea of whether or not
     our dogs are worthy of breeding. But, keep in mind, everyone has
     their own standards and they won't all agree. Some people won't
     breed a bitch until she's a Champion in the show ring. Some people
     don't consider a bitch worthy of breeding until she's got her
     Master Hunter title or her Utility Dog title. You have to make
     these decisions yourself, keeping in mind the idea of bettering the
     breed. At the minimum, you should have her evaluated by another,
     more knowledgeable pair of eyes. Her breeder would be an ideal
     choice, however, that's not always possible. Any experienced
     breeder in your particular breed should be able to help you
     evaluate your bitch honestly and without the rosy glow of love
     changing your perspective.
   _Okay, I'm satisfied that she's a quality bitch, worthy of breeding,
   what's the next step?_
     Hold on there! Not so fast! This is a long process, remember? There
     is another reason you need to wait until your bitch is over two
     years of age. Health Checks! You'll need to have various health
     checks done in order to determine whether or not your dog should be
     bred. The necessary health checks vary from breed to breed and you
     should consult a good book on your breed or a knowledgeable breeder
     to determine what tests you'll need to have done.
     The most common tests are:
     _Hip X-rays_: Have a veterinarian x-ray your dog's hips and submit
     those x-rays to the OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) for
     evaluation. If your dog's hips are rated Fair, Good, or Excellent,
     your dog is normal and can be bred. If they are rated dysplastic,
     please discuss this diagnosis with your vet and spay your bitch as
     soon as possible. Hip Dysplasia is an often painful joint disorder
     that can be treated in various ways. It is hereditary and no dog
     that is dysplastic should be bred.
     _Elbow X-rays_: Recently, the dog community has become aware that
     elbows are also at risk of becoming dysplastic. Most responsible
     breeders are also having elbow x-rays done and evaluated by the
     _Eyes_: In many breeds, a disease called PRA (Progressive Retinal
     Atrophy) is a serious problem. A board-certified veterinary
     ophthalmologist can examine your pets eyes and ensure that they are
     normal. This test must be done on an annual basis. Since PRA is a
     progressive disease, a dog can be fine one year and show symptoms
     the next. Eye examinations can then be sent on to CERF (Canine Eye
     Registry Foundation) for certification which must be renewed
     annually. There are other eye diseases (such as cataracts) common
     to different breeds as well; you will need to research to find out
     what is applicable for your breed.
     _Brucellosis_: This is a canine venereal disease that can be
     transmitted in other ways as well. Even virgin dogs or bitches
     should be tested prior to breeding. Most stud dog owners require
     recent brucellosis tests before allowing breeding to occur. They
     will generally have tested their dogs within the last six months.
     If they haven't tested their dogs in the last six months, ask that
     they do so before breeding to your bitch!
     You should require all of the above testing from the stud dog owner
     as well as providing it to them. More on choosing a stud dog,
Choosing a Stud Dog

   Choosing a sire for your litter is as important a decision as choosing
   your bitch was originally. You need to spend some time and effort on
   this decision. This is a good time to get some expert advice. If at
   all possible, you should consult with your bitch's breeder and ask
   them to spend some time with you going over the various options so
   that you understand why one dog would be better for your bitch than
   another. If your breeder or another expert isn't available to spend
   some time with you, then you'll need to do the research on your own so
   you can make a knowledgeable decision.
   The first thing you'll want to do is take the information you've
   gathered over the years about your bitch and analyze her strengths and
   weaknesses. Does she have a weak top line but a nice front? How is her
   rear angulation? What about her coat texture? Her temperament? You can
   see know why getting your dog out and showing and/or working her can
   be helpful in this process. If you don't know what's wrong with your
   bitch, you don't know what you want to fix in a future generation.
   And, that's really what you are trying to do -- improve the breed by
   improving on your bitch. So be brutally honest with yourself. You know
   you love your bitch, that's not in question here, but if you can't be
   honest about her flaws, then you can't fix them in a future
   generation. You'll want to focus on one, maybe two, problems that
   you'd like to see improved and look for a stud dog who is strong in
   those areas without being too weak in some other area. It can become a
   delicate balancing act -- of course, with no guarantee of success.
   There are two main theories in breeding that you'll want to
   understand. The first one is probably the simplest: breeding like to
   like. This means that you take the overall look of the bitch and find
   a stud dog that physically compliments her look. The theory is that if
   you breed like to like, you'll get like.
   The second way to approach a breeding is more complicated. It's called
   line breeding. It involves analyzing the pedigrees of your bitch and
   the potential stud dogs to choose a good match. There are several ways
   to approach line breeding. First of all, you need to understand
   several terms.
   _Line breeding_ is similar to breeding like to like only instead of
   collecting physical similarities, you are collecting the genes of a
   particular dog. _Inbreeding_ is an extremely close line breeding. When
   you are starting out in breeding, you want to keep away from
   inbreeding as it is risky unless you are very sure of the pedigrees
   involved. The last type of pedigree-breeding is an outcross. An
   outcross breeding will have a pedigree where there are no, or at least
   very few, dogs in common. This often happens when you are breeding
   like to like. Most breeders practice some form of line breeding,
   generally focusing on one of the important studs in their breed.
   Of course, you want to make sure that the dog you are concentrating on
   is worthy of the honor. If you line breed on a mediocre dog -- or a
   dog with a particular health problem -- you'll get what you asked for.
   This type of breeding is particularly tricky and you want to make sure
   that you have carefully researched the dogs in your bitch's pedigree
   so that you know where you'd want to go with the line breeding.
   In practice, you'll probably want to employ a combination of these two
   techniques. You'll want to find a pedigree that is complimentary to
   your bitch and a dog that is physically compatible as well. Again,
   this is a really good time to seek the advice of knowledgeable
   breeders. Choosing a stud dog is also a really good reason to become
   active in the breed's activities while your bitch is young. This will
   allow you to be familiar with various stud dogs before you bitch comes
   in season.
   Once you've narrowed your choices down to two or three likely
   candidates, you'll want to call the stud dog owners and interview them
   about their dogs. Most stud dog owners will be honest with you about
   what their dogs are producing, their strengths and weaknesses, and
   what you can expect. If they aren't forthcoming about the problems as
   well as the benefits of their dogs, you should probably steer clear of
   At some point in the process, you'll have to make a decision about
   which dog will be best for your litter. No one can make this decision
   for you but if you've done your homework and been honest with yourself
   about your bitch, then you'll probably find a compatible dog. Then you
   are ready to enter the genetic crap shoot and see what you get.
   Because we know so little about the complicated genetics behind our
   dogs, you really are making a shot in the dark. Even the most
   experienced breeder makes mistakes -- this is why you want to be very
   careful and thorough in your research.
   Once your decision is made, you'll want to notify the stud dog owner
   about when you expect your bitch to come in season so that they can
   make their own plans. You will probably want to get your bitch to the
   stud dog within the first week of her season so that she has time to
   adapt to her new surroundings before being bred.

   Keep the following information on file for each bitch/litter you
  Heat Record
    1. Name of bitch
    2. Litter Number (way to differentiate between litters at your
    3. Date of onset
    4. Interval
    5. Smear date and results
    6. Progesterone Test date and results
    7. Breeding dates and comments on breeding
    8. Palpitation dates and results
    9. Ultrasound date and results
   10. X-ray date and results
   11. Notes on pregnancy
   12. Track weight gain weekly
   13. Track temperature from day 58-65, 3 times daily
   14. Date and time whelping began
   15. Date and time whelping ended
   16. Notes on whelping
  Litter Record (as required by the AKC)
    1. Breed
    2. Registered name and AKC number of dam
    3. Registered name and AKC number of sire
    4. Sire's owner's name
    5. Date mated
    6. Date litter whelped
    7. Number of male puppies born
    8. Number of female puppies born
    9. AKC Litter Number
   10. Sex, Color/Markings, Puppy ID number, Date Sold, Date Died, Name
       and address of person to whom sold, Dates when following paperwork
       was supplied: registration application or certificate and bill of
       sale; name and AKC number of puppy.
  Additional Litter Information
    1. Time each puppy was born
    2. Ribbon color or other identifying mark
    3. Color of puppy
    4. Sex
    5. Weight at birth
    6. Length at birth
    7. A description of any problems
    8. Whelping date
    9. Sire and Dam
   10. Time whelping started and ended
   11. Notes on whelping
  Puppy Record
    1. Ribbon color
    2. Call Name
    3. Registered Name
    4. Sex
    5. Color
    6. AKC Litter #
    7. AKC Registration #
    8. Date of Birth
    9. Sire and Dam
   10. Weight at Birth and when sold
   11. Vaccinations Given (Date and Type)
   12. Owner (include address and telephone numbers)
   13. Date sold
   14. Conditions of sale
   15. Price
   16. Notes on Development and Temperament
   17. On the back of this form, track the weight of the puppies daily
       until they are three weeks old and then weekly thereafter.
  Litter Registration Application
   Contact AKC and request this form. Once puppies are whelped, complete
   this form and have stud dog owner sign the form. Send the completed
   form with appropriate fee to AKC. It's nice to send a self- addressed
   stamped envelope with the application to the stud dog owner so they
   can mail it on to the AKC without delay. Litter registration
   applications must be received by the AKC within six months of date of
   whelping in order to register puppies with the AKC. However, you
   should submit this form as soon as the puppies are whelped so that you
   can deliver the correct paperwork to the puppy buyers when they pick
   up their puppies.
  Puppy Registration Forms
   For each puppy listed on the Litter Registration Application, you will
   get a registration form to give to the puppy buyers so that they can
   register their puppies with the AKC. Technically, the puppy buyer can
   name the puppy anything they want. In reality, most breeders insist on
   their kennel name being the first word in the dogs name. Additionally,
   some breeders have themes for their litters and require the name of
   the puppy to fit into that theme. Make any special requirements known
   to the buyers well in advance so they can pick out an appropriate name
   for their puppy.
Breeding Timeline

     * Choose your stud dog ahead of time. Let the stud dog owner know
       when you expect your bitch to come in season. They'll let you know
       about any requirements they have.
     * You should choose a backup as well, just in case your first choice
       isn't available
     * Have your bitch examined by a veterinarian to ensure she is
       healthy. Have a brucellosis test done as well.
     * As soon as you see first signs of your bitch being in season,
       contact the stud dog owner. If your stud dog is out-of-the-area,
       you'll want to discuss shipping arrangements at this time so that
       you'll be able to make all the necessary arrangements.
     * If this is your bitch's first breeding, you'll want to know when
       she's ready to be bred. See your veterinarian about smears and/or
       progesterone testing. This will help you pinpoint the right time
       to get your bitch to the stud dog. This will typically be between
       days 10 and 15 but could be much earlier or later.
     * You'll also want to schedule a brucellosis test so that the
       results will be current for the stud dog owner.
  When the bitch is ready
     * Contact the stud dog owner and let them know when and how the
       bitch will be arriving.
     * If you are shipping the bitch, the stud dog owner will pick the
       dog up at the airport and will need all the information. You
       should send all the paperwork with the bitch. You can just tape an
       envelope to the crate.
     * If you are delivering the dog yourself, get good directions and
       bring all your paperwork.
  When the bitch comes home
     * Your bitch will stay with the stud dog owner for a week or two.
     * When your bitch comes home, you should get some paperwork with her
       from the stud dog owner, including a contract, copies of the stud
       dog's health clearances, the stud dog's pedigree, and information
       on when the bitch was bred.
Pregnancy Timeline

  Week One
          + Fertilization occurs
          + 2 cell embryos are in the oviduct
          + The embryo is fairly resistant to external interference in
          + Possible morning sickness
          + Possible personality changes
          + Normal feeding
          + Check any and all medications with vet prior to administering
          + No insecticides (i.e., flea treatments)
          + No live vaccines
          + Put together pedigree on litter
          + Write contract
          + Contact AKC for litter registration application
          + Start taking puppy reservations
  Week Two (Days 8-14)
          + Embryo will be 4 cell at start of week and 64 cell by end of
          + Embryo enters the uterus
          + Possible morning sickness
          + Continue as with Week One
          + Nothing special this week
  Week Three (Days 15-21)
          + Day 19 -- Implantation of embryos in uterus
          + See above
          + See above
          + Nothing special this week
  Week Four (Days 22-28)
          + Development of eyes and spinal cords
          + Faces take shape
          + Fetuses grow from 5-10 mm to 14-15 mm
          + Organogenesis begins-- Embryos are at their most susceptible
            to defects
          + Days 26 - 32 are the best days to palpitate (i.e.. feel for
            the puppies)
          + Possible clear vaginal discharge
          + Mammary development begins
          + After Day 26, palpitation may be possible to diagnose
          + Limit strenuous activity (such as working, jumping, long
          + Add 1/4 cup cottage cheese or a hard boiled egg to food on
            alternating days
          + Schedule ultrasound or palpitation with vet if desired
  Week Five (Days 29-35)
          + Development of toes, whisker buds, and claws
          + Fetuses look like dogs
          + Gender can be determined
          + Eyes (previously open) now close
          + Fetuses grow from 18 mm - 30 mm
          + Organogenesis ends -- embryos are fairly resistant to
            interference with development
          + Swelling becomes noticeable
          + Loss of "tuck-up"
          + Weight will start to increase
          + Slightly increase amount of food and switch to puppy kibble.
            If you feed one meal a day, add an extra meal. If you feed
            twice a day, slightly increase one of the meals.
          + Add daily multi-vitamin
          + Palpitation no longer possible due to fluids in uterus
          + Nothing special this week
  Week Six (Days 36-42)
          + Development of skin pigment
          + Fetuses should weigh around 6 grams and be 45 mm long
          + Fetal heartbeats can be heard with stethoscope
          + Nipples darken and enlarge
          + Abdomen continues to enlarge
          + Add cottage cheese or hard boiled egg to food daily
          + Increase the amount of food in the extra meal
          + Bitch should start sleeping in whelping box
          + Assemble whelping box
          + By this time you should be fairly sure that the bitch is
            pregnant. Notify the people on your puppy list. Let them know
            when you expect delivery.
  Week Seven (Days 43-49)
          + Growth and development continues
          + Abdomen hair will start shedding
          + The bitch will start to look pregnant at this point
          + Slightly increase both meals
          + Stop any roughhousing or jumping
          + Radiographs (X-rays) possible to determine number and size of
  Week Eight (Days 50-57)
          + Fetal movement can be detected when bitch is at rest
          + Puppies can safely be born from now on
          + Milk may be squeezed from nipples
          + The bitch will be very large.
          + Add moderate lunch
          + Gather whelping kit (see below)
          + Prepare phone list for help/support. It should include your
            vet's phone number, the emergency clinic's phone number, the
            number of any friends who will be offering support during
            whelping, and anyone else you might need to contact before,
            during, or after whelping (like your office to let them know
            you won't be in!)
          + Make sure your car is gassed up and ready for a possible
            emergency trip to the vet's office.
  Week Nine (Days 58-65)
          + Growth and Development continues
          + Nesting behavior may be seen
          + Bitch may become distressed (panting, pacing, acting
          + Temperature should be around 100.2-100.8 degrees Farenheit
          + When temperature drops to around 98-99.4 degrees Farenheit,
            puppies should be born within 24 hours
          + Appetite may disappear as whelping approaches
          + Start taking temperature three times a day
          + Notify vet or emergency clinic when temperature drops so that
            they will be ready if you have any problems
          + Keep detailed records on temperature and behavior of bitch
          + Double check that whelping supplies are ready
  Post Partum
     * Make sure each puppy gets some of the bitch's colostrum (first
       milk) within first 24 hours.
     * Lochia (vaginal discharge) should be reddish to reddish-brown
       (green is okay on first day). If you see black discharge, contact
       your vet immediately!
     * Within 5-6 hours of last puppy's birth, take bitch and puppies to
       vet for check up. The vet will ensure that the bitch hasn't
       retained any puppies or placentas and that the puppies are in good
       health. You especially want to check for cleft palates as these
       puppies probably won't survive and should be euthanized now.
Preparing Your Whelping Kit

          Have your car ready in case you have to make a quick trip to
          the vet's office. Ideally, you'll have someone to drive while
          you sit with the bitch. Take some towels with you because it is
          very common for the bitch to start delivering with the motion
          of the car. You should protect your car's carpeting or
          upholstery with a sheet or blanket that can be washed. Make
          sure the car is gassed up and ready to go. If you need to make
          the trip, you don't want to have to delay for things like that.
   Whelping Box
          A box with sides large enough for the bitch to stretch out
          comfortably. She and the pups will live in the box for the
          first few weeks. The whelping box should have guard rails (also
          called pig rails) extending from the sides to protect the
          puppies from their mother rolling over on them.
          Keep a good supply of newspapers on hand to line the whelping
          box during the actual whelping. As the papers become messy, you
          can just put a new layer down and clean the whole thing up when
          the whelping is over.
   Trash Can
          Keep a trash can on hand for use during the whelping and while
          the pups are growing up. Trust me -- puppies are messy!
   Incubator Box
          You'll need a smaller box on hand to put the puppies in when
          Mom is delivering another puppy. You don't want the pups to get
          cold so line it with a towel and keep it near a heat source or
          put a heating pad under the towel. A clean laundry basket works
          well for this -- and is easy to carry when you need to take the
          pups to the vet for their first checkup.
   Sharp Safety Scissors
          For cutting the umbilical cord.
   Quick Stop Powder
          To stop bleeding, if there is any, after cutting umbilical
          For cleaning umbilical cord end after cut.
   Hemostat forceps
          For clamping off the umbilical cord prior to cutting it. You
          can use two and tear the cord as an alternative to cutting it.
          This helps inhibit bleeding.
   Dental Floss
          For tying off the umbilical cord after cutting it.
   Surgical Gloves
          Use if you have to help deliver the puppies.
   Digital Thermometer
          For checking the bitch's temperature in the day's before her
          due date.
   Bulb Syringe
          For helping clear out puppies who are born with problems.
          Puppies always seem to come in the middle of the night and if
          you need to let your bitch go outside, you'll need to keep a
          close eye on her. A good strong flashlight will make that
   Leash and flat buckle collar
          Same reason as above. If you take her out on a leash, she's
          less likely to disappear into a dark corner and leave a puppy
          there without your knowledge.
          For timing the whelping and the time between puppies.
          For recording details. The puppy sheets mentioned in the record
          keeping sheet will work as well.
   Rickrack Ribbon
          For identifying puppies. Tie a loose bit around each pups neck
          when you check them out and weigh them after birth.
   Food Scale
          For weighing the puppies at birth and daily thereafter.
   Heating Lamp
          A 100 watt bulb installed with a dimmer switch in one corner of
          the box will allow puppies to move toward the heat if they are
          too cool. The dimmer switch will allow you to control the heat.
          If the weather is very hot, you should keep a fan on hand. This
          is more for the mother than the pups. Don't set the fan up to
          blow directly on the pups but rather to move the air across the
          top of the whelping box. If the mother is panting a lot in the
          whelping box once she's finished and has rested, set the fan up
          so that she can cool down and be comfortable with the puppies.
   Whelping Box Pads or Blankets
          While the pups are still in the whelping box, you'll need to
          keep a blanket or pad in their box. This pad will need to be
          changed twice a day or more, depending on how well the dam
          cleans up after the pups. A piece of fleece with a towel sewn
          to the back the same size as the whelping box makes a great
          pad. They can be washed and bleached to keep them clean. Having
          four on hand will keep you from having to do endless laundry.
          Don't put these pads in the whelping box until the whelping is
Whelping the Litter

   Well, it's show time! Your bitch is ready and, hopefully, so are you!
   On day 58 after the first breeding, you'll want to start taking your
   bitch's temperature three times a day. A bitch's temperature will drop
   from around 101.4 to 99 degrees Fahrenheit or below a few hours before
   she is ready to whelp. A fluctuation in temperature is very normal,
   what you are looking for is a dramatic drop to below 99F. The
   temperature drop is the best indicator of imminent whelping. Other
   signs of imminent whelping are restlessness, discomfort, licking and
   looking at vulva. The bitch may refuse food prior to whelping as well.
   She will probably pant heavily.
   These are all signs that whelping is imminent. Call your veterinarian
   and let them know that the whelping is beginning so that they will be
   ready to answer any questions or give advice if you have any problems.
   The bitch will start pushing and straining at some point and may start
   digging at the bedding. She'll pant heavily between contractions. The
   contractions should be visible in the muscles along her back. You'll
   see them start at the top of her body and move down.
   If labor continues an hour or so without producing a puppy, let the
   bitch go outside and walk around. This can help the labor progress.
   Also, the urge to push can feel, to the bitch, as if she has to
   defecate. A well-trained bitch will not want to break housetraining
   and will fight the urge to push, delaying labor. If the bitch is
   willing to go outdoors, keep a close eye on her. A maiden bitch, in
   particular, may not know what to do with a new puppy and may abandon
   If labor continues for more than three hours without producing a
   puppy, call your vet! You will probably need to take the bitch into
   the vet.
   Assuming labor continues normally, the contractions will come faster
   and the bitch will start pushing seriously. The water sac will appear,
   probably break, and then the puppy will be delivered shortly. The
   placenta may or may not be ready to be delivered at this point. You
   can gently pull on the cord to see if it will come but you should
   never pull on the puppy to check. You may pull the cord off the puppy
   and risk an umbilical hernia.
   The bitch may want to eat the placentas. Opinions vary about whether
   or not this is a good idea. Some people think it's good nutrition for
   the bitch when she's exerting great effort. Others feel that the bitch
   will get diarrhea from eating them. Some breeders compromise by
   letting the bitch eat one and then keeping them away from her.
   Whatever you do, you want to make sure that you have a placenta for
   each puppy born. If the bitch should retain a placenta, she is at risk
   of having a serious uterine infection.
   If you want to do this, you'll need to clear the water sac away from
   the puppy's nose and mouth first. Hold the puppy upside down to help
   drain fluid and mucus from its nose and throat. Rub the puppy very
   vigorously -- even roughly -- with a dry, clean towel until the puppy
   squeaks. This rubbing will both clean the puppy and stimulate it to
   start breathing.
   Many people allow the bitch to clean the puppy and chew off the
   umbilical cord. Others worry that the bitch may chew the cord off too
   close to the puppy resulting in an umbilical hernia and choose to deal
   with this themselves just to be safe. If you choose to do the task
   yourself, you'll want to cut the cord about 1" away from the body and
   tie it with plain dental floss. Dip the tip and the floss in Betadine
   solution (or another disinfectant such as iodine). It will dry up and
   drop off in a day or so.
   Once the pup is breathing and clean, whether you did it or the dam did
   it, you'll want to check the puppy out carefully, weigh and measure
   the pup, check for abnormalities such as cleft palate, and identify
   the puppy in some way. Rickrack ribbon works very well. Measure and
   cut a piece large enough to tie loosely around the puppy's neck. This
   is only necessary if your puppies are very similar. Other ways to mark
   the puppies include clipping bits of their fur on different parts of
   their bodies or marking them with nail polish.
   If the bitch is having a break between puppies, you should let the
   puppy nurse. The colostrom (milk produced in the first 24 hours) is
   extremely important for the puppies. It carries immunities that
   protect the puppies from infection. The puppy's nursing will also
   stimulate the bitch's contractions allowing her labor to progress.
   Take a chance to rest and relax while you can. Don't worry, however,
   if you can't get the puppies on the dam right away. They can go
   several hours without getting milk with no problem. Once labor starts
   up again, move the puppies into to the incubator box for safety while
   the dam is distracted.
   Very often there will be a longish break between puppies about half
   way through. You can take the bitch outside, although she may not want
   to leave the puppies (you should encourage her!). Again, you'll want
   to keep a close eye on her to make sure she doesn't deliver a puppy
   out there and not know what to do with it.
   The puppies can come as quickly as 15 minutes apart or as long as an
   hour apart. If the bitch goes more than an hour and you are think
   there are more puppies, call your vet! There may be a puppy stuck and
   you'll want to ensure that you get it out as soon as possible.
   When your bitch is finished whelping, you'll notice her calm down. Her
   breathing will slow and the contractions will stop. You should take
   the bitch and her puppies to the vet within the next four or five
   hours if at all possible. Don't go more than 24 hours without having
   them checked out. If the bitch has a retained puppy or placenta, she
   is at risk for serious infection. If any of the puppies have cleft
   palates or other deformities, you need to know as soon as possible.
   Such puppies are usually humanely euthanized by your vet as they are
   generally not likely to live.
   There are a variety of problems you may run into. Again, keep your vet
   and/or emergency vet's phone number handy in case you run into a
   situation you aren't prepared for. If you have any question about what
   is happening or what you should do next, don't hesitate to call the
   vet. You really are dealing with life or death situations and it's
   much better to be safe than sorry.
   Some breeders suggest keeping some drugs on hand to help the bitch
   should she have trouble delivering. You can discuss this with your vet
   but I don't recommend this practice. This drug is very strong and can
   cause serious complications if the problem is a large puppy blocking
   the birth canal. A better option is to keep in contact with your vet
   and take your bitch in if necessary.
   There are some alternative medications that many breeders are using
   and recommending now that have similar results without the risk of
   injury. For a bitch whose labor is slowing down, there is a
   homeopathic treatment called Caulophyllum (Blue Cohash). This should
   be administered when the bitch is in a non-productive labor. Do not
   use it unless the bitch is clearly in labor. For puppies-in-distress,
   you can try a product called Bach's Rescue Remedy. It is a good gentle
   "kick start" for pups in trouble. You would just put a couple of drops
   on the puppies tongue. The nice thing about these remedies is that
   they can't be overused. They are extremely gentle. Detractors from
   homeopathic or alternative measures will tell you that these
   treatments won't do anything, good or bad. (For more information on
   this topic, see the Resource section below. There are a couple of
   books on Natural Health.)
   The first problem you might see is a bitch that starts labor but
   doesn't proceed to delivering. First you should try walking her around
   outside to see if that helps her relax enough to start pushing. If
   that doesn't work in about 15 minutes, you can try a technique called
   "feathering." Put on surgical gloves and apply a small amount of
   lubricant such as KY Jelly. Gently, gently, gently insert one finger
   into the bitch's vulva and gently tickle -- or feather -- her along
   the top of her vagina. This can help stimulate stronger contractions.
   If this doesn't produce a quick result or the bitch is getting tired
   at all, call your vet. You will probably be making a trip in to get
   some expert care.
   The vet will probably x-ray your bitch to determine how many puppies
   are waiting to be born and whether or not you are dealing with a
   malpresentation (puppy trying to go out the wrong way). If all looks
   well, the vet will probably give your bitch injections of calcium
   and/or pituitary oxitocin. These injections often stimulate strong
   contractions and get the labor moving along. If they don't work, or if
   you are dealing with an overly large puppy or a malpresentation, the
   vet will probably recommend a cesarian section. C-sections should not
   be taken lightly but they are often unavoidable. They are very
   expensive and put the life of the mother and puppies at great risk.
   You should decide at this time whether or not you want the vet to spay
   your bitch during the C-section. Sometimes, there won't be any choice.
   If the uterus is badly damaged or infected, they will have to spay
   your bitch at this time. Once you reach the point of a c-section, many
   of the decisions will be taken out of your hands.
   Discussing this possibility with your vet ahead of time is a good idea
   so you can find out what procedures they use and how amenable they are
   to your helping to revive the puppies as they are delivered. Many vets
   will not allow you into their examination area, however, some are
   grateful for the additional hands in reviving puppies. One of the
   biggest problems with a C-section is the anesthesia given the bitch.
   Because the puppies are still attached to her system, they will,
   inevitably, be anesthetized as well. It is really important that your
   vet take this into consideration when anesthetizing the bitch. Many
   vets will mask her down and this is the recommended procedure. This
   means that the vet administers isoflourene gas to start her off,
   rather than administering a drug like Valium-Ketamine (SP?) to put her
   to sleep before starting the gas. If your bitch is high-strung and/or
   aggressive, the vet will probably insist on doing the Valium-Ketamine
   option, but if your bitch is placid and biddable, you should ask that
   they mask her down. The gas is much easier on the puppies systems and
   they will be much easier to revive. The recovery of your bitch will be
   difficult after a c-section. It is major abdominal surgery and puts a
   huge strain on her system. However, if all goes well, she should still
   be able to care for and nurse her litter. Your vet will give you
   detailed instructions for her care. They will often prescribe
   antibiotics to help her avoid infection. You should be careful
   administering any antibiotics as they will generally cause both the
   dam and the pups to have diarrhea.
   A case when you won't have time to get to the vet is when you can't
   get a puppy breathing. Every puppy should be rubbed vigorously until
   they squeak and start moving around. Some of them are born with a
   squeak and don't need any additional help but more often than we'd
   like, puppies need extra help. If the vigorous rubbing doesn't work,
   you'll want to act quickly. The fastest way to get fluid out of the
   puppy's throat and nose is to hold the puppy firmly and raise it above
   your head and swing it quickly down between your legs. The centrifugal
   force can clear the nose and throat. Make sure that you support the
   puppy's head and neck while you do this so its delicate neck is not
   damaged. If this doesn't work, you can try using a bulb syringe to
   aspirate any possible fluid. While you are working on the pup, keep
   rubbing it vigorously and make sure it stays warm. Hopefully you'll be
   rewarded with that gasp of life and a healthy puppy.
   At some point, however, you may have to give up on a puppy. This is an
   extremely difficult decision but if you've worked on the puppy for 15
   minutes without response, you are unlikely to revive the puppy.
   Consult with your veterinarian about what to do with the dead puppy.
   Sadly, this isn't an uncommon event in a whelping.
   Again, there is no shame in calling your vet for help. If you are
   unsure what to do or are presented with a situation you or your bitch
   don't understand. Get professional help!
   Once the whelping is over, you'll be ready to let the new family
   settle d own and get some well-deserved rest. And you'll need that
   rest yourself. Make sure the bitch has relieved herself and gotten
   some fluids. Give her a sponge bath so she is clean and fresh. Feeding
   her chicken broth with rice is a good first meal after whelping as it
   will be gentle on her stomach but give her plenty of fluid and
   A first-time mother may have some serious doubts about these puppies,
   particularly if the delivery was painful for her. This is another time
   where obedience training comes in handy. It is extremely important
   that you get the puppies nursing both for their sake and hers. Put the
   bitch on a down-stay, get in the whelping box with her to reassure
   her, and put the puppies on her. If she growls or complains, just keep
   her head away from the puppies. She's going to be tired and won't
   fight you too much -- besides, she's used to obeying your commands,
   right? The obvious benefit here is that the pups will get that
   necessary colostrum which will provide them with their mother's
   immunities. The added benefit, however, is that the nursing triggers
   the release of hormones into her bloodstream. These hormones help
   promote the bitch's mothering instincts. The more the puppies nurse,
   the more loving the mother will feel towards them. (It's true of
   humans as well.) Hopefully, the bitch will settle down and feel
   content as the puppies nurse. You should still supervise her with the
   puppies until you are sure she has fully accepted them and her new
Raising Puppies Timeline

  Week One (Days 1-7)
          + 90% of time spent sleeping
          + 10% eating
          + Susceptible to heat/cold
          + Instinctive reflexes: crawl, seek warmth, nurse
          + They can right themselves if placed upside down
          + Needs stimulation for urination/defecation
          + Rapid development of central nervous system
          + Need constant care from bitch
          + Rectal temperatures 94-97 degrees Farenheit
          + Pups may lose 10% of weight after birth, but should start
            gaining again
          + Weight should double by end of week
          + Chart weight daily (2 x daily first 2 days)
          + Examine puppies daily
          + Trim nails weekly
          + Keep whelping box around 85 degrees Farenheit (this means if
            it's hotter than that out, put a fan in the room or turn on
            the air conditioning, if it's colder than that get a heat
            lamp to put above the whelping box)
          + When you handle the puppies, it's a good idea use a towel
            when you hold them. The puppies urinate upon stimulation and
            will inevitably find your attention stimulating!
          + If your breed requires tail, ear, or dew claw docking,
            schedule this with your vet.
          + Keep dam on fluids for first 24 hours (i.e.. chicken broth,
          + Feed three full meals a day after that
          + Supplement with 250 mg Vitamin C twice daily
          + If puppies are fussy, supplement bitch with Vitamin B complex
          + Check mammary glands twice daily (looking for signs of
            mastitis -- swelling, hardness, pus, etc.)
          + Keep an eye on vaginal discharge (looking for signs of
          + Make sure bitch eats, drinks, and relieves herself
          + Keep detailed records on puppies' weight and behavior
          + Keep charting bitch's temperature
          + Call puppy buyers with results of whelping
  Week Two (Days 8-14)
          + Eyes should open around days 8-10
          + Ears should open around days 13-17
          + Temperatures should be around 97-99F
          + Keep whelping box around 80-83F
          + Begin holding puppies in different ways (applying light
          + Trim nails weekly
          + Bitch should get three times her normal amount of food
          + Continue as above
  Week Three (Days 15-21)
          + Teeth begin to erupt
          + Puppies stand up and start walking
          + Begin to lap liquids
          + Defecate/urinate without stimulation
          + Start becoming aware of environment
          + Start playing with littermates
          + Develop sense of smell
          + Puppies will start to discriminate as to where to relieve
          + Start adding stimuli (toys) to puppies' life
          + Start giving specific stresses when handling (i.e.. pinch an
            ear or toe gently).
          + Start giving pups milk replacer to lap for one meal a day --
            after two days, add some very mushy food
          + Weigh puppies every 2 days
          + Give puppies a dirty shirt of yours to play with
          + Start weekly grooming sessions (brush, trim nails, look at
            teeth, etc.)
          + Continue as above
          + Purchase milk replacer to feed puppies
  Week Four (Days 22-28)
          + Begin to eat food
          + Begin to bark, wag tails, bite, paw, bare teeth, growl and
          + Use legs well
          + Tire easily
          + Depth perception starts
          + Keep mom with them a lot! Things can get overwhelming at this
            age and Mom will add stability for them
          + Each pup needs individual attention
          + Offer food that is the consistency of cooked oatmeal
          + Continue as above
          + Start limiting bitch's access to pups before offering them
  Week Five (Days 29-35)
          + Group activities and sexual play will begin
          + Dominance order starts
          + Rapid growth/development
          + Reduce fluids in puppies' food
          + Make sure other people start coming to see pups
          + Begin weaning
          + Play radio at normal volume near pups for 5 minutes at a time
          + Start reducing amount of food to discourage milk development
          + Keep a careful eye on mammary glands
          + Discuss vaccination schedule with veterinarian
  Week Six (Days 26-42)
          + Growth and development continue
          + Offer soft, damp food
          + Chart weekly weight
          + Individual attention crucial -- give each puppy time with you
            away from litter
          + To prepare bitch for weaning: Day 1 -- no food
            Day 2 -- 1/4 normal maintenance meal
            Day 3 -- 1/2 normal maintenance meal
            Day 4 -- 3/4 normal maintenance meal
            Day 5 -- full amount of normal maintenance meal
          + Keep bitch on puppy food for several weeks to help her
            recover from the strain of breeding, whelping, and raising
          + Keep careful eye on mammary glands
          + Continue as above
  Week Seven (Days 43-49)
          + Total hearing/visual capacity
          + Will investigate anything
          + Can't respond yet to name
          + Pups should be weaned and on regular puppy food
          + Pups can go to new homes
          + Keep careful eye on mammary glands until milk is completely
            dried up
  Week Eight (Days 50-56)
          + First fear period
          + Starts learning name
          + Don't ship puppies
          + Can start training puppies in small steps
          + Continue as above
          + Continue as above
  Week Nine (Days 57-63)
          + Develops strong dominant and subordinate behavior among
          + Begins to learn right behavior
          + Motor skills improve
          + Short attention span
          + Starts focusing attention on owner rather than other puppies
          + Separate littermates
          + Start house training
          + Continue lots of individual attention
  Week Ten (Days 64-70)
          + Safe to ship puppies by air
   For more information on puppy development and raising, see Your New
   Puppy FAQ.
Finding And Dealing With Puppy Buyers

   Finding good homes for your puppies should be one of your highest
   priorities. This is not an easy task but it is a very rewarding one.
   Matching the right dog with the right family is a great feeling!
   Responsible breeders try to have a list of interested buyers before
   they do the breeding -- or at least before they whelp the litter. As
   stated before, there is a serious pet overpopulation problem in this
   country and no litter should be bred without a purpose. That purpose
   should include providing wanted puppies to good homes.
   The most effective way to find homes is by connecting into the network
   of breeders in your area. This is best done by finding a breed or
   kennel club in your area, joining, becoming active, and taking
   advantage of their resources. Many clubs publish litter listings in
   their newsletters and then club members refer callers to those
   litters. This is another way that your active participation in
   showing, training, and working your dog makes you a better breeder. By
   building a network of resources doing these activities, you open
   yourself up to puppy referrals.
   Advertising can be useful but should be done with care. Many breeders
   advertise upcoming litters in breed publications. Newspaper ads should
   be considered a last resort as you should have homes lined up before
   the puppies are born.
   When word gets out that you are doing a breeding, you'll probably
   start getting phone calls from potential buyers. You should carefully
   screen these buyers over the telephone and ideally in person before
   putting them on your puppy list. The type of information you should be
   trying to get from the buyers should focus on their potential as dog
   owners. Try to evaluate their intentions and their understanding of
   what is involved in raising, training, and caring a dog. You should
   try to evaluate their home in terms of things like whether or not they
   have a fenced yard, if they will be able to provide the type of
   exercise appropriate to the dog. If your breed has special grooming
   considerations, you should make sure that they understand these as
   Part of your job as a breeder is acting as a counselor of sorts to
   your puppy buyers. In addition to the above information, you'll want
   to make sure they understand all the health concerns for your breed.
   If they don't ask the right questions, you should be prepared to fill
   them in on the information while explaining everything you have done
   to avoid these problems. Also, make sure that a puppy is the right
   choice for them. When I'm screening puppy buyers, I end up referring a
   lot of them to Rescue organizations if I don't think that they have
   the time or energy to raise a young puppy.
   Most breeders provide a packet of information with their puppies.
   These packets include the bill of sale, any health guarantees (as
   discussed below), details on what the dog should be fed, details on
   what shots and worming the dog has been given, etc. Puppy packets can
   also include descriptions of the breed, pedigrees, photos and health
   clearances on the parents, information on training, and other items of
   A breeder should be willing to make a lifelong commitment to the
   puppies they produce. They should be willing to answer questions or
   concerns at any time in the dog's life. Many breeders make a further
   commitment to take back a dog at any time in the future should the
   owner's be unable to keep the dog. People's lives can change with
   little or no notice and dog's sometimes suffer. Rather than seeing one
   of their puppies end up in the pound, breeders often put a "right of
   first refusal" into their contracts.
   The AKC has recently started offering limited registrations. This is a
   great option for breeders who want to ensure that the puppies they
   produce don't get used in the future to add to the pet overpopulation
   problem. Limited registrations mean that the dogs so registered can't
   be shown nor can their offspring be registered with the AKC. The
   breeder can change the registration in the future should the owners
   decide they want to show or breed it. The breeder is the only one who
   can make that change. If you go with this option, you'll want to
   explain this carefully to the pet buyers so that they don't
   misunderstand or have a problem with it when they come to collect
   their puppy.
Health Guarantees

   Every dog breed has health problems associated with it. Responsible
   breeders do everything in their power to avoid these problems in their
   litters. More and more breeders are finding some way to stand behind
   their breeding program by providing guarantees or warrantees on their
   puppies. The details will change depending on the breed and the types
   of problems seen in the particular breed. You'll have to decide what
   you want to guarantee. Many people offer money or a replacement puppy
   upon receipt of proof of the particular problem.
   One example is with hip dysplasia: many breeds have a problem with
   dysplasia and it is extremely common to evaluate the parents' hips.
   However, even with these measures, there is no way to ensure that the
   puppies won't be affected. If the puppies end up having problems, some
   breeders will refund the purchase price with the intention of easing
   the veterinary bills for the owners. Other breeders will offer a
   replacement puppy to the owners for sometime in the future. Some
   breeders insist that the affected puppies are returned. Some breeders
   will insist that the affected puppy be spayed or neutered before
   honoring their guarantees. Whatever you do, you need to be very clear
   with your buyers about your policies to avoid problems in the future.
Financial Considerations

   Many people go into breeding thinking that it's a great way to make
   some easy money. Nothing could be further from the truth. Done
   correctly, breeding is rarely a money-making venture. If there are any
   problems at all , breeding generally becomes a financial disaster. So,
   you have to be prepared for possible expenses that may or may not
   occur. Keeping a credit card cleared off in case it's needed can be a
   good way to handle this type of problem.
   Most breeders get a deposit of some sort from potential buyers at some
   point during the process. Some breeders require a deposit before
   putting buyers on their list. Some don't accept deposits until the
   puppies are born and they are sure they have a puppy for the buyer.
   Whatever you decide to do, please be sure to carefully explain under
   what circumstances you will or won't return the deposit so as to avoid
   unpleasantness in the future.
   Whatever your deposit arrangements, you should require payment-in-full
   before turning your puppies over to the new owners. The price of the
   puppies depends on your breed and the market in your area. Ask around
   among other breeders, consider your expenses, and set a fair price for
   your puppies.
   If you have a large litter with no problems, you can expect to pay
   your expenses and, perhaps, make a little extra money. If you have any
   problems at all, including a small litter, you will probably loose
   money on breeding a litter. Done correctly, breeding puppies is no way
   to make your fortune.

   All of the above information is very general, please be aware that
   certain breeds have very specific needs and/or problems during
   breeding, whelping, and puppy rearing. Please contact your breeder or
   veterinarian or refer to a good book on your breed for more
   information on how to deal with these specific issues.
   _Canine Reproduction_, Phyllis A Holst, MS, DVM, Alpine Publications,
   _Dog Breeding for Professionals_, Dr. Herbert Richards, TFH
   Publications, Inc., 1978.
   _Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook_, second edition, Delbert G
   Carlson, DVM and James M Giffin, MD, Howell Book House, 1992.
   _The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog_, Margaret Ruth Smith and Ann
   Serrane, Howell Book House, 1980.
   _Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats_,
   Richard H Pitcairn, DVM and Susan Hubble Pitcairn, Rodale Press, 1995.
   _Successful Dog Breeding_, Chris Walkowicz & Bonnie Wilcox, DVM,
   Howell Book House, 1994.
   _AKC Gazette_, August 1995.
  Web Resources
     * AKC Policies and Guidelines for Registration Matters
     * Lactation in Dogs and Cats
     * Responsible Breeding of Female Chihuahuas
     * Should I Breed My Poodle?
     * Things to Think About Before You Breed Your Dog
     * Breeding Medical Information
    Breeding, Whelping, and Rearing Puppies FAQ
    Liza Lee Miller,
                                 Hosted by
                                  K9 WEB 

User Contributions:

Mar 14, 2023 @ 1:01 am
Regardless if you believe in God or not, this message is a "must-read"!!!

Throughout history, we can see how we have been slowly conditioned to come to this point where we are on the verge of a cashless society. Did you know that the Bible foretold of this event almost 2,000 years ago?

In the book of Revelation 13:16-18, we read,

"He (the false prophet who deceives many by his miracles--Revelation 19:20) causes all, both small and great, rich and poor, free and slave, to receive a mark on their right hand or on their foreheads, and that no one may buy or sell except one who has the mark or the name of the beast, or the number of his name.

Here is wisdom. Let him who has understanding calculate the number of the beast, for it is the number of a man: His number is 666."

Speaking to the last generation, this could only be speaking of a cashless society. Why? Revelation 13:17 states that we cannot buy or sell unless we receive the mark of the beast. If physical money was still in use, we could buy or sell with one another without receiving the mark. This would contradict scripture that states we need the mark to buy or sell!

These verses could not be referring to something purely spiritual as scripture references two physical locations (our right hand or forehead) stating the mark will be on one "OR" the other. If this mark was purely spiritual, it would indicate both places, or one--not one OR the other!

This is where it comes together. It is incredible how accurate the Bible is concerning the implantable RFID microchip. These are notes from a man named Carl Sanders who worked with a team of engineers to help develop this RFID chip:

"Carl Sanders sat in seventeen New World Order meetings with heads-of-state officials such as Henry Kissinger and Bob Gates of the C.I.A. to discuss plans on how to bring about this one-world system. The government commissioned Carl Sanders to design a microchip for identifying and controlling the peoples of the world—a microchip that could be inserted under the skin with a hypodermic needle (a quick, convenient method that would be gradually accepted by society).

Carl Sanders, with a team of engineers behind him, with U.S. grant monies supplied by tax dollars, took on this project and designed a microchip that is powered by a lithium battery, rechargeable through the temperature changes in our skin. Without the knowledge of the Bible (Brother Sanders was not a Christian at the time), these engineers spent one-and-a-half-million dollars doing research on the best and most convenient place to have the microchip inserted.

Guess what? These researchers found that the forehead and the back of the hand (the two places the Bible says the mark will go) are not just the most convenient places, but are also the only viable places for rapid, consistent temperature changes in the skin to recharge the lithium battery. The microchip is approximately seven millimeters in length, .75 millimeters in diameter, about the size of a grain of rice. It is capable of storing pages upon pages of information about you. All your general history, work history, criminal record, health history, and financial data can be stored on this chip.

Brother Sanders believes that this microchip, which he regretfully helped design, is the “mark” spoken about in Revelation 13:16–18. The original Greek word for “mark” is “charagma,” which means a “scratch or etching.” It is also interesting to note that the number 666 is actually a word in the original Greek. The word is “chi xi stigma,” with the last part, “stigma,” also meaning “to stick or prick.” Carl believes this is referring to a hypodermic needle when they poke into the skin to inject the microchip."

Mr. Sanders asked a doctor what would happen if the lithium contained within the RFID microchip leaked into the body. The doctor replied by saying a terrible (...)

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Last Update March 27 2014 @ 02:11 PM