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rec.pets.dogs: Old English Sheepdog Breed-FAQ

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Last-modified: 10 Nov 1997

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                           Old English Sheepdogs

     * Kyosti Kulusjarvi [] Oulu, FINLAND
     * Ray Charette []
     * Peggy Anderson []
     * Denise Humphries []
     * Joel Levinson []
     * Aimee Baird Pharr []
   Thanks to:
          Fiona Cheeseman, Ann Freelander, Caj Haakansson, Sharon Hope,
          Marlyn Isaac, Rhonda Paprocki, Dirk Pfeifer, Ray Salmon,
          Lorraine Walsh, Paula Wheeler, Melisande Wolf, the Old English
          Sheepdog Club of America, the New England Old English Sheepdog
          Club for use of their Information Pamphlet, and probably many
          others to whom we apologize for not including.
   And special thanks to Cindy Tittle Moore [], not
   only for her contribution to the FAQ, but also for making this
   document available to the public.
   The authors welcome any comments or suggestions you may have. If you
   would like to see something added or changed, please send e-mail to
   Aimee B. Pharr [].
   Copyright 1995-1996 by the Authors.
                        _IN MEMORY OF CAJ HAAKANSS0N
                     19TH JUNE 1944 - 1ST JANUARY 1996_
   Friend, breeder and judge of the Bobtailed sheepdog
   Respected worldwide for his dedication to the Old English Sheepdog and
   his success as the breeder of over 55 Bahlambs Champions in the United
   States, with many others overseas.
   Caj's support will be sadly missed by the OES-L members.
   At peace with his many great Bobtails, including Int. Ch. Prospect
   Shaggy Boy, Ch. Unnesta Pim and Ch. Millie.
Revision History

   Created 29-Dec-1994 by Kyosti Kulusjarvi
   Modified 25-Mar-1995 by Kulusjarvi, Charette, and Pharr
          Reformatted, edited, and added sections on Characteristics and
          Temperament, Grooming and Coat Care, Obedience, Herding,
          Australia Breed Standard, and Online Information.
   Modified 03-Jan-1996 by Pharr and Humphries
          Reformatted and updated Breed and Rescue Contacts and Online
   Modified 30-Apr-1996 by Pharr
          Removed Breed Clubs and Rescue Contacts and updated Books and
          Online Information.
Table of Contents

     * History of the Breed
     * The Breed Standard
          + American
          + Australian
          + British and European
     * Characteristics and Temperament
     * Grooming and Coat Care
     * Obedience Training
     * Herding
     * Special Medical Problems
     * Frequently Asked Questions
          + Does the OES require a lot of grooming?
          + Does the OES shed?
          + What happened to the tail?
          + Does the OES eat a lot?
          + Is the OES protective of the home and family?
          + How much exercise does the OES require?
          + Does the OES drool?
     * Books
     * Breed Clubs and Rescue Contacts
     * Online Information
History of the Breed

   The origin of the Old English Sheepdog remains a question of keen
   interest to Bobtail fanciers, and is still open to new theories and
   discoveries. However, there are traces of evidence which place its
   origin in the early nineteenth century, centered in the Southwestern
   Counties of England. Some maintain that the Scottish BeardedCollie had
   a large part in the making of the Old English Sheepdog. Others claim
   the Russian Owtchar as one of its progenitors.
   Writings of that time refer to a "drover's dog" which was used
   primarily for driving sheep and cattle to market. It is speculated
   that these drover's dogs were exempt from taxes due to their working
   status. To prove their occupation, their tails were docked, leading to
   the custom of calling the sheepdog by the nickname "Bob" or "Bobtail".
   Although this dog has been used more for driving than for herding, the
   lack of a tail to serve as a rudder, so to speak, has in no way
   affected its ability to work with heavier kinds of sheep or cattle.
   _return to table of contents_
The Breed Standard

   The Standard is the physical "blueprint" of the breed. It describes
   the physical appearance and other desired qualities of the breed
   otherwise known as _type_. Some characteristics, such as size, coat
   quality, and movement, are based on the original (or current) function
   for the dog. Other characteristics are more cosmetic such as eye
   color; but taken together they set this breed apart from all others.
   The Standard describes an _ideal_ representive of the breed. No
   individual dog is perfect, but the Standard provides an ideal for the
   breeder to strive towards.
   Because of copyright concerns over the collection of all the Standards
   at any single site storing all the faqs, AKC Standards are not
   typically included in the Breed faqs. The reader is referred to the
   publications at the end of this document or to the National Breed Club
   for a copy of the Standard.
   _General Appearance:_ A strong compact looking dog of great symmetry;
   absolutely free of legginess; profusely coated all over. All round he
   is a thick-set muscular able-bodied dog, with a most intelligent
   expression; free of all Poodle or Deerhound characteristics.
   _Characteristics:_ The dog stands lower at the shoulder than the loin.
   When walking or trotting has a characteristic ambling or pacing
   movement. His bark should be loud with a peculiar "pot-casse" ring in
   Copyright by Australian National Kennel Control
   For the complete Australian Breed Standard, please refer to the
   Official OES Web Page under The Breed Standard-Australian.
  British and European
   _General Appearance:_ Strong, square looking dog of great symmetry and
   overall soundness. Absolutely free of legginess, profusely coated all
   over. A thick-set, muscular, able-bodied dog with a most intelligent
   expression. The natural outline should not be artificially changed by
   scissoring or clipping.
   _Characteristics:_ Of great stamina, exhibiting a gently rising
   topline, and a pear- shaped body when viewed from above. The gait has
   a typical roll when ambling or walking. Bark has a distinctive toned
   Copyright by The English Kennel Club, 1986
   For the complete British/European Breed Standard, please refer to the
   Official OES Web Page under The Breed Standard-British and European.
   _return to table of contents_
Characteristics and Temperament

   The Old English Sheepdog is a playful, affectionate, fun-loving
   "clown," who delights in frolicking with his family and neighborhood
   children. In fact, adolescence in the OES often extends to
   approximately age three and your adult OES will retain his playful
   demeanor well into his golden years.
   An intelligent breed, the OES is a quick learner, always looking for
   something interesting and fun to do. OES are capable of performing
   numerous tasks - herding, agility, obedience trials, and search and
   rescue. This breed requires significant physical exercise as well as
   mental exercise. If your pup does not receive enough of either, you
   may come home to find the mischief he has so enjoyed in your absence.
   A properly bred OES will be good-natured and kind and this is what
   makes the OES an excellent children's companion and great family dog.
   An old description of the breed refers to the OES as a "Nanny." This
   term of endearment arose because of numerous stories surrounding the
   role of the OES in the family. Some have said that the OES will
   supervise a young child by insuring that the child will remain in a
   particular area by herding him into it. Others have described the OES
   who acts as a means of support to the toddler learning to walk.
   Although the OES is excellent with children, it is extremely important
   to note that children should never be left unsupervised with any dog,
   regardless of breed or temperament.
   When considering owning an OES, you must remember the two biggest
   requirements of the breed: grooming and exercise. If you cannot commit
   to both of these, you may want to consider another one of the many
   wonderful breeds available.
   _return to table of contents_
Grooming and Coat Care

   To properly maintain your dog's coat you will need some basic grooming
   supplies. These include a good quality steel pin brush, coarse steel
   comb, soft slicker brush, nail clippers, a good pair of trimming
   scissors, and a hemostat (to remove the hair from inside the ears). A
   grooming table will make your job a lot easier and prevent your back
   from aching. Once you have the proper equipment, you need to learn the
   correct method of brushing. A young puppy needs very little grooming.
   However, this is the time to teach him to lie on the table and stay
   still while you brush.
   Weekly grooming is very important to keep a coat in good condition. By
   8 or 9 months of age you will start finding mats if the coat is not
   brushed through. Mats can lead to serious skin problems and are most
   uncomfortable for your dog.
   To groom your dog, position him on his side on the grooming table.
   Using your pin brush start at the withers and brush against the grain
   of the hair so that you can see the skin. Brush in a line, a few hairs
   at a time, always getting down to the skin. Remember this is a double
   coat consisting of a soft undercoat and a coarse outer coat. Correct
   brushing lifts and fluffs as the brush removes loose undercoat and
   debris out to the end of the hair. Correct brushing should be a slow
   and gentle motion to avoid pulling out too much coat. A great hint to
   prevent the coat from splitting: lightly spray the dog's coat with
   water or hair conditioner before brushing!
   Once you have a line the length of the dog, go back and start a little
   further with a new line; again getting down to the skin. Continue
   until the side is complete. Now, brush the legs, starting at the foot
   and brushing in the direction of coat growth. Use the comb for more
   difficult areas. Use the slicker brush to groom the ears and muzzle,
   etc., and to fluff the legs. Once finished, stand the dog on the table
   and trim the coat on the feet so that it is even, and just touches the
   table. Use your scissors to trim between the pads and to trim the
   Mats are the biggest problem with an OES coat. If your dog's coat is
   not kept up, he will become matted to the skin and you will have to
   shave or clip him. The coat tends to mat when changing from puppy to
   adult coat. Once the adult coat has emerged, you will find regular
   grooming will keep your dog from matting. When you find a mat,
   separate it with your fingers and then comb the hair a little at a
   time until it begins to come apart. Continue with the same technique
   of pulling the mat apart and combing a little more until the mat is
   removed. Remember, you must get down to the skin and remove all clumps
   of hair. A dog that is matted can take hours to properly groom.
   Patience and a positive attitude are also essential in caring for a
   dog with a matted coat. Separating a small portion of a mat and
   working on one area at a time will get the job done.
   There is no easy way to remove excessive mats from a sheepdog, but you
   will feel a great sense of accomplishment when your dog is groomed and
   mat-free. A coat long-neglected results in a dog that is an unsightly
   mess and that can become infected with parasites and skin infections.
   In cases of severe neglect the coat must be shaved and the dog bathed,
   so the skin can be evaluated.
   Remember, removing mats from your dog will take a lot of time. The OES
   who is having mats removed from his coat is not feeling comfortable
   about this process either. If you can not finish after a few hours,
   take a break and return when rested. It will benefit the both of you!
   _return to table of contents_
Obedience Training

   Obedience training is encouraged for all dogs, but especially for a
   large breed like the OES. The basic commands - sit, down, come and
   stay - are important for everyday living with any dog, but add a wet
   and muddy coat and believe me, these commands become crucial for
   Basic obedience training can start when the puppy is first brought
   home. Don't wait until the dog is six months old or you may have a lot
   more work on your hands! A small piece of food held just-so over the
   pup's head and a light push on the rear while you say "sit" will
   achieve the result you want. The food will help ingrain in the puppy's
   fully developed brain what the word "sit" means. To teach "down,"
   place a piece of food on the floor between the pup's front paws and
   pull forward while gently pushing down on the shoulders and
   simultaneously saying "down." To teach "come," one member of the
   household calls the puppy with a treat as a reward and then another
   person calls the puppy back again. This will teach a nice, fast
   Puppy basics is where it all begins! Even the older sheepdog can learn
   by this method of training. Old English Sheepdogs are very intelligent
   and learn quickly. They can be excellent obedience dogs for
   competition, but be wary that once they know an exercise, they are
   always looking for a way to make it more interesting!
   _return to table of contents_

   The Old English Sheepdog has a tradition in herding livestock going
   back to its origins. The breed was originally used to move livestock
   down the country road to market. This would generally be done with the
   dog (or dogs, depending on the amount of livestock) at the back or
   side of the stock. Unfortunately, today there are few OES that are
   used for this purpose. However, it is possible to find people that
   enjoy herding.
   Herding can be a fun activity for both you and your dog. Most OES love
   the activity and the exercise. They greatly enjoy moving the sheep
   around from place to place. Herding is an activity that creates a very
   special bond between you and your dog. It takes what one might
   consider normal bonding to another level, especially when the dog
   seems to realize that this is what hundreds of years of breeding was
   meant for.
   OES have two different herding styles. Neither is more acceptable than
   the other. Some dogs are natural drivers, moving the stock away from
   the handler, while others are natural fetchers, taking the stock to
   the handler. The important thing is to encourage the dog to do
   whatever comes naturally. In the early stages of training, don't try
   to make the dog do anything that isn't natural. Later, your dog can be
   trained to do many kinds of tasks.
   To get started in herding, find someone who is experienced with dogs
   and livestock so he or she can help you introduce your OES to the
   stock. Sheep are the best stock for this purpose. It is not
   recommended to put a green dog on cattle, and ducks might be too
   small.The introduction is best done in a small pen, generally 80' x
   80' at most in size. With a small pen, the situation will be better
   under your control. It may be tentative at first - your dog has to
   figure out what to do. Once he does, he will generally take off
   running after the sheep! Don't be discouraged if your dog does not
   'turn on' the first time he or she sees stock. Some dogs, including
   OES, need several exposures to start working. In fact, the currently
   top ranked OES in the AKC herding trial program didn't "turn on" to
   livestock until his tenth exposure!
   What can you do with this hobby? First and foremost, HAVE FUN! It is
   an activity that can be exciting and rewarding for both dog and owner.
   In addition, there are several different trial programs that offer
   herding performance titles to people with herding breeds:
     * _American Kennel Club:_ The AKC has a test and trial title program
       available, with five different titles and six different levels.
       Each level requires more difficult work. The levels and titles
       are: HT: Herding Tested, PT: Pre Trial, HS: Herding Started, HI:
       Herding Intermediate, HX: Herding Advanced, and H.CH: Herding
     * _American Herding Breed Association:_ The AHBA also offers tests,
       trials and titles. They are: HCT: Herding Capability Tested, JHD:
       Junior Herding Dog, HTD-I: Herding Trial Dog, level I (Started),
       HTD-II: Herding Trial Dog, level II (Intermediate), and HTD-III:
       Herding Trial Dog, level III (Advanced).
     * _Australian Shepherd Club of America:_ The ASCA offers the
       following trials and titles as well: STD: Started Trial Dog, OTD:
       Open Trial Dog, ATD: Advanced Trial Dog, and RD: Ranch Dog.
   A herding trial is basically an obstacle course set up with a series
   of chutes, pens and panels through which you and your dog take the
   stock. Most of the time, sheep is the preferred stock. However, cattle
   and ducks are also used.
   Trials are a great and fun way to test what you have done in training.
   They can also be an exciting way to spend time with other people who
   love doing the same thing - herding, no matter what the breed!
   _return to table of contents_
Special Medical Problems

   _Hip dysplasia_ is a problem in the breed and can be crippling for a
   dog of this size. It is highly advisable to purchase a puppy from a
   breeder who has received X-ray certification for the joints (hips and
   elbows) of both parents. In the United States, the Orthopedic
   Foundation for Animals (OFA), a well known and respected registry,
   will evaluate the X-rays of dogs and will provide certification for
   dogs, who are at least 24 months of age. In other countries, it is
   usually the official kennel clubs who provide similar certification.
   _Hereditary Cataract_ and _Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA)_ are two
   eye conditions, which are sadly being found in increasing numbers.
   Before buying a puppy, check that the parent's eyes have been checked
   for PRA. This can only be done by a qualified ophthalmologist who
   completes an electroretinography on both dogs. Additionally, as PRA
   can appear later in life (as late as 8 years), it is important to
   verify that the breeder has cleared all dogs' eyes annually, including
   those that are no longer being bred.
   While _Thyroid disorders_ are not unique to the OES, there is a fairly
   high incidence of thyroid disease in the breed. Some of the signs of
   thyroid disease include (but are not limited to) poor coat, either in
   length or brittleness of the fur, and excess lethargy. If you suspect
   a thyroid problem, take your OES to the vet! Diagnosis can be made via
   a simple blood panel. Most vets will complete a T4. This test is
   adequate, but not conclusive. The Michigan State University (MSU)
   Animal Health Diagnostic Lab in Lansing, Michigan, USA performs the
   most complete work-up. If your vet is not familiar with this
   procedure, the phone number for the Diagnostic Lab is (517) 353-1683.
   To keep costs down, some areas offer ThyroidClinics so that dogs may
   be tested and blood work may be sent to MSU in bulk. If your dog is
   diagnosed with thyroid disease, it is simple to treat. Treatment
   consists of daily medication, generally for the life of the dog. The
   food additive, sea kelp, is also helpful. This may be found in a
   product by Solid Gold, called Seameal which may be sprinkled on your
   OES's food. Once diagnosed, your dog's thyroid levels should be
   rechecked yearly.
   For more information on any of these problems, please refer to the
   FAQs entitled Canine Medical Information, Part I and Canine Medical
   Information Part 2, written and maintained by Cindy Tittle Moore.
   _return to table of contents_
Frequently Asked Questions

     Does the OES require a lot of grooming?
     Does the OES shed?
     What happened to the tail?
     Does the OES eat a lot?
     Is the OES protective of the home and family?
     How much exercise does the OES require?
     Does the OES drool?
  Does the OES require a lot of grooming?
   Yes. Yes. Yes. When showing or growing out the initial puppy coat,
   daily grooming is an absolute necessity to avoid mats and tangles. If
   you do not plan to show your OES, a weekly grooming session, taking a
   couple of hours, is satisfactory. For more detailed information on
   grooming, refer to the section entitled Grooming and Coat Care. If you
   are not ready for a lot of grooming, you may want to consider another
  Does the OES shed?
   With daily/weekly grooming sessions, most of the loose hair will be
   removed by the brush. The OES is not considered a "shedding breed" as
   it maintains its dense coat throughout the year. The little hair that
   is shed is relatively easy to remove from carpeting and clothing, more
   so than the short prickly hairs of some of the shorter coated breeds
   (e.g., Dalmatians).
  What happened to the tail?
   As mentioned in the breed standard, the tail is usually docked a few
   days after birth. Dogs are not customarily shown with any more than a
   bob at most. In fact, as late as the 20th century, breeders began
   reporting the birth of tail-less pups. In the United States it is
   difficult to find a breeder who will not dock the tails. However, some
   countries, like Sweden, prohibit docking. In European dog shows, OES
   with tails are as equally acceptable as those without.
   Historically, the docked tail has given a nickname to the breed:
  Does the OES eat a lot?
   During their first year, OES grow from about one pound (500g) to about
   sixty pounds (30kg). When fully grown, they will often weigh between
   70 to 110 lbs. (30-50 kg). Consequently, OES require plenty of food to
   support that growth. Once they reach adulthood, however, they have a
   very low metabolism and do not eat a lot. Of course, the amount of
   food consumed varies significantly depending upon level of exercise,
   individual variation, and climate. Overfeeding an OES is easy to do
   because the profuse coat readily hides extra pounds. It is extremely
   important that you check your dog's weight regularly.
  Is the OES protective of the home and family?
   Some are and some are not. Of course, the sheer size of the OES and
   the barking he will provide is protective in and of itself. However,
   many OES have been known to welcome friends and strangers alike into
   the home. If you are specifically looking for a guard dog, you may
   want to consider another breed.
  How much exercise does the OES require?
   Because of its herding origins, an OES should be exercised regularly.
   The amount of exercise required will vary depending upon the dog's
   age. Puppies have a lot of energy, so much so that they will use it to
   destroy your home if they do not have daily outlets. On the other
   hand, aging dogs often prefer to lay on the couch and will need
   substantially less exercise. Between those extremes, 1-2 hours of
   daily exercise should be sufficient. It is important to note that the
   OES can readily adjust to less exercise, but this is not particularly
   healthy for him.
   OES are very capable participants in sheep herding and agility trials,
   both of which demand a healthy and physically fit dog. The amount of
   daily exercise is really left to the owner's discretion. Be sure to
   adjust your dog's food intake to the amount of exercise he receives.
   Finally, DO NOT exercise your OES when the weather is hot. Their dense
   undercoat is extremely warm and the dog can get overheated easily and
   quickly. One way to exercise your OES when it is too hot is to
   exercise his mind. Searching for a toy, playing hide and seek, opening
   boxes to find goodies within, and teaching him new tricks are all
   favorite pastimes.
  Does the OES drool?
   Some do and some do not. Some will drool so much that the coat under
   their mouth turns yellow. If this happens, a regular washing,
   especially after meals, will help. Another method in keeping a
   "wet-beard" dry, is to apply cornstarch to the beard. Once the
   cornstarch has completely dried, brush it out. Also, this works well
   when an OES has diarrhea.
   Even though your OES may drool, it will not be as big of a problem as
   it is with the St. Bernard or Newfoundland.
   _return to table of contents_

   Berkowitz, Mona. (1967). _How to Raise and Train an Old English
   Sheepdog._ TFH Publications: Neptune, N.J. A small booklet by a
   long-time breeder, exhibitor, and judge. A new printing is currently
   Boyer, Alice J. (1978). _Your Old English Sheepdog._ Dentinger's:
   Fairfax, VA Hardback, illus., 160 pages.
   Brearley, Joan McDonald. (1989). _The Old English Sheepdog._ TFH
   Publications: Neptune, N.J. ISBN 0-86622-710-5. An update to the 1974
   publication by Brearley and Anderson, it contains some interesting
   photos of the early days of the breed in the United States.
   Carriere, Monique. (1993). _Care and Grooming of Old English
   Sheepdogs._ Best Read Books Ltd.: Ottawa, Ontario CANADA. ISBN
   0-9693044-1-2. This book contains a wealth of information on the OES,
   from the history of the breed to every aspect of choosing, purchasing
   and training a puppy. It also offers sections on bathing, grooming,
   breeding and dog health. Very complete. 172 pages.
   Davis, Ann. (1973). _The Old English Sheepdog._ Howell Book House: New
   York. Mrs. Davis is an English breeder and judge. Her book includes
   some information on American dogs and breeders as well. Limited number
   of illustrations. 166 pages plus index.
   Gould, Jean. (1988). _All About the Old English Sheepdog._ Pelham
   Books (Penguin Group): London, England. ISBN 0-7207-1809-0. Although a
   bit outdated now, this book contains some good information on choosing
   a puppy, conformation, and grooming. There are some photos of well
   known dogs and pedigrees that might be of interest to owners tracing
   their pedigrees back. Also a chapter on spinning OES wool for the
   really keen.
   Hampden Edwards, George. (1977). _Old English Sheepdogs in Australia_.
   Wentworth Books: Sydney, Australia. Hardcover. Contains references to
   selected OES in Australia and many unscientific theories on health
   care. Illustrations are scaper board drawings by the author. 166
   Hopwood, Aubrey. (1905). _The Old English Sheepdog from Puppyhood to
   Championship_. Bickers & Son: UK. Hardcover. An early work on the
   breed (published late last centruy or early this century) which has
   become an important reference for those interested in history.
   Describes the origins of the OES as a working dog. Collector's item.
   106 pages, 31 illustrations.
   Keeling, Jill. (1975). _The Old English Sheepdog._ Arco-Foyles
   Handbooks: New York, Revised Ed. Older editions may still be found.
   Originally published by Foyles Handbooks of London in 1961.
   Mandeville, John. (1976). _The Complete Old English Sheepdog._ Howell
   Book House: New York. Especially valuable for its wealth of detail
   about the early-day dogs and breeders in the U.S. Photos included. 287
   Mogford, Gwen. (1985). _My Inheritance_. Bernard Kaymar Ltd.: Preston,
   UK. Softcover/Illus. An historical record of the OES, containing many
   photographs of OES from the last century and pre WWII. Also presents
   show critiques and information on early breeders and kennels. 324
   Muller, Barbara._Bobtail Old English Sheepdog. Hunderessen Urs
   Ochsenbein_ Written by a well known Swiss breeder. Includes
   photographs of European, and overseas OES. A knowledge of German or
   Swiss would help enjoyment of this book
   Pisano, Beverly. (1980). _Old English Sheepdogs._ TFH Publications:
   Neptune, N.J. ISBN 0-87666-723-X. A hardback book of 125 pages with
   basic comments about ownership and showing of the Bobtail.
   Schneider, Earl (ed.). _Know Your Old English Sheepdog._ The Pet
   Library LTD: New York. Year of publication not identified, but this
   would have been from the late 1960's. A small booklet, interesting
   mostly for its color photographs. It belongs in a "complete"
   collection, but is too small to provide much detail or practical help.
   Smith, Christina. (1993). _The Complete Old English Sheepdog._ Howell
   Book House: New York. ISBN 0-87605-223-5. A hardback which contains
   valuable information on all aspects of owning an OES. Also included is
   a listing of important and well known kennels in the U.S., Great
   Britain, Australia, Scandinavia, and the rest of Europe. 176 pages
   with numerous black and white photos.
   Tilley, Henry Arthur. (1972). _The Old English Sheepdog_. This book
   was originally published in hardcover in the early 1930s, but was
   privately reprinted by Florence Tilley as a softcover in 1972. The
   hardcover is now considered a collector's item. Contains information
   on care, breeding and bloodlines. The author is well-known for his
   Shepton Kennels. 100 pages, 15 photographs of early OES.
   Woods, Sylvia and Owens, R. (1981). _Old English Sheepdogs._ Faber and
   Faber: London, England. A hardback British publication, this book
   allows the reader a chance to review the breed from the English point
   of view. 240 pages.
   _return to table of contents_
Breed Clubs and Rescue Contacts

   For information on Breed Clubs and Rescue Contacts, please refer to
   the Official OES Web Page, under Breed and Rescue Contacts.
   _return to table of contents_
Online Information

   The latest version of this html document is available on the Web: This file is also
   posted regularly to the USENET group or is
   available via anonymous ftp to in the directory
  OES Mailing List
   OES-L is a free electronic mailing list for those who have an interest
   in the Old English Sheepdog. With subscribers from ten countries,
   OES-L is a fun way to learn about the international Bobtail! Come join
   To subscribe, send an e-mail to Leave
   the subject line blank and in the body of the message type: SUBSCRIBE
   OES-L Your Name
   Then, just follow the directions! Soon you will be talking with other
   OES owners from around the world! If you have any questions or
   comments, please e-mail Aimee B. Pharr [], List
   Administrator and Co-Owner of OES-L.
  OES Official Web Page
   In addition to the information contained in the OES FAQ, this web page
   includes an up-to-date list of International Breed Clubs and Rescue
   Contacts, the Breed Standards for Australia, England and Europe, OES
   Pictures and Products on the web and more! This page is maintained by
   Denise Humphries [] and is located at
  Other Web-related dog information
   For information on many other aspects of dog ownership, other breed
   FAQs, and other fun material, check out the rec.pets.dogs home page,
   currently maintained by Cindy Tittle Moore at
   _return to table of contents_
    The Old English Sheepdog FAQ
    Aimee B. Pharr, []

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Last Update March 27 2014 @ 02:11 PM