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rec.pets.dogs: Bulldogs Breed-FAQ


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Archive-name: dogs-faq/breeds/bulldogs
Posting-frequency: 30 days
Last-modified: 05 Jun 1995

See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge
This is a regularly posted faq and appears every thirty days in
rec.pets.dogs and news.answers.  The latest version of this file is
a hypertext document available via the Web at
http://www.io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/breeds/homepage.html

The most recently posted ASCII version of this file is available via
anonymous ftp to rtfm.mit.edu in the directory
pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeds

It is also available via email: check the weekly posting Cindy Tittle
Moore (tittle@io.com) puts out entitled "Complete List of
rec.pets.dogs FAQs" for details.



   
   
                                  BULLDOG FAQ
                                       
   The Bulldog FAQ is also available in hypertext (HTML) format at
   http://www.io.com/user/wilf/bulldog_l/faq.html. Check out Craig
   Foltz's Bully Archive at http://sculptor.as.arizona.edu/foltz/bullys/
   for lots of Bulldog GIFs and JPEGs. Craig also maintains a Bulldog
   Homepage (at http://sculptor.as.arizona.edu/foltz/bulldogs/) with
   pointers to lots of good Bulldog information.
   
   
  [ A NOTE TO THE HUMOR IMPAIRED. BULLDOGS ARE CLOWNS. HAVING A *VERY SERIOUS*
  FAQ WOULD BE COUNTER TO STANDARD ACCEPTABLE LOGIC. ]
  
                               TABLE OF CONTENTS
                                       
   1. Authors
   2. General
   3. Are Bulldogs for you ?
   4. Good books
   5. Magazines
   6. Mailing List
   7. A Bulldog As Pet and Companion
   8. Bulldogs and Shameless Advertising
   9. Cost
   10. Breed Description
   11. Health Issues
   12. Frequently Asked Questions
   13. Bulldog Rescue Organizations
   
                                 1. AUTHORS
                                       
    1. Wilf LeBlanc (wilf@io.com)
    2. Craig Foltz (foltz@as.arizona.edu)
    3. Aaron Dial (bismarck@uniblab.ocis.temple.edu)
    4. Jack Segall (segalljack@aol.com)
    5. Catherine Quinn (cquinn@access.digex.net)
    6. Cindy Tittle Moore
       
   Direct all comments/ criticisms to wilf please.
   
                                 2. GENERAL
                                       
   The Bulldog is a beautiful dog (see Q11, Q12) which was originally
   bred for Bullbaiting, and although the dog may look strange to people
   with no class and culture, one must keep in mind that virtually all of
   its physical traits were tailored for Bullbaiting.
   
   Originally, Bulldogs were most likely a cross between a Pug (which was
   imported from China by the Portuguese in the mid to late 16th
   century), and the progeny of the Alaunt/Mastiff crosses. These dogs
   were no doubt quite a bit different than current day Bulldogs...
   
   Todays bulldogs are not dog aggressive, or people aggressive, in
   general. They are about as people/dog aggressive as Golden Retrievers.
   They are not Pit Bulls, and although they look mean, they are not (at
   all).
   
   Bullbaiting (see Q6) originated in 1209 and ran out of favor (i.e.
   became illegal) a little before rec.pets.dogs was created, (1835).
   
                          3. ARE BULLDOGS FOR YOU?
                                       
     o Do you want a dog that can run for miles and miles and miles?
     If so, don't get a Bulldog. (Bulldogs don't jog. They waddle).
     However, they should go on long walks regularly like any other dogs.
     (See Q15). Bulldogs are not (NOT!) aggressive dogs, they are not
     'performance' dogs, they are above all else 'characters' and
     'clowns'.
     
     o Do you want a very obedient dog who will salute on command?
     If so, don't get a Bulldog. Bulldogs aren't stupid, but generally
     pretty stubborn and thus harder to train.
     
     Theorem: Bulldogs aren't stupid.
     Proof 1: Smart dogs learn what "cookie" means really fast.
     Bulldogs learn what "cookie" means really fast.
     Proof 2: At least two out of the six FAQ Makers have
     PhDs, so their dogs must be smart, right ?
     QED
     
     o If you live in a hot climate, your Bulldog might need special care
     in the summer. They tend to overheat in the hot weather (sometimes)
     and care should be given (i.e., shorter walks or walks at night).
     
     o Bulldogs are not long-lived dogs; 8 to 10 years is common.
     
     o There are lots of other breeds which may interest you. Please
     consult the breed FAQs at ftp://rtfm.mit.edu (in
     /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq), or the hypertext site at
     http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/dogs-faq/breeds
     /top.html. Wilf also maintains a set of links to various dog
     related sites at http://www.io.com/user/wilf/dogs/doggy_info.html.
     
                               4. GOOD BOOKS:
                                       
   [1]. The Book of the Bulldog,
          Joan McDonald Brearly 1985, TFH Publications, Inc, Ltd. 211
          West Silvania Avenue, Neptune City, NJ 07753 ISBN 0-86622-027-5
          
   [2]. The New Bulldog,
          Colonel Bailey Hanes MacMillan Pub Co (Howell Book House) ISBN
          0876050690
          
                           5. MAGAZINES AND CLUBS
                                       
   [1]. Bulldog Club of America
          Write to:
          Dennis Quinn,
          Secretary, Bulldog Club of America,
          450 Bully Hill Drive, King George,
          Virginia,USA 22485
          
          The club was founded in 1890 and had been in continuous
          existence ever since. There are several thousand members now.
          For only $15 a year membership a person gets a wonderful
          quarterly publication full of photos and useful information.
          
   [2]. Sourmug,
          Write to:
          Sourmug, #1 Windy Ridge
          Mendota, MN
          55150, USA
          Phone: 612 454 9510
          Fax: 612 454 9460
          $35/year CAN
          
          Sourmug usually has some pretty good articles and quite a few
          good pictures.
          
                               6. MAILING LIST
                                       
   We have a Bulldog and Bulldog cross (Bullmastiff, Bull Terrier,
   AmStaff, StaffBull, etc etc) mailing list. To subscribe, send a
   message to majordomo@io.com with "subscribe bulldogx-l
   your-email-address" in the body of the message (no quotes). (If you
   don't receive a reply, send a message to me ).
   
                      7. A BULLDOG AS PET AND COMPANION
                                       
   After the outlawing of Bullbaiting (1835), the Bulldog breed would
   have died out if not for the people who liked them for their more
   endearing properties. Namely, their abundant good nature which makes
   them excellent pets.
   
                    8. BULLDOGS AND SHAMELESS ADVERTISING
                                       
   Some products endorsed by Bulldogs
          
         1. Bulldog Brand Steel Wool
         2. Mack Trucks
            In case your in the market for a MACK truck, and have
            wondered who the Bulldog used in their print advertizing is,
            wonder no more. His name is Thunder, and he belongs to a
            member of the Detroit Bulldog Club. He was selected by the Ad
            agency from a group of eight or ten bulldogs to represent the
            "massive" image that Mack wants to present. At 78 pounds, he
            is type cast for this role.
         3. Kibbles 'n Bits
            (Pitched by Ike the Bulldog. Apparently, Ike doesn't eat the
            stuff, because its waxed to keep the Kibble moist and the
            Bits crunchy).
         4. Bulldog Canadian Lager Beer
            Old Canada Brewing Company, Canada
            Imported by Barton Beers, LTD, Chicago, IL 60603
         5. Red Dog Beer
            A Molson product (Canada). The commercials are great !
            
   Institutions with the Bulldog as mascot:
          
         1. University of Geogia
         2. Yale University
         3. Butler University, Indianapolis, IN

        Butler Bulldogs!
        We'll sing the Butler War Song
        We'll give the fighting cry
        We'll fight the Butler battles
        Bulldogs ever do or die
        And in the glow of the vict'ry firelight
        Hist'ry can not deny
        To add a page or two
        For the Butler fighting crew
        Beneath the Hoosier sky!
         4. Fresno State University
         5. University of Minnesota - Duluth (UMD)
         6. United States Marine Corps
            
                                   9. COST
                                       
   Bulldogs are one of the most expensive dogs. In general, they are hard
   to breed and typically have to be born via Caesarean section (see
   Q13). Furthermore they are often lethargic breeders, needing so much
   human assistance that the conjugal event can often approximate a
   `menage a cinq.' Artificial insemination is often called for. This
   brings us to an oft-pondered question: "Could the breed even exist
   without the intervention of technology?" The answer to this has has
   occupied some of the best minds of the day for a microsecond or two.
   The answer is actually unimportant; for a dog so wonderful, no price
   is too much to pay. ["Whew, I'd better fill my pockets with jelly
   `cause I'm about to become toast!"]
   
                               10. DESCRIPTION
                                       
Official Breed Standard [AKC]

     General Appearance
     Size, Proportion, Symmetry
     Head
     Neck, Topline, Body
     Forequarters
     Hindquarters
     Coat and Skin
     Color of Coat
     Gait
     Temperment
     Scale of Points
     
   General Appearance-- The perfect Bulldog must be of medium size and
   smooth coat; with heavy, thickset, low-swung body, massive short-faced
   head, wide shoulders and sturdy limbs. The general appearance and
   attitude should suggest great stability, vigor and strength. The
   disposition should be equitable and kind, resolute and courageous (not
   vicious or aggressive), and demeanor should be pacific and dignified.
   These attributes should be countenanced by the expression and
   behavoir.
   
   Size, Proportion, Symmetry-- Size-- The size for mature dogs is about
   50 pounds; for mature bitches about 40 pounds. Proportion-- The
   circumference of the skull in front of the ears should measure at
   least the height of the dog at the shoulders. Symmetry-- The "points"
   should be well distributed and bear good relation one to the other, no
   feature being in such prominence from either excess or lack of quality
   that the animal appears deformed or ill-proportioned. Influence of
   Sex-- In comparison of specimens of different sex, due allowance
   should be made in favor of the bitches, which do not bear the
   characteristics of the breed to the same degree of perfection and
   grandeur as do the dogs.
   
   Head-- Eyes and eyelids-- The eyes, seen from the front, should be
   situated low down in the skull, as far from the ears as possible, and
   their corners should be in a straight line at right angles with the
   stop. Thet should be quite in front of the head, as wide apart as
   possible, provided their outer corners are within the outline of the
   cheeks when viewed from the front. They should be quite round in form,
   of moderate size, neither sunken nor bulging and in color should be
   very dark. The lids should cover the white of the eyeball, when the
   dog is looking directly forward, and the lid should show no "haw".
   Ears-- The ears should be set high in the head, the front inner edge
   of each ear joining the outline of the skull at the top back corner of
   skull, so as to place them as wide apart, and as high, and as far from
   the eyes as possible. In size they should be small and thin. The shape
   termed "rose-ear" is the most desireable. The rose ear folds inward at
   its back lower edge, the upper front edge curving over, outward and
   backward, showing part of the inside of the burr. (The ears should not
   be carried erect or prick-eared or buttoned and should never be
   cropped). Skull-- The skull should be very large, and in
   circumference, in front of the ears, should measure at least the
   height of the dog at the shoulders. Viewed from the front, it should
   appear very high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the
   skull, and also very broad and square. Viewed at the side, the head
   should appear very high, and very short from the point of the nose to
   occiput. The forehead should be flat (not rounded or domed), neither
   too prominent not overhanging the face. Cheeks-- The cheeks should be
   well-rounded, protrouding sideways and outward beyond the eyes. Stop--
   The temples or frontal bones should be very well defined, broad,
   square and high, causing a hollow or grove between the eyes. This
   indentation, or stop, should be both broad and deep and extend up the
   middle of the forehead, dividing the head vertically, being traceable
   to the top of the skull. Face and muzzle-- The face, measured from the
   front of the cheekbone to the tip of the nose, should be extremely
   short, the muzzle being very short, broad, turned upward and very deep
   from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. Nose-- The nose
   should be large, broad and black, its tip set back deeply between the
   eyes. The distance from bottom of stop, between the eyes, to the tip
   of the nose should be as short as possible and not exceed the length
   from the tip of nose to the edge of underlip. The nostrils should be
   wide, large and black, with a well-defined line between them. Any nose
   other than black is objectionable and a brown or liver-colored nose
   shall disqualify. Lips-- The chops or "flews" should be thick, broad,
   pendant and very deep, completely overhanging the lower jaw at each
   side. They join the underlip in front and almost or quite cover the
   teeth, which should be scarcely noticeable when the mouth is closed.
   Jaws-- The jaws should be massive, very broad, square and
   "undershot", the lower jaw projecting considerably in front of the
   upper jaw and turning up. Teeth-- The teeth should be large and
   strong, with the canine teeth or tusks wide apart, and the six small
   teeth in front, between the canines, in an even, level row.
   
   Neck, Topline, Body-- Neck-- The neck should be short, very thick,
   deep and strong and well arched at the back. Topline-- There should be
   a slight fall in the back, close behind the shoulders (its lowest
   part), whence the spine should rise to the loins (the top of which
   should be higher than the top of the shoulders), thence curving again
   more suddenly to the tail, forming an arch (a very distinctive feature
   of the breed), termed "roach back" or, more correctly, "wheel back".
   Body-- The brisket and body should be very capacious, with full
   sides, well rounded ribs and very deep from the shoulders down to its
   lowest part, where it joins the chest. It should be well-let-down
   bewteen the shoulders and forelegs, giving the dog a broad, low, short
   legged appearance. Chest-- The chest should be very broad, deep and
   full. Underline-- The body should be well-ribbed-up behind with the
   belly tucked up and not rotund. Back and Loin-- The back should be
   short and strong, very broad at the shoulders and comparitively narrow
   at the loins. Tail-- The tail may be either straight or "screwed" (but
   never curved or curly), and in any case must be short, hung low, with
   decided downward carriage, thick root and fine tip. If straight, the
   tail should be cylindrical and of uniform taper. If "screwed", the
   bends or kinks should be well-defined, and they may be abrupt and even
   knotty, but no portion of the member should be elevated above the base
   or root.
   
   Forequarters-- Shoulders-- Should be muscular, very heavy, widespread
   and slanting outward, giving stability and great power. Forelegs-- The
   forelegs should be short, very stout, straight and muscular, set wide
   apart, with well-developed calves, presenting a bowed outline, but the
   bones of the legs should not be curved or bandy, nor the feet brought
   too close together. Elbows-- The elbows should be low and stand well
   out and loose from the body. Feet The feet should be moderate in size,
   compact and firmly set. Toes compact, well-split-up, with high nuckles
   and very short stubby nails. The front feet may be straight or
   slightly out-turned.
   
   Hindquarters-- Legs--Hind legs should be strong and muscular and
   longer than forelegs, so as to elevate loins above shoulders. Hocks
   should be slightly bent and well-let-down, so as to give length and
   strength from loins to hock. Lower leg should be short, straight and
   strong, with stifles turned slightly outward and away from the body.
   Hocks are thereby made to approach each other, and the hind feet to
   turn outward. Feet-- Should be moderate in size, compact and firmly
   set. Toes compact, well-split-up, with high nuckles and short stubby
   nails. Hind feet should be pointed well-outward.
   
   Coat and Skin-- Coat-- Should be straight, short, flat, close, of fine
   texture, smooth and glossy. (No fringe, feather or curl). Skin-- The
   skin should be soft and loose, especially at the head, neck and
   shoulders. Wrinkles and dewlap-- The head and face should be covered
   with heavy wrinkles, and at the throat, from jaw to chest, there
   should be two loose pendulous folds, forming the dewlap.
   
   Color of Coat-- The color of coat should be uniform, pure of its kind
   and brilliant. The various colors found in the breed are to be
   preferred in the following order: 1.) red brindle; 2.) all other
   brindles; 3.) solid white; 4.) solid red, fawn or fallow; 5.) piebald;
   6.) inferior qualities of all the foregoing.
   
   Note: A perfect piebald is preferable to a muddy brindle or defective
   solid color. Solid black is very undesireable, but not so
   objectionable if occuring to a moderate degree in piebald patches. The
   brindles to be perfect should have a fine, even and equal distribution
   of the composite colors. In brindles and solid colors a small white
   patch on the chest is not considered detrimental. In piebalds the
   color patches should be well-defined, of pure color and symmetrically
   distributed.
   
   Gait-- The style and carriage are peculiar, his gait being a
   loose-jointed, shuffling, sidewise motion, giving the characteristic
   "roll". The action must be, however, be unrestrained, free and
   vigorous.
   
   Temperment-- The disposition should be equable and kind, resolute and
   courageous (not vicious or aggressive), and demeanor should be pacific
   and dignified. These attributes should be countenanced by the
   expression and behavior.
   
Scale of Points

   GENERAL PROPERTIES

Proportion and symmetry...................5
Attitude..................................3
Expression................................2
Gait......................................3
Size......................................3
Coat......................................2
Color of coat.............................4   22

   HEAD

Skull.....................................5
Cheeks....................................2
Stop......................................4
Eyes and eyelids..........................3
Ears......................................5
Wrinkle...................................5
Nose......................................6
Chops.....................................2
Jaws......................................5
Teeth.....................................2   39

   BODY, LEGS, ETC

Neck......................................3
Dewlap....................................2
Shoulders.................................5
Chest.....................................3
Ribs......................................3
Brisket...................................2
Belly.....................................2
Back......................................5
Forelegs and elbows.......................4
Hind legs.................................3
Feet......................................3
Tail......................................4   39
TOTAL.....................................    100

   DISQUALIFICATION-- A brown or liver-colored nose.
   
                              11. HEALTH ISSUES
                                       
   Elbow Dysplasia, and Patellar Dysplasia should be screened for before
   breeding. Very few Bulldogs have ever been OFA rated (for hip
   displasia) and a good Bulldog hip is generally poorly rated by OFA.
   Only a tiny tiny number of Bulldogs have ever been OFA rated, and none
   have been considered excellent.
   
   Cherry eye (or "haw"), entropian and extropian, is common in Bulldogs
   and surgery may be required to fix the problem. Breeding stock should
   be screened. Cherry Eye is a swelling of a gland in the inner eye lid.
   This is usually treated by cutting the gland out depending on how
   often the swelling occurs. Entropian/extropian is the folding in or
   out of the eye lids, which bring the eyelashes in contact with the eye
   lense. This causes scratching, ulcers and eventually blindness. It is
   surgically corrected by putting a "tuck" (ask someone who sews) in the
   offending eye lid. Requires a delicate touch and experience not to put
   too much tuck and distort the look of the eye.
   
   Other popular maladies include demodectic skin mites ("mange") which
   appears to have a genetic basis. Births via C-section are typically
   required as mentioned above (see Q13).
   
   Skin allergies or "rashes" are relatively common as well.
   
   Yes, Bulldogs can be expensive dogs. If you decide to opt for a
   Bulldog, ensure you purchase one from a reputable breeder with a
   history of producing healthy dogs. Saving $100 to $500 and obtaining a
   poor quality dog will most likely cost you ALOT more money in the long
   haul.
   
   And no, not all Bulldogs have all these health problem.
   
                       12. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
                                       
   Q1. Are Bulldogs really the greatest dogs in the whole wide world?
   A1. Yes, unquestionably.
   
   Q2. Do Bulldogs wear those goofy Moose Antlers or are they above that?
   A2. Anything is OK _except_ moose antlers. Mooses are sacrosanct.
   Tutus, sunglasses, leather jackets, Georgia Bulldog T-shirts, Tuxedos,
   Mack Truck T-shirts, etc., etc.,... are all OK.
   
   Q3. Why are Bulldogs used so often as mascots?
   A3. See Q1 above.
   
   Q4. What is the difference between English (or British) Bulldogs and
   Bulldogs? What about the French Bulldog ?? What's this I hear about
   the 'Olde English Bulldogge' ?
   A4. There is no such thing as an English or British Bulldog. Members
   of the breed are simply called Bulldogs, as in _The_ Bulldog.
   
   On the French bulldog (by Jack Segall):
   The French Bulldog, incidentally, derived from minature or dwarf
   Bulldogs sent to France by the English who did not want them...this in
   the late 1800's... The genes for mininature still exist in the Bulldog
   line, and I own one who is a perfectly proportioned 30 pound dog.
   Before the late '50's, Bulldogs were shown at AKC shows in Under and
   Over 40 pound weight classes, so small dogs have been around until
   fairly recently.
   
   On the 'Olde English Bulldogge'
   (by Aaron Dial)
   Developed in the 1970s, the Olde English Bulldogge is a recreation of
   the 18th-century bulldog. The breed's creator, David Leavitt, was
   heavily involved with the AKC show-type Bulldog at the time,
   thoroughly loving the bulldog nature, but not so enamored with their
   breathing and breeding problems. Armed with considerable knowledge of
   bulldog history and canine genetics, Leavitt used a linebreeding
   scheme involving the present-day Bulldog, the Bullmastiff, the
   American Pit Bull Terrier, and American Bulldogs. Though the "Oldie's"
   bloodlines are strongly steeped in combat stock, Leavitt deemed
   aggressiveness a fault. He sought instead to recreate the original
   bulldog's tenacity, fierce appearance, power, and athleticism, but in
   the guise of an over-all friendly fellow. Considered intelligent,
   clownish, and loyal, the Olde English Bulldogges are quickly going
   "over the top," and are increasingly present at rare breed shows all
   over the North America. Dogs should weigh at least 60 lbs. and stand
   at least 19" at the withers. Bitches should weigh at least 50 lbs and
   stand 17" tall. The moderately wrinkled head is large in proportion to
   the body with the skull deeply sunken between the eyes, extending up
   the forehead. The muzzle is short (though not as short as the AKC
   Bulldog) and broad. The coat is short, close, and medium fine.
   Acceptable colors are the brindles (red, grey, or black), solid white,
   fawn, red, or black.
   
   For more information, or breeder referrals, on the Olde English
   Bulldogges, contact Standing Stones Olde English Bulldogges in the US
   at (203) 379-0378.
   
   Q5. OK, OK, then what is the difference between the American Bulldog
   and the Bulldog?
   A5. Well, (and maybe a AB aficianado can help me here), ABs were bred
   for Big Game Hunting and they use a little more force to bring their
   (smaller) prey down. (See also Q6 below).
   
   [From Aaron Dial, with a little editing by wilf]:
   The AB (indigenous to the sourthern US) was bred as a farm guardian to
   protect livestock. It resembles the basic bulldog description (wide
   chest, big head, etc.) but a good working AB should weigh 90 lbs
   (according to the boar hunters, ABs much more than 100 lbs are too
   slow), and its muzzle should be a bit longer than the Bulldog's for
   hot-weather work. Its bite should be undershot to maintain a hold, as
   fiercer prey can do considerable damage given the opportunity. A
   scissor bite would not be suitable. An athletic AB is quite popular
   for boar hunting, a sport that has taken the lives of many good dogs.
   However, a good AB is something to behold in this bloody endeavor,
   which is why they are emerging as the dog of choice for the task.
   There is great argument within the fancy just now as to what direction
   the breed should take, i.e. athleticism versus bigger is better and
   biggest is best. [All hunting flames cheerfully forwarded to
   rec.hunting]. [Again, the American Bulldog is more of a 'performance'
   dog, whereas the Bulldog is more of a couch potato].
   
   Q6. How did those relatively small Bulldogs of bygone days bring down
   Bulls. Were Bulls smaller back then or were Bulldogs bigger?
   A6. Some people think Bulldogs were bigger (95 lb range) and some
   think they were about the same size as today's variety. However,
   Bulldogs were more like a flea on a bull's nose than a massive dog
   which would fight with the bulls. They would grab onto the bull's nose
   and hold on until the bull was so tired it couldn't fight anymore. It
   must be remembered that although Bulldogs may look strange to some,
   everything about them (their short stature to avoid being `hooked' by
   the bull, their short snout to allow them to breathe while holding on
   to the bull, etc.) was bred for bullbaiting. The dogs didn't always
   win. The bull was also restrained by a tether (with a rope about its
   neck, approximately 4 or 5 yards long).
   
   Q6.1 Why are their faces all wrinkly?
   A6.1 So the bull's blood would flow down the Bulldog's face, under its
   chin and down, rather than into the dog's eyes. Their noses are tipped
   back so they can still breath while keeping ahold of their mouthful.
   Doesn't conjure up a pretty mental picture, does it?
   
   Q6.2 Why do they have such a short jaw?
   A6.2 Easier to hold on, and not let go.
   
   Q6.3 Why is all their weight near their head?
   A6.3 So when the Bull shakes it would be less likely that the dog's
   back would be broken. In physical terms, this moves the center of
   gravity nearer the axis of rotation in order to minimize the angular
   moment of inertia...
   
   Q6.4 I heard that they have jaws that lock, is this true?
   A6.4 No. They are just very strong, and stubborn (tenacious), and if
   they don't want to let go, they won't.
   
   Q6.5 Were only Bulldogs used for this sport?
   A6.5 No, originally the forerunners to the Bulldog were used along
   with Mastiffs and Bull Terriers. Bull Terriers and Mastiffs were
   considered too large and slow in the ring.
   
   Q6.6 Were animals other than Bulls `baited?'
   A6.6 Yes. Bears, badgers, and even monkeys were occasionally the
   first-round draft choices of the blood sport promoters.
   
   Q6.7 This is disgusting. This was sport?
   A6.7 Yes and yes. But remember that the fighting "rings" were the
   forerunners of the show "rings". Not that this makes it any better.
   [In fact, it kinda smacks of kickboxing, a sport not without promoters
   today...]
   
   Q6.8 So I bet a Bulldog would be a good hunter, no ?
   A6.8 HAHAAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHHAHAHAAHAHAA !!!!!! Sure, they are quite
   capable at hunting dust bunnies, but that's about it.
   
   Q7. Wow, they must be mean little dogs!
   A7. No. Most, if not all, the fighting spirit has been bred out. They
   are still pretty stubborn in general, but very loveable. (To quote the
   Book of the Bulldog, "They won't start very many fights, but they may
   finish a few"). Generally, they have a lot of patience, and they are
   very tough. This is why they are good with kids; they can take reams
   of abuse. They tend to be meatheads, and might harm a child by
   accident, so supervision is still recommended. They even have a
   reputation of being particularly good with cats [Craig: My Bulldog pup
   has established a particularly good relationship with my marmalade
   tabby Duncan, the King Kong of the feline world. Wilf: Yeah, my
   bulldog *loves* my cat and my cat (an old grumpy 11 year old) even
   likes my bulldog!!]
   
   Q8. Are Bulldogs the same as "Pit Bulls" ?
   A8. No. Although it is often unclear what people mean when they say
   "Pit Bull". They could mean American Pit Bull Terrier, or just a dog
   which was originally bred for pit fighting (and has bulldog-X blood)
   or most likely they really don't know what they are talking about. The
   press usually defines "Pit Bull" as a dog that bites.
   
   Terriers and Bulldogs were crossed to yield the Bull and Terrier which
   then led to the Bull Terrier and the so-called "Pit Bull". (Well, even
   this is debatable. Some people believe there is no Terrier in the
   American Pit Bull Terrier. Some people believe that the Pit Bull is
   closer in looks and character to the original Bull baiting dog. The
   general feeling of most Bulldog lovers is a cheery "who cares" ?)
   
   Bulldogs were used for pit fighting (historically) but any aggressive
   nature (or gameness) has been (in general) bred out. They are still
   stubborn, singleminded and rather impervious to pain.
   
   Bulldogs, in general, are much less hyper than, say, an AmStaff or a
   American Pitbull Terrier, shorter, and stockier. Again, Bulldogs are
   not performance dogs, they are *clowns*. And no, not all "Pit Bull"
   type dogs eat people just for fun. Pit Bulls were bred for fighting
   other dogs, not for eating people. A fighting dog cannot be aggressive
   to humans, since handlers must break up the fight. In other words, a
   well bred Pit Bull is not aggressive to humans (and as such, a Pit
   Bull doesn't even make a great guard dog). However, as with any dog
   (which has the size and strength to do damage), a combination of poor
   genetics, poor breeding, bad owners, and a little bad luck can lead to
   a problem dog. (And of course, media hype plays a roll in this as
   well). So make sure you do your research and find a good breeder with
   a good history of producing good dogs !!
   
   Q9. Will a Bulldog make a good guard dog?
   A9. No. They *like* people. Like most dogs, one might protect you if
   you were in trouble, but it is unlikely. However, most people are
   terrified of Bulldogs, so this is (sometimes) protection enough. [One
   can use this as a convenient barometer of good taste -- those
   terrified by Bulldogs are Philistines] Whether or not *any* dog should
   be used for guarding is good flamebait.
   
   Q10. Are they barkers?
   A10. No, they are very quiet in general. They do snore, belch and can
   be flatulent, so they tend to be noisy in other ways. Some people
   think this is comforting. Well, at least two people do because my SO
   does and I do. The contented snore of the Bulldog by my bed is the
   best lullaby that I can imagine.
   
   Q11. Why are they soooooooo beeeee-aaaaaa-uuuuuutiful?
   A11. Another imponderable...no one is sure why they are so stunning,
   they just are.
   
   Q12. What do I do if I do all my research, buy a Bulldog and people
   persist in saying that "he/she is so U-G-L-Y he is cute" moronic
   phrase about my lovely dog?
   A12. Inform me. I will deal with them (wilf@io.com) or utter some sage
   and witty repartee like "So's your momma!".
   
   Q13. Why are they often born by Caesarean section?
   A13. As a breed, they have large heads and small hips and therefore
   small birth canals. Well, that's the commonly held belief which is
   probably just a myth.
   
   Here are some other reasons for C-sections:
   
   Bulldog Bitches, due to their high tolerance for pain, often ignore
   nature's signals to "Push" the puppies out. Any dog can take a long
   time to deliver an entire litter of puppies. An hour or more between
   pups is not unusual, and if the litter is large, the delivery time can
   last 8 or more hours. Bulldogs will just forget it, and go to sleep.
   
   Secondly, Bulldogs have a higher than normal record of producing
   "Anasarca" puppies. These are fetuses that do not drain fluid in a
   normal manner, and end up as water-filled puppies, often weighing two
   to three times what a normal pup weighs. They are so large that they
   will not fit through the pelvic opening in the birth canal. If this is
   one of the first puppies in line to be delivered, none behind it will
   get out. Until the availablility of ultra sound, there was no way of
   predicting if the bitch had one of these in-side her. Even with
   ultrasound, it is difficult. A number of years ago, U of Michigan
   conducted a study trying to determine what caused this problem (it
   also happens with human babies). Ultra sound was used to try to
   determine when the water problem developed during the gestation
   period. No predictable patterns were discerned. The problem seemed to
   be related to a zero thyroid function in the fetus. Generally, these
   pups do not live more than a few minutes, even born through
   C-Sections.
   
   So the C-Section is routinely used to avoid having to do one on an
   emergency basis, whether due to an Anasarca pup, or just to make sure
   that all have been delivered naturally... how do you know how many are
   there? The high value of a bulldog puppy makes it cost effective to do
   the C-section rather than risk loosing even one puppy.
   
   Anasarca may be hereditary, but after several years of study supported
   by the Morris Animal Foundation, so familial connects were found.
   Repeat breedings of the same sire and dam did not produce Anasarca
   puppies.
   
   Here are some arguments against C-sections:
   
   Not accepting the puppies is the down side of C-sections. The mothers
   internal hormones are not yet in action, and she doesn't know that she
   has had puppies. Sometimes there may be near disasters in the first 48
   hours. A hormone shot can be given that brings the milk in and starts
   the maternal instinct going. The length of time between birth and
   acceptance depends on when, in the gestation period the C-section was
   performed.
   
   As you can see, discussing whether or not it is right or wrong to
   breed dogs which are often born in this manner is good flame bait.
   
   Q14. What's this Sourmug stuff all about?
   A14. Well, Sourmug is just the name that is sometimes used to explain
   the look on a Bulldogs face. The enlightened Bulldog owner prefers to
   think of it as a look of contentment.
   
   Q15. Why are they always fat?
   A15. They shouldn't be. As is the case with any dog, regular exercise
   and a proper diet will control any weight problems in Bulldogs.
   However, they are *very* solid dogs. Their build is very wide and not
   very tall. So even though they might look fat, they are just stocky.
   (Also, like any dog, you should be able to feel the ribs easily, but
   not able to see the ribs). Excess weight puts undue strain on the
   heart and joints.
   Remember, the AKC breed standard says: "The general appearance should
   suggest great stability, vigor and strength".
   
   However, the AKC breed standard also says: "the size for mature dogs
   is about 50 pounds; for mature bitches about 40 pounds", and this is
   routinely ignored.
   
   Q16. Do they shed alot?
   A16. Well, they do have a short coat but they are *not* a non-
   shedding dog.
   
   Q17. Why are Bulldog aficianados so wierd?
   A17. I dunno; it must be in our genes...
   
   Q18. How come their tails are so short, are they cropped?
   A18. No. They are not cropped, they just have short tails. The tails
   come in essentially two varieties: spiked or screwed [Craig: I could
   come up with a very off-color remark here if given a minute or so, but
   given the readership of rpd, it may not be much appreciated].
   
   Following by Jack Segall:
   The tail can be almost any size and shape, as long as all of it is
   stays below the base of tail. In breeding, a screw tail will usually
   be dominant, that is, both parents must have straight tails to get
   one. In judging a bulldog, the tail is worth about 2% of the score,
   and this includes not only its shape, but its placement on the back.
   Its base should be low on the down side of the rump curvature. Most
   tails do not need any special care. Occasionally, the root of a
   screw tail will be buried deep inside the dog - a finger inserted next
   to these tails will go in to about the first knuckle joint. These
   tails can become infected, particularly if they get wet from
   swimming or bathing in water that covers the dog. Such an infected
   tail usually has a strong odor, and may be red and sore to the
   touch. You may notice the dog scooting around on its rear trying to
   scratch this area. (Impossible for a bulldog to do!)
   
   Treating the infection requires daily packing of an antiseptic powder
   deep into the tail cavity. This may take several weeks to be
   effective. In rare cases, the infection may not be curable, and the
   tail has to be removed. This is not a simple procedure, although it
   would appear to be. The removal must be done at the base of the tail,
   which is attached to the spine. As this area in already infected, the
   risk of transferring this into the spinal column is great. After
   surgery, the same sort of antiseptic packing is done. Over the years,
   out of about 40 dogs that we have owned, 4 or 5 have had these deep
   set tails, three have become infected, and one of these required
   amputation.
   
    Q19. Did they always have such big heads and were built so low to the
   ground?
   A19. No. Very likely not. But the breed standard says large head and
   low to the ground. So bigger is better and lower is better. This too
   is good flame bait.
   
   Q20. What is a "Rose Ear" ??
   A20. Following by Jack Segall:
   The ears are supposed to have a "Rose" shape, and to help the
   cartilige form into this pattern, the ears are [sometimes] glued into
   the proper shape. We use a surgical glue, for colostomy bags, made by
   Duo Adhesive. If you do not know what a Rose Ear is supposed to look
   like, have someone who does know look at the dog. If the ears are
   already rosed, there is no need to glue them. If the ears kind of hang
   like a hound dog, called a button ear in bulldogs, then they should be
   shaped. Five months is about the limit on doing this. If you figure
   out what the ear should look like, glue all parts that fold together
   touching another part of the ear to hold the ear in the proper shape.
   The glue will stay on for a week or so, and can be rubbed off like
   rubber cement Make sure that it is SURGICAL adhesive, not the stuff
   used for false eyelashes. Our local drug store has to order the stuff
   for us, which usually takes a day.
   
   Q21. What special grooming is required ?
   A21. Not much, really.
   For a Bulldog of light coloring, sometimes tear stains might develop
   in the folds of the skin on the face. First, the source of the tearing
   should be determined. Some is normal, but an "entropian", where the
   eye lid has turned inward, and eyelashes are rubbing the eyeball will
   cause excessive tears. This will also cause eye ulcers and loss of
   sight. The surgical correction is minor, if this is what is happening.
   As the dog's head grows, this condition may re-occur, particularly if
   the face is heavily wrinkled. Cleaning the area with peroxide should
   help ward of any infection (which rarely occurs anyway), and a little
   DESITIN baby ointment will act as barrier between the tears and fur to
   prevent staining. USE VERY LITTLE, as it can rub off on to the
   furniture and clothing and is in and of itself a "stain maker".
   
   Putting a little vaseline on your Bulldogs nose from time to time is
   also a good idea. Sometimes there noses get dry, and putting a little
   vaseline (or even some vitamin E oil) on it every day or so will help
   keep it moist.
   
   Q22. What is "the mange" ?
   A22. Mange is something that almost all dogs carry in their blood
   system. It usually expresses itself early in life, sometimes
   associated with stress. It is not contagious, and goes away if treated
   early before the lesions cover large portions of the body. Usually
   dogs that have it, only show signs once.
   
   Mange can be lethal, if you think your Bulldog has mange, TAKE IT TO
   THE VET.
   
   For relief, dogs can be dipped in a solution of Mitaban. Your vet can
   handle the treatments or you can do it yourself.
   
   They will usually lose all their hair in the infected parts, although
   it doesn't take too long for the hair to grow back. If more than 50%
   of the dog is infected it can be fatal, so early diagnosis and
   treatment is important.
   
   Q23. What is this I hear about lemons ?
   A23. Sometimes in the heat your Bulldog might overheat, especially
   during exercise. Squirting lemon juice will tend to cut the "slime"
   and your dog will be able to breath easier.
   
                      13. BULLDOG RESCUE ORGANIZATIONS
                                       


DIVISION II, IN,IL,KY,MI,OH,WV,WI,  Sharon Zakar, 513-696-2657

DIVISION III, AZ,CA,HI,NV,  Lynda Pelovsky, 510-483-8433

DIVISION V, AK,ID,MT,OR,WA,  Kristine Metzger, 503-726-1007
South West Oregon Bulldog Club

AZ, Lynn Tunis, 602-888-0675

AR, Hot Springs, Garland County, Russellville, Arkadelphia,
Searcy, Fort Smith, Sharon L. Britton, 501-525-4332

B.C., Bonnie Wasnock, Home 604-534-6856, Work 800-663-1425

CA, DIVISION III, Lynda Pelovsky, 510-483-8433

CA, Bulldog Club of Greater San Diego
Betty Fisher, 619-588-6491

  Abby Zubov, 619-441-0802

  Marcie Dobkin, 619-748-8848

CA, Lake Elsinore, Riverside, San Bernadino, San Diego, Orange &
L.A. Conuties, Nancy Harrison, 909-928-1440

  Carolyn Whiteside, 909-674-0579

CA, Mother Lode Bulldog Club of Sacramento
Patti Rungo, 916-966-4012

  Bridgette Higginbotham, 916-273-9123

  Ann McIntosh, 916-966-3388

  Ann Chiorino, 916-663-2892

  Mary Brunk, 916-933-5724

CA, Northern CA, Bulldog Club of Northern California
  Pat Ropp, 408-356-0039

  Bob & Betty Hatton, 415-323-0980

CA, Pacific Coast Bulldog Club
  Fran  Crumely, 714-532-2113

CO, Colorado Springs, Rita Morrou, 719-578-9427

CO, Denver, 100 mile radius, Bulldog Club of Denver
  Sandy Coffman, 303-979-6460

CT, Billy & Karen White, 203-269-9030, Work 203-562-4107

CT, Barbara Manigini, 203-281-1409

FL, Diane Albers, 407-322-8980

FL, Tampa Bay Bulldog Club, Jim Lovett, 813-685-7667

FL, Steward L. Wagner, 813-355-5705, Work 813-746-4999, ext.333

FL, Sun Coast Bulldog Fanciers Network, Larry Fagan, 813-921-3320

HI, Tina Sugimoto, 808-826-9673

IA, Bulldog Club of Iowa, Linda Shelburg, 515-225-8743

IA, northwest, Barry J. Meyer, 712-732-4079

IL, Chicago Bulldog Club, Judy Johannsen, 309-764-0243

  Janet Hospodar, 708-683-2553

  Kathy Bergstrom, 815-389-2282

IL, Illiana Bulldog Club, Maura Teresko, 616-426-3930

IN,IL,KY,MI,OH,WV,WI, BCA, Division II
  Phillip Douglas, 317-896-9012

IN, Bulldog Club of Indiana, Teresa Gabbard, 317-539-5289

KS, Greater Kansas City & St. Joseph, MO
  Heart of America Bulldog Club, Pat Sullivan, 913-829-2305

  Heart of America Bulldog Club, Beverly Larrick, 913-829-3737

KS, Chelsea Brown, 316-343-6067

KY, Kentuckiana Bulldog Club, Sheila Lutring, 812-634-1656

MA, New England, Kathy Bernardi, 508-386-5541

MA, New England, Diane Condon  508-869-2981

MA, New England, Part Garrity  508-842-8848

MA, eastern MA to Worchester & CT, Dona Marcham, 617-335-2809

MA, Gertrude Freedman, 508-887-5101

MD, Bulldog Rescue and Education Service, Inc.
  Kimberly Hood, 410-633-7814

MD, Baltimore area, O'Neil Wagner, 410-679-3333

ME, Bulldog Club of Maine, Irene Head, 603-332-3306

ME, Miriam Lundeen, 207-989-6791

ME, Nancy Christensen

MI, Detroit Bulldog Club, George Cromer, 313-352-3707

MN, Saint Paul - Minneapolis Bulldog Club
Marcia Tiegs, 612-445-6836

MO, Greater Kansas City & St. Joseph,
Heart of America Bulldog Club, Pat Sullivan, 913-829-2305

  Heart of America Bulldog Club, Beverly Larrick, 913-829-3737

NV, Anne Murray, 702-677-0513

NV, South Nevada Bulldog Rescue, Lee Kinley, 702-451-2331

NH, ME, MA, Bulldog Club of Maine, Irene Head, 603-332-3306

NH, Ray & Deborah Turner, 603-742-3104

NJ, Rosemarie Strucke, 908-577-0514

NJ, CT, NY, PA, Gary Abalsamo, 201-798-7420

NJ, Monmouth & Ocean Counties, Robert & Ann Howd, 908-681-0355

NJ, Paul Jecas, 908-846-7699

NM, Nancy Morrison, 505-434-8226

NY, Long Island Bulldog Club, Linda Fiordiliso, 516-798-4964

NY, Long Island Bulldog Club, Marlene Hall, 516-694-3776

NY, Jane Rosenblum, 212-677-3050

NY, Sheila & Frank Balik, 716-359-9901

NC, Susan Luck Hooks, 704-375-4307

NC, David Helms, 704-624-5860

NC, Marianne Snellen, 704-233-5674

OH, Dayton, Cincinnati and N. KY
Buckeye Bulldog Club, Elizabeth Harshbarger, 513-278-4108

OH, Amy Hankinson

OH, Cincinnati Bulldog Club, John Zakar, 513-696-2657

OH, Bulldog Club of Greater Cleveland Jerry Watkins, 216-362-6330

OH, Toledo Bulldog Club, Nancy Paul, 419-822-5074

OK, Greater Tulsa Bulldog Club, Dina Foster, 918-241-1402

OR, DIVISION V, South West Oregon Bulldog Club
Kristine Metzger, 503-726-1007

OR, Portland, Hillsboro, Oregon City, Gresham
Oregon State Bulldog Club, Dianne K. Croan, 503-761-0841

OR, Sheila Dunn, 503-746-3335

PA, Deb Street, 717-993-6332

PA, Donna Callahan

SC, Sylvia Arrowwood, 803-899-7460

TN, Music City Bulldog Club of Nashville
Nancy Boniface, 615-459-5411

TX, Austin Bulldog Club, Mike Menasco, 512-282-3423

TX, Elsie Panico, 409-894-2176

TX, East Texas, Bonnie Stansell, 903-687-2464

TX, Bulldog Club of Longview Texas,Essie Massingill, 903-842-3741

TX, Ft. Worth Bulldog Club, Laura Fletcher, 817-280-0735

TX, Ft. Worth Bulldog Club, Ellen Pierson, 817-485-9054

TX, Houston, Southeast Texas, Bulldog Club of Texas
Greg & Tina Byers, 713-997-2253

TX, North TX, Lone Star Bulldog Club, Dixie Little, 214-298-7430

TX, South Texas, San Antonio Bulldog Club
Diana & Jim Young, 210-340-0055 or 800-594-4289

TX, South Texas, Dyanne Welch, 512-439-7279

TX, West Texas, Joanna Smith, 915-520-4714

VA, Pat Butcher, 804-467-2609

VA, Robert & Mary French Hall, 804-721-7334

VA, Bobbie Sandvig, 804-288-3684

WA, northern, Bonnie Wasnock, home 604-534-6856, wk 800-663-1425

WA, Hazel Saari, 206-695-3631

WI, Division II, Ray Knudson, 414-537-2774

WI, Milwaukee Bulldog Club, Adair Templin, 414-332-9095

WI, Maxine Krengel, 608-244-2336

WV, Kyle Fisher, 304-525-3614

If you are doing bulldog rescue and you want to be on future
updates of this list, please send the following information to:

        Diana and Jim Young
        National Coordinators of Bulldog Rescue
        7508 Marbach Road
        San Antonio, Texas 78227
        210-340-0055 (or area code 512 ?)

        Rescue volunteer's name
        Phone
        Area in which you rescue
        Name of local bulldog club or other organization
        with which you are associated, if any.

   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
   
    Wilfrid P. LeBlanc / wilf@io.com
    
   
     _________________________________________________________________

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