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rec.pets.dogs: Beagles Breed-FAQ


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Last-modified: 05 Jan 1998

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                                  Beagles
                                      
Authors

   Ellen Parr, reina@teleport.com, http://www.teleport.com/~reina/
   Sharon Reid, sereid@mi.net
   
   With significant contribution from Claudia Anderson,
   canderso@teleport.com
   
   Copyright 1995 by Ellen Parr and Sharon Reid.
   
   
   Version 3.1, updated December 19, 1996
   
Table of Contents

     * History
     * Description
     * Frequently Asked Questions
     * Personality and Temperament
          + Eye Disorders
          + Other Disorders
     * What to look for in a Responsible Breeder
     * References and Recommended Reading
     * Email Listservers
     * Publications
     * Beagle Clubs 
     * Beagle Rescue 
       
     _________________________________________________________________
                                      
History

   Beagles, as a breed, have been in existence for quite some time,
   although their precise origins are only vaguely known. Beagle-type
   dogs are described in documents dating from 400 B.C. Greece and A.D.
   200 Britain. The Romans are also thought to have transported to
   England with them small rabbit hunting hounds and bred them with the
   local hounds. Talbot Hounds were brought to England from France during
   the Norman Conquest in 1066 and are considered to be ancestors to the
   Southern Hound, the Beagle and the Foxhound.
   
   Beagles became quite popular with the British monarchy in the 1300 and
   1400's. Edward II and Henry VII both kept packs of Glove Beagles, so
   named since they were small enough to fit on a glove. Elizabeth I kept
   packs of Pocket Beagles which were only nine inches high at the
   withers.
   
   By the 1400's Beagles existed in Britain, Italy, Greece and France.
   The word "beagle" has two possible origins. It either originates from
   the Celtic word "beag" which means small or from the French word
   "begle" meaning "useless or of little value".
   
   By the 1700's two types of hounds existed for hunting rabbits: the
   Southern Hound and the much quicker North Country Beagle. Since fox
   hunting was becoming increasingly popular, Beagles were being kept
   less and less in favour of Foxhounds. Fortunately for the continuing
   existence of the Beagle, farmers in England, Ireland and Wales
   continued to keep packs to hunt with.
   
   In the mid 1800's Reverend Phillip Honeywood established his pack in
   Essex, England which is thought to be the progenitor of the modern
   Beagle. He was breeding for hunting skills though, not looks. A fellow
   Englishman, Thomas Johnson, was responsible for breeding lines of
   Beagles that could hunt and look attractive.
   
   Beagles were imported into the United States in 1876 and accepted as a
   breed by the American Kennel Club in 1884.
   
   
     _________________________________________________________________
                                      
Description

   Due to AKC requirements, we are unable to reproduce the American
   Standard in this FAQ. The AKC homepage has all the breed standards
   available via the page. The English Breed Standard follows, please
   keep in mind that there are some differences. Should you require the
   American Standard, please contact your local breed club or the AKC.
   
  English Beagle Standard (Revised 1988)
  
   GENERAL APPEARANCE A sturdy, compactly-built hound, conveying the
   impression of quality without coarseness.
   
   CHARACTERISTICS A merry hound whose essential function is to hunt,
   primarily hare, by following a scent. Bold, with great activity,
   stamina and determination. Alert, intelligent, and of even
   temperament.
   
   TEMPERAMENT Amiable and alert, showing no aggression or timidity.
   
   HEAD AND SKULL Fair length, powerful without being coarse, finer in
   the bitch, free from frown and wrinkle. Skull slightly domed,
   moderately wide, with slight peak. Stop well defined and dividing
   length, between occiput and tip of nose, as equally as possible.
   Muzzle not snipey, lips reasonably well flewed. Nose broad, preferably
   black, but less pigmentation permissible in the lighter coloured
   hounds. Nostrils wide.
   
   EYES Dark brown or hazel, fairly large, not deepset or prominent, set
   well apart with mild appealing expression.
   
   EARS Long, with rounded tip, reaching nearly to the end of nose when
   drawn out. Set on low, fine in texture and hanging gracefully close to
   cheeks.
   
   MOUTH The jaws should be strong, with perfect, regular and complete
   scissor bite, i.e., the upper teeth closely overlapping the lower
   teeth, and set square to the jaw.
   
   NECK Sufficiently long to enable hound to come down to scent easily,
   slightly arched and showing little dewlap.
   
   FOREQUARTERS Shoulders well laid back, not loaded. Forelegs straight
   and upright, well under the hound, good substance, and round in the
   bone, not tapering off to feet. Pasterns short. Elbows firm, turning
   neither in or out. Height to elbow about half height at withers.
   
   BODY Topline straight and level. Chest let down to below elbow. Ribs
   well sprung and extending well back. Short in the couplings but well
   balanced. Loins powerful and supple, without excessive tuck-up.
   
   HINDQUARTERS Muscular thighs. Stifles well bent. Hocks firm, well let
   down and parallel to each other.
   
   FEET Tight and firm. Well knuckled up and strongly padded. Not
   harefooted. Nails short.
   
   TAIL Sturdy, moderately long. Set on high, carried gaily but not
   curled over back or inclined forward from the root. Well covered with
   hair, especially on underside.
   
   GAIT/MOVEMENT Back level, firm with no indication of roll. Stride
   free, long reaching in front and straight without thigh action. Hind
   legs showing drive. Should not move close behind nor paddle not plait
   in front.
   
   COAT Short, dense and weatherproof.
   
   COLOUR Any recognized hound colour other than liver. Tip of stern
   white.
   
   SIZE Desirable minimum height at withers 33cm (13 ins). Desirable
   maximum height at withers 40cm (16 ins).
   
     *** Please note, in the USA, there are two recognized sizes.
     13 inches (Not exceeding 13 inches at the withers.)
     15 inches (Not exceeding 15 inches at the withers.)
     
   FAULTS Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a
   fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded
   should be in exact proportion to its degree.
   
   NOTE Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully
   descended into the scrotum.
   
   
     _________________________________________________________________
                                      
Frequently Asked Questions

   _I've heard beagles are hard to train and they are very stubborn. Is
   this true?_
   
     There is no simple answer to this question because, like people,
     and most other breeds of dogs, individuals do vary. However, in
     general, most hounds are somewhat more challenging to train. When
     talking about beagles, it is often said that they "live on their
     own agenda". This doesn't necessarily make training difficult, it
     just means you have to find the training method that works for your
     dog. Most people find that food is the best motivator for beagles.
     The use of food in training is not accepted by all dog trainers, so
     when you take your dog to obedience school, it is important to find
     both an instructor who understands beagles (or scent hounds in
     general) and is willing to use different methods, depending on what
     is effective for your beagle. Beagles are actually quite
     intelligent dogs, and very good problem solvers, which can cause
     problems in training. They can get bored very quickly with an
     exercise and find another way to have fun. Which might mean
     teaching you how to stop a training session.
     
     You should count on having several short training sessions
     *everyday* for at least the first two years of your dog's life if
     you want a perfectly obedient dog. There aren't many beagles out
     there with Obedience titles, but there are some, and it can be
     done.
     
     If you want a dog that is easily trained to be a 100% reliable dog,
     don't get a beagle.
     
   _*Everyone* says beagles are hard to housebreak, is this true?_
   
     As stated above, beagles can be a bit more challenging to train
     than other breeds, and this can (but not necessarily does) carry
     over into housetraining.
     
     There are many methods for house-training dogs. Your best bet is to
     read up on as many methods as possible and to choose the one that
     will work for you and your dog. You may find that you like one
     method, but your dog does not respond, don't despair, just try
     another way.
     
     For many beagle owners, crate-training has proved to be invaluable
     in house-breaking (as well as other problems such as destructive
     chewing). Crate training is fairly easy, both on you and the dog,
     and allows you to establish a schedule, which is very important in
     house- training. Consistency and vigilance will almost always
     result in a properly trained dog.
     
     Be warned however, there are some beagles that take up to a year to
     be fully house-trained, and there are the odd few that are never
     completely reliable.
     
   _What are beagles like with children?_
   
     Beagles generally adore children and will play for hours with them,
     however, like any breed of dog, beagles need to be socialized
     properly with children, and also like any breed, you should never
     leave young children and beagles alone together. If socialized
     properly and supervised properly, you shouldn't have any problems.
     However, there are two things you should be aware of. First off,
     beagles play rambunctiously and can accidentally hurt younger
     children. Secondly, beagles are often "mouthy", which means they
     like to play with their mouths, or chew on things. This is not
     biting, but rather grabbing on to things with their mouth, it is
     not done in anger or fear, but is for beagles, a way to play. This
     can of course be trained out of them, but it seems to be rather
     instinctive in many beagles and something that you should be aware
     of when considering a beagle.
     
   _Do beagles shed? Do they require regular grooming?_
   
     Yes, beagles shed. Don't be fooled by the short coat, however, the
     shedding is sometimes not as noticeable because the hairs they shed
     are so much shorter. The Beagle's coat is actually classified as a
     medium length, as opposed to a breed like a Doberman, which is a
     short coated breed. Also, the coat is a double-coat, meaning that
     they have a coarser outer coat and a soft undercoat. They will
     generally shed more in the spring, as their coats tend to thicken
     over the winter. This isn't necessarily due to climate. Dogs hair
     growth is dependent more on how much light there is as opposed to
     the cold. In the winter, there is less day-light and this
     encourages hair growth. However, Beagles will also go through a
     shed in the Fall as well as the spring. Beagles should be brushed
     with a medium bristled brush or a hound glove at least once a week.
     This will help loosen and remove dead hair and allow for new hair
     growth, as well as being good for the skin. A product called 'Zoom
     Groom' is also very popular with many Beagle owners.
     
     Beagles are fairly clean dogs and as long as they aren't rolling in
     really-nice-dead-things, they don't require frequent baths.
     However, if you are trying to control fleas, you may be bathing
     more often.
     
     Because beagles have ears that hang, their ears must be checked at
     least every two weeks for any sign of infection or waxy build-up.
     There are many ear washes you can get from your vet that will help
     clean out the ears. If you ever notice odor from your dog's ears,
     it is likely that the dog has a yeast build-up or some other kind
     of infection and may need stronger treatment. Other signs of ear
     infections are constant head shaking, scratching at the ears, and
     scratching just below the ears.
     
   _Do beagles bark, or otherwise make noise, a lot?_
   
     Beagles do not tend to be 'yappy' dogs, however, they can and will
     bark when given the right stimulation. Most will bark/growl when
     strange dogs/people/things-you-can't-see come in their territory.
     They will also bark when excited, although this varies from dog to
     dog. Most beagles will become very vocal if they are left alone a
     lot. Some beagles can be extremely vocal, although this can vary by
     individual as to amount of vocalization and type.
     
     Beagles can also howl, this sound was useful in hunting as it would
     alert the hunters when the beagles had cornered their prey. Again,
     not all beagles will howl, but you should be prepared for the
     possibility.
     
     A third noise beagles can make is hard to describe, kind of like a
     half-howl, called baying. Beagles will often make this noise when
     they catch the scent of something, again, this was useful in
     hunting.
     
     The amount of any barking/howling/etc will always vary from dog to
     dog. If you want your dog to be quiet, you can train them to be.
     But again, when training beagles, patience is the key, it could
     take several months for your dog to understand the 'quiet' command.
     Some beagles never do understand the idea that you want them to be
     quiet, and if this is a necessity for you, you may want to consider
     another breed, or more radical training methods such as anti-bark
     collars, or to have the dog surgically altered.
     
   _What colors do Beagles come in?_
   
     The most common color you will see is called tricolor. It means a
     black saddle, white legs, chest, and belly, with a tan head, and
     often around the edges of the saddle. Many dogs have a white blaze
     on their face, but a solid tan face is common too. Tricolor puppies
     are born black and white, the tan develops as the puppy gets older.
     
     Red and White: There is no black at all, and the red can range from
     a light tan to a darker red. These puppies are born as red and
     whites, or sometimes even a solid white, with the color developing
     later.
     
     Lemon and White: The lemon varies from an off-white, to a dark
     lemon. These puppies are often born completely white, with the
     color developing later.
     
     Black and White: Very rare.
     
     With all of these colors, you can have freckling, mottling,
     ticking, and grizzling. Occasionally, an all white hound appears,
     but this is very very rare. These are not albinos, simply white
     dogs.
     
     
     _________________________________________________________________
                                      
Personality and Temperament

   When looking for a companion in your life, it is very important to
   understand the personality, temperament, and traits of that companion.
   For most dogs, their temperament is based on the purpose for which
   they were bred. Beagles are scent hounds, bred to track prey over the
   country side. This makes them energetic, independent, outgoing, and
   sometimes, stubborn dogs, as they wish to follow something to it's
   conclusion. There is no difference in temperament in the two varieties
   of Beagles (13 inch and 15 inch).
   
   Beagles that were bred in puppy mills can often be extremely difficult
   to housetrain, due to the fact that they are kept in very unclean
   conditions. When examining a litter, how clean the mother is helps to
   determine how easily housebroken the puppies will be. Another reason
   to buy a dog from a responsible, ethical breeder.
   
   Beagles were also bred and kept in packs. This has resulted in a near
   genetic need for companionship. If they don't get it from another dog,
   they will demand it from you. This is not to say that a lone Beagle
   will be underfoot, begging for attention all the time, but they will
   require a substantial amount of your time in play and companionship.
   If they are not given enough stimulation from their 'pack', they will
   find ways to amuse themselves and this can mean trouble! The list of
   what some beagles have eaten/chewed/destroyed is astonishing!
   
   Beagles do not make good 'outside' dogs, especially if you only have
   one. Again, they need to be kept occupied and if regularly left in a
   backyard, they will usually start digging, barking, and looking for
   ways to get out and have fun. If you are dedicated to walking them in
   the morning before work and spending lots of time with them when you
   get home, they should be able to handle spending the day in a securely
   fenced backyard, however, most Beagle owners keep their dogs inside
   while gone. For many reasons, including possibility of theft, escape,
   or torment by neighborhood children/dogs, having a secure indoor place
   for your Beagle is the best bet.
   
   As stated in the frequently asked questions section, the Beagle's
   independent and stubborn nature makes obedience training a necessity
   and a challenge. Be sure to get into some kind of training routine
   early in your Beagle's life. If you attend obedience classes, make
   sure your instructor understands the hound personality. Beagles
   require a firm trainer , but not a physical one. Beagles neither
   respect, nor acknowledge physical force.
   
   Beagles have loads of energy and are well-suited to someone who likes
   to take long walks. Beagles can be kept successfully in apartments,
   however, you must be extremely dedicated in taking your dog out for
   regular walks. Bred to run cross-country in pursuit of rabbits and
   foxes, they don't mind going for long runs. Keep in mind however,
   that, you should wait until the dog is at least a year old before
   starting any running program and you should start slowly. Talk to your
   vet for more information on running with your dog.
   
   Because Beagles were bred as a pack animal, they generally get along
   well with other dogs, and often, cats. Beagles should not be
   aggressive towards other dogs, however, they will protect their
   territory, usually, this means just growling and other posturing. More
   often than not, your Beagle will end up playing with the intruder as
   opposed to fighting with it. Beagles should *never ever* be aggressive
   towards humans, however, due to their independent nature, they can
   sometimes try to be dominant over you. You should not allow this and
   if you are having problems, see a good dog trainer on how to correct
   it.
   
   Beagles generally adore children, if they are socialized properly with
   them. Small children and dogs should never be left unsupervised, but
   in general, you will find that Beagles make wonderful companions for
   kids and adults alike.
   
   When looking for a Beagle, you need to be sure to go to a reputable,
   responsible breeder. Beagles are one of the top puppy mill dogs
   because they produce such adorable puppies. Dogs from puppy mills,
   usually those purchased in a pet store, can be extremely timid and/or
   aggressive. In addition, they can suffer from numerous health
   problems. Please read the section on genetic problems for more in
   depth information on the problems poorly bred Beagles can suffer from.
   Please also see the section on Responsible Breeders to aid you in your
   search.
   
   Overall, Beagles are fun-loving, happy dogs, and as long as you
   understand the Beagle personality, they can make a great addition to
   your family. One Beagle owner was heard to say that "Beagles belong in
   Disneyland, they are the happiest dogs on earth."
   
   
     _________________________________________________________________
                                      
Genetic Disorders

   Beagles, like all breeds, should be bred carefully and by
   knowledgeable people to help minimize hereditary disorders. Some
   disorders that are found in Beagles are:
   
  Eye Disorders
  
   Cherry Eye -- Very Common
          swelling of the gland of the third eyelid
          
   Glaucoma
          increase in fluid pressure inside the eye
          
   Cataracts
          clouding of the eye lens
          
   Retinal Dysplasia
          folding or displacement of the retina, may lead to blindness
          
   Progressive Retinal Atrophy
          cells of the retina deteriorate over time causing blindness
          
  Other Disorders
  
   Epilepsy -- Very Common
          brain dysfunction resulting in seizures
          
   Elongated Soft Palate
          soft palate at the back of the throat is elongated and
          interferes with the larynx
          
   Cleft Lip and Palate
          opening between oral and nasal cavities, can impede pup from
          nursing
          
   Monorchidism
          one testicle does not descend
          
   Cryptorchidism
          both testicles do not descend
          
   Intervertebral Disc Disease
          degeneration of the intervertebral discs, causing severe neck
          and back pain
          
   Pulmonic Stenosis
          heart defect, may cause heart failure
          
   Kidney Failure
          
   Bladder Cancer
          
   
     _________________________________________________________________
                                      
What to look for in a Responsible Breeder

   Author: Lisa Frankland
   
   Starting the Search:
   
     * Attend an event such as the America's Family Pet Show and talk to
       people who own the breed you want.
     * Attend a local dog show. Show catalogs list the names and
       addresses of the owners of entered dogs. You can also talk to the
       owners and handlers of the dogs (though not when they're about to
       go into the ring!) and get some leads that way.
     * Write to the AKC and ask for the names and addresses of breed
       clubs. These clubs can steer you in the right direction.
     * Learn about your breed before you look to buy one. Read the breed
       standard, find out about grooming requirements, typical
       temperaments, health problems that are common in the breed, etc.
       Irresponsible breeders hate educated buyers!
     * Price alone should not be a factor in deciding what breeder to buy
       from. While a high price doesn't necessarily guarantee high
       quality, a very low price often does not turn out to be a bargain
       in the long run. Find out what typical prices are for show and pet
       quality puppies of your breed in your area.
     * Be patient. You may have to wait a few months (or longer) to find
       the right dog from a good breeder. This is a very short time
       compared with the ten to fifteen years that a dog will live with
       you.
       
   Responsible Breeders DO:
   
     * Breed in order to improve the breed and produce the best puppies
       they possibly can, and usually plan to keep at least one of them.
       Ask as many questions of you as you do of them.
     * Show evidence of at least two or three years of serious interest
       in their breed, i.e. dog club memberships (the AKC doesn't
       count!), show and match ribbons, and Championship and/or
       performance (obedience, agility,tracking, field, etc.) titles.
     * Breed only dogs that closely match the breed standard and are free
       of serious health and temperament problems.
     * Tell you if they think you would be better off with another breed
       of dog, or no dog at all
     * Provide referrals to other breeders if they don't have anything
       available.
     * Use a written contract and guarantee, or at least an oral
       agreement, when selling a dog, with clear terms that you can live
       with.
     * Provide a registration slip, a pedigree, and up-to-date
       shots/health records with every puppy they sell.
     * Honestly discuss any special problems/requirements associated with
       the breed.
     * Offer assistance and advice on grooming, training, etc., for the
       life of the dog.
     * If, for any reason and at any time, you cannot keep the dog, will
       take it back.
     * Normally breed only one or two litters a year, max!
     * Have dogs that are clean, healthy, happy, and humanely cared for
       
   Responsible Breeders DO NOT:
   
     * Appear overly eager to sell/"get rid of" a puppy.
     * Breed simply to produce puppies to sell.
     * Breed a bitch on every season, or more than once a year.
     * Have breeding stock that consists of a "mated pair".
     * Claim that all of their puppies are "show/breeding quality".
     * Claim that their breed has no problems (some have fewer than
       others, but every breed has at least a couple).
     * Sell puppies to pet stores or to anyone that they have not
       met/screened personally.
     * Sell puppies that are less than seven to ten weeks old.
     * Sell puppies without papers (registration slip and 3-5 generation
       pedigree), or charge extra for papers.
     * Have more than one or two litters at any given time, or litters of
       multiple breeds.
     * Guarantee their dogs, or if they do, attach such unreasonable
       conditions to the guarantee, i.e., "dog must not be spayed or
       neutered, must never have been bred, and the ears must stand
       correctly," that it is unlikely that they would ever have to honor
       it.
       
   Phrases to be aware of in breeder's ads:
   
     * "Rare"--This is often because either the breeder is using the
       wrong term for a common trait (i.e., "teacup" for toy size) or the
       dogs in question have a trait that no responsible breeder would
       deliberately produce, either because it is not allowed or is
       considered a serious fault in the breed standard, and/or is
       associated with health problems in the breed (e.g. white Boxers
       and Dobermans, parti-colored Poodles, "king" Labs, lemon spotted
       Dalmatians, and blue-eyed Malamutes). Although it can also mean
       that the breed is not well known or widely recognized, it does
       almost always mean that the breeder expects you to pay megabucks
       for the privilege of owning one.
     * "Aggressive"--Most dogs are naturally protective, the extent
       depending on their breed and individual personalities. Why would
       anyone in their right mind deliberately breed dogs with unstable
       temperaments?
     * "Champion"--A dog becomes a breed champion by earning points
       defeating a specified number of other dogs of its breed in
       competition. A dog can have a whole wall full of blue ribbons, yet
       still not have earned a single point, let alone a championship
       title.
     * "Grand Champion"--the AKC does not award a Grand Champion title.
       Some other registries do, such as the UKC, but make sure the
       breeder explains how and where that title was earned.
     * "Champion lines"--Almost all dogs have some champions in their
       pedigrees if you go a few generations back. Ideally, at least one
       parent and the majority of the dogs listed in the pedigree should
       have a championship or other title.
     * "Champion puppies"--Dogs cannot be shown towards a championship
       before they are six months old. Maybe the breeder means that the
       parents are champions. Maybe it means that you'd be better off
       buying from somebody that's honest.
     * "OFA puppies"--OFA stands for Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, a
       registry that screens dogs for hip dysplasia. Dogs must be at
       least two years of age to be screened. If a breeder claims that
       any dog younger than that has OFA numbers, run!
     * "Show quality"--What does the breeder mean by this? Expected to
       finish a championship fairly easily? No disqualifying faults? Has
       "perfect markings and is really cute?" Make sure you understand
       exactly what this means before you buy. By the way, unless you are
       serious about breeding and showing, there is nothing wrong with a
       dog that is "pet quality."
     * "AKC registered (or just 'AKC')"--the AKC (American Kennel Club)
       is a registry that issues registration papers to dogs of the
       approximately 140 breeds that are currently recognized, whose
       parents were also registered. While great to have (essential if
       you plan to show and breed), AKC registration is no guarantee of a
       dog's quality, or of a breeder's integrity. Other popular
       registries include the United Kennel Club (UKC) and the American
       Rare Breeds Association (ARBA), as well as breed-specific
       registries such as the Australian Shepherd Club of America (ASCA).
       One warning: There are a number of "effigy registries" whose sole
       purpose is to provide "papers" for dogs who cannot be registered
       through one of the legitimate registries (breeder may have been
       banned from legitimate registry, parents may not be registered or
       registerable with legitimate registry, etc). If you are not
       familiar with the registry in question, ask around.
       
   
     _________________________________________________________________
                                      
References and Recommended Reading

   Although there are many books on the market about Beagles, the best
   reference you can find is _The New Beagle_. You can get great
   information from other books, but _The New Beagle_ is the all around
   handbook.
   
     Musladin, Judith, Musladin, A.C. and Lueke, Ada. _The New Beagle_,
   1990, Howell Book House. ISBN 0-87605-025-9.
   
     AKC, _The Complete Dog Book_, 1992, Howell Book House. ISBN
   0-87605-464-5.
   
   
     _________________________________________________________________
                                      
Email Listservers

   There are currently (as of September, 1995) two email listservers
   where discussion of Beagles is welcomed.
   
     * Noses-list: Devoted to all scent hounds
     * Internet Beagle Afficionado Recreation Club (ibarc): Discussion
       Limited to Beagles.
       
   Instructions on joining both groups follows.
   
  Noses-L
  
   To subscribe to NOSES-L, send email to: listserv@apple.ease.lsoft.com.
   In the body of the message include the single line:
   
     subscribe NOSES-L yourfirstname yourlastname
     
   NOSES-L is currently an open list, which means that all requests to
   subscribe and unsubscribe are processed by the listserver. You may
   subscribe or unsubscribe from the list at any time.
   
  Ibarc:
  
   To subscribe to I-BARC, send email to: listserv@apple.ease.lsoft.com.
   In the body of the message include the single line:
   
     subscribe I-BARC yourfirstname yourlastname
     
   I-BARC is currently an open list, which means that all requests to
   subscribe and unsubscribe are processed by the listserver. You may
   subscribe or unsubscribe from the list at any time.
   
   
  Publications
  
   Show Beagle Quarterly, P.O. Box 2340, Redlands, CA 92373, $15.00/year.
   
   The Rabbit Hunter, P.O. Box 244, Hoskinston, KY, 40844-0244
   
   Hounds and Hunting, P.O. Box 372, 554 Derrick Road, Bradford, PA,
   16701
   
   Better Beagling, P.O. Box 142, Essex VT 05451
   
   The Small Pack Option Magazine, P.O. Box 718, Whitney Point, NY 13862
   
   BONE (Beagle Obedience Network Excellent) Denise Nord, 14605 34th
   Avenue #317, Plymouth, MN 55447 dmnbgl@usinternet.com
   
   
     _________________________________________________________________
                                      
   
    Beagle FAQ
    Ellen Parr, reina@teleport.com
    Sharon Reid, sereid@mi.net
    
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