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Archive-name: crafts/textiles/faq/part2
Last-modified: 23 Oct 1997 See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge Part 2 of 2 of the Textiles FAQ (c) All the material in these faqs are copyrighted by the owner of the FAQs (which may change). Free use is encouraged. These FAQs are not to be reused for profit. This copyright must be kept with the FAQ used in it's entirety. Questions addressed: 5) What are the best periodicals and sources for Heirloom Sewing (also known as French Hand Sewing) projects? 6) Where can I get natural fabrics by mail order? 7) I've just been given my Great Grandmother's sewing machine. Can anyone help me fix it or restore it? 8) Where can I hook up with people to exchange quilt blocks? 9) How do I hem jeans? 10) What are available for children's sewing? (ie patterns, fabric, etc) 11) What are the various patterns available? (paper, computer, services, other) 12) What are the best scissors? What are the rotary cutters? What are the electric cutters? 13) What are Dress Forms and how do I get them? 14) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ? 5) What are the best periodicals and sources for Heirloom Sewing (also known as French Hand Sewing) projects? Heirloom sewing beganas an attempt to recreate some antique clothing, usually the white dresses with lace inserts all over the place. There are many new patterns available. You use fine, lightweight fabrics like cotton voile or batiste, silk, or the "baby" wale corduroy. You add ruffles made from fine imported French laces, and maybe a touch of delicate hand embroidery. Bullion knot roses and shadow embroidery are very popular. About half the patterns have smocking on them, usually on the yoke of a dress. It helps to have a good sewing machine, that can handle delicate fabrics and do some fancy stitching. Originally heirloom sewing was all done by hand (e.g. French Hand Sewing) but there are several books out now on how to do it by machine. Using a machine is a slow process, but it is faster than doing the work by hand. Periodicals Recommended: Sew Beautiful Subscription Dept. 518 Madison St. Huntsville, AL 35801-4286 (205)-533-9586 Creative Sewing Box 99 Lookout Mountain, TN 37350 1-800-443-3127 Both of these publications cover heirloom sewing, and also include other types of sewing techniques. Lots of how-to articles and inspirational photos. Both also include one or more free patterns bound into each issue. The Singer Reference Library book _Decorative Machine Sewing_ includes a section on Heirloom Sewing. Mail Order Sources for Fabrics, Laces and Supplies: The Unique Needle 539 Blossom Way Hayward, CA 94541 415-727-9130 Rumor has it she has a mailing list. Sweet Child of Mine or Sweet Child of Mine 139 East Fremont Avenue 3720 Miramesa Ct. Bldg 116 Sunnyvale, CA 94087 Santa Clara, CA 95051 408-720-8426 Hours: Mon, Tues, Wed from 11-4:30; Sat. 12:30-3:30 pm Home-Sew P.O. Box 4099 Bethlehem, PA 18018-0099 carries some inexpensive entredeux and embroideries. Might be good for practice for someone who is just embarking on heirloom sewing. Nancy's Notions (address above) sells entredeux. Carolea's is a well known place in Sunnyvale, California, but the laces and entredeux there can be a bit more expensive than mail order sources. For patterns for clothing for the American Dolls from the Pleasant Company: Fancywork and Fashion 4728 Dodge Street Duluth, MN 55804 (218) 525-2442 $2 for catalog A nice nightgown pattern called "Julie's Gown" is available from: Susan Oliver A Work of Heart Studio P.O. Box 1477 Nevada City, CA 95959 (916) 265-4433 Also check some of the speciality pattern companies such as Campbells (see the FAQ on historical costuming). 6) Where can I get natural fabrics by mail order? Sewing Sampler Productions PO Box 39 Springfield, MN 56087 (800) 772-5011 or (507) 723-5011 Retail and mail order. $3.50 UPS shipping charge (USA) per order. Regular line of Cotton Club interlock and French Terry (100% Cotton) with matching ribbing. Excellent quality; seems to equal Hanna quality. Interlock and French Terry are $9 yd (1992); supplex is 5.50/yd. They carry Oshkosh and Healthtex fabrics as well as notions like snaps, collars and woven patches. Three catalogs (basics, fashion fabrics, kids). Two swatching services for $10 each. Several newsletters also. Please mention me (Grace Sylvan, Lewiston Drive, San Jose, CA) if you decide to subscribe to the swatching service (and I get a small credit, thanks to you, and you get wonderful swatches delivered to your door). Sew Natural Fabrics by Mail 521 N. Essex Drive Lexington Park, MD 20653-1652 (800) 368-0126 (310) 863-5952 They provide regular mailings of catelogs. To subscribe, send $2. NOTE: I just got off the phone with Pam (the owner) who will be sending yours truly (the faq-keeper) a sample catelog! I'll update this when I receive it. Cotton Express P.O. Box 221 Apex, NC 27502 (919) 387-1650 I have ordered from Cotton Express a couple of times. Their fabrics are nearly exclusively 100% cotton (*always prewash* -- I do it 2 or 3 times), and after I sent for samples and then made one purchase they continue to send me samples on a regular basis. They have interlocks, lingerie jerseys, polo jerseys, cotton mesh, French terry ($6.50/yd last mailing), fleece (100% cotton!), corduroy. Ribbings are of cotton/lycra and cotton/poly. If you see something you like, order it right away -- their stocks are not huge. The Sewing Room 320 Harmon Drive Lubbock, TX 79416 1-800-275-3822 I recently sent for their swatch set. They have OshKosh and Healthtex fabrics, and they suggest coordinating fabrics and ribbings available from them. Interlocks (50/50) are 7.25/yard, OshKosh print corduroy is $7.95/yard. 100% cotton interlock is $7.25/yard. These are examples from the swatch set I just received. They have sale items in the back, about 15% off. 7) I've just been given my Great Grandmother's sewing machine. Can anyone help me fix it or restore it? > Gosh, the machine I have must be about 60 years old. It's a > treadle machine that has been motorized. I do not know if I > want to remove the motor or not. Also, the veneer on the > cabinet is in pretty bad shape. I'm going to have it replaced. > Do you have any suggestions? Well, first of all, anything you do to the machine lessens its value as an antique (so I was told) so the first thing to do is to decide whether you want the antique value of the machine or just a really nice, spiffy looking treadle. In my case I wanted a really nice, spiffy looking treadle that could double as my everyday sewing cabinet and also be a nice showpiece. I don't care about the supposed antique value. My Grandmother had abused her treadle and it had been stored for 40 years in my Dad's workshop so you can imagine what it looked like! Gouged, paint-splattered cabinet, dust everywhere, rusted grill work and the head was covered in black grime. The first thing I did was take lots of photos of it from all angles so I would know how to put it back together after taking it apart. Next I took it apart. Then I used very mild paint stripper (3M special gel-type) to remove the varnish from the cabinet pieces and the paint from the iron grill work. I should state right now that you should TEST ALL CHEMICAL YOU PLAN TO USE ON THE MACHINE IN AN INCONSPICUOUS PLACE FIRST!! The paints and varnishes of yesteryear are quite different from those that exist today. Often today's stuff is far too strong for those old finishes to handle. After removing all the paint, I washed the whole thing off with a water-dishsoap mixture and rinsed it all thoroughly. Then I dried everything and let the grill work ``age'' for a few days (lets the iron ``set'' properly). Then I spray painted the iron work with a rust protector followed by a black acrylic gloss. I then sanded the cabinet and ``varnished'' it with a cherry wood urethane. I should mention that most veneers in those days were cherry wood veneers, whereas most today are of oak. Cherry wood is very expensive these days so you might have problems replacing the veneer. I filled in small holes with wood filler and large ones with a combination of glue, wood chips and wood pieces and sanded carefully. Now for the machine head: I should put in here that whatever you do, DON'T clean the machine head with alcohol!!!! The old paints and varnishes that were used at that time are very sensitive to alcohols and such. DON'T USE THEM TO CLEAN YOUR MACHINE!!! I used wd-40 to work through the top layers of grime. Boy was I surprised to find gorgeous gold decals of phoenix's rising from the ashes and such. I VERY GENTLY scrubbed away the rest of the grime using water and dishwashing soap. I let the whole thing dry for two days and then covered the head (brushed on) with several coats of future floor polish. Then I oiled the heck out of the insides using sewing machine oil. Voila! A mear 4 months later (and I thought it was going to be a weekend project! :-) it looks gorgeous! Of course the antique lovers are horrified but I'm very, very happy with the project. Now, if you want to keep the antique value of your machine you are going to have to take a different tact: immediately go to the library and get as many books as you can on restoring antiques. Talk to antique dealers. Etc. This is what I did at first and is what helped me decide that keeping the antique ``value'' was too much work and bother. It can be very rewarding for the right person and the right project, but it just wasn't for me. Singer Service Centers actually still do repair and restore antique machines -- the _real_ service centers (the ones run by Singer, not the ones running in back of a sewing store) have to service and repair all machines made by Singer, not just the current batch. As for whether or not to remove the motor: most early treadles were indeed ``motorized'' aftermarket. That's how the first machines were ``upgraded'' so the owners didn't have to go out and buy one of the ``new'' motorized ones and junk their old machine. You'll have to look at the job very carefully as removing the motor and restoring the machine back to its treadle state might not be as easy as you think. That's where pictures and information about the original machine would help. > Are there any books on this stuff? My treadle doesn't have a > manual. Is there anything I can do? Singer Company itself can get you a copy of the original manual if you know the model number. Not a catch 22 like you think; a call to your local Singer Service Center and a brief description of the machine results in a model # in most cases (for example, the woman in charge asked what kind of bobbin my machine used and how it loaded (front or side of machine) and from that said ``oh, you have a #128 vibrating shuttle model.'' The charge for an owner's manual is generally around $4. Singer can be reached at 1-901-365-6613 to get the number of the offical service center nearest you. (In Canada call (514) 359-2000.) You can also look in the library for books about old sewing machines. There's a book available through the Santa Clara County Library (Cupertino branch) called _Machine Sewing_ by the Singer Sewing Machine Co. and published in 1923 and updated to contain all Singer machines through 1938. It tells you everything you'd ever want to know about those machines and their attachments. Get it on interlibrary loan if you're interested. (Santa Clara County library system, Cupertino branch, Card catalogue # 646.21 SINGER) 8) Where can I hook up with people to exchange quilt blocks? Read rec.crafts.textiles.quilting. They regularly have quilt block exchanges as well as numerous tips on how to make the perfect blocks. 9) How do I hem jeans? (thanks to Ingrid Verbree-Barnes) (1) A good needle is important. Some people even suggested needles which are made specially for jeans and denim. The size in No. 16. (2) Flatten the humps with a hammer before you begin to sew. (3) Prepare the hem differently. The three suggestions given for this approach were: (i) Trim excess fabric away from the humps, (ii) sew seam tape (or bias tape) onto the hem edge and fold this under instead of denim, (iii) cover the raw edge with "Seams Great" (a tricot nylon cut into thin strips) and complete the hem. (4) Get a tool which raises the presser foot to the height of the hump created by the seam. Some suggested tools were: (i) a jean-a-ma-jig, (ii) a jumper humper, (iii) a freebie from Nancy Zeiman of Oxmoor House called a plastic point turner, (iv) cardboard, wood, plastic or folded fabric placed under the presser foot. 10) What are available for children's sewing (ie patterns, fabrics, etc)? Fabric: Sewbaby! Box 11693 Champaign, IL 61826 cfnb@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Noel Brodsky) - $2 catalog refundable with first order. Buy four, get fifth one free. Includes apparel, home decor, stuffed toys, nursing garment, and children's accessories. Now featuring children's fabric! They stock hard to find stretch terry and K.P. Kids fabric. Check out the homepage at http://www.sewbaby.com Dimples 914 Southwind CT Collinsville IL 62234 (618) 345-3326 email - DimplesFab@aol.com For $5.00 people can receive their catalog and swatches 4-6 times a year. They offer Healthex and Osh-Kosh fabrics. Zoodads - Simply Kidz Fabric 1086 Willett Avenue East Providence, RI 02915 (401) 437-2470 Sewing Instruction: Sewing Prose Carol Hawkey cdhawkey@internetmci.com 1-800-729-7182 http://www.geocities.com/EnchantedForest/Dell/3793 11) What are the various patterns available? (paper, computer, services, other) Paper ----- Obibirim Fashions by Akweley Box 44211 Philadelphia, PA 19144 - Offers patterns for traditional African clothing. Designed by Akweley Ishangi. Reflect West African heritage and culture. Styles for men, women, and children. For color brochure, send SASE size 10 Vogue Patterns Altoona, PA 16603 1-800-766-3619 Approx $14 for 6 issues; each issue includes a 2-for-the-price-of-1 pattern coupon (plus $2 for shipping and handling) Butterick Patterns PO Box 569 Altoona, PA 16603 1-800-766-3619 URL appears to be coming soon. Approx $9 for 4 issues; each issue includes a 2-for-the-price-of-1 pattern coupon (plus $2 for shipping and handling) McCalls Patterns PO Box 3325 Manhattan, KS 66502-9917 1-800-782-0323 http://www.mccall.com Approx $10 for 4 issues; each issues includes a free pattern coupon ($1.50 for shipping and handling). Kwik Sew 1-612 521-7651 New Look 1-616-683-4100 http://www.simplicitypatt.com Neue Mode Patterns Sullivans (USA) Inc. 224 William St. Bensenville, IL 60106. Orders: 800-862-8586 - A pattern company similar to Burda. Can be hard to find in U.S. sewing stores. For the name of the retailer nearest you, or a free mini-catalog if no retailer is near by (1995 entire catalog costs $10), write to the above address. Folkwear Patterns Taunton Press 63 South Main Street Box 355 Newtown, CT 06470-9959 1-800-888-8286 (203) 426-8171 (front desk: ask for ordering or subscription; for problems ask for customer service) FAX: 203-270-9373 - $2 for a Folkwear catalog. Stretch and Sew 285 Lawrence Street Eugene, Oregon Phone: (503) 465-4801 For a free Home Catalog call 800-547-7717, e-mail stretch@rio.com or FAX 503-465-8983 http://www.stretch-and-sew.com/ Simplicity 1-616-683-4100 http://www.simplicitypatt.com (this URL also has links to New Look and Style) Computer -------- First, check out this cool web site: http://www.hk.super.net/~rlowe/sew.html (thanks, Raymond!) Symmatry: Created by Wild Ginger. This is the closest thing to what they use in industry. It's highly recommended by professional pattern makers. Right now, it's only available for Windows. However, the owner prefers Macs and runs Symmatry on his Power Mac. Wild Ginger Software, Inc. 394 Dover Glen Drive Antioch, TN 37013 This is right outside Nashville for those of you wanting to know. Also, the local number given for us is no longer correct...it is now: (615) 360-7526 voice (615) 399-2103 fax However, the toll free number, e-mail and website addresses were correct: (888) 929-9453 toll free info@wild-ginger.com www.wild-ginger.com Fittingly Sew: >> Here is the official note regarding copyrights from the owner. From: A. Bartley <72133.3102@CompuServe.COM> Bartley Software Inc. has ceased to operate. However, the corporation has not been dissolved yet. It is still a legal entity and still owns the copyright on Fittingly Sew (R). A number of organizations have indicated interest in taking over Fittingly Sew. When that happens, the new owner will take ownership of the copyright. So the answer is -- it is illegal to copy Fittingly Sew. Dress Shop: Personal Patterns by WaterFountain Software: 13 E.17 St. 3rd fl New York NY 10003 phone: 1-800-605-7460 fax: 1-212-929-1025 http://tribeca.ios.com/~wfsinc wfsinc@tribeca.ios.com Services -------- Unique Patterns Design Limited 1-800-543-i-sew http://www.nstn.ca/import/unique/index.html - I saw their advertisment in a sewnews. I received information that they are now allowing the seamstresses to measure themselves. To sign up is about $35US. I received a video and a binder with a number of patterns in it. I'll count & give more details. They are the basic patterns (skirts, slacks, tunics, jackets) for women. The patterns also contain information such as which body shape it's recommended for. You order a pattern from this catelog. It gets printed on their 72" plotter and mailed to you. So, in theory, it's pre-altered for you. I got myself measured and I bought three patterns. I was impressed with the quality of the paper...it's the nice, solid stuff. The shirt I made cut out easily and was sewn together quickly (it was a simple color blocked tank top). I felt the instructions were to the point and very clear. And it fit!! More when I make the skirt and pants. Creating Your Own ------------------ BonFit 1-800-258-0555 - Note: This is what I, the faqkeeper, own & use & I love it. A plastic generic pattern piece that can be adjusted in just about every direction. There are four kits that can be ordered for women's sizes: skirts, pants, shirt, advanced shirt (extra collars & templates for princess seaming). What you do is figure out what you want to create (ie a pencil skirt with kick pleat and patch pockets), measure yourself, add in the ease that you want, dial in the information onto the BonFit patterner piece, place it on the cloth, trace, double check the measurements to verify that it matches your body, make any adjustments, cut the fabric. It's not recommended for beginning sewers. You need to have a good idea of how to put together garments as there are no cookbook directions for garment construction. You can mail Bonfitter@aol.com to get a sample newsletter that she maintains. SureFit - I'm not really sure what this is for & would love to have someone write me up a paragraph description But here's what I have from cutting & pasting comments: I too use the Sure Fit Pattern system (and have all 4 sets). I have used them all and frankly don't know what I would do without them. Making costumes for many different sized men and women would be impossible for me to do without this basic tool. I have never found a person that the pattern didn't cover. I still buy patterns, but I first use the Sure Fit pattern to make a sloper for that person, then add the bought pattern details to it. I've gotten very good at cutting and pasting! On the down side, it has taken some experience to get really good at using Sure Fit. For one, I have learned to take more measurements than it asks for, since not all people are shaped and proportioned the same way (for example, I take an upper arm width measurement to make sure the pattern has enough ease ever since I got burned once). The address for Sure-Fit is: Sure-Fit Designs P.O. Box 5567 Eugene, Oregon 97405 (503)344-0422 Glenda Sparling is the lady who designed the system and will give you support as you learn how to use it. Cut To Fit: How to Make Clothes that Fit I got the author Karen Howland to write a blurb for me: From: KKHowland@aol.com After many frustrating experiences trying to fit commercial patterns to my clients, I found a much easier way to fit: make the pattern to fit in the first place. This is easier than it sounds, and is really rather fun. Patternmaking begins with a sloper, a basic fitting pattern that includes wearing ease. The sloper represents the needed fit. By designing from this sloper, the fit is built into the pattern. Cut to the Fit explains in a step-by-step format how to draft skirt, bodice, and sleeve slopers. Drafting pants is also covered. To make the math of patternmaking easier, I also have a 30" metal ruler that includes a half scale and a quarter scale. No dividing numbers necessary. Cut to the Fit costs $39.99 plus 4.00 shipping. The ruler is $14.99 plus $3.00 shipping when ordered separately, but the book and ruler together are $49.99 plus 6.00 postage. Illinois residents please add sales tax to the before shipping price. Send check or money order to: Kensinger Press 1316 W. Pine St Chillicothe IL 61523 888-683-2032 Alternate # 309-274-4160 Accepts MasterCard or Visa 12) What are the best scissors? What are the rotary cutters? What are the electric cutters? Best Scissors ------------- The best are really what works for you. Some commonly used scissors are gingher, fiskars, and Electric Cutters ---------------- Sew-Rite Pro Cut - Electric rotery cutter that is cordless. Built in blade sharpener. Tacony corporation. No review available. They claim that they're available at ClothWorld, Fabric Centers of America, House of Fabrics and Northwest Fabrics. Price seems to vary. One ad was 99.95. One ad was $89 postpaid at Maryland Sewing Machine Center; 6280 Branch Ave; Camp Springs, MD 20748 (301-899-7200) 13) What are Dress Forms and how do I get them? There are three ways to go about getting a dress form. The first way is to check out your local thrift store, a garage sale, flea market, or ads in the paper. This is a great way to save money and see if you like it well enough. A good friend of mine found one that was almost her body measurements for $25 at a garage sale. She didn't need it to be exact for this level of her sewing. Here are some tips on second-hand dress forms: Inspect it carefully, inside and out. Test the dials/screws and make sure they turn well. They may have gotten rusty, but as long as they are not completely worn out, they can be cleaned up and used. Do make sure that it will fit you. If you are very large or very small, crank out the dials to the maximum and minimum settings and measure the dress form against your form. If the fabric covering is ripped and/or stained, just cover the whole thing with a thin, snug t-shirt once you've set it to your measurments (this will also cover up the dials or the seams between panels). I think $30 (and under) is a fair price for a used dress form in good condition. Anything over $50 is highly suspect, since that is 1/2 the price of a decent new one and you might as well save up the money if you're that close. Unique and/or vintage dress forms could cost quite a bit more, but then, you might not want to use it as a dress form. (Thanks to Trystan for the tips on this!) The second way is to make one. There have been articles printed in Threads on how to use tape to create a basic form. Local shops and local American Sewing Guilds may offer classes. There is one mail order kit for creating your own foam dress form. I don't have it with me at work, but will type it in to this area when I remember. The final way is to order from a company. There are two types: adjustible and non-adjustible. The adjustible is usually made of plastic plates with foam on them that can be moved around via dials. The non-adjustible is a large foam "body" that gets formed to your figure by means of a muslin shell that you fit to yourself and then zip onto the form. I've heard that the adjustible can be flimsy. And I've heard that the non-adjustible is not very flexible when going through changes (i.e. when gravity starts to work). I sent off a request for information from Dress Rite Forms of Chicago. I was impressed with their brochure, but haven't ordered one yet. Personally, I would go for a non adjustible and then just add extra pads as needed. There is a company out there that sells foam pads for those special places. Update: Yours Truly was given a Uniquely You for Christmas from Santa Husband. I haven't received it yet, but will update this more with my trials and tribulations of creating the cover. We stood in line at New York Fabrics for 90 minutes because they were having 30% off everything for 3 hours only and the forms were on sale for 99. So we were out the door for $75 (that includes our local sales tax). I know dress forms exist for men, but haven't really found any information on them. Also, I haven't found information on pants forms. Another tip from a helpful reader: If you buy a dress form, it's usually expensive enough that you don't want to have to buy another one if you gain 10 pounds (or lose 10 pounds), and very few women are proportioned exactly as the dress forms are. Using towels, pins and a tape measure, pad the dressform with rolled towels until it was exactly the right size and evened out. It's a long, painful process, but it's worth it. Another tip from a helpful reader: Stuff bras and then position as needed. NEW: For those who want to make their own dress form from duct tape, check out this URL: http://www2.netcom.com/~leahna/DuctTapeDouble.html 14) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ? There are three textile related FAQs that I maintain. The first concentrates on general sewing questions and supply information and restoring antique sewing machines. The second list concentrates on costuming and historical clothing. The third posting contains a list of books that cover sewing, fitting and pattern drafting. Do check out: http://www.softworld.com/sewing/sewdir.htm as it has a great number of resources as well as pointers to other FAQs. When looking for a FAQ list, first do the obvious and check the relevant newsgroup for articles with "FAQ" in the subject line. If you don't know how to check articles marked as read, your sysadmin can tell you. Next, try the group news.answers since this FAQ is crossposted there. Again, your sysadmin can tell you the commands to use in searching. If you cannot find the FAQ on your system, you can retrieve a copy from Jonathan Kamen's archive of periodic postings. For general instructions on the server, send email containing the commands "help" and "send index" (no quotes, separate lines) to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu For a list of all periodic postings that are archives in news.answers, email the command "send usenet/news.answers/index" to the server. via anonymous FTP: Periodic postings including FAQs are archived at "rtfm.mit.edu" in the directory "/pub/usenet". The textile FAQs are: /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part1 /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part2 /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1 /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2 /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part3 via email server: The address of the server is mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu. To retrieve files, send email to the server with a blank subject and one or more of these lines in the body: send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part1 send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part2 send usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1 send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2 send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part3 via FidoNet: If you're on FidoNet, you can get the FAQs from Needles_Threads. Just send a message to the Moderator, and she will see to it you get a copy. via WWW: Check out: http://www.jcave.com/~dybitter/faqs.html End of Part 2 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- /\ /\ | lfabans@adobe.com (Lara Fabans) . . |-------------------------------------------------------------- = = | Adobe Systems Publishing Division v | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- - Lara Fabans - Adobe FrameMaker UNIX Platform QA 408-536-6610 User Contributions:Part1 - Part2 [ Usenet FAQs | Web FAQs | Documents | RFC Index ] Send corrections/additions to the FAQ Maintainer: lfabans@adobe.com
Last Update March 27 2014 @ 02:11 PM
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