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Textile Related Books FAQ: Part 3 of 3

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Part 3 of 3 of the Textile Books FAQ:

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Books on Fitting:

IF: Introduction to fitting 

Many standard sewing references include some sections on altering patterns for
fitting.  In particular, you may want to check out:
	RDCGtS: Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
	VSB: The Vogue Sewing Book
	SSSbS: Singer's Sewing Step by Step
	VBSbSGtST: The Vogue/Butterick Step By Step Guide To Sewing Techniques
	SB: Sandra Betzina's books
	NZ: Nancy Zieman's books and videos
	T: New books from Taunton Press


Alterations come in two sorts:

-small alterations that are generally made along seam lines or dart lines and
can be made during the fitting stage.  Ideally, if you can buy the right size
pattern you should only need this sort of alteration.  It helps if you have a
multi size pattern and can put several patterns sizes together (i.e. bodice
size XX, skirt size YY).

-large alterations that involve redrafting parts of the pattern (typically
slashing and spreading or overlapping).  

_The Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing_, _Vogue Book of Sewing_ and
_Vogue Book of Fitting and Alteration_ discuss both methods.  Both have
slightly more emphasis on the first method; which is appropriate.  Good books
on pattern drafting discuss many of the techniques used in the second form of
alterations.  An understanding of drafting techniques will help during major
pattern alterations.


SRL,PF: _Singer Reference Library: The Perfect Fit_: 

A good introduction to fitting with beautiful photos, but not quite as
complete as several of the other books available.  Still it covers most of the
common alterations necessary. The introductory chapters discuss garment ease,
figure analysis and taking measurements. The section on adjustments shows pin
fitting a tissue pattern (can you *really* do this?  without a helper?) and
fitting as you sew.  Then there is a large fitting section that shows
photographs of common fitting problems and minor and major adjustments for
correcting them. _The Perfect Fit_ is the only fitting books I have seen that
uses color photos instead of drawings and this can be extremely useful.  _The
Perfect Fit_ is also very well organized; if you read through it once it can
be used regularly as a reference book.

Additional comments from Marie-Christine Mahe [MAHE@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu]
What really makes the Singer book unique is the use of photos.  Each problem
is presented in mild and severe form, so you can tell easily what the pattern
companies consider as a real objective problem.  There are so many people
running around with distorted body images that it's very useful to be able to
look at 2 pictures and see that you only have a mild case of square shoulders
or big thighs or whatever, or a really serious case of skinny arms.  Moreover,
the adjustments also come in 2 versions: the easy one for the mild cases, and
the slash-and-rip ones everyone else recommend, but only for the extreme
cases.  I haven't seen any other book that makes such a clear distinction
between the possible adjustments and why you'd want to use one or the other.
Of course, you can also slide and pivot, but that really falls into the more
extreme category too.  Most people really only need small adjustments, if any,
and these are rarely explained so well.

Additional comments [trytten@laurium.cps.msu.edu (Deborah Trytten)]: 
Go to the store and buy the Singer Reference Library Fitting Book.  It's a
gem.  I found out things about my figure that I never knew before.  I had
always thought that my fitting problems came about because I am large busted.
Come to find out, that's only half of the problem.  The other half was that I
have narrow shoulders.  They have hundreds of pictures of fitting problems and
the cause.  I was paging through it when I saw this weird front armhole gap
that shows up on all my clothing.  Then I started measuring, and found out
that my shoulders are very narrow--and I had never suspected it.  Give it a
try.  It's as painless as fitting can be.


VF: Vogue Fitting 

_Vogue Fitting_: If you just want to look at one book, this is probably the
best one.  It only covers fitting and is fairly complete in it's treatment of
alteration techniques.  It should be available in many stores for about $15
(paperback).  You'll certainly have no problem ordering it.

Vogue fitting : the book of fitting techniques, adjustments, and alterations /
  [writer, Sandra Lenker ; illustrator, Phoebe Gaughan ; editor, Helen Moore].
  -- New York : Harper & Row, 1987, c1984.  192 p. 



FF: Fabulous Fit 

_Fabulous Fit_. Butterick Publishing Company.  This book was printed in about
1977 and is now out of print.  I like this book slightly better than _Vogue
Fitting_, but both are good books.  I believe Butterrick and Vogue are owned
by the same parent company, so this book has also been called _The Vogue
Sewing Book of Fitting, Adjustments and Alterations_.

The Vogue sewing book of fitting, adjustments, and alterations.
  [The Vogue sewing book of fittings, adjustments, and alterations]
  Fabulous fit / [editor, Patricia Perry]. -- New York : Butterick Fashion
Marketing Co., c1977.
  190 p., [6] leaves of plates : ill. ; 26 cm.
  "Also published in hardcover as The Vogue sewing book of fittings,
adjustments, and alterations ... (third edition, 1977)."
  Includes index.


MYCF: Making Your Clothes Fit 

_Making Your Clothes Fit_ by Patricia Burkhart Smith. This book was also
published in the 1970's and is out of print.  I like this book a lot.  It
consists of a page of pictures that show common fitting problems with pictures
on the opposite page that shows the appropriate adjustment.  This book
concentrates on the smaller adjustments; I am not sure whether or not it shows
the large adjustments.





Books on Pattern Drafting:


IPD: Brief intro to subject of pattern drafting 

Basically there are three methods that designers use.  Most designers use a
combination of several of the methods.  

Initial patterns are drafted from a series of instructions based on the
measurements of an individual body.  These patterns which are often called
basic slopers.  Typically this system is used to design slopers for basic
pants, a basic bodice and a basic dress and the slopers are then modified with
flat pattern methods to create new designs.  All basic slopers fit the body
snugly with minimum ease.  Many pattern books from the 1800's discuss drafting
complex dresses and suits using body measurements, but today this method is
used mainly for slopers.

Flat pattern methods take basic sloper patterns and alter them into more
sophisticated patterns.  This is probably the most widely used method.  The
basic principles are slashing and spreading.  Some pattern makers use pivoting
in addition to or instead of the spreading step.  The books on flat pattern
drafting show you how to cut lines on the original pattern and manipulate the
pattern pieces to get a completely different pattern.  One basic principle is
how to move or eliminate darts in order to change the drape of the pattern and
the design ease.  Pivoting is particularly useful for moving darts from one
part of a pattern to another.

Some of the steps in flat pattern drafting can be similar to the modifications
you might have to make when drastically adjusting the size of a pattern (e.g.
changing it 4-8 sizes).  For this sort of major modification you cannot adjust
at the seam lines, you must slash and spread the pattern to re-proportion all
parts of it.  The new Sewing Basics section of Threads magazine has shown a
number of slash and spread modifications that you may need to solve some common
fitting problems.

The third method is draping.  In draping a piece of muslin is pinned directly
to a dress dummy (or even a 1/2 or 1/4 scale dress dummy!).  Draping gives you
immediate feedback about the way the cloth hangs.  Many people drape with
muslin for initial experiments and use the cloth they intend to use for a
advanced draping to get a better feel for the drape of the final fabric.

Many of these books discuss flat pattern methods.  A few books such as {PFD:}
and {DD:} combine draping and flat pattern design. The Hillhouse and Mansfield
book discusses the appropriate uses for both draping and flat pattern design.
The Armstrong book discusses both but concentrates on flat pattern design.

Pattern drafting books are not available in most bookstores.  Universities
with large programs in fashion design will carry some of these books, possibly
as textbooks.  Many of these books are fairly expensive.  It can be very
useful to preview the books by reading through them at a good University
library or borrowing them from an InterLibrary Loan program before you
purchase them.  Several mail order places carry a range of books on drafting;
check Hard to Find Needlework Books for old and new books and Unicorn Books
for new books.  (See the sewing FAQ for more information on these places.)

These reviews are based on the subjects that the books cover and the clarity 
of the illustrations and writing. In short, these reviews are from a 
well-read, but inexperienced, hobbyist in the pattern drafting field.


PFD: Patternmaking for Fashion Design 

- Patternmaking for Fashion Design. Helen Joseph Armstrong. c. 1995. New York.
HarperCollins College Publishers. Highly recommended as a single all-in-one 
book for flat pattern + draping. It's somewhat expensive ($55+), but it is 
about 700 pages and covers a very wide range of subjects and alterations.  
If you want one book, I think this is the book to get.
ISBN: 0-673-98026-X    -this is on the sticker on the back
ISBN: 0-06-501789-7    -this is the one listed on the copyright
page--probably the right one.


EK: Ernestine Kopp's series of books 

- How to Draft Basic Patterns, 4th edition. Ernestine Kopp et.al. c. 1991. New
York. Fairchild. Describes making the basic slopers needed for _DAttFP_ and 
_NFAfDAttFP_ from either standard measurements (provided through size 18) or 
from individual measurements.  Basic slopers for sleeve (fitted and straight), 
skirt, pants, bodice, maybe more.

- Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern, 5th edition.  Ernestine Kopp. c.
1981. New York. Fairchild. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67) Uses the basic slopers
and flat pattern methods to create a wide range of patterns.

- New Fashion Areas for Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern.  Kopp,
Ernestine, et al.  Sequel to _Designing through the Flat Pattern_.  Interesting,
but fairly old (1972).  Includes some interesting sections, incl. a chapter on
capes, hoods, and cowls.

The three books by Kopp are a good, and fairly complete, intro to all aspects
of flat pattern design.  Of course, purchasing three books represents a
considerable investment. A great reference even for helping make commercial
patterns fit better. 


PPfD: Professional Patternmaking for Designers 

- Professional Patternmaking for Designers. Jack Handford.  This is a pretty
good book that is probably still in print. It is a one book intro to drafting
slopers and flat pattern design.  It's spiral bound and about $25.  You'll
probably have to special order it.  I can look up the publisher if you can't
find it in Books In Print.



DD: Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making 
	[HIST-COST] 1930's & 1940's

- Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making.  Marion Hillhouse and Evelyn
Mansfield. c. 1948. Boston. Houghton-Miffin. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67) Clear
instructions on draping, with excellent drawings of bodice, skirt, sleeve, and
neckline styles.  Perfect for reproducing styles of the 1940's. (Threads #30).
This is a GREAT book! Lots of draping examples.  Also lots of exercise for
flat pattern drafting. 

_Dress Design_ is one of the most comprehensive all-in-one books.  There is a
large chapter at the front that discusses fitting and making a master shell.
The rest of the book discusses both draping and flat pattern making
techniques.  A lot of information on making a good dress dummy, drafting and
fitting basic slopers, using slopers for more complex design.  It emphasizes
designs popular in the 1940's.



MPD: Modern Pattern Design 
	[HIST-COST] 1930's & 1940's

- Modern Pattern Design.  Harriet Pepin. c. 1942.  Drafting slopers and slash
and spread modifications.  Has many neat ideas for 1940 style clothing.  Many
unique cuts, etc.  I found this in a used book store and really like it.  It's
not quite as good as the Hillhouse and Mansfield book, but it's still a pretty
good all-in-one reference.  


AFD: Art of Fashion Draping 

This book is a good general introduction to draping.  The book contains many
clear illustrations and takes you through draping many different styles step
by step.  Of the draping books that I have read this book appears to be the
most thorough introduction as well as the book that would be most useful for
someone trying to learn draping from scratch.  The illustrations show you
exactly how to place the muslin material and the hand motions to use while
smoothing it and controlling darts.

The Art of Fashion Draping. Connie Amaden-Crawford. Fairchild Publications.
copyright 1989. 307 pages. (available from Unicorn as of 4/92; see sewing FAQ)


DfFD: Draping for Fashion Design 

This book has good directions for draping many styles of bodices, necklines,
princess seam variations, bodices with unique yokes, skirts and cowls at the
neckline, armhole and waist.  The book illustrates a wide variety of styles.
The book uses only draping methods, it does not include flat pattern
alterations. Many other books use flat pattern methods for some of the yokes
and cowls that are draped in this book.

The illustrations and descriptions in this book are adequate.  The
illustrations and text often do not include details about how you should
smooth the fabric over the dress form.  For example, the illustrations in
{AFD:} and {PD:} typically contain arrows showing the position and direction
appropriate for using your hand to smooth the fabric in each step.  {DfFD:}
seldom includes this level of detail.

Draping for Fashion Design. Hilde Jaffe and Nurie Relis. c. 1973.  Reston
Publishing Co (a Prentice-Hall Company). (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37) ($27,
9/89)


PD: Precision Draping [HIST-COST] 1940's

This book provides well illustrated instructions for draping many of the
styles that were popular in the 1940's.  The illustrations show how to lay the
cloth and how to smooth it on the dress form.  This is a good general
introduction to draping and particularly useful for anyone that wants to
recreate the styles of the 1940's.  The book uses some flat pattern methods to
show alterations for sleeves, yokes and skirts.  The book covers only women's
clothing and does not include pants.

Precision Draping. Nelle Weymouth Link. Funk and Wagnalls, copyright 1948.
Check for this book through Interlibrary Loan.


PoFPD: Principles of Flat Pattern Design

- Principles of Flat Pattern Design by Nora M. MacDonald and Ann Weibel.  For
a Textile Arts class. Spring 1991.  Spiral, $30.  I've looked through this and
it seems like a good book on flat pattern methods.  Starts with a few chapters
on pivoting.


HtMSP:  How to Make Sewing Patterns

- How to Make Sewing Patterns, rev. ed. Donald. H. McCunn. c1977. Drafting
patterns from  39 body measurements to create slopers. Some notes on flat 
pattern methods.  Includes directions for making own customer dress form.
Has both women's and men's basic patterns. This book was reviewed in the Sep 
issue of Sew News. It's now available in softcover for $16.95 + $4 S&H from 
Blue Feather Products Box2, Ashland, OR 97520. 
To order by credit card (800) 472-2487 or fax (503) 482-2338.


FoMFD: Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design 

This is a book about drafting suits from individual measurements.  A wide
variety of men's suits are illustrated.  Of course, many of the illustrations
show styles that were popular in the late 1960's and early 1970's.  However
many of the patterns for formal attire are relatively timeless.  I know of no
other book that contains such a variety of men's patterns drafted from
measurements.

Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design: A Guide to Tailored Clothes.  Masaaki
Kawashima. Fairchild Publications.  copyright 1974.  ISBN 87005-105-9.
Available from Unicorn as of 4/92.


MPCfM: Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear 
	[mgrice@monu6.cc.monash.edu.au (Mr M. Grice)]
_Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear_ by Winifred Aldrich
(Oxford: BSP Professional, 1990 - 2nd Edition)

(My copy of this book is actually the first edition, however, the second
edition is essentially the same with the addition of a chapter on Computer
Aided Designing (CAD) in pattern drafting.)

The book covers the basic principles in metric sizing, taking body
measurements, how to use the basic blocks (slopers), developing basic blocks
for casual wear, sleeve variations, trousers, coats, nightwear and the classic
suit.  A separate chapter covers adapting the men's blocks to women's wear
(essentially darting the blocks).

The instructions are extremely detailed, with very accurate (to scale?)
drawings of what the blocks and adapted patterns should look like.  The
development of adaptations such as extended shoulder lines, lowered armhole
(easy fitting) and combinations thereof is very well described.  The chapter
on collars (shirts and jackets) removes much of the uncertainty that I have
found in other books on pattern drafting.

The criticisms I have are that the adaptations described are a little
conservative, the book is based on the metric system of measurement (which
personally is not a problem, but may put others off), and the chapter on CAD.
As a computing professional I found the discussion on CAD for pattern drafting
to be too high-level, with the focus being on systems found in large
production environments.

On the whole, the book gives comprehensive coverage to various aspects of
pattern drafting of interest to the "home" pattern cutter.


TS:  Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way 

- Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way. Clarence Paulin. I found this book in
a used book store.  It's a bit old (60's?), but seems to be reasonably
complete.  It's mostly for drafting and making men's suits; women's suits are
a chapter tacked on to the end.  Paulin shows how to draft the pattern based on
measurements and then adjust as needed during the first fit.


S: Sleeves [HIST-COST] drafting sleeves

This is a collections of unusual sleeve designs that may be useful for anyone
doing costuming or historical costuming.  Many of the designs are too unusual
for daily clothing.  However if you need to design fancy or unusual sleeves
for clothing from the 1500 - 1900 era you may find this book very useful. You
may have to search a bit to find this book; check Interlibrary Loan Programs
and Unicorn books.

Sleeves: A Treasury of Ideas, Techniques and Patterns.  Louise Todd Cape.
Copyright 1988.  Coat of Arms Press, Box 1, Penland, North Carolina 28765.


FDPS: Fashion Design for the Plus Size 

This book is written for a student designer.  It discusses some of the common
figure types for larger women, some standard design tricks that can be
flattering.  The largest section discusses introductory drafting and draping
techniques for making slopers and altering the slopers to make some
complementary designs.  The last section discusses grading for sizes 14-24.
This book may be useful if you are doing a lot of designing for larger women.
Most of the topics and techniques are covered more thoroughly in other books,
however this book concentrates on the problems most common in larger women.
If you're not sure how useful it will be, check for it in a library before you
buy it.

Fashion Design for the Plus Size. Frances Leto Zangrillo. copyright 1990.
Fairchild Publications.  ISBN 87005-677-8.  Available from Unicorn 4/92.


GTfMD: Grading Techniques for Modern Design 

_Grading Techniques for Modern Design_ shows pictures of standard pattern
pieces and shows how they should be slashed and expanded in order to regrade
them.  I believe they start with the industry standard size 12 (?) and show
regradings up and down for most women's sizes.  I once used the techniques in
this book combined with the pictures in the _Reader's Digest_ book to alter a
dress pattern from size 12 to about size 18.  I slashed the pattern in the
places indicated by the book and used their charts as a guideline for
spreading the pattern.

Price, Jeanne. Grading techniques for modern design / by Jeanne Price and
Bernard Zamkoff.  New York : Fairchild Publications, c1974. ix, 132 p. : ill.

See Also: article on pattern grading in Threads, issue #29, June/July 1990.
Good intro.

See Also: _Grading for the Fashion Industry, the Theory and Practice_ by
Patrick Taylor and Martin Shoben.  London: Hutchinson and Co, LTD. 1984. (from
a reference in Threads issue #29).  A complex and comprehensive text, from an
apparel manufacturers viewpoint.  Includes a survey of 34 body measurements
(in metric) as well as two and three dimensional grading for missy bodices,
skirts, sleeves and pants.


MNPD: Miscellaneous notes on Pattern Drafting 

I have seen recommendations for the following books, but have never read them.
The recommendations came from a "Best of Out of Print Dressmaking Books"
article in Threads and references from other articles.

Flat Pattern Design. Allyn Bane. c. 1972. (out of print). New York.
McGraw-Hill. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67)

Dress Pattern Designing: The Basic Principles of Cut and Fit, 5th edition. c.
1986. Natalie Bray. London. Collins. (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37) 

More Dress Pattern Designing, 4th edition. Natalie Bray.  c. 1986. London.
Collins. (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37)  

Pattern Making by the Flat-Pattern Method, 7th edition.  Norma R. Hollen and
Carolyn Kundel. c.  1981. New York. Fairchild. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67). 
(Note: Threads #11, pg 37 gives c. as 1972 (?).)

Clear-Cut Pattern Making by the Flat Pattern Method. Mary Gorgen Wolfe. c.
1982. New York. MacMillan. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67)


- In Threads #21 (spring 1989) there is an article about Madeleine Vionnet by
Betty Kirke.  Vionnet designed clothes in the 20's and used bias cuts
extensively.  The article states that Betty Kirke is working on a book about
Madeleine Vionnet.  It should be interesting!  I keep checking for this book
in Books In Print and looking for articles about it.  I have not seen any
evidence of the book yet.

An Update Thanks to the People Out There:
The Vionnet book by Betty Kirke, referred to in Threads Magazine,was published 
several years ago.  It is in the library of the Fashion Institute of 
Technology in New York City.  An appointment can be made to work with 
it there for a specified time.   It is an oversize book, technical 
but clear and quite beautiful. Perhaps it is also in other 
institutions' libraries.                        
A subsequent issue of Threads gave the author's number and address.
The author told me that the book was published in Japan in a limited edition 
because of cost and that it could by purchased frome her for approximately $250.
She also would provide an English translation for the text.  Obviously this 
info is now dated but I hope it helps.  I am sure Threads still has a lead on 
this.  

Another update:
Madame Vionnet is on the web!!
Check out http://www.vionnet.com/


- Patternmaking and Design.  Antionette Colicchio & Burr D. Coe. c. 1967.
This book uses flat pattern methods.  It emphasizes designs popular in the
60's.  This book might be hard to find as it appears to be from a small
publisher or possibly even self published.



Miscellaneous Books:

DD: Decorative Dressmaking [HIST-COST]

Dressmaking details and techniques common in the first half of the 20th
century (1900 - 1940 or so).  Each chapter describes the sewing techniques,
shows pictures and illustrations of a number of garments and includes a
project, generally with a scaled pattern (in sizes small, medium and large).
Suggests and techniques can easily be applied to commercial patterns also; the
charted patterns in the book have minimal sizing.  The pictures and drawings
of techniques and variations are very inspirational. Chapters include:

1) Flounces: Using flounces and ruffles on skirts and collars.  Circular,
spiral and shaped flounces.  Appropriate materials, finishing edges,
variations.  Pattern for simple dress with flounced collar at neckline.

2) Stripes: Creating interesting designs with stripes.  Skirts, shirts hand
dresses.  Chevron patterns, gored skirts, pleated stripes. Pattern for a dress
with a pleated skirt and striped accents at neckline and hipline.

3) Piping: Types of piping, making piping, cording.  Piping to accent seams or
edges in jackets, shirts and dresses.  Pattern for simple linen jacket and
pants with cording highlights in seams.

4) Topstitching: Topstitching or quilting accents on collars, cuffs, yokes and
hats. Pattern for a boiler suit (simple pants-suit) with topstitching on wide
collar.

5) Pintucks: Using pintucks to add design and accents to skirts, jackets.
Using pintucks to control fullness in blouses, skirts.  Pattern for pintucked
jacket and skirt with pintucks on collar, waist, pockets, yoke and front of
skirt.

6) Applique: Appliqued designs on clothing.  Somewhat "60's-ish".  Pattern for
caftan with a white on white appliqued pattern.

7) Bands and Bindings: Making and using bindings.  Classic 1940's suits with
bound edges as an accent.  Binding garment edges.  Using binding on garment
seams (bind one edge and sew seam together with an overlap seam).
Incorporating bands into a pattern for accents, either inset bands or bands
sewn over seam allowances.  Pattern for a full (oversized?) winter coat with
banded seams and edges.

8) Pleats and Tucks: Making pleats, marking pleats, pressed pleats, inverted
pleats, partly stitched pleats, horizontal pleats, pleats in jackets,
combining pleats and stripes. Pattern for pleated top and skirt that uses
striped material for added interest.

9) Ruching: Adding bands of ruching to dresses, jackets, blouses for
detailing.  Rouching in garments, for example as gathering to form shaping for
the bust of a dress.  Altering a pattern to add strips of ruching.  Altering
a pattern to incorporate ruching (e.g. all-over gathering) in the garment
seamlines. Pattern for an evening dress adapted for ruching.

10) Fagoting: Making fagoting strips and sewing them together.  Different
embroidery stitches to use. Fagoting in garment seams, collars, yokes, hems.
Patterns for an oversized thick mohair jacket made of strips joined by
fagoting.

Decorative Dressmaking. Sue Thompson. Rodale Press. 1985. ISBN 0-87857-579-0.
Has been available from Hard to Find Needlework Books (see sewing FAQ).



MYOJC: Make Your Own Japanese Clothes.  [HIST-COST]

Detailed directions for making a traditional kimono, outer robe, haori jacket,
hanten jacket, wraparound top, vest, slacks, obi sashes and tabi socks.
Includes comments about using traditional (14" wide) materials and modern
materials.  Includes notes for fitting Westerners who are often larger than
traditional Asian people.  Meticulous details!

Make Your Own Japanese Clothes: Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear.  John
Marshall.  ISBN 0-87011-865-x. $16.95 (paper). 1988. Kodansha International
Ltd.


FYF: Flatter Your Figure. 

Includes tests (using a mirror, stick, string and helpers) for about 20 figure
features such as short legs, short or long waisted, swayback, shape of
shoulders, bust, waist, hips, and arms.  Also analyzes shape of face and
haircut. Advise for deciding which figure features are advantages, which are
minor disadvantages and which are major disadvantages.  A section showing many
basic garment shapes explains which are favorable or unfavorable for various
figures.  Discusses camouflage common problems, accenting your best features,
and using garment lines to create illusions.  Emphasizes a positive attitude;
accent positive features and don't draw attention to less desirable features.
Advise for balancing conflicting advise (e.g. styles that are good for some of
your features but bad for other features).

This subject is usually covered in general sewing references, but FYF is a
much more comprehensive guide.  Recommended for people who sew their own
clothing or buy ready made.  Illustrates and discusses women's clothing only.

Flatter Your Figure. Jan Larkey.  $9.95 ISBN 0-13-321795-7. 1991.  Prentice
Hall / Simon Schuster.  Larkey had an article in Threads in ?early 1991? that
contained a number of the ideas in FYF.


Quilt/Craft:
ST: How to Make and Design Stuffed Toys. Rudi de Sarigny, New York;Dover 
Publications, 1971.
	>It includes a number of patterns for animals (bunny, teddy bear, panda,
	poodle, elephant, camel, giraffe, monkey, circus dog).


SMG: Sew Many Gifts, Sew Little Time (Chris Rankin) Sterling/Lark, 1994
128pp, $24.95 ($34.95 Canada) 50+ special projects including practical, cute,
decorative, etc. Many don't require a pattern, but those that do have patterns
included. Sterling Publishing Co.; 387 Park Ave S; New York, NY 10016
1-800-848-1186 or fax 212-213-2495

QAC: Quiltworks across Canada - Eleven Contemporary Workshops 
Gail Hunt 1996
Price: prepublishing price $49.95 Canadian(before Sept. 15) $59.95
after Sept. 15 due to be released Oct. 15 1996
Published by: Pacific Quiltworks
4740 Mountain Highway, North Vancouver
B.C.  Canada
V7K 2Z9
Fax: 604-990-9161
e-mail:  ump@unix.infoserve.net

This book is a large hard covered coffee table style book which
includes over 240 pages, 500 excellent full colour reproductions of
exquisite contemporary quilts most of which have never been seen
before in print.  It also features 11 contemporary workshops
including: Blueprinting(cyanotypes), Drawing for the Terrified,
Watercolour Painting, Colour Value Wash, Realistic Flowers in 3-D,
Scrap Quilts, English Paper Peicing, Recycling Old Fabrics, Accuracy
with a Sewing Machine, Native Beadwork Designs, and Shibori.
These classes are taught by Canada's foremost teachers in Contemporary
Quiltmaking.

I had the opportunity to see the galleys of the book and a slide show
about the making of the book and would recommend that if you  have a
limited budget and want to get lots for it - this is definetely the
book for you.


Embellishment:
101E: 101 Embellishments (Janet Rostocki) Summa Design, 1994
40 pp, $14.50. Divided into chapters by embellishment type: beads,
buttons, dyes, fabrics, jewels, laces, paints, ribbons, sequins, threads, 
and trims.  Most chapters begin with a "You should know" tip about
the embellishment material. Provides space for you to write in your
own experiences, thoughts, designs, whatever. Summa Design, Box 666,
Vandalia, OH 45377. (need to include $2 P&H)


How To Find The FAQ:
If you cannot find the FAQ on your system, you can retrieve a copy from
Jonathan Kamen's archive of periodic postings.  For general instructions on
the server, send email containing the commands "help" and "send index" (no
quotes, separate lines) to
        mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu
For a list of all periodic postings that are archives in news.answers, email
the command "send usenet/news.answers/index" to the server.

via anonymous FTP: 
Periodic postings including FAQs are archived at "rtfm.mit.edu" in the 
directory "/pub/usenet". The textile FAQs are:
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part1
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part2
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part3

via email server:
The address of the server is mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu.  To retrieve files,
send email to the server with a blank subject and one or more of these lines
in the body:
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part1
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part2
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part3


via FidoNet:
If you're on FidoNet, you can get the FAQs from Needles_Threads.
Just send a message to the Moderator, and she will see to it you 
get a copy.

via WWW:
Check out:
http://www.jcave.com/~dybitter/faqs.html

End of Part 3
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Last Update March 27 2014 @ 02:11 PM