>>>>>>>>>>      BICYCLE REPAIR STAND SUMMARY      <<<<<<<<<<

The Park PRS6 was recommended by several (>5) responders; all
other models were recommended by no more than one responder.

	Park PRS6
		PROS:	full 360\degree rotation
			spring-loaded clamp is adjustable
			very stable
		CONS:	not height adjustable
			not easy to transport
			clamp probably can't work with fat-tubed mtn bike
		COST:	~$150
		SOURCE:	catalogs, local bike shops

	Park Consumer
		PROS:	foldable
			convenient
			portable
		CONS:	not as stable as PRS6
		COST:	~$100
		SOURCE:	catalogs, local bike shops

	Park BenchMount
		PROS:	stronger, and more stable, than many floor models
		CONS:	must have a workbench with room to mount the stand
		COST:	$???
		SOURCE:	???

	Blackburn
		PROS:	The stand folds flat and is portable.
			It has a 360 degree rotating clamp.
			It is relatively stable.
		CONS:	crank-down clamp does not seem to be durable
			crank bolt is not standard size; difficult to replace
			hard to get clamp tight enough for stable use
			clamp scratchs paint/finish
			problems getting rotating mechanism to work properly
		COST:	~$100
		SOURCE:	catalogs, local bike shops

	Performance
		PROS:
		CONS:	not too stable

	Ultimate Repair Stand
		PROS:	excellent quality
			includes truing stand
			includes carrying bag
		CONS:
		COST:	~$225
		SOURCE:	order through local bike shop
			the U.S. address for Ultimate Support Systems is :
				Ultimate Support Systems
				2506 Zurich Dr. 
				P.O. Box 470
				Fort Collins, CO. 80522-4700
				Phone (303) 493-4488

I also received three homemade designs. The first is quite simple:

	hang the bike from coated screw hooks
		(available in a hardware store for less that $5/pair)

The others are more sophisticated. Here are the descriptions provided
by the designers of the systems.

Dan Dixon <djd@hpfcla.fc.hp.com> describes a modification
of the Yakima Quickstand attachment into a freestanding workstand

	I picked up the Yakama clamp and my local Bike shop for
	around $25.  What you get is the clamp and a long carraige
	bolt with a big (5") wing nut. This is meant to be attached
	to their floor stand or their roof racks. The roof rack
	attachment is ~$60; expensive, but great for road trips.

	I, instead, bought a longer carraige bolt, a piece of
	3/4" threaded lead pipe, two floor flanges, and some 2x4's.
	(about $10 worth of stuff).

	You say you want to attach it to a bench (which should be easy)

                                      pipe
                      +- clamp        |            wing nut
                      |               |            |
                      V               |      +--+  V
                 | |---------+        V      |  |   O
                 | |         | |\_________/| |  |  /
                 | |   -O-   |=| _________ |=|  |==I
                 | |         | |/         \| |  |  \
                 | |---------+               |  |   O
                                             |  |
                                /\       /\  |  |<-2x4
                                |         |  |  |
                       flanges--+---------+  |  |
                                             |  |

	Excuse the artwork, but it might give you and Idea about
	what I mean. You could just nail the 2x4 to the bench or
	something. I really like the clamp because it is totally
	adjustable for different size tubes.

Eric Schweitzer <ERSHC@cunyvm.cuny.edu> prefers the following
set-up to the Park `Professional' stands that he also has.

	My favorite 'stand', one I used for many years, one that I
	would use now if my choice of stand were mine, is made very
	cheaply from old seats and bicycle chain. Two seats (preferably
	cheap plastic shelled seats) (oh...they must have one wire
	bent around at the front to form the seat rails...most seats
	do) have the rails removed and bent to form 'hooks'. The
	'right' kind of hooks are placed in a good spot on the ceiling
	about 5 or 6 feet apart. (really, a bit longer than the length
	of a 'typical' bike from hub to hub. If you do a lot of tandems
	or LWB recombants, try longer :) Form a loop in one end of the
	chain by passing a thin bolt through the opening between 'outer'
	plates in two spots on the chain. (of course, this forms a loop
	in the chain, not the bolt). The same is done at the other end
	to form loops to hold the seat rail/hooks. First, form the hooks
	so they form a pair of Js, about 2 inch 'hook's The hook for the
	front of the bike is padded, the one for the rear looped through
	the chain, squeezed together to a single hook, and padded.

	To use, hook the rear hook under the seat, or at the seat stays.
	Hook the front with each arm on oposite sides of the stem. Can
	also hook to head tube (when doing forks). Either hook can grab
	a rim to hold a wheel in place while tightening a quick release
	skewer or axle bolt. There is no restricted access to the left
	side of the bike. I try to get the BB of a 'typical' frame about
	waist height.

In closing, here is a general statement that only makes my decision
more difficult:

	My best advice is to consider a workstand a long term durable good.
	Spend the money for solid construction. Good stands don't wear or
	break, and will always be good stands until the day you die, at
	which point they will be good stands for your children. Cheese will
	always be cheese until it breaks.

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