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Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part5
Posting-Frequency: 15 Last-modified: 2002/4/26 Version: 3.9b See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge DISCLAIMER: Effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in this compilation, but the author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors, omissions, or damages resulting from the use of the information. Some of the information is opinion. The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of this FAQ may be reproduced PROVIDED that credit is given to the writers and the maintainer; that it is not published in any form without the prior written permission of the maintainer; and that the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a FREE copy of the final material; and that no changes are made without the express permission of the maintainer (faq@allpar.com = Dr. David Zatz). - - - - - - - - - - - - IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to faq@allpar.com. Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE. Instead, reply to faq2 at that allpar /dot/ com address. Thank you. - - - - - - - - - - - - Please do NOT ask me car-related questions, as I have a limited. personal knowledge; send them to the newsgroup. Thank you. - - - - - - - - - - - - PART V - Funny noises, oil leaks, temperature stuff Note that troubleshooting and diagnostic procedures are also in sections 3, 4, and 6. * For heaven's sake, if your antifreeze was just changed and your car started to overheat, find a different mechanic and purge the system of air bubbles. (See below). Index of oil leaks: (funny noises, temperature follow the oil leaks) 1. Oil loss from 2.5 (maybe 2.2) liter engine 2. Oil loss from 2.5/2.2 revisited 10. Oil seepage from the valve cover or oil pan gaskets 25. Oil leak - manual transmission (VERY common) 42. Oil loss/smoking from 3.0 V-6 - MOD 1/96 46. Oil in air filter area or in air intake 1. Oil loss from 2.5 (maybe 2.2) liter engine Chrysler replaced acote's 1991 Acclaim 2.5's valve seals (though there was no blue smoke on startup) and the PCV valve, and installed an oil restrictor valve, which he thinks was made standard in 1993. See also #10 and 46. Oil pan leaks appear to be common. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2. Oil loss from 2.2/2.5 revisited Joe Coffey used two hose clamps, one at each end, and a better fitting hose to fix an oil leak from the valve cover to the air breather on a Shadow/Sundance. Dan LaBrake said the culprit was the hose that went from the upper part of the valve to the underside of the air breather; oil collects in the breather and leaks onto the engine. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 10. Oil seepage from the valve cover or oil pan gaskets ** 2.2 and 2.5 liter engines only ** Lemon-Aid Used Car Guide: "1989-93... cylinder head and oil pan gaskets are prone to leaking." ... "1990-91 - Owners can get a new cylinder head gasket cover on models with 2.2L and 2.5L engines." (Jim Hoare) wmg051760@aol.com wrote of p/n 4773193, a new valve cover (1994?) which forms a superior seal on 2.5 engines, maybe 2.2s too. If anyone actually gets Chrysler to buy them one, let me know. Chances are you're on your own. Bob Meyer <robert_meyer@ncsu.edu> says: The valve covers on emission-controlled cars are vented through the inlet hose from the air cleaner to the valve cover and the PCV valve from the valve cover to the throttle body/intake manifold. If you are having a problem with valve cover oil leaks, then you should check whether these hoses, or the small crankcase air filters in the air cleaner, are blocked first before you reseal the valve cover. Around 1987, Chrysler switched from using a gasket to using RTV. In 1994, they switched to a 1 piece valve cover from a 3 piece cover. Mike Manning informs us that recall #467, issued in 1990, covers the valve cover gasket; he says that the gasket was replaced with blue goo. Once this stuff has set up, the cover needs to be re-tightened. We don't think the dealers usually do it correctly. Mike finally replaced his with a cork gasket. This is a known problem but reps deny it; the situation calls for assertiveness. Keep checking your engine, especially around the spark plug area, for seeping oil. Ask that your engine be cleaned every time the dealer fixes the seepage. If your car is out of warranty, try to have the seepage fixed anyway. (New advice: on second thought, just do it yourself, which is easier). Paul F. Schikora : Went to NAPA and got a gasket set and a bottle of gasket goo (orange colored stuff). Took my time cleaning the surfaces completely and applied the gasket & goo per instructions. No more leak. However, I'm sorry I didn't take the time to reseal the PCV connection cover. It's always bled quite a bit of oil into the valve and air filter. (Note: this was for 1987 model, which had a gasket). JoDee McKenney says: I'd use the gaskets and the high temp silicone on each of the metal surfaces. This allows a way to seal the parts together and still get them apart later. Daniel Stern warns: DO NOT DO THIS on an engine with mechanical lifters (i.e G/RG engines and early V8s) because there will be hell to pay when it comes time to adjust the tappet clearance. Duane P Mantick provides TSB 09-17-89 which advises replacing the original cover with one using RTV. The "cylinder head cover kit" is PN 5241066 and contains the cover, five screws, 2 end seals, four studs, but not RTV sealer PN 6500435. This TSB applies to "1989-1990 all domestic vehicles with 2.2L or 2.5L EFI engines" Michael J. Challis <bigchall@aone.com>, a Chrysler Master Tech, wrote that Mopar RTV silicon works well: "The trick to this stuff is to have a clean surface. Use brake parts cleaner to remove oil so you have a dry surface for the RTV to bond to." ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 25. Oil leak from manual transmission Applies to all cars and minivans with the manual trans A-523, A-543, and A-568 (most of them). The TSB (21-24-93) says that "vehicles that are in the dealership for any other reason should also be inspected for this leak condition." What is replaced is a remote vent assembly in place of the existing lock pin, and a new linkage adjusting procedure for future service. It should take about 20 minutes. Most dealers will say "no problem found" unless you stick the service advisor's finger into the oil leak. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 42. Oil loss/smoking from 3.0 V-6 Jim Thatcher: the smoking from his 3.0 liter engine was coming from the PCV housing. A redesigned valve cover handles the oil properly. Details from Keith Vicker (I think): inside the front valve cover, the PCV housing does not always drain oil properly. Drilling holes in this MAY cure the problem - we have no experience with that. Another reason: In the older 3.0 heads the exhaust valve guides sink into the head. The usual repair is to remove both cylinder heads, knock the guides back to their normal position, and have snap rings installed onto the guides so that they don't sink again. (Eric Eleazar, Dick Greenfield Dodge) Check the oil pressure sending unit. You'll see it if you lie down and look around the starter/oil filter area. A lot of 'em start leaking at about 75K or so. It'll cost you around $20 to replace. Put a drip pan under it. Then, gently back the old one out (threaded), and screw the new one in; don't over-torque it. (Stan A. Bidlack) Keith Vickers said: ... Pat Goss said that in his shop only about 1 in 250 needed the heads pulled. The seals can be replaced without pulling the heads. DJ Allen said: My '88 3.0L was smoking like a volcano. The valve guides were all in place. I replaced the valve guide seals while I was in there and there hasn't been one puff of smoke since. I used Keith Vickers' procedure. I found an 'on engine' valve spring compressor at my local parts store for $25 and it worked, but I struggled with it because of tight clearance. For more: http://www.allpar.com/fix/3fix.html ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 46. Oil in air filter area or in air intake There is a curtain in the valve cover which prevents most oil from being blown out the breather. Any oil in mist form should stay in mist and be captured by the air filter. I had a problem where someone replaced my leaking valve cover gasket and *forgot* to reinstall the curtain. I was blowing about a quart every 500 miles. The worst part was that it *looked* like my rings were blown. You would step on it on the freeway, oil would pump out the breather, go down the air heater hose and burn on the exhaust manifold producing oil smoke. (Thomas Lee Grice) This is often just from a stuck PCV valve. If it is, chances are it's leaking down to the air filter (and the air intake pipe) from a black hose which comes up to the air horn (2.2/2.5 engines). In the 2.5 (probably 2.2 as well) engine, oil can get sucked into the PCV system unless a baffle plate is installed. He did this and it worked. Index of Funny Noises: 1. Noise on turns 2. Dakota creak 3. 2.5L engine knocks/ticks; poor cold idle 4. 4-cylinders: snapping noise when starting/stopping (see #18) 5. Daytona rattle 6. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping 7. Whining or whistling noises from belt driven accessories (most FWD vehicles from 89-94). 8. Rattle from back of car (hatchbacks) 9. Rattles/noises from engine compartment 10. Misc rattles 11. Squeak on acceleration (from gas pedal) 12. Rear end noise - Neon 13. Squeal when ac is or goes on: see above, #61. 14. Doors make grinding noise when opening/closing 15. 1996 minivan (Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country) noises (comprehensive list) 16. 1996 minivan sloshing gas tank 17. Grand Cherokee clunking noise (highway speeds) 18. Clicking/snapping noise on stop (see #4) 19. Clunking 20. Knocking/metallic clanking 21. Drive belt squeal 22. Inexplicable chime ******* ******* ******* 1. Herbert DaSilva <hsd@swl.msd.ray.com> writes: (Problem: Noise happens on left hand turns and some bumps. Was originally chirping noise, but now more of a rumble. More frequent. Car: 1987 Shadow 2.2, five-speed, 110K miles.) Isolate the problem with the following test: 1. - Select an off-ramp or empty parking lot where you can attain some velocity while maintaining a left hand turn when the noise is evident. 2. - Clutch in or slip the tranny into neutral and pump the gas pedal to rev the engine. If the noise does not change tone when the engine is revved, the problem is in your driveline. If the noise changes tone with the speed of the engine, the passenger side engine mount has probably collapsed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2. Dakota creak my truck had a loud "creak" while driving. The problem: a cover plate between the converter and the truck body, directly under the front drivers seat, that flexes under use. The fix was easy-stuff something between the plate and the body. [Robert Duggan] ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3. 2.5 liter knock/idle Cold engine knock a few seconds after startup, lasting about 3-5 minutes -- most noticable at 2,000 - 2,500 rpm. Sounds like valve lifter or tappet noise. Noise loudest when weather colder. Usually disappears when the car is warm. OR Cold idle rough util coolant reaches 50-60 degrees F. -- TSB 09-06-93 provides for replacement of the computer. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 4. Snapping noise on start/stop Noise comes from the left side of the engine while starting from or coming to a stop. More prevalent when engine comaprtment hot. Diagnosis: With windows closed, trans in drive or first and parking brake on, put a load onto the gas. Release the load and shift into reverse. Listen for the noise as you apply a load in reverse. If you can't hear it, drive at low speeds with several quick, but not hard, acceleration/deceleration moves. Parts requried: left engine support. Time: .6 hours (from TSB 09-02-93). ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 5. Daytona rattle Christopher Sennett Homer: Under the rear hatch are two black plastic screw things with rubber bushings on the bottom, at the rear corners on the hatch. When the hatch is closed it rests on these bushings, now if one, or both, of them are too short then the hatch pivots on the latch and rattles, so take some pliers and unscrew the plasic bushings a little to extend them. that should clear up that hatch rattle. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 6. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping Jim Zimmerman had this in his Caravan. There was a TSB, but the dealer said "you have to complain LOUDLY. The guy called it the 'post shift bang' " ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 7. Whining or whistling noises (most 89-94 FWD vehicles) Jim Zimmerman said TSB 21-40-93, affecting most FWD vehicles from 1989 to 1994, covers this. This noise comes from the transmission of the FWD cars and minivans, with automatic "transaxles built with 3.02 or 3.22 final drive gear ratios. 1994 model year vehicles must have a transaxle code prior to 1826 for this bulletin to apply." This is a 7 hour job and replaces MANY parts. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 8. Rattle from back of car The screws that hold the trim onto the hatchback tend to come loose and fall off. They cost 22 cents, so get extras. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 9. Rattles from engine compartment On a 2.2, the plastic hood covering the air cleaner lost a bolt, and now has a huge rubber band holding it down to keep it from buzzing at some RPMs. The air injection tube into the catalytic converter has a filter which used to buzz against the firewall LOUDLY until I relocated it. These engines produce a lot of vibration, and there are a lot of hoses and gismos nearly touching each other. Someone will have to poke her head inside the engine compartment while an assistant revs up the engine through the RPMs that it makes noise, and try to isolate the noise producer. The safe way is to shut the engine off and see if you can rattle anything with your hand. Also, look for any broken hose or wire brackets. (Jim Van Damme) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 10. Misc rattles On my Sundance (Shadow), *all* the plastic covers that go over the seat belt mounts were squeaking or rattling. I sprayed them with white lithium grease where they were attached and where the were scraping or hitting other plastic parts. (Dave) Also on my Sundance, I had several instrument panel noises. The mechanic put foam on the back of the radio faceplate and other easily removable bits of plastic, which helped somewhat. The center console rubbed against the underside of the dash. (Dave) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 11. Squeak on acceleration (from gas pedal) Get this -- there is a spring under the gas pedal. One squirt with white lithium grease (well, a dozen squirts) took care of this annoying noise. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 12. Neon rear end noise jbaze@NMSU.Edu (Jody L. Baze) sez: Look under the rear of the car - shouldn't need to jack it up, it's accessible. The sway bar is attached to the frame and runs up to near the wheel where it is attached to the shock assembly with a tie rod. It was the tie rod attachments that were squeaking. I applied a few drops of teflon lube (it's what I had on hand) to both the top and bottom pivot points around the bushings and no more squeak. Pretty simple...it's a 1-minute job once you know where to lube! ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 14. Doors make grinding noise when opening/closing robert_meyer@ncsu.edu had the same sound when his Stratus was delivered. He put white lithium grease on the aluminum check straps and cycled the doors several times. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 15. 1996 minivan noises (comprehensive list) Bob Jaworski says rattles in the back may be cured by getting the rear shocks replaced - there is a recall or TSB on this. If your middle seat is rattling: the hook that holds the seat in may be loose. Crinkling sound from the steering wheel: Resolved by readjusting column housing ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 16. 1996 minivan sloshing gas tank Chrysler now has a new bracket with spacers. Many people will need a new gas tank to replace their warped tank. All under warranty. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 17. Grand Cherokee clunking noise awang@ecl.psu.edu (Alvin N. Wang) wrote that he had a random clunk/think noise while at highway speeds. He moved the load bars on his roofrack as far to the rear as possible and it cured it. The noise had sounded like it was coming from under the floorboards! A TSB may have been issued on this. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 18. Clicking or snapping in the front end ntmydoin@nyc.pipeline.com (Mark T. Hoops) wrote that a "clicking or snapping noise in the front end just as braking to a full stop" could be the left side engine support, especially in a 2.5 liter; but could also be the strut plates, C/V joints, or loose steering rack bolts. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 19. Clunking djallen@msmail3.hac.com had a clunk in his Caravan in the front driver's side; the dealer didn't find it, but he did. It was the bolt that tightens around the ball joint pin. He had done a cv joint boot job and had not tightened the bolt adequately. The ball joint pin would slip up and down with braking, bumps, whatever. He tightened it up and the problem went away. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 20. Knocking/metallic clanking From: garanita@gnn.com (gary cristadoro) writes: A constant knocking/metallic clanking which increased with engine rpms and got louder with engine speed on a Jeep turned out to be the vibration dampener (harmonic balancer) bolted to the driveshaft. It drives via belt all accessories. You can visually inspect the rubber insulator between the yoke and counterbalance pulley; if a severe shift has taken place (the two parts are misaligned and protrude), the fan belt is not aligned with other pulleys. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 21. Drive belt squeal Frank E. Tressler Jr. fixed his 1991 Dodge Shadow's (2.2) belt squeal by removing the washer between the alternator pulley and the alternator. The washer or shim was approximately 1/8" to 1/16" thick. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 22. Inexplicable chime B. Bennett pointed out that minivans (possibly other vehicles) may automatically sound a chime when the turn signal has been left on. This might come up on long highway ramps. It was part of the Family Value Package in 1991, maybe others. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Temperature stuff Index: 1. Temperature gauge swings 8. Heater isn't working right (front wheel drive cars) 14. Air blows through the wrong vents 18. WIndshield washer nozzle freeze-up 38. Temperature gauge problems 40. Head gasket seems to need replacement / coolant loss / car runs hot / no heat / other coolant shenanigans -- Tom Johnson may help you to prevent $$ problems! 62. Air conditioner (a/c) ineffective OR cycles too often 65. No heat - minivans, maybe others 1. Temperature gauge swings From: "Frank E. Tressler Jr." <wizman@defnet.com> Problem: Sundance thermometer swings back and forth. Repair attemps include replacing the thermostat and both engine temperature sensors. Test the fix by keeping the temp control on RECIRC and seeing if th gauge stays at a constant level. If so, check the hose going to from the thermostat housing to the heater core - it goes through a plastic bypass valve just before entering the heater core. The hoses on the valve turned out to have been switched at a prior servicing. Note that on many cars minor swings are normal during warm-up because the computer allows small amounts of warm antifreeze into the heater to provide some early heat while letting the engine warm up. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 8. Heater problems: () vandammej@lonex.rl.af.mil had poor heat in his Lancer. The temperature regulator door was not sealing well in HOT, letting cold air bypass the heater core. He stuffed a 4-5mm by 12 cm piece of foam in, closed the door on it, and unhooked the cable until Spring to keep it in place. If your radiator cap leaks or the hose to the CRS bottle leaks the vacuum will be lost and it won't suck the juice back in. Blow on the bottle to see. Dennis Lippert notes: The temperature gauge will swing back and forth until the entire system is warmed fully. This is because you keep introducing "cold" coolant from the radiator into the engine, rapidly cooling it. WHen the temp falls enough, the thermostat closes, and the temp goes back up, repeating the cycle. This is due to a valve which lets you get heat before the thermostat opens up. It keeps the warm coolant in the engine *and heater* when the thermostat was closed. Peter Galambos related: Fixed by flushing the system with oxalic(sp?) acid (i.e. Prestone Super Flush). Now the heater works great and the engine temperature changes much less. There was probably a restriction even though the antifreeze looked fine; a lot of rust flowed out when flushing. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 14. Air blows through the wrong vents Problem: under acceleration, air comes through the defroster vents instead of the vents it's supposed to come through. Reason: a valve that sits in a vacuum line went bad. That valve leads to a vacuum reserve tank, and the tank either wasn't forming a vacuum or the vacuum in the tank couldn't get out. (The reserve tank may also have gone bad, or there may be a leak in the system). (Lloyd R. Parker) Dan Stern noted there is a Chrysler TSB on this (24-06-92), which for all but AB-bodies recommends replacing the vacuum check valve with one that contains a reserve tank - part 4677204. (AB bodies use this check valve and a couple of extra parts). Dan said this fix worked on his 1962 Valiant! On many vehicles, this comes out of a vacuum hose which branches off the power brake booster; it may look like a film canister or a small funnel. On the Shadow/Sundance, it is underneath the dashboard and looks like a film canister. This part is right on top and easy to replace. There is a replacement check valve sold by Help! in auto parts stores but it does not contain the reserve tank. On my own 1991 Spirit, the rubber piece which the canister connects to was also loose, leaking vacuum. ALL vacuum leaks are bad! ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 18. WIndshield washer nozzle freeze-up There is a check valve to correct washer nozzle freeze ups (which dealers may not acknowledge). (Jim Hoare) In case of emergency, e.g. being stuck on the Interstate, you could add rubbing alcohol to the solution, but this is not a good permanent solution because it will not last. I found that using a higher quality wiper fluid does solve the problem. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 38. Temperature gauge problems Robert Rowe: With the ignition on, ground the wire coming of the sending unit momentarily while the enging is warm. If the gauge moves to the correct temp, the sender is at fault. Do not ground for a long period of time as this can damage the gauge. Peter Galambos: Temperature gauge would suddenly jump to 3/4 or almost full scale for a few seconds and then drop back to center. I hooked a voltmeter to the temperature sender input to the body computer and actually saw nice linear voltage swings. It appears that the gauge is designed to go super non-linear above a certain temperature. I disconnected the radiator fan long enough to verify that it was thermostat cycling causing the temperature swing and replaced the thermostat and antifreeze. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 40. Head gasket seems to need replacement / poor temp regulation The clamp on the hose to the overflow bottle wasn't tight enough; it had loosened during recent pressure-checking of the cooling system. -- Louise Penberthy Ross Gunn heard air (exhaust) bubbling back through the coolant overflow bottle and had to replace the head gasket was the solution. The dealer estimated $500; Ross did it himself for under $100. I managed to trace a slow coolant leak to the point near the firewall where rubber coolant hoses are clamped to the metal ends of the heater core tubes. Tightening the clamps a few turns ended the problem. I probably never would've discovered the culprit had I not noticed that a nearby cable had an odd green-ish tint. -- Roger Fradenburgh The 2.2/2.5 liter cooling systems *MUST* be purged of air before operation; otherwise, coolant flow blockage will result (i.e., hot, possibly REALLY hot, engine). Partial purging will cause the engine to run hotter than normal; the temperature will gradually drop to normal as the system purges itself over several days/weeks. These engines' cooling systems can be purged easily by parking the car on an incline (front much higher than rear) and cycling the engine on/off until the thermostat opens and the air is expelled into the radiator. The proper way is to use the bleed screw in the thermostat's housing...on some engines (like my 2.5) this screw is frozen in place because of lack of use; hence, the heat soaking of the thermostat's housing. -- Bohdan Bodnar (note: letting it "purge itself" may lead to negative consequences). Sometimes you can fry your brand new thermostat if you don't burp it properly. I would always just crank the heat, leave the radiator cap off, and start the car to purge the cooling system. -- Terry L. Howe We just went through this with my neighbors 3.0L Voyager. He complained of white smoke in the exhaust, we found oil in the water and vice versa. The dealer told him $1,000 to replace head gasket; we spent under $300. We also replaced the timing belt, water pump, plugs & wires, etc while we were there--the parts weren't expensive. We also replaced the speedo cable as the best way to get at it was when the heads were off. The new gaskets solved his problem, and he has more power. -- ssmyers102@aol.com *** If the cooling system is low on water, the highest parts of the engine tend to overheat, causing the head to warp and the head gasket to blow out through the gaps left by the warping. Plymouth Reliants have temperature gauges and show a high reading within a few minutes of starting the engine IF it is low on coolant. If the heater/defroster fan doesn't blow toasty warm when the engine is hot, you are probably low on coolant. or have to bleed the system more. It helps to park the car on a grade (front end high), turn the heater temperature control up all the way, and idle the engine with the radiator cap off. Then, fill the cooling system. [Use distilled water - about fiftey cents a gallon from the supermarket] (Tom Johnson) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 62. Air conditioner ineffective OR cycles too often Jim Zimmerman says: Short cycling [the a/c unit going on and off every five or ten seconds) would allow it to cool, but not very well. An independent shop immediately found that the first shop put on a defective expansion valve in their attempt to repair it. Also, the low pressure switch was bad. Mine would only act up intermittently. One day it would cool just fine, the next day it would short cycle again. -------------------------------------------- 65. No heat Daniel Thomas writes: [Dealers tried] everything from flushing out the cooling system, replacing thermostat, replacing heater core, replacing blower motor, etc. The REAL cause of the problem turned out to be the "automatic ajjustment" cable on the hot air door. This is the door which allows the incoming air to go across the heater core to provide heat into the interior of the van. The damn thing had misadjusted itself a number of times. The service manuals recommend a way to adjust the door to work correctly but it isn't always successful even when it appears to be done correctly. The door must be opened wider than the recommendation implies then the heat lever is forced to the cold position. This automaticially readjusts the cable connection to allow the door to open wider which forces more (all) cold air across the heater core. The secret is in the adjustment and almost going by the book. I have personally been successful in fixing a number of vans that didn't give out enough heat. The job is easy once you figure it out. -------------------------------------------- -- User Contributions: |
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