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Archive-name: alt-sex/fetish-fashion/part2
Alt-sex-fetish-fashion-archive-name: FAQ-Part2 Version: 3.0 Last-modified: 23-Feb-96 See reader questions & answers on this topic! - Help others by sharing your knowledge
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS AND OTHER INFORMATION.
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These are the questions I've seen asked often on both this and other
newsgroups, or those I've asked myself when I first got into this wonderful
world. I've compiled the answers from all over, and put it all together -
this is the result.
1. Questions and answers
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What is a fetish and what is fetishism?
Well, according to Websters Unabridged Encyclopedic Dictionary,
(1989 edition) the definitions are as follows:
Fet-ish:
1. An object regarded with awe as being the embodiment or
habitation of a potent spirit or ashaving magical
potency.
2. Any object, idea etc., eliciting unquestioning
reverence, respect, or devotion.
3. (Psychology). Any object, part of the body etc., that,
although not of a sexual nature, causes an erotic
response or fixation.
Also spelled 'fetich'.
Fet-ish-ism:
1. Belief in, or use of fetiches.
2. (Psychiatry). The compulsive use of some object or part
of the body as a stimulus in the course of attaining
sexual gratification.
3. Blind devotion.
Also spelled 'fetichism'.
For our use it is clearly the definitions 2 and 3 (for 'fetish')
and 2 plus perhaps 3 (for 'fetishism') that is relevant, the
object being some form of clothing, outfit or footwear.
Who are wearing fetish fashion?
All kinds of people! - There's secretaries, editors, presidents,
housewives, students, workmen, politicians, models and even
unemployed among those known to enjoy the fashions. Perhaps you're
next?
When do people wear their fetish fashions?
Often to fetish parties or while engaging in a scene at home. Some
wears something along with regular clothing on a daily basis, just
to 'stay in touch' with their fetish.
My site doesn't carry alt.sex.fetish.fashion - How can I participate in
the discussions?
Check out the "How to Receive Banned Newsgroups" FAQ, avaliable in
alt.censorship, alt.comp.acad-freedom.talk, alt.internet.services,
news.misc, alt.answers, and news.answers. It gives all sorts of
ways you can access newsgroups not otherwise avaliable at your
site.
Is this document available on WWW as a true html-document?
YES! - If you're reading this via WWW, you're reading it! - If
you're reading this via Usenet, it's available as this URL:
http://login.dknet.dk/~pg/WWW/FAQ/contents.html
What is the WWW?
The World-Wide Web, a hypertext-based multimedia information
system. Please consult the newsgroup comp.infosystems.www or the
FAQ for this newsgroup for any other or additional information.
Are there any sites on the WWW that carry fetish fashion oriented
pictures?
Check out my fetish fashion page at URL:
http://login.dknet.dk/~pg/WWW/fetish.html !
Is it true that high heels damage the foot?
No, not when we're talking quality footwear and healthy feet. All
footwear may cause damage to the feet if too small or too badly
designed. High heels are no exception, but studies even show that
it actually may be healthy (better) to wear heels in the range
2"-3" than to wear flats!
Lani Teshima-Miller <teshima@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu> writes:
The problem is not with feet--it's with your back and
your posture. High heels throw your whole spine out of
whack because of the way it makes you stand--makes it
curve differently. I think it used to lead to sore backs
for me.
Why do some women (and men) enjoy (or even prefer) to wear high heels?
Ask them! - No, seriously, it may be that they both find them
comfortable and enjoy what they're doing to the posture. There can
be no doubt that high heels enhance both the legs and the overall
posture and this makes the appearance much more sexy. And sex is
power...
Do some women really find high heels to be comfortable?
Yes! - Most prefer more ordinary heel heights like 3", but some
find higher heels even more preferable, and some even find 5"
heels to be comfortable! Some even wear 6" heels on a regular
basis, although those are more often to be found in connection
with a scene - worn in the bedroom.
Even 7" heels exist, but these are rarely seen.
Can excessive wearing of high heels in any way be damaging?
Yes, but in no way permanent. Non-stop wear can cause a shortening
of the tendons in the back of the legs, causing pain when wearing
heels lower than usual. Ignoring this pain can damage the tendon
permanently, but the condition can be cured by wearing slightly
lower and lower heels for an extended period. Some of the people
suffering from this problem chose to handle it by wearing high
heels all the time, and the story of one of these, Jessica, a 24
year old woman, can be found at the end of this section of the
FAQ.
It is a die-hard myth that all high heels damage the foot. This is
not true! - Badly designed (cheap) heels might cause corns or
worse, but well-designed, well-fitting high heels DOES NOT damage
anything when worn even on a daily basis, as long as the feet gets
to rest at least during the sleep period or similar (the feet
needs shoeless rest). Fanatic 24h wear is another story...
Is there anything important to know when starting to wear high heels?
Lani Teshima-Miller <teshima@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu> writes:
There is one very important thing to remember about high
heels and starting to wear them, is that many people
don't have trained ankles. You have to first learn how
to walk in them, learn how not to wobble (by training
your balance and ankles), and learn how to react when
you happen to bend your ankle. I used to do this A LOT
but never sprained it because I'd worn high heels all
the time. But if your ankle's not used to it, watch out!
How do I get my girlfriend to wear high heels (or boots or clogs) more
often, particularly in the bedroom?
Ms. Margo writes:
First good thing to try is to ask her, but not when
you're already in bed. Try some evening after dinner, "I
really think you have beautiful legs and feet. I would
love it if you would wear heels to bed some time." It's
always easier if the other person feels that they are
giving you a gift rather than being pressured into doing
something that might make them uncomfortable. Buy her a
really nice pair of heels. Well made, and unfortunately
expensive, shoes will fit better and be much more
comfortable than the $20 "all man made materials"
throwaways that most shoe stores carry. I have a pair of
extremely expensive thigh-high leather boots that fit
perfectly. I can be on my feet all night, either at home
or out at an event like ManRay, and my feet don't hurt.
Shoe pads are good. The little Dr. Scholls (sp?) pads
for the balls of the feet will make any high heels more
comfortable. More comfortable = worn more often!
Other good tricks are to rub the feet with hand lotion
and go to bed with cotton socks on. Three nights in a
row of this will make even my 6" heels comfortable for a
full evening. Exercise will help to stretch the tendons
in the ankles and calves. A good one is just to walk on
your toes for a bit each day. Another good one is one
skiers do - put your toes on the edge of a phonebook
with your heels hanging off, raise and lower your heels
stretching gently. If she is walking in high heels on a
pile rug, offer your arm for support. Many women feel
"unstable" in high heels and the extra support is
comforting.
To get her into bed with the shoes on, you might just
try carrying her to the bed while she is dressed, and
removing everything but the shoes. If all else fails,
you could always go for the bondage shoe straps which
lock the heels on, but I suspect this would freak her
out worse than the shoes.
Talk to her if she seems uncomfortable about your
requests. Find out exactly what makes her feel
uncomfortable and help her with those issues. Many women
have been raised to see this kind of behavior as
"kinky", "sick", or "slutty". Assure her that whatever
makes two people happy is just fine. Assure her that you
hold her in the highest respect and don't question her
virtue. Assure her that you want to be perfectly honest
with her, rather than hiding your desires from her.
And last, but not least, compliment her if she does wear
heels for you. Best of luck in your quest. A love for
high heels is a wonderful, abet expensive, joy.
My brand new patent leather high heels seem too tight in the toes and
too wide in the heel - What do I do?
Jeffrey Hurwit writes:
Patent leather stretches a little eventually, as does
any shoe material. Also, the material is of course new,
so consequently a bit stiff. Once you put a few "miles"
on them, they should soften up and have more give. If
these were plain leather (not patent), I'd recommend
neetsfoot oil to accelerate the softening process. But
the patent finish would be impervious to it, and the oil
(if applied from inside the vamp) could damage the
finish. I would suggest (unless it's too late) that you
spend several hours with them on carpeted floors to make
sure that they'll work out, so that you can return them
if they don't.
Noire writes:
I put double half-sole cushions in the bottom, right
under the ball of the foot where the most pressure (and
pain) builds. The pads take up enough space that the
shoes fit fairly comfortably and they also keep my feet
from sliding forward. I'd recommend using them for any
heels.
I've comfortably worn shoes that were this tight in the toes, but never
such high heels. Does that make a difference?
Jeffrey Hurwit writes:
In my experience it does-- the higher heels tend to
shift your weight more to the balls of your feet. Your
feet will also tend to slide forward, putting more
pressure on your toes.
Ms. Margo writes:
Yes it does, since most of your weight will be on the
balls of your feet and that's a lot of pressure on your
toes. If all else fails, go to a dance shop and buy some
lambswool (which they sell for toe shoes) to wrap around
your toes to prevent blisters.
Do you have any tips on learning how to walk in high heels?
Jeffrey Hurwit writes:
Ankle training and ankle strength are very important, or
you could twist an ankle and seriously hurt yourself. I
found that walking (and hiking), bicycle riding, and ice
skating all helped. Balance is of course important.
Think of a line, like the blade of an ice skate, under
the mid- dle of your foot from heel to toe, and try to
center your weight over it for each foot as you walk.
Experiment with your posture to balance your weight
between your heels and the balls of your feet, first
while standing still, then while walking. You'll
probably want something or someone handy to help steady
yourself while you're getting the knack. When you do go
out, always be conscious of where you walk. Finally,
restrictive clothing probably isn't a good idea while
you're trying to learn...
Ms. Margo writes:
Well, take an emory board or a small bit of sandpaper
and rough up the bottoms so they're not so slick. That
will help to keep the shoe from sliding out from under
you if you get your balance wrong.
Try not to do your first practice on shag carpet - the
heels will catch.
Try not to use your arms to balance you. Practice
walking with your hands held in the small of your back.
This will keep you from looking like a T-Rex in
stilletos.
Take much smaller steps than you normally would. This
will also help to keep your shoes underneath your center
of gravity.
Keep your ankles stong and firm by lifting up until
you're standing on your tiptoes several times a day
(best done without shoes). Or hang your heels off the
edge of a phonebook and lower your heels as far as you
can and then raise up on tiptoe. Don't pull the muscles,
just gently strech.
Take every opportunity to sit down and rest your feet.
Take your escort's arm (even if they don't offer it) and
use them to help balance when going down sidewlks, over
uneven surfaces, or going down stairs.
For three night's before the big occasion, go to bed
with your feet slathered in hand cream and wearing
cotton socks. This will soften up your feet and help
prevent blisters. (Keep a band-aid or two in your bag
just in case. They also come in handy for protecting
against rough seams inside the shoes.)
Throw a pair of flats or sneakers in your car, just so
that if your feet are killing you by the end of the
night, you don't have to climb three flights of stairs
to your apartment in 5" spikes.
How can a person stand in high heels and walk a long time? When I hear
stories about people dancing all night in 6 inches heels I'm always
skeptic.
leatherrose@intex.net (Rikki) writes:
I have found that some people can wear heels "much"
easier than others. I have been wearing heels since the
second grade and never had a problem with heels and now
wear exclusivly 5" or higher. If you are one of those
who are "stilletolly chanllenged" then I suggest
exercise the calf muscles, walk on the balls of your
feet even when barefoot, and try a clunky heel to get
used to the heigth of the heel.
PS: boots might support your ankle a bit!
Karen (karenc@ottawa.net) writes:
The key here is that you have to work at it. It takes
balance, and strength to wear heels consistently. I have
worked myself up to a minimum height of 3.5 inch heels
for everyday wear (boots for winter and shoes for the
office).
Exercise is a good idea to build up the calf muscles. My
personal suggestion to ensure a pleasuable experience is
correct sizing of the shoes. Do not be convinced that
you can't find the write size...women's shoes can be
found in many sizes and widths (which is usually the
hard part). If you are a wide width, do not be satisfied
with B width shoes...go for the D's, Es or whatever it
takes. It will make your goal more obtainable.
Ankle support at first will help. It may be wise to
gradually move from boots to shoes. Pumps provide more
stability than slings or sandals, so work towards pumps
first.
What is PVC?
PVC is an acronym for PolyVinylChloride, a form of plastic. It is
in many ways similar to rubber (latex) but is less stretchy and is
usually sown together instead of being glued or molded. It comes
in many colors, including transparant, but red and black are the
most common.
Isn't tight clothing uncomfortable?
Nope. Correctly designed it's both supportive and shapeenhancing
and doesn't need to be any more restrictive or uncomfortable than
whatever you'd consider 'normal' clothing. Naturally it can be
uncomfortable but then it's worn particularly for the
uncomfortability or to achieve some special effects like a small
waist or to show off the legs or the butt particularly well.
Is it true that wearing rubber can cause the skin to rot?
Yes and no. If you let the skin breathe now and then, and keep a
good hygiene, there should be no problems whatsoever.
Is corsets dangerous to wear?
No more than a scarf or a tie - if it's too tight it may cause
serious damage, but when worn correctly, it's just like any other
garment.
One thing that is very important to remember is, that only very
few people can wear off-the-rack corsets. Just about everyone else
is much better off getting a custom made (and fitted) corset. If
the corset doesn't fit perfectly it will cause problems and
perhaps more or less serious damage.
Do people still wear corsets today?
Sure! - A lot fewer than in the Victorian Age, but there's still
thousands all over the world that wouldn't be caught dead without
the corset laced on, and I'm not talking about fat, old ladies
that needs to keep the fat under control!
How and with what do I polish leather?
margo@netcom.com (Ms. Margo) writes:
Get an old pair of your jeans. Put them on. Sit down on
the floor. Polish the leather on your thigh until it
feels like the jeans are going to catch on fire.
Different types of leather polish differently. Some
types of leather will polish minimally, others will take
a good gloss.
How do I treat black leather so it becomes soft, supple and maintains
its fabulous gleam.
margo@netcom.com (Ms. Margo) writes:
Lexol is the stuff you want. Be careful using it on thin
or garment leathers because while the item is still damp
with Lexol it can be stretched very easily. I ruined a
nice pair of gloves once by putting them on when they
were still damp after being Lexoled. Allow them to dry
well before use.
If you have an item that's very dirty use saddle soap to
clean it before you use the Lexol conditioner. To make
things shine you really have to buff them. Old jeans or
old socks and lots of elbow grease works well.
What material was CatWomans outfit in the Batman II movie made of, who
designed it and can I get one too?
It was designed by Paul Barrett-Brown of The Rubber Mask and
Costume Company... although Andy Wilkes of Syren manufactured all
the suits used for filming. You can contact Syren (address in
supplier list) for details on how to get your own CatWomans
outfit. The material used was latex rubber, polished to a shine.
Did Michelle Pfeiffer really wear high heeled boots in the Batman II
movie, or was it a trick?
No, it wasn't a trick. She did wear boots with no less than 5"
stiletto heels for all her shots, but the stuntwoman doing the
stunts for her wore considerably lower heels. Michelle handled
herself very well indeed on those high heels, running, spinning
and performing martial arts movements flawlessly - to the
amazement of most of the crew. Way to go, Michelle!
Source: Michael Singer "Batman Returns: The Official Movie Book",
page 28.
ISBN 0-553-37030-8
How do I get my latex or PVC garment on?
Rich Greenberg <richgr@netcom.com> writes:
Baby powder helps here, or if you look at SCUBA diving
wet suit material, one version has smooth nylon on the
inside and latex on the outside.
How do I make my latex or PVC garment shiny?
margo@netcom.com (Ms. Margo) writes:
I firmly believe that one should use pure talc for latex
rather than baby powder, which contains oils. However, I
know that there are plenty of laissez-faire folks out
there who use baby powder and have never had a problem.
For the record, I use only pure talc on my latex. I'm a
bit paranoid since I had a lovely hood that disolved a
hole from being put away without being washed. I have
learned my lesson; you can't cheat when it comes to
caring for latex. I use Black Beauty polish when I want
a serious shine. (Tip: Apply it with one of those large
flat foam brushes that hardware stores sell for painting
moldings.)
I do find that just plain water will remove excess
powder and leave a nice shine. It's cheaper and has no
chemical smell.
What is the best care for latex garments?
Kris Davidson writes:
The following is from a piece of paper the guy at Body
Worship gave me when I made my pur- chase. It is
entirely a direct quote.
TAKING CARE OF YOUR LATEX
WEARING
Before wearing, remove all jewelry as it
may catch and tear your rubber. Ensure
that your body is completely dry. Smooth
a small amount of powder onto your skin
and lightly dust the inside of the
garment. Take your time getting into your
garment. You will quickly learn the best
and easiest technique for dressing. On
sleeved garments that must be pulled on
over the head, we advise that you put one
arm in first then the head and lastly the
remaining arm. Ease the rubber onto your
body, being careful not to grab with
fingernails.
CLEANING
Follow these simple steps and your latex
will look flawless every time you wear
it. Wash in hand warm water with a drop
of liquid hand soap. Clean inside and out
and rinse well in clean water. Hang up to
dry away from direct sunlight and when
complataly dry, dust with a little powder
and store in a cool, dry place.
POLISHING
To bring out the deep glossy shine of the
latex. First wipe off any powder from the
outside with a soft lint free cloth.
Using either "Black Beauty" or
"Armorall", spray a light film onto the
surface and buff to an even shine.
DO'S & DONT'S
- DO USE WATER BASED LUBRICANTS IF
NEEDED.
- DO STORE IN A COOL DARK PLACE.
- DO CLEAN YOUR LATEX AFTER USE.
- DO DRY AND POWDER YOUR LATEX FOR
STORAGE.
- DON'T USE OIL OR GREASE PRODUCTS
(BABY OIL, VASELINE, ETC.)
- DON'T EXPOSE TO STRONG SUNLIGHT OR
U.V. LIGHT.
- DON'T EXPOSE TO HEATERS OR NAKED
FLAME.
- DON'T WASH YOUR LATEX IN ANY TYPE OF
WASHING MACHINE.
- DON'T DRY YOUR LATEX IN ANY TYPE OF
DRYER.
- DON'T USE HARSH ABRASIVES, STRONG
CLEANERS OR SOLVENTS ON YOUR LATEX.
What is the difference between 'gluing' and 'cementing'?
jhurwit@netcom.com (Jeffrey Hurwit) writes:
Glue sticks things together by adhesion. It more or less
flows into the "rough" surface (of even something
smooth, like glass) of whatever it is you want to join,
creating a bond. Examples are using rubber contact
cement to glue wood, paper, etc. (but not rubber), white
glue on anything, superglue (believe it or not), and
most adhesive tapes. The main point about glues is that
the bond is only physical, based on its ability to grip
the surface it's being used to join.
Cement, however, bonds things together chemically. The
simplest kind of cement consists of some material that
is the same as what is to be joined, which has been
dissolved in a solvent. When such a cement is applied to
the surface that's to be joined, the solvent eats into
the surface, dissolving or at least softening a small
portion of it. (The action of the solvent is limited by
the fact that it's already been saturated with the
material dissolved in it.) When the surfaces to be
joined are brought into contact, the softened or
partially liquefied materials flow together, forming a
chemical weld (when all the solvent has evaporated) that
is indeed as strong or stronger than the material which
is being joined. Examples are rubber contact cement when
used on a rubber that has the same chemical base as the
cement (so that the solvent will attack it), such as
wetsuit cement (neoprene in a solvent), tire and
innertube patch cement; also PVC pipe cement, airplane
"glue" or model cement (effective on styrene plastics),
and the specialized plastic cements (the correct one has
to be used for the particular plastic involved)
available at plastics supply houses.
The main point about cements is that, if the right
(chemically compatible) cement is not being used, you
will have only a glue at best, and the bond probably
won't be very strong at all. In order to find the right
cement, the material to be joined must first be
positively identified. Like someone already mentioned,
you have to know if your rubber is in fact natural
rubber (and what kind of rubber it is), or if it's a
plastic synthetic. Whenever I need to cement something
(frequently some plastic thingy that I need to repair),
I usually just take it to a (plastics) shop, and let the
experts tell me what kind of cement I need for it.
Which glue is used to repair rubber?
Jeffrey Hurwit writes:
If you don't mind doing a little more research, and your
own simple chemistry, you could possibly make your own
(glue). Many rubber and plastic cements (eg. such as the
neoprene cement surfers and divers use to patch
wetsuits) are nothing more than some of the rubber or
plastic dissolved in an appropriate solvent. When
applied to the material to be bonded, the solvent eats
into and softens the surface, allowing it to integrate
with what's dissolved in the solvent. As the solvent
evaporates, the whole thing becomes bonded together.
So all you need to do is find out what is the solvent
for latex. If a shop that sells plastics and/or rubber
can't tell you, a chemistry prof at your local
university possibly could. A science librarian at a
college library could also possibly help you find out.
Tony@morgan.demon.co.uk (Tony Kidson) writes:
As an ex-chemist, I believe that Xylene is a good
solvent for this application.
Bill Lemieux <blemieux@nyx.cs.du.edu> writes:
Best-Test paper cement is a _latex_ based cement
available at art stores. Any other cement you can find
that contains latex as a binder, and heptane as the
solvent, will also work. You will also need to buy some
Bestine cement thinner. Thin the cement about 1:1- it
contains too little solvent as it comes in the can.
The basic operation is to clean both surfaces of your
seam (allow about 1/2" overlap for seams in most
material, perhaps 1/4" in only the thinnest latex), then
apply cement to both surfaces, and allow it to dry for
several minutes. Allow to dry in free air, without a
fan. Seam is ready to join when cement no longer appears
glossy, typically at_least five minutes. Do not attempt
to join immediately.
After joining the seam, use a narrow roller, such as a
nylon or wooden ink brayer, also available at art
stores, to roll the seam under high pressure. This is
necessary for a good strong joint.
Now the problems:
1. As soon as you put cement on the latex, the solvent
will swell the surface, causing a lot of curling.
This is impossible to prevent with any glue that
will make a decent joint. To make the latex
manageable, especially on curved seams, make a
clamping jig that is considerably longer than the
seams you'll want to glue. It can be made of wood,
or angle iron, so long as it will provide even and
complete compression, the length of the seam. Now,
clamp one end of the seam at one end, and stretch
the seam until it is straight, then close the jig
on it, holding it flat and stretched out. Too much
stretch will make the seam curl over. Now do the
same to the mating edge, and glue as above. I never
said it would be easy.
2. Heptane is incredibly bad for you, despite the fact
that it smell very nice, as solvents go. Use only
in a well ventilated area, and keep a fan (on slow)
at your back, to carry the fumes away from you.
Failing that, get and use a respirator mask that
will remove organic solvent vapors.
How to actually perform the act of repairing rubber/latex?
an68270@anon.penet.fi (Rubber Lover) writes:
The real trick invovles holding the seam together while
you glue the patch in and also in keeping the patch from
curling after you apply the cement. Here's how I've done
it repairs for over 25 years now...
You'll need to get rubber cement (Elmer's, etc.), rubber
cement thinner, acetone, drafting tape and pure talc.
Place the torn spot face up on a flat surface and work
the split area closed along its original lines. When the
tear is aligned place a strip of drafting tape over the
tear area to hold it togther.
*** NOTE ***
Use drafing tape instead of masking tape!!!
Drafting tape looks just like masking tape but
has a greatly reduced tack to it (it ain't as
sticky!).
Now place a strip of tape over your patch material (on
the shiny side) and you may now cut (with scissors) a
patch that will exactly cover the area to be repaired (I
always give about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch of coverage on
either side of the tear).
Next, lay the patch over the area to be glued and apply
a very small piece of tape to keep it aligned (Like a
hinge). Now lay the patch over to expose the gluing
surface. It helps to put some waxed paper under the
patch so that you don't slop glue onto areas not to be
patched. Pour some of the acetone onto a cloth and clean
the areas to be cemented. This includes the patch as
well. Do this in a ventilated area.
Thin a small quantity of the rubber cement by about half
with the cement thinner and apply it to both surfaces
(patch and patch area). Wait about two minutes or so
until the glue has dried (maybe longer) and then gently
roll the patch over the tear area.
Wait a few minutes before removing the tape but DO
remove the tape!
Sprinkle the patched area with talcum powder to kill the
tack of the remaining cement and voila'. Away you go.
Does sweat damage latex?
Yes and no. Sweat in itself contains body oil that like other oils
slowly disintegrates the material. But it needs time to perform
its corrosive deed and thus a simple rinsing with a mild dishwash
soap will clean it enough. Left to itself, the oil with either eat
through the material or cause it to harden and become fragile. But
the sweat from a days wear will not even begin to do any damage
before you remove the garment and rinse it, and thus may be
considered 'harmless'.
How do I measure the length of my feet to find the correct shoe size?
Tina H. <terjeh@ifi.uio.no> writes:
Sitting on a chair, wearing your usual hosiery or socks,
place your foot on a plain piece of cardboard. Have
someone hold a different piece of cardboard vertically
at the heel, then draw a line where the two cardboard
pieces meet. Then hold the cardboard at the end of the
longest toe. Draw a line here as well. Now remove your
foot and measure the distance in centimeters or
millimeters between the two lines. Now consult the shoe
size conversion table in the next part of the FAQ.
How do you measure the height of a heel?
CyberQueen@cdspub.com (JoAnn Roberts) writes:
There are at least two different ways that manufacturers
measure the height of a heel.
The most common method is to measure from the base of
the heel to the point where the heel first meets the
sole, i.e. the inside edge of the heel. The height is
measured in eighths of an inch.
The other method used is to measure from the base
straight up the centerline of the heel until it
intersects the sole. This gives a slightly higher
measurement than the first method.
In either case, the actual increase in your height is
greater because you get elevated by the amount at the
back of the heel.
Also, the larger the shoe size the easier it is to wear
a higher heel. It's got to do with the triangle formed
by the heel height and length of the shoe. A smaller
size has a much steeper angle for the same heel height.
These answers are not definite nor complete. If you've got a better
answer (in your opinion), do send it to me along with your reason for
it. This is a section where your input is needed, so if you feel you've
got the answer or corrections/expansions to the answers to any of these
questions - send them to me!
2. Corsets 101.
------------
The following was written by Ms. Margo in response to a
letter from dq861@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (R. Thomas Haden),
both of whom has very kindly given me permission to publicise
it. If you find any errors or omissions in this segment,
please do post a follow-up. It will be appreciated.
The corset is a very old garment. If we use the term to loosely
describe a garment meant to constrict the waist of the wearer, then
there are examples of corsets depicted on statuettes from Minoan Crete
dating to approximately 1600 B.C. The corset as we know it today, with
its stays, busk, and laces, came into general vogue in the mid 1700's
and reached it's height of popularity at the turn of the century and
began to decline in the 1920's with the invention of camiknickers, the
forerunner of the modern teddy, and brassieres.
At the height of its popularity the corset was available in many
specialized forms. There were tennis corsets, swimming corsets, hip
corsets, electrical corsets, abdominal strengthening corsets, men's
corsets, training corsets (complete with crossing shoulder straps and
attachable thigh-high boots, to prevent the young trainee from removing
her corset), and amazingly, maternity corsets. There were several
magazines exclusively devoted to corset culture. Most notably among
them was "The Wasp", published in London. It was felt that corsets not
only molded a Lady's body, but also her character. It compressed her
waist, raised her bosom, flattened her stomach, rounded her hips,
straightened her back, lifted her head, shortened her steps to an
appropriate 12" gait, kept her from being wild and tomboyish in her
behavior, and "instilled a properly submissive attitude."
Where or whom would you recommend for custom work?
B.R. Creations
Post Office Box 4201
Mountain View, California 94040
U.S.A.
B.R. Creations is run by Ruth Johnson. She is very dedicated to
corsetry and makes the best corsets on American soil. (Actually,
she produces some of the only ones, but who's quibbling.) Her
corsets are meant for daily wear are very durable. She also
produces a corsetry newsletter that comes out four times yearly.
Her color catalog is $7.00 for the U.S. and Canada, $10 for
overseas. The Corset Newsletter (6 issues/year) is $18.00 for the
U.S. and Canada, $24.00 for overseas.
Several months ago, my fiance' and I purchased a Vollers corset (Deep
Waist Nipper). At the time, it was 4 inches smaller than her waist. She
has, however, recently lost weight to the extent that when fully laced,
the corset fits her normally. Rather, there is no body modification at
all.
You are correct about the 4" of reduction from the normal waist
measurement for a first corset. But given that she has now lost
enough weight that the corset no longer causes any body
modification, I would recommend a new corset with a 2" decrease
from her current laced waist.
Where would I go for a custom-job, and would we have to appear in
person, etc?
While it's wonderful to be able to be hand fitted for a corset, a
perfectly fitting corset can be made from measurements. B.R.
supplies an order form that specifies the measurements necessary
for the properly fitting corset. If you have a tape measure, you
can get a well fitting corset.
What are the customs for having a made-to-measure corset done?
Choose the style that you like from the several that they offer in
the catalog. Choose a fabric that suits your tastes and projected
uses for the corset. On request B.R. will supply samples of the
satins, brocades, cottons, leathers, and metallic leathers that
they use for their corsets. Choose any trim options that you wish,
such as satin or velvet edging, lace or ribbon overlay, rhinestone
trim, satin lining, or extra garters. Depending on the style and
fabrics you select, a custom made corset costs $150.00-$350.00
U.S. Measure carefully, and order your corset. It will take about
6-8 weeks to be made by hand and will be sent to you by post. If
you have any questions, contact them by mail or phone. They are
very knowledgeable and willing to help you.
What should the reduction measurements on the corsets be? I know that
4" for a first try is pretty standard from talking to makers, but how
does one get into advanced work and how far can one go?
Yes, a 4" reduction from the natural waist is recommended for your
first corset. (Before you start serious corsetry training, it is
recommended to lose excess weight.) When one trains down to the
point that the corset no longer fits snugly, a new corset should
be ordered with a reduction of 2" from the current laced waist.
The first 6" will go fairly quickly, but as a rule, further
reductions go much more slowly.
As you go further into waist training, you find that adjustments
have to be made in the lifestyle, especially in eating habits.
Meals will have to be much smaller and more frequent. Since the
corset compresses the intestines rather severely, a large heavy
meal will cause discomfort at best and serious pain at worst. It
is recommended to have 5-6 light meals, rather that the 3 large
meals most people eat, and to let out the laces a few inches
before eating - retightening an hour or so later. Since the
success of the training depends on the amount of time that a
corset is worn, rather than how tightly it is laced, sleeping will
be altered to include sleeping in the corset. Eventually only a
few hours a day for washing will be spent without the corset.
Rapidly lacing to a very small waist will appear to have the
quickest results, but it is the easiest way to actually harm your
body. It is much better to lace the corset snugly, but not
uncomfortably so, and wear it for a longer period of time.
How far can you trim a waist over time?
There are three schools of thought on how small a waist can be
achieved with tightlacing. One school says to target a waist that
is 10" smaller than the starting waist. So a woman with a 28"
waist could aim for an ultimate goal of 18". The other school says
that the waist should a fraction of the bust. The starting
reduction should be 3/4 of the bust measurement, a moderate
reduction should be 5/8 of the bust measurement, and the minimum
reduction for a decent Lady should be no less than 1/2 of the bust
measurement. So our woman with the 28" starting waist who has a
36" bust (approximately a 34B bra size) would start by aiming for
a waist of 27", train down to a waist of 22 1/2", and go no
smaller than a waist of 18". This method has the advantage of
working for a visually balanced figure. The final school says to
target a waist that is at the same size, or slightly smaller than
the measurement of the upper thigh. This method has the advantage
of being sensitive to the person's body 0weight and percentage of
body fat. If weight is gained or lost then the waist can be
targeted relative to the thigh measure.
The world's smallest waist belonged to Mrs. Ethel Granger
(deceased). At her ultimate her waist measured just 13". This took
a lifetime of work to achieve and she lived to the ripe old age of
77. However, her figure was so modified, with her lower ribs
collapsed, that few would find it attractive.
I've heard about serious back problems that are associated with
corsets, are there ways that these can be prevented that allow the fun
of corsets to be enjoyed?
If you have a properly fitting hourglass corset, then the amount
of pressure that is put on the lower back is reduced. A wasp-waist
or S- Curve corset will put more pressure on the spine and bend it
at severe angles. An hourglass or pipe-stem corset is designed as
a small hemisphere above a larger hemisphere, connected by a short
stem. A wasp-waist corset is designed as a small cone over a large
cone. An S-Curve, Gibson Girl, straightfront, or "ice cream cone"
corset is designed like an ice cream cone with the ice cream stuck
on the wrong end, with a small cone over a larger hemisphere.
These types of corsets have had various periods of popularity. To
properly wear a wasp-waist corset one must begin training in
adolescence, to prevent the rib cage from growing normally.
However, some tightlacers do wear them. But a properly fitting
corset should not be painful to wear.
My ASCII art skills are minimal, but I will attempt the drawings:
Hourglass:
( )
( )
( )
( )
( )
( ) <-----Normal Waistline
( )
( )
( )
( ) <-----Normal Hipline
( )
( )
Wasp-waist:
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ / <-----Elevated Waistline
/ \
/ \<-----Normal Waistline
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \ <-----Normal Hipline
/ \
/ \
S-Curve:
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ / <-----Normal Waistline
( )
( )
( )
( ) <-----Normal Hipline
( )
( )
To keep the pressure on the lower back to a minimum have a well
fitting corset; this will help to support the body rather than
crimp it. Do not overlace it; pull the laces snug and tight, but
not uncomfortably so. If the compression is painful, unlace the
corset and start again. Do not lace it too rapidly; lace it snugly
and if necessary tighten the laces after the corset has been worn
for a few hours. Do not try to lace the corset tight in one pass;
tighten the laces in stages to allow your internal organs time to
adjust to the compression. Lace from both ends to the middle
pullers rather than from top to bottom; this will help to keep the
laces from sliding and also help to keep from overlacing the
bottom of the corset relative to the top. Do not try to force
positions that the corset will not allow. Especially harmful to
the back is bending forward from the waist. Instead, bend the
knees and reach down. Keeping your body in good shape will also
help to strengthen your back. You might want to start a regime of
"crunches" (not straight leg sit-ups) or other exercises that
strengthen the muscles of the abdomen and lower back. Eventually,
you'll feel more comfortable in your corset than out of it.
I can't find very much information on corsets. All help and any
knowledge you wish to give to me are appreciated!
I would recommend "Body Play" magazine to you. It is put out by
Fakir Musafar and almost every issue contains something about
corsetry or body modification. There is a nice series on corsets
that begins with issue #3. The Fakir is sometimes too much into
the Shamanism of body modification for my taste, but he is very
knowledgeable and writes well. There is also a nice article on
corsets in an S&M context in "Sandmutopia Guardian", issue #11.
Body Play
c/o Insight Books
Post Office Box 2575
Menlo Park, California 94026
U.S.A.
Subscriptions (4 issues/year) are $45.00 U.S. and Canada, $55.00
overseas. Back issues are $12.00 U.S. and Canada, $14.00 overseas.
Sandmutopia Guardian
Desmodus, Inc.
Post Office Box 410390
San Francisco, California 94141
U.S.A.
Subscriptions (6 issues/year) are $24.00 U.S. and Canada, $35.00
overseas. Order back issues from:
RoB, Inc.
24 Shotwell Street
San Francisco, California 94103
U.S.A.
3. Corsets - Embracing a labour of love.
-------------------------------------
The following was written by:
THOMAS B. LIERSE <staylace@aol.com>
PRESIDENT, LONG ISLAND STAYLACE ASSOCIATION
(AVOCATIONAL VICTORIAN AND EDWARDIAN CORSETRY)
Copyright (C) 1992 by Tes Staylace
Corset training is, by its nature and intended outcome, a "labour of
love". Without commitment, all efforts will fail.
One must remember the three components of successful figure training:
Diet, exercise, and the proper selection and use of the garment. The
diet component is interpretive: Other than the fact that special
attention should be paid to the waist area muscles, any regimen which
reduces body fat is satisfactory. It is important to remember that fat
exists on the inside of your body, as well as the outside, and hinders
the proper transit and relocation of internal organs during tightlacing
(It also simply takes up space, and the goal of corset training is to
reduce mass). Six meals, rather than the customary two per day, is
suggested. Obviously, these meals should be small, and consistent with
comtemporary healthy diet recommended.
Your first corset should be purchased in a size that is four inches
less than your measured girth; that is, CLOSED. The importance of
having your corsets professionally fitted, especially for training
purposes, cannot be overemphasized. Your comfort and health, to say
nothing of proper visual impact, DEPEND upon an exact fitting. In
addition, most chaffing can be avoided by wearing a properly sized
garment.
The key word in garment-size progression is "gradual". One wants to
treat oneself with love, and it takes TIME for a body to acclimate
itself to the strictures of tightlacing. These four inches should be
taken in slowly, day by day, or week by week if necessary. Once this
has happened, and one is comfortable, the next progression should be to
a garment a further four inches smaller--This may take two months or
six, depending on the trainee. The older corset should be used for
night confinement: One should almost ALWAYS be corsetted, except for
toilette ac- tivities. Never be without a corset for more than an hour.
If this is impossible, a wide training belt should be purchased--organ
and lower rib displacement is the goal and the body reacts well to
consistency. However, one must NEVER be uncomfortable, especially when
sitting (in a straight-backed chair, of course!).
You must pay special attention to your skin: The wearing of a corset
will of, course, deprive healthy skin of proper exposure to air
(oxygen). This will tend to dry it or, at times (depending on the
wearer) cause chaffing, especially if perspiration is present. Thus, it
is important to apply moisturizing oils or lotions to the skin at every
possible opportunity, followed by talc, especially if one has a
tendency to perspire excessively.
Care must also be paid in keeping the garment clean, as oil and
chemicals will tend to shorten its life. One of the more popular
devices used for such purpose is a sheath made of a material commonly
referred to as "bathing suit" cloth; these spandex-like tubes can
easily be fashioned and worn underneath the corset. Of course, you must
have a clean one for every new corsetted day! While many like the idea
of pretty lingerie underneath, be aware that corset pressure will tend
to stretch and/or rip delicate fabrics (the spandex tube, however, will
shrink to accommodate your ever-smaller stays!).
Efficient ways for donning your stays include the lacing bar, and
laying prone on the floor. Both these methods allow the waist to
contract to its smallest circumference, permitting easier application
of the garment. Also bear in mind that it is possible for you (with
practice) to put on your own corset, without assistance, after you are
down to your desired girth. However, it is recommended that you employ
a SENSITIVE partner to help you during training, as the rigor can be
demanding. Remember that only the person inside a corset truly knows,
from moment-to-moment, the effects of the lacing.
A well-made corset will be sold with an insert, generally made of the
same material as the garment itself, which will fit under the lacing,
to prevent binding of the skin as the laces are pulled closed.
So far as choice of materials for a corset, one will find that various
types fulfill various requirements. For instance, a leather corset will
mold easily to the body and breathe, while a latex or hard rubber
garment will induce perspiration, which, for some, provides an
excellent way to spur on weight loss. However, the average person will
find a cotton or coutil garment (perhaps with an overlay of brocade or
silk to add spice and sexiness) to be quite satisfactory. One should
just keep in mind that most garments, regardless of material, require a
"breaking-in" period of several wearings.
Most corsets come with cotton lacings. I recommend they be replaced
with the stronger (and less bulky) nylon version.
A well-constructed garment, especially one made for training, will have
double-stays (the sprung-metal rods sewn into the corset vertically at
regular intervals all round). In addition, a strong cloth "ribbon",
usually sewn into the interior, should circle the corset horizontally
from the lacingstay to the frontbusk (a busk being a much wider stay
which anchors the front hook-and-eye clo- sure). This feature
strengthens the corset and aids in the prevention of tearing.
Those who value posture training while preparing for a small waist
might also consider optional shoulder-straps. These will hold the
shoulders back and, thus, the head erect. Of course, a matching laced
"neck-corset" achieves the same end with more aesthetic quality.
The effect of a tightly-laced corset is further enhanced by the wearing
of high-heeled shoes, even while training. These tend to thrust the
body forward, providing a visually pleasing balance to the your picture
of loveliness.
A tiny waist is a wonder to behold - exotic artistry of the female
form; the end-result of such diligent training is highly satisfying.
But the pride of knowing that one is capable of the self-discipline to
accomplish such a feat is reward unto itself!
4. Jessica - Wearing high heels for an extended period of time.
------------------------------------------------------------
Through a friend on the net I heard about this now 24 year old woman
named Jessica who's been wearing 4"-5" heels for the past 10 years or
so, more or less non-stop. I got in touch with her and she didn't mind
sharing her footwear experiences with us. I've edited some of her
replies to my queries into a whole which follows below - mostly in her
own words:
I started wearing them when I was about 15. I started and
refused to wear anything else because I wanted to get used to
them. After about a year it was difficult to flatten my foot
so I just wore heels always instead. After about 3 years I
couldn't wear anything lower than 4" or it would really
really hurt. I've been in them since. I have tried to get
help but nothing worked. Most doctors say to slowly wear
lower heels. When I try anything lower than 4", my calves
really hurt almost immediately and my calves will hurt for
the next few days during which I have to wear 5" heels or so,
or it will hurt.
I guess I started wearing them when I was pretty young and
still growing, and I grew into them, and can't change now.
I used to really hate the heels because I was so limited, but
I have accepted it ok. Yes, I have shoes, I think they're
called mules, that I wear at night sometimes and in the
shower. I can walk on my toes if I have to, but my calves get
tired real fast.
Mules are heels, like pumps, but with nothing covering the
heel of my foot, so they sort of slip on like slippers.
I don't sleep in them often but I have many times. Sometimes
after I have been wearing them all day it hurts when I try to
take them off. I guess my foot gets used to being in such a
tight shoe all day that it can't handle being pulled out of
the shoe too fast. So I just wear them to bed and usually the
next day I can take them off, but sometimes it takes even
longer. It usually just happens with my new shoes. I have a
ton. I have about 50 pair of 4" and higher heels, and about 5
or 6 pair of boots with 4"-5" heels. Most of them are black,
because black goes with everything. I have about every color
though!
In the winter I wear my boots mostly. The beach? Well, I
don't do that too much but I would just wear an old pair of
pumps, but it's hard for me to walk on sand or anything like
that because my heels tend to sink into the sand and that
causes my foot to try to go flat, and it hurts when I let
that happen. I work in a professional setting, so heels are
almost required, so I'm ok thank goodness.
I started wearing them because I liked how they looked and I
really wanted to get used to them so that they wouldn't
bother me when I wore them. I thought that if I just wore
them all the time that I would get used to them and they
would feel normal to me, so I wore them and did everything in
them all day long.
I am 24, 5'7" in my heels (that was another reason I started
wearing them and wanted to get used to them. I was only
5'2"). My problem doesn't seem to bother anyone really. I get
foot massages all the time because I need them so much.
I don't discourage women from wearing them. In fact, I think
I almost encourage people since they see me wear them always
and have no trouble with them.
I have mixed responses from people. I usually don't really
care what people think though. I just wear what I want to
wear.
Yes.. I drive a lot, but if it's only a few blocks I'll walk.
I probably walk just as much as everyone else does. I can
handle it. The only problem with walking too much in heels is
that the heels wear out fast.
I only have a few pairs higher than 5". I have 4 or 5 pair
that are 5 1/4 I think. My foot is already somewhat
hyperextended when I wear those though. I only wear a size 7,
so 5" are quite high already. I find 4 1/2" to be the most
comfortable.
Used with full permission.
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